Books
The Sneaker Book
Dante Ramos reviews 'The Sneaker Book: An Anatomy Of An Industry And An Icon' by Tom Vanderbilt.
The world’s largest sneaker company touts its giant Nike Town stores as the
future of retailing, but as writer Tom Vanderbilt wanders wide-eyed through
the Chicago outlet he sees the place as a weird corporate pastiche. “What
is ultimately fascinating about Nike Town is the way in which corporate
consumer capitalism has absorbed and seemingly replaced so many other
spheres of culture,” Vanderbilt, a regular contributor to the Baffler,
writes in “The Sneaker Book.” “We can see in Nike Town the minute
architectural touches of a Gaudí and the ambitious, all-encompassing design
aesthetic of the Bauhaus.” With its in-house re-creation of a “classic
high-school gymnasium,” the Nike Town in New York is just as strange: “Nike
is in essence reinserting itself into a history in which it didn’t exist.”
This first installment in a series by the New Press on individual consumer
goods is subtitled “An Anatomy of an Industry and an Icon,” and as that
phrase suggests, Vanderbilt is trying to explain anything and everything
about the history, marketing and manufacture of sneakers. And in fact, the
evolution of the lowly canvas-and-rubber sneaker into today’s array of
pricey, highly specialized athletic shoes is a lively enough story. In the
early 1900s, the mass producers of sneakers were resolutely industrial
firms. Over the years, Adidas and other manufacturers started introducing
new styles at an ever-increasing rate and paying athletes to act as
pitchmen for their products.
Not surprisingly, Vanderbilt views Nike, with its anti-authoritarian image
and big spending habits, as the company most responsible for the present
culture of cutting-edge marketing, zillion-dollar endorsement deals and
heavy spending on design. But he identifies a host of other factors that
accelerated the growth of sneakers into an $11 billion industry: the
running and tennis booms of the 1970s, the rise of free agency in
professional sports, the relaxation of dress codes in schools and
workplaces, the singular talents of Michael Jordan. Vanderbilt dutifully
catalogs sneaker imagery as it bubbled up into comic strips, movies,
music and literature, from a Run-D.M.C. interview to Stephen King’s “The
Body.” He clearly wants his book to end up in the cultural studies section
of American bookstores, not with the business books.
Yet the intellectualization of kitsch, as academic Gerald Early has called
it, is a risky endeavor. The premise, of course, is that there are plenty
of goods and pastimes that people don’t think twice about and that by
unpacking these phenomena you can learn something about the world. When it
succeeds, it’s dazzling. At worst, though, you end up trolling for new
insights about a topic worn out by other writers.
“The Sneaker Book” falls somewhere in between. In his clever ruminations on
Nike Town in particular and the atmospherics of sneaker marketing in
general, Vanderbilt seems guiltily fascinated with the corporatization of
everyday life. But he seems far less interested in the concrete product
itself, and much of his book’s main text reads no better than a very good
term paper. A chapter on the manufacturing-and-distribution process dwells
upon poor working conditions in East Asia. Such practices are indefensible,
but they have been chronicled extensively elsewhere, and Vanderbilt brings
no new analysis to the issue. His conclusions can be vague (e.g., “Sneakers
are the emblematic product of the late 20th century”), and his book is
padded lavishly with long chunks from articles by other authors. The
overall effect is a little disorienting, a lively book in which some of the
most interesting passages were written by other people. Then again, why
not? Maybe a product as postmodern as the athletic shoe can only be
described in a nonlinear way.
Dante Ramos is deputy editorial page editor of The Times-Picayune in New Orleans. More Dante Ramos.
