Books
Fatlash
The anti-diet revolution is poised to sweep the nation, but are we really ready for a brave, plump new world?
american dieting has it all nearly every pathological strand in our national character twists into this banal tangle of obsessions. We’re the fattest country in the world, and the most diet-prone. Our fixation on eating and body size betrays our desire for saintly self-discipline and rampant consumption, conformity and self-expression, purity and pollution, quick fixes and bootstrap striving, the craving to be rescued and the impulse to rebel. Read up on it and you’ll find that nearly everything anyone has written on the subject (no matter what eating plan they advocate) fits one of two classic types of American public discourse: the declaration of independence and the evangelical personal testimony.
At the moment, a revolution is brewing; in fact, by all appearances, it’s reaching a boil. On the barricades is journalist Laura Fraser, author of the new book, “Losing It: America’s Obsession with Weight Loss and the Industry that Feeds on It.” The buzz in the publishing world is that “Losing It” will be the next “Backlash” or “The Beauty Myth” the kind of book read by millions of women whose vague feelings of beleaguerment come into sharp, testy focus by the time they turn the last page.
After many years spent writing about weight loss and body image for various women’s and health magazines, Fraser, a former bulimic, has assembled a formidable pile of evidence demonstrating that virtually every aspect of the commercial weight loss industry is a complete fraud. Supported most convincingly by the findings of a National Institutes of Health panel convened to survey a range of scientific evidence, she argues as most experts do today that diets don’t work. That includes crash diets outlined in bestselling books, the programs advanced by commercial diet groups and centers, doctor-supervised weight loss plans, meal substitutes and fat-free processed foods, intestinal surgery and the whole range of pills, potions and elixirs that promise to burn our fat for us.
every human body, Fraser maintains, has its own baseline healthy weight and will resist any attempt to starve it smaller with a bag of metabolic tricks. At the end of a diet, as over 90 percent of dieters know from firsthand experience, the weight comes back, plus a few pounds more. The body, convinced there’s a famine on, tries to store even more energy and resets its baseline at an even higher level. Dieting doesn’t merely fail to create permanent weight loss it actually makes us fatter.
Fraser is joined in her ire by Glenn A. Gaesser, the author of “Big Fat Lies: The Truth About Your Weight and Your Health,” and an associate professor of exercise physiology at the University of Virginia. Gaesser, like Fraser, fumes that the popular press and many physicians persist in blaming excessive weight for a variety of health problems, including hypertension, heart disease and diabetes. He’s got even more studies than she has, all proving that overweight people can be perfectly fit, provided they exercise and adopt some healthy eating habits which won’t necessarily lead to weight loss. If anything, Gaesser is angrier than Fraser (who keeps a cool, reportorial head); he’s nearly apoplectic that the medical establishment continues to push the “panacea” of weight loss, against all evidence that it’s irrelevant or even dangerous to peoples’ health.
Gaesser and Fraser aren’t alone. Dieting has become so discredited that weight loss gurus like the buzzcut infomercial queen Susan Powter and books like Barry Sear’s “The Zone” tout themselves as offering “eating plans,” while still promoting draconian dietary restrictions and promising impossible bodily “perfection.” And people are still buying it, big time. To Debra Waterhouse, eating disorder expert and author of “Like Mother, Like Daughter: How Women Are Influenced by Their Mother’s Relationship with Food And How to Break the Pattern,” the “culture of dieting” is so destructive that only extreme measures will do. She urges mothers to “legalize” all foods and eating habits a radical abdication of control that her patients find outright “terrifying” initially trusting that eventually, if they really listen, their bodies will point them toward reasonable eating decisions.
These three books are manifestos of sorts, and therefore rather thrilling. Fraser’s spirited, methodical damning of an entire industry that’s founded on let’s face it making many people feel lousy, exhilarates, even if, like me, you haven’t dieted in years. Gaesser’s respect for his overweight patients and righteous indignation on their behalf is exactly what’s lacking in most health care professionals. And Waterhouse, by demanding that women jettison their myriad little dramas of eating control and abandon, and walk head-on into the territory that scares us most, is issuing a more radical challenge than most feminists have in years.
What if we just up and decided it was OK for otherwise healthy people to be a bit fat, to blithely disregard the prevailing gaunt ideal? I suspect that most of us would feel nervous at the prospect, an unease we’d disguise as derision. There’s something un-American about letting yourself go, giving up on the dream of slenderness.
Critics have speculated endlessly on why, in direct contradiction to all previous human history, thinness has become a requirement of contemporary beauty. (Fraser provides an excellent, concise summary of their conclusions.) My pet theory is that it’s rooted in our secret obsession with class. The mania for slenderness began around 1910, after hordes of immigrants from the European peasantry arrived here intending to “better” themselves. Generations of hard rural life had selected for bodies equipped to handle physical labor and annual cycles of want and plenty: stocky and fat-storing. These new Americans could build fortunes, buy fine houses and send their children to the best schools, but they couldn’t circumvent their genetic heritage. The naturally svelte frames of old money elites have become the most elusive status symbol, a way of sorting out the riff-raff, and there remains a high correlation between poverty and obesity. Fat is the last front in our covert class war.
