New Orleans
Tip of the Week: A virgin in New Orleans
New Orleans advice from road warrior Janet Reitman
This week’s Tip of the Week comes from road warrior and writer Janet Reitman, who shares some hard-won wisdom from her first venture to New Orleans. Do you have a Tip of the Week for us? Send it to wanderlust@salonmagazine.com.
I travel all the time as a journalist, and have to do a lot of things
relatively cheaply. My latest trip was to Louisiana, which is, in its
own way, a foreign country.
Having never been to New Orleans before, I did what every other
virgin does: I went to the French Quarter. Which was,
well, gross. I’d never seen so
many white-kneed Midwestern retirees wandering around clueless in my
life. That and puking frat boys. Do not think you can go to the
Quarter even in the early morning and wander around free of the
gawking masses. Even at 7 a.m., the camera hordes are out.
And this was September, not March.
Since I was alone and not really into drinking sweet, alcoholic Mr.
Frosties on the sidewalk, I went back to my hotel kind of bummed
that I knew no one in town. And was saved — SAVED — by the most
wonderful hotel, the Pontchartrain, which is on St. Charles Avenue in
the Garden District. It’s beautiful in a funky New Orleans kind of
way: Each room is completely different and some are named after famous
guests — the Cole Porter suite, that kind of thing. The staff is
helpful, efficient and young — everyone seems to be a college
student. They do these little things like deliver message notes under
your door in lieu of having an annoying message light on your
telephone. It also has a great bar for meeting clients (with jazz Thursday through Saturday nights) and an excellent cafe with decent food,
particularly breakfast. The restaurant, which is a four-star French
restaurant, was closed when I was there but was supposed to
reopen in October. Colleagues who have eaten there say it is amazing.
Back to the French Quarter: The one real gem I found was a little
vegetarian place on Exchange Place (a little side street off of Royal)
called “Old Dog, New Trick.” It’s menu included huge salads, soba noodles
with tofu, tempeh platters, homemade bread and funky waiters who like
to hang out and talk , but not intrusively so. Best of all, the diners all seemed to be natives, and generally young, professional, non-yuppie types.
Otherwise, if you rent a car in Louisiana, make sure you check about insurance with whoever’s paying your bill. I usually just go ahead
and buy the extra coverage, which usually costs something like $7 or
$8 per day in other states. Louisiana rates go for about $16.99 per
day — the highest in the country. I rented a car from Budget for one
month. My insurance cost as much as the actual rental did.
Janet Reitman is a freelance journalist who has covered wars in Haiti, the Sudan and Sierra Leone for the Washington Post, Life magazine and Talk magazine, among other publications. More Janet Reitman.
Hit on the head
For five years, I was haunted by a violent crime and a broken relationship. Then came a twist I never expected
The author in a red dress in a Second Line processional
through the French Quarter. (Credit: Laurence Kretchmer) When I saw the date of Charlotte’s wedding, I felt like I’d been hit on the head. What were the chances? Of all the days to get married – of all the cities to get married in – my friend had chosen the exact date that I met Nick, in the city that I met Nick.
I suspect most couples don’t know the exact date of their first encounter. But then most couples probably don’t have a police report.
It took me a few days to decide to contact Nick. I’d been wrestling with that urge for five years now. My inbox was a shame trail of gushy letters typed after midnight, impulsive notes dashed off in the afternoon. All of them had cutesy subject lines, like the titles of Raymond Carver stories, but they should have been labeled the same thing: “Do you love me again? Have you changed your mind yet?”
Continue Reading CloseSarah Hepola is an editor at Salon. More Sarah Hepola.
The homeless: Pawns in the war on OWS?
