Elizabeth Taylor
Fashion victim
The rise and demise of Halston, America's superstar designer.
Before she discovered the look that would enduringly and amusingly define her throughout the rest of her life — that is, before she became the fabulously besequined “Liza!” — Liza Minelli was a marmot-eyed, slightly hirsute, terminally insecure star-pup without a thing to wear. Then she met Halston.
Say what you will about beaded tunics, billowing caftans, halter pantsuits and Ultrasuede shirtdresses. His clothes, whose pervasive influence can still be seen in the designs of Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez, were different from anything that had been done before. And if, as Halston often repeated, “you are only as good as the people you dress,” then he was very, very good. Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Babe Paley, Lauren Bacall, Liz Taylor, Barbara Walters, Betty Ford, the Duchess of Marlborough and Katherine Graham were all among his friends and clients.
Halston’s influence on American fashion goes beyond his designs — he took an era, reupholstered it in Ultrasuede, dabbed “Halston” on its pulse points and made it his own. A new book, “Halston: An American Original,” by Elaine Gross and Fred Rottman — which features interviews with those who knew, loved and emulated him, as well as 225 photos, some from top fashion photographers — pays tribute to a completely original designer who, without any formal fashion training, changed the way the world dressed forever.
The first international fashion superstar — and possibly the best designer America has ever had — Halston was a master of detail, cut and finishing. His devotion to simplicity and elegance of line was so pure that he zealously avoided such frippery as zippers and buttons. More than construction, however, what Halston understood best was stardom — how to fabricate, showcase and exploit it — and how to hold people in its sway. In the mid-’70s, at the height of his success, Halston — an international legend and the king of New York nightlife — had the power to make women across the globe aspire to resemble hypertrophied drag queens wrapped in towels. He had the power to make Princess Grace of Monaco let herself be photographed in sky-blue Ultrasuede. He had the power to make the muumuu a must-have, because it was just about the only thing that still looked good on Elizabeth Taylor when she was expanding at a faster rate than the Crab Nebula. He even had the power to make it OK for dozens of Manhattan socialites to show up at Le Cirque wearing the same dress (the famed model No. 704, a knee-length, belted, Ultrasuede shirt, which the New York Times called a “status security blanket”) and think it simply divine.
“The herd instinct is the new chic!” wrote Eugenia Sheppard. “It’s like belonging to a club!”
Nowadays, when the Gap can get “everybody in vests” one month and “everybody in cords” the next, this may not seem extraordinary. But fashion and fame have changed since the late ’60s and ’70s. Ironically, Halston was instrumental — both through his designs and his business decisions — in bringing about the changes that would ultimately lead to his own demise. As much as Halston came to symbolize modernity in the ’70s, and as much as he would usher in the future of fashion, he was, in many ways, old school. He truly believed that “fashion is not made by designers, it is made by fashionable people.” He would never understand that eventually fashion would be made by business people, and that would be his undoing.
Born Roy Halston Frowick in Des Moines, Iowa, in 1932, Halston was voted “healthiest baby” at the Iowa State Fair. He always knew he wanted to be a milliner, and began creating hats — much to his family’s bafflement — at a very early age. Like Coco Chanel, who also began her career as a milliner, Halston always understood the importance of having well-connected friends. In Steven Gaines’ dishy 1990 biography, “Simply Halston: The Untold Story,” Halston’s brother Bob recalls: “In high school, my brother was driven around by rich girls in convertibles.” After moving to Chicago following an abbreviated stint at the Indiana University, Halston became involved with “Basil of the Ambassador,” a well-known celebrity hairstylist. It was through his stormy relationship with Basil that Halston first met milliner Lilly Dachi, who would eventually give him his first New York job. Within a year of arriving in New York and becoming the new best friend of several influential fashion magazine editors and publishers, Halston, as he now called himself, left Dachi’s studio to become head milliner for the luxury department store Bergdorf Goodman.
By the time he was 30, Halston had already won his first of five Coty Fashion Critics Awards, and had managed to convince Bergdorf’s to sew his name onto the labels of his hats — a privilege the department store had never granted another designer. He designed the pillbox hat Jackie Kennedy wore to the presidential inauguration — which made him internationally famous.