Just as the fantasy of getting rich spawned a genre of pulp writing the Horatio Alger story so has the dream of getting thin. Susan Powter’s “Stop the Insanity” is a modern classic in the field, the tale of an angry, self-described “housewife who figured it out” after being deserted by her husband, ballooning to a size 22 and finally whittling herself down to a flawless hardbody (no thanks to “the boys at the American Medical Association”). The new anti-diet books have their equivalent. Emme a “plus-size” model who posed nude for People magazine and Dee Hakala an aerobics instructor and fitness advocate who weighs over 200 pounds are both publishing their autobiographies this month (“True Beauty” and “Thin is Just a Four Letter Word,” respectively). Both stand up before us to relate their journeys from misery to triumph. Each had her crisis, her moment of truth, her conversion, like a wayward sinner standing up at a tent revival testifying how he saw Jesus reflected in a pool of beer on a barroom floor. But, unlike Powter and her ilk whose revelations led to drastic weight reduction these two simply learned to accept being large.
That’s where we leave Fraser as well, content to be plump but healthy after years of grueling and pointless “Adventures in Dietland.” But are we really ready to settle for just that, ourselves? Diets proffer the American dream stripped down to biological brass tacks: with enough gumption and stick-to-itiveness you can transform yourself into an entirely different person. The growing ranks of anti-diet agitators present overwhelming evidence that we aren’t, after all, created equal. That’s downright un-American, so can we accept it?
We can, writes Richard Klein, author of the peculiar but pleasing “postmodern diet book” called “Eat Fat,” if we can convince ourselves to love fat. A chubby professor who’s also written a book in praise of cigarettes, Klein has drafted his own manifesto, the first salvo in the battle to convince us not just to resign ourselves to fat, but to revel in it. “It’s easy to be fat today, but hard to love it,” he observes, even though throughout history people have mostly favored adiposity. The truth is, for the many Americans clinically or merely cosmetically overweight, fat is “the most sustained focus of our concerned attention, the single most important material object of meditation in our lives.” So why not enjoy it?
Surprisingly, Klein’s frisky little meditation on fat and its discontents made me believe that might just be possible. Veronique Vienne, the French-born editorial director of Mode, a new major fashion magazine directed at the 60 percent of American women size 12 and up, thinks it is. “In the past six months, we’ve reached the point of no return,” she told me. “You can feel it and see it. The majority of women are over size 10. It’s an undertapped market. Women are stronger. We elected Clinton and now we’re saying enough is enough. We have a voice.” The magazine hopes to “retrain the eye of readers” to appreciate larger bodies and sell “a fantasy with curves.” Vienne says that while interviewing prospective models it takes her 15 or 20 minutes to go from thinking “she’s really big” to the “revelation” that these women are often “more self-aware, gracious and elegant” than the “stiff” standard models. Mode will run no diet articles.
Perhaps Vienne is right and the times are finally changing. It would certainly make life more interesting. Looking up from reading “Eat Fat” on the bus, I spotted one of those Streetfare Journal placards placed for passenger edification on public transportation. It sported a Mae West quote, “When choosing between two evils, I always like the one I’ve never tried,” accompanied by a drawing of two ice cream sundaes. We all know that hefty Mae was thinking of something spicier than butterfat when she made that quip. Do our “sins” have to be so small and dull?
Maybe they do. Klein makes a passing, but very apt, comparison between the public spectacle of fat and the scarlet letter worn by Hester Prynne, Hawthorne’s famous literary adulteress. We might be willing to give up the perverse narcissism of dieting, a miserable practice that allows us both to hate and mortify our bodies and to focus on them obsessively. Are we also willing to surrender the right to enjoy condemning our fellow citizens for the feckless self-indulgence we believe their fat betrays? In a society where 54 percent of respondents told a survey gatherer that they’d rather be hit by a truck than become obese, fat people seem to be flaunting the fact that they just don’t care what we think, and that really bugs us. How dare they not subject themselves to the daily grind of self-denial and guilt the rest of us endure? How dare they buck our disapproval for the sake of pleasure?
This superpower is still a Puritan village at heart, and that, finally, is the mentality that the anti-diet movement must combat. We might be convinced to cast off our habitual sufferings if writers like Fraser persuade us they’re futile, but can we forswear the daily opportunity to feel superior to everyone fatter than we are? It would be big of us.
Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com. More Laura Miller.
Memorial Day fiction: Are we there yet?