A death at Occupy NOLA leaves protesters questioning the motives behind the city's closure of a nearby tent city
A homeless man sets up a tent at Occupy Seattle on Oct. 5, 2011 (Credit: AP/Ted S. Warren) Beneath the veneer of New Orleans’ vibrant culture lies a history of tragedy. From the yellow fever outbreaks of the 19th century, the many catastrophic storms that have visited the city, the violence of the Civil War and Reconstruction, to the vast social dysfunction of contemporary New Orleans, this is a city that has known adversity throughout. It is sadly fitting, then, that Occupy NOLA is one of the few occupations to have witnessed a death at the encampment. Last week, 53-year-old Ronald Dean Howell, known as “Curly” or “Old School” to friends, was found dead in his tent. The coroner’s chief investigator, John Gagliano, stated that the cause of death was “complications from alcohol abuse.” According to other occupiers, the man was homeless, and likely relocated from another tent city at Calliope Street and the Pontchartrain Expressway, which was closed by authorities on Oct. 27.
Continue Reading CloseMatt Reichel is a writer currently living in New Orleans. Respond to him at: mereichel@gmail.com. More Matthew Reichel.
What’s the dirtiest city in America?
It's not New York, Philadelphia or L.A. ...
42nd street, New York City In its June 2011 issue, Travel + Leisure magazine has ranked America’s ten dirtiest cities. Where does your hometown — or favorite tourist destination — fall?
Here’s the list:
- New Orleans
- Philadelphia
- Los Angeles
- Memphis
- New York
- Baltimore
- Las Vegas
- Miami
- Atlanta
- Houston
The ranking is not exactly scientific — it’s based on input from the magazine’s readers, who fill out an annual “favorite cities” survey — but the results hold up fairly well next to the conclusions of other studies. T+L explains:
Continue Reading CloseEmma Mustich is a Salon contributor. Follow her on Twitter: @emustich. More Emma Mustich.
Evacuations in Cajun country after spillway opens
Louisiana reeling from historic flooding
Water diverted from the Mississippi River spills through a bay in the Morganza Spillway in Morganza, La., Saturday, May 14, 2011. Water from the inflated Mississippi River gushed through a floodgate Saturday for the first time in nearly four decades and headed toward thousands of homes and farmland in the Cajun countryside, threatening to slowly submerge the land under water up to 25 feet deep. (AP Photo/Patrick Semansky) (Credit: AP) Renee Ledoux cried when the National Guard and sheriff’s deputies showed up at her front door and warned her she needed to get out to avoid water gushing from the Mississippi River after a floodgate was opened for the first time in four decades.
But by the 5 p.m. deadline Sunday, the 44-year-old Ledoux and her boyfriend Billy Hanchett decided to ride it out one more night on air mattresses inside the empty home in Krotz Springs. They have a camper they plan to stay in on a friend’s property outside the flood zone.
Continue Reading CloseAs water creeps closer, residents warned: Get out
Louisianans flee from floodwater released by the opening of the Morganza Spillway yesterday
A member of the Louisiana National Guard stands guard as water diverted from the Mississippi River through a bay in the Morganza Spillway begins to fill a pasture in Morganza, La., Saturday, May 14, 2011. Opening the Morganza spillway diverts water away from Baton Rouge and New Orleans, and the numerous oil refineries and chemical plants along the lower reaches of the Mississippi. (AP Photo/Patrick Semansky) (Credit: AP) Deputies warned people Sunday to get out as Mississippi River water gushing from a floodgate for the first time in four decades crept ever closer to communities in Louisiana Cajun country, slowly filling a river basin like a giant bathtub.
Most residents heeded the warnings and headed for higher ground, even in places where there hasn’t been so much as a trickle, hopeful that the flooding engineered to protect New Orleans and Baton Rouge would be merciful to their way of life.
Days ago, many of the towns known for their Cajun culture and drawling dialect fluttered with activity as people filled sandbags and cleared out belongings. By Sunday, some areas were virtually empty as the water from the Mississippi River, swollen by snowmelt and heavy rains, slowly rolled across the Atchafalaya River basin. The floodwaters could reach depths of 20 feet in the coming weeks.
Continue Reading ClosePage 1 of 27 in New Orleans