In 1966, determined to quit hats and go into the ready-to-wear business (which he correctly saw as the wave of the future), Halston was surprised to find that many of the rich socialites and famous celebrities who absolutely adored him and thought him an absolute genius were unwilling to finance his dressmaking venture. He was eventually able to set up shop in 1968, thanks to an investment of $125,000 from a Mrs. Estelle Marsh of Amarillo, Texas — a distinctly unfabulous and, apparently, somewhat doughy lady whom Halston privately referred to as Mrs. Marshmallow. Out of necessity, Halston turned his then-unfashionable Madison Avenue locale into an exotic, orchid-strewn oasis unlike anything in the Garment District — and subsequently into the preferred hangout of ladies who lunch but don’t fund.
His first collection, which consisted of only 25 remarkably similar yet startlingly unique pieces, was such a smash that, the day after his first show, Halston was surprised to find Babe Paley (every designer’s dream client) parked outside his studio at 9:30 in the morning. Paley, for reasons of her own, was anxious to order a custom-made argyle pantsuit, but immediately. The show had clearly had an impact on the country’s premier trendsetter. At a time when fashion shows were still stiff and formal affairs in which models walked down runways holding numbered placards in silence, Halston had instructed his models to strut down the runway to music, holding up copies of “Valley of the Dolls.” The clothes they wore — casual, free, functional and strangely pajama-like — seemed to instantly embody the feminist and egalitarian spirit of the era.
By 1972, Newsweek was calling Halston “the best designer in America.” His name was everywhere — New Yorker cartoons, gossip columns, top-10 songs. He was everybody’s permissive and forgiving best friend — bingeing on sliders at White Castle with Liz, bingeing on scotch and coke on Fire Island with Liza. He became enamored of a bizarre, unintelligible and maniacal Colombian window dresser named Victor Hugo, who liked to give window mannequins submachine guns and have them act out “the Patty Hearst bank robbery scene.” Through Hugo (so called for his physical endowments, his literary ones being undoubtedly few), Halston soon met and befriended his perfect art-world counterpart, Andy Warhol. Like Warhol, Halston was now one of the most internationally recognized figures in the world. It was inevitable that they would become friends.
In 1973 — “the year of Halston” — Halston Inc. was acquired by Norton Simon Industries (a company in the business of buying brand names) for $12 million in stock and a yearly salary for Halston of $150,000, escalating to $500,000. It was an unprecedented deal for a designer, and the potentially negative implications of selling a company built around his own name, image and creativity were not immediately apparent to anyone. Halston believed that for a company to acquire — or even desire — his name without his talent would be senseless. Why would anyone even want to put the Halston name on something that he himself had not created or at least supervised? Other designers, such as the ubiquitous Pierre Cardin, were splashing their names across anything with a surface, from cigarette lighters to cars, but Halston refused to have his name on anything that had not bubbled up from the wellspring of his own creativity.
A case in point was the creation and launch of his signature perfume, “Halston,” which would go on to be the second-biggest-selling fragrance of all time (after Chanel No. 5). NSI also owned the dowdy cosmetics firm Max Factor and hoped that an association with Halston would bolster its image. Halston was less than thrilled about working with the company and fought one of the longest and most difficult battles of his life to retain control of every aspect of the creation of his first fragrance. Among the most bitter battles he fought centered on the fragrance’s bottle. Max Factor had wanted to present it in something rectangular and Chanel-like, and coyly call it “Halston Nights.” Halston, on the other hand, had wanted to use a bottle designed by his good friend, jewelry designer Elsa Peretti, and call it just “Halston.” (The Peretti bottle, globular and rather bean-shaped, was impossible to fill on a conventional assembly line.) But perhaps most egregious to the cosmetic company’s slow-moving marketing department was that Halston refused to have the name of the fragrance printed on the bottle at all. He finally conceded to printing in tiny letters on a strip of tape wrapped around the neck of the bottle, which would have to be forcibly removed when it was opened.
By the time the fragrance launched — and became an instant, runaway hit beyond anyone’s wildest expectations — Halston the superstar had almost completely replaced the sweet Midwestern boy who had come to New York and made good. His constant drug use prompted him to start wearing dark glasses at all times — even indoors at night. He held his cigarettes vertically aloft, and always traveled with an entourage of models in matching outfits known as “the Halstonettes,” who followed him like ducklings trailing their mother. Studio 54 had become his home away from home, and Steve Rubell and Bianca Jagger his new best friends.