“People Who Eat Darkness”: The disappearing blonde
A true crime story set in Tokyo illuminates the complicated truths behind media cliches
Joji Obara and Lucie Blackman (Credit: Estate of Lucie Jane Blackman) Lucie Blackman, 21, went out for the afternoon in 2000, phoning her roommate and best friend Louise to arrange a meeting later that night. Lucie never showed up, and within a few days she’d become one of those vanished blondes whose fates fuel headlines and hours of speculative media coverage. She was British, a former flight attendant, and she and Louise were living in Tokyo. They were also bar hostesses, a profession with a very specific meaning in Japan, difficult to explain to foreigners and not entirely clear to the Japanese themselves. Lucie both did and didn’t match the classic Missing Blonde profile, and for a while the mystery of what happened to her threatened to lapse into permanent obscurity.
Continue Reading Close
Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com. More Laura Miller.
Corporate criminals gone wild
The maker of the documentary film "Inside Job" has a new book excoriating Wall Street -- and President Obama
A detail from the cover of "Predator Nation" “Inside Job,” Charles Ferguson’s Oscar-winning documentary film on how government, Wall Street and academia colluded to deliver us the worst financial crisis since the Great Depression, made a powerful case that something was very very rotten at the heart of the American political/economic nexus. His follow-up book, “Predator Nation: Corporate Criminals, Political Corruption, and the Hijacking of America,” can be considered the legal brief that dots every “i” and crosses every “t” in his argument. A tightly argued, profusely footnoted and deeply enraged castigation of everyone involved, “Predator Nation” isn’t just a factually unchallengeable account of how Wall Street blew up the global economy. It’s a denunciation, a call for justice and a warning: After getting away with the crime of the century, Wall Street still isn’t satisfied.
Continue Reading Close
Andrew Leonard is a staff writer at Salon. On Twitter, @koxinga21. More Andrew Leonard.
Can you identify?
Science shows that the only way around some readers' prejudices is to trick them
(Credit: Shutterstock/Salon) The news of recent research documenting how readers identify with the main characters in stories has mostly been taken as confirmation of the value of literary role models. Lisa Libby, an assistant professor at Ohio State University and co-author of a study published in the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, explained that subjects who read a short story in which the protagonist overcomes obstacles in order to vote were more likely to vote themselves several days later.
The suggestibility of readers isn’t news. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s novel of a sensitive young man destroyed by unrequited love, “The Sorrows of Young Werther,” inspired a rash of suicides by would-be Werthers in the late 1700s. Jack Kerouac has launched a thousand road trips. Still, this is part of science’s job: Running empirical tests on common knowledge — if for no other reason than because common knowledge (and common sense) is often wrong.
Continue Reading Close
Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com. More Laura Miller.
“The Aleppo Codex”: The bizarre history of a precious book
A reporter traces the shadowy fate of the definitive version of the Hebrew Bible
Matti Friedman An ancient and priceless book, a murky history of evasions and coverups, an underground of sinister and possibly violent dealers, a former spy who drops tantalizing hints and a wily 84-year-old millionaire who says stuff like, “The problem with this story is that it could damage your health”: Are these the ingredients for a cheesy, improbable historical thriller? Yet “The Aleppo Codex,” Matti Friedman’s account of his attempts to learn the history of one of the world’s most precious books, sports all of these assets, and it’s nonfiction. If reporting this story damaged Friedman’s health, it probably happened when he realized what he’d stumbled into and his reporter’s heart started beating in doubletime.
Continue Reading Close
Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com. More Laura Miller.
Augusten Burroughs: Conquer trauma by letting it go
Salon exclusive: The best-selling memoirist says past horrors haunt us because we think about them too much. Stop
Augusten Burroughs Many people continue to feel influenced and even controlled by the things that happened to them a long time ago. Sometimes, people harbor dark, traumatic memories from childhood. Or fragments of memories — incomplete scenes, uncomfortable feelings, perhaps even a sense of certainty that something specific and terrible happened to them, but little more than this.
Others experienced something traumatic in adulthood that continues to affect them day to day many years later. Maybe an assault has left a person afraid to leave their home or enter a particular neighborhood.
Continue Reading CloseAugusten Burroughs' many books include "Runnning With Scissors," "Dry," "Sellevision," "Magical Thinking" and "Possible Side Effects." His latest book is "This Is How." More Augusten Burroughs.
Page 1 of 984 in Books