Salon exclusive: At the start of the summer fiction season, new stories from Chris Pavone and Natalie Bakopoulos
(Credit: iStockphoto/caracterdesign) “Are we there yet?”
It’s a dreaded sentence. When it’s spoken by an anxious child from the back seat, it’s enough to make stressed-out parents wish they’d never taken a family vacation in the first place. And even if it’s delivered as a sing-songy punch line, from an impatient partner or spouse on a long road trip, it’s an irritating eye-roller of a joke.
So this Memorial Day weekend — the unofficial start of the summer vacation season, and therefore the summer fiction season — we asked two novelists to reclaim the sentence in a new and adult context. For our latest fiction project, there was only one simple rule: Each story had to include the line “Are we there yet?” in a fresh and surprising way.
Continue Reading CloseDavid Daley is the senior culture editor of Salon. More David Daley.
“Tubes”: What the Internet is made of
If you think your data lives in the cloud and flies through the air, you're wrong
Andrew Blum The title of Andrew Blum’s “Tubes: A Journey to the Center of the Internet” is a ricocheting joke. When Alaskan Sen. Ted Stevens described the Internet as a “series of tubes” back in 2006, he was roundly mocked for not understanding the online world despite being chairman of the Commerce, Science and Transportation Committee and therefore instrumental in overseeing it. Stevens may not have known what he was talking about, Blum (a correspondent for Wired magazine) acknowledges, but he wasn’t wrong, either. In writing this account of “the Internet’s physical infrastructure,” Blum found that “one thing [the Internet] most certainly is, nearly everywhere, is, in fact, a series of tubes.”
Continue Reading Close
Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com. More Laura Miller.
Exclusive: The Paris Review, the Cold War and the CIA
Letters discovered by Salon show even deeper Cold War ties between the Paris Review and a U.S. propaganda front
(Credit: Salon) In 1958, the Paris Review’s George Plimpton wrote his Paris editor with a grand proposal. The Russian author Boris Pasternak had just been awarded the Nobel Prize. But under pressure from the Soviets — humiliated that “Dr. Zhivago” had to be smuggled out of the country — he refused it. “The Pasternak affair has caused such a stir here,” writes Plimpton from the journal’s New York office, “and is in itself an event of such importance in lit’r’y history that we feel the Review somehow should chronicle what has happened…” Writing to Nelson Aldrich, the Paris editor, Plimpton suggests short statements by a “variety of authors asked to comment. What does Sartre have to say on this matter … Aragon, Neruda, Waugh? Here [in New York] we have Niccolo Tucci … digging up statements, mostly from writers who (as he is himself) are refugees from tyranny…” Plimpton goes on to suggest that the Congress for Cultural Freedom, largely and covertly funded by the CIA, might fund brochures to help publicize the issue.
Continue Reading CloseA co-founder of Guernica, Joel Whitney is a Brooklyn writer whose work appears in The New York Times, The New Republic, World Policy Journal and The Paris Review More Joel Whitney.
“People Who Eat Darkness”: The disappearing blonde
A true crime story set in Tokyo illuminates the complicated truths behind media cliches
Joji Obara and Lucie Blackman (Credit: Estate of Lucie Jane Blackman) Lucie Blackman, 21, went out for the afternoon in 2000, phoning her roommate and best friend Louise to arrange a meeting later that night. Lucie never showed up, and within a few days she’d become one of those vanished blondes whose fates fuel headlines and hours of speculative media coverage. She was British, a former flight attendant, and she and Louise were living in Tokyo. They were also bar hostesses, a profession with a very specific meaning in Japan, difficult to explain to foreigners and not entirely clear to the Japanese themselves. Lucie both did and didn’t match the classic Missing Blonde profile, and for a while the mystery of what happened to her threatened to lapse into permanent obscurity.
Continue Reading Close
Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com. More Laura Miller.
Corporate criminals gone wild
The maker of the documentary film "Inside Job" has a new book excoriating Wall Street -- and President Obama
A detail from the cover of "Predator Nation" “Inside Job,” Charles Ferguson’s Oscar-winning documentary film on how government, Wall Street and academia colluded to deliver us the worst financial crisis since the Great Depression, made a powerful case that something was very very rotten at the heart of the American political/economic nexus. His follow-up book, “Predator Nation: Corporate Criminals, Political Corruption, and the Hijacking of America,” can be considered the legal brief that dots every “i” and crosses every “t” in his argument. A tightly argued, profusely footnoted and deeply enraged castigation of everyone involved, “Predator Nation” isn’t just a factually unchallengeable account of how Wall Street blew up the global economy. It’s a denunciation, a call for justice and a warning: After getting away with the crime of the century, Wall Street still isn’t satisfied.
Continue Reading Close
Andrew Leonard is a staff writer at Salon. On Twitter, @koxinga21. More Andrew Leonard.
Page 1 of 985 in Books