Meanwhile, back at headquarters, the suits were getting restless. Pressured into entering into dozens of licensing agreements with the manufacturers of such sundry items as sheets, gloves and luggage, Halston, never one to delegate authority or share credit, found it increasingly difficult to fulfill his contractual obligations. Aside from perfume sales, his business, though glamorous, was not very profitable. When NSI asked him to sign a deal with downscale J.C. Penney, in which he would essentially become its in-house name designer, Halston surprised his bosses by cheerfully agreeing, with much lip service to his lower-middle-class, Midwestern roots.
The backlash was instant. Bergdorf’s dropped Halston’s collection, and many of his formerly faithful friends and clients began defecting to other designers’ camps. In 1983, the Wall Street firm of Kohlberg, Kravis and Roberts orchestrated a leveraged buyout of NSI. Esmark Inc., a company with holdings as diverse as a chemical and fertilizer company and a bra and girdle company — as well as $6.3 billion in annual sales — bought NSI. Max Factor was spun off from Halston, making the design house even less profitable than before. Within a year, Esmark was bought by the megaconglomerate Beatrice Foods, a behemoth with $9.3 billion in annual sales. Rapidly becoming a smaller and smaller fish in an ever-growing pond, Halston didn’t even meet his last boss — the CEO of the company that owned his name — before getting locked out of his offices after throwing one too many coke-fueled hissy fits. He died in 1990, of AIDS-related causes, still trying to buy back his name.
Toward the end of “Simply Halston,” Gaines describes an anecdote Esmark’s CEO related to a group of Chicago stockbrokers after what had been, to him, a baffling encounter with the famous designer.
“He kept calling me ‘Mr. Kelly,’” the businessman recalled, “but I didn’t know what his real name was. What do you call him? Mr. Halston?” As for the absurdly grand office and the impossibly regal manner of a man whose influence was fading by the minute: “All I’ve got to say is that it was a very impressive office for a small amount of profit. It’s a long run for a short slide.”
What makes Halston’s rise and demise poignant is that it played itself out on the cusp of modern celebrity. What began as a classic Hollywood “boy from the boondocks hits the big time” rags-to-riches story ended like a scene out of “Wall Street.” Halston became a celebrity when celebrity required a certain degree of accomplishment and distinction. He was never able to understand how his name could be successfully disassociated from his work and turned into the brand to which he would become a slave.
Carina Chocano writes about TV for Salon. She is the author of "Do You Love Me or Am I Just Paranoid?" (Villard). More Carina Chocano.
Inside Elizabeth Taylor’s blockbuster wardrobe
Slide show: Nine of the screen siren's outfits, from the collection set to be auctioned by Christie's this winter
Elizabeth Taylor’s allure was such that it probably didn’t matter what she wore; particularly in her younger years, she would arguably have been attractive in almost anything. And yet, her monumental wardrobe is testament to the fact that she left nothing to chance, choosing outfits and accessories that accentuated her good looks with their own stylishness and class.
Click through the following slide show for a short preview of the hundreds of fashion-related items from Taylor’s personal collection that are set to be auctioned by Christie’s this winter (and take note: before they go on sale, standout pieces from the collection will tour the world; an exhibition will hit Los Angeles in October, and New York at the beginning of December). Among other things, you’ll see a surprisingly simple yellow chiffon wedding dress; an embroidered robe that Taylor wore to Grace Kelly’s 1969 “Scorpio Ball;” and an eye-catching Versace jacket — worn by Taylor to two AIDS benefits — that features the face of its photogenic owner herself.
For full details of the Christie’s collection (which also includes Taylor’s jewelry and other personal items), including tour and sale dates, click here.
Emma Mustich is a Salon contributor. Follow her on Twitter: @emustich. More Emma Mustich.
Paglia on Taylor: “A luscious, opulent, ripe fruit!”
Camille Paglia considers the "volcanic" Elizabeth Taylor -- and all the unworthy starlets who could never match up
Elizabeth Taylor in "Butterfield 8" I remember reading your essay on Elizabeth Taylor from Penthouse in 1992 (it appeared in the collection “Sex, Art, and American Culture”), where you called her “a pre-feminist woman.” You said: “She wields the sexual power that feminism cannot explain and has tried to destroy. Through stars like Taylor, we sense the world-disordering impact of legendary women like Delilah, Salome, and Helen of Troy. Feminism has tried to dismiss the femme fatale as a misogynist libel, a hoary cliche. But the femme fatale expresses women’s ancient and eternal control of the sexual realm.”
Continue Reading CloseElizabeth Taylor, from beauty icon to punchline
"Cat on a Hot Tin Roof," "Virginia Woolf," "Cleopatra": Elizabeth Taylor's film roles chart her rise -- and decline
Elizabeth Taylor, b. London, 1932
It is years now since Elizabeth Taylor made a proper movie. Yet we know she’s there, still: her face blooms for perfume promotions, and she’s always likely to be standing up for AIDS victims or Michael Jackson. Are we meant to think she has the same sincerity for all three? Or is she resting? That would be sad — for at one time, she seemed uncommonly engaged, in movies and scandal alike.
Though her love life and the soap opera of her health seem to have been with us as long as the H-bomb, Liz was younger than, say, Audrey Hepburn or Rock Hudson. When they made “Giant” (56, George Stevens), she was actually a year younger than James Dean. Brought up at a time when sexuality on the screen was still creatively suppressed by censorship, her private life was paraded by the press as that of a love goddess. That now looks like the last flare of classic star charisma, the last time the public could read any imagined voluptuousness into a decorous, sulky princess of “House & Garden.” Image and reality clashed like cymbals in “Cleopatra” (63, Joseph L. Mankiewicz). But though the chaos of that film’s making included Liz dangerously ill and Liz exchanging a fourth husband (Eddie Fisher) for a fifth (Richard Burton), her Queen of the Nile emerged a plump, complacent clotheshorse.
Continue Reading CloseDavid Thomson is the author of "A Biographical Dictionary of Film" (new edition just published), "Rosebud: The Story of Orson Welles" and "In Nevada." More David Thomson.
Elizabeth Taylor: Weapon of mass obsession
Gay icon, screen siren, devastator of men -- for all her majesty, the actress was also, surprisingly, human
Last week, in Miami, I stayed at a self-described “gay hotel,” mostly for the kicky interior: Every room featured, over the bed, an enormous photo portrait of Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra. She was, after all, the ultimate queen.
A friend of mine in his 60s once told me the story of accidentally running into Elizabeth Taylor with her entourage in an alley in New York. He was a successful model and Princeton architect — no stranger among beautiful people. But the sight of Elizabeth, even in the mid-’70s (when the wattage of her once perfect beauty was already slightly dimmed), was, the way he described it, something like being shot with a gun in the chest by Beauty itself. It wasn’t just her fearful symmetry, or her big-bang eyes, but the power of her being, the animation of her character. For him it was life-altering — in a lifetime of looking at art, that split-second encounter in a New York alley was still the encounter with beauty that left him most dumbstruck, some 30 years later. What he felt for Elizabeth Taylor instantly was something akin to the seismic power of pure love.
Continue Reading CloseCintra Wilson is a culture critic and author whose books include "A Massive Swelling: Celebrity Re-Examined as a Grotesque, Crippling Disease" and "Caligula for President: Better American Living Through Tyranny." Her new book, "Fear and Clothing: Unbuckling America's Fashion Destiny," will be published by WW Norton. More Cintra Wilson.
The short and strange career of Elizabeth Taylor, movie star
She's far more famous for being famous -- but she began as a profligate, sexy, immensely compelling actress
Elizabeth Taylor in "Butterfield 8" When news arrived in my household early this morning that Elizabeth Taylor had died at age 79, my wife was surprised to learn that Taylor had still been alive. Every obituary that gets written today — including the ones actually written years or months ago — will describe Taylor as one of the greatest actresses of Hollywood’s golden age, and while that’s true, it gets you nowhere in understanding the strange and bifurcated quality of her fame. Taylor had two almost unrelated careers, one as a movie star and one as a tabloid celebrity. Indeed, she may be the only pop-culture figure who crossed the rainbow bridge from the carefully managed faux-glamour of old Hollywood to the relentless trash-spectacle of the 24/7 news cycle. (Brando? Almost.) But all the roles she played, both on-screen and in person, now belong to the past.
Continue Reading ClosePage 1 of 4 in Elizabeth Taylor