Mary Roach
The power of prunes
Plum growers hope stronger bones and moister meat loaf can replace regularity as the fruit's selling points.
This is the story of a fruit, and of the power of public relations. Sometime in the 1920s, in the dark ages before Metamucil, a group of plum growers got the bright idea to promote the dried version of their product as the magic elixir for regularity. They were successful in their efforts, and the prune became linked in America’s consciousness with constipation.
Now it is the 90s, and the growers would give great amounts of prune profits to undo what their forebears have done. “The stigma has carried over to the point where we don’t even want to talk about it any more,” says Jim Degen, a food and beverage marketing consultant retained by the California Prune Board to spruce up the geriatric image of Prunus domesticus. It isn’t so much that the growers are embarrassed. It’s this: “Most eaters” — Degen divides the world into prune “eaters” and “noneaters” — “are 60-plus, and they’re dying off. We have to go after the younger market.”
The Prune Board’s first step was to move away from the ill-connoted word. Don’t say prunes. Say dried plums. (Unless you are in a photo shoot. “Prunes” is what photographers tell models to say to make them have kissy-lips. Saying “dried plums” makes you look like a llama and is unlikely to advance your modeling career.)
The Board’s next step was to dream up new and non-bathroom-related uses for their product. What dried plums do well, or more specifically what the fiber in them does well, is absorb water. As in your intestines, so in food items: It makes the product moister. What kind of products need added moisture? Processed meats, for one. “Any food,” said Degen, “that’s precooked, frozen and reheated.”
This puts us squarely in the realm of institutionalized foods and makes prunes excellent fodder for the USDA Commodities Procurement Branch. This is the program that buys up enormous lots of surplus produce, meats and dairy goods, and distributes them free or cheap to the feeders of captive eaters: nursing homes, prisons, public schools, hospitals. (Last year the U.S. government bought 252,000 pounds of surplus pitted dry prunes.) To this end, Degen has contracted meat science professionals to come up with prototypes of prune-enhanced cafeteria entrees: prune meatloaf, prune sausages, prune turkey meatballs, prune hamburgers and frankfurters.
The recipes for the bold new prune foods were formulated by a processed meats expert in the Texas A&M meat science program named Jim Keeton. I asked Keeton if he found the addition of prune puree to frankfurter and hamburgers to be a strange or distressing idea. He did not. “It’s something that would not be harmful, but yet contributes a functional attribute to the product.” Coming from a processed meats man, this is probably as close as you get to a gush.
Keeton went on to say that you can’t actually taste the prune puree, and that he found the prune meat products quite good. Mind you, this is a man who reads the Journal of Food Texture and who would, given the chance, try cow udder, one of the few “variety meats” forbidden from use in American sausages and processed meats. (Lungs are another no-no, though salivary glands are OK.)
But what about, to use Degen’s terminology, the laxation side effects? Do we want our children constantly sprinting from classrooms with the bathroom pass? Degen countered that the hamburgers are only 3 percent prune puree, which is not enough to cause a problem. Just exactly how many prunes constitutes a problem has been the subject of formal scientific inquiry. In a 1991 study designed to test whether prunes lower cholesterol (and funded by the Prune Board), 41 men who ate 12 prunes a day for four weeks (referred to in the study as “the prune period”) did not report “runny stools.” They did, however, have 20 percent higher fecal weights during the prune period, confirming the regularity-promoting quality of prunes and generating deep sympathy for the author’s research assistants, to whom the weighing no doubt fell.
But what if the men had eaten 12 of something else with a similar amount of fiber, say dried apricots or figs? Wouldn’t the effect be the same? Is there something unique about the laxative properties of the prune?
This remains one of science’s unsolved mysteries. For if fiber were to blame (or thank, depending on your gastrointestinal situation), why then would prune juice do the trick? Degen points to prunes’ high levels of sorbitol, a sugar alcohol that gives some people the runs. But there are others in the industry who believe the prune’s reputation as a superior cathartic to be founded in nothing other than the desire to sell more prunes circa 1920. In Northern Italy, prunes are used as both a laxative and an anti-diarrheal, which tells us something, though perhaps about Northern Italians rather than about prunes.
It’s not that science hasn’t tried to sort it out. In a 1934 journal paper entitled “The Laxative Principle in Prunes,” researcher George Emerson applied prune extracts to rabbit, guinea pig, dog and cat intestines and noted “increases in tonus and amplitude of contraction” and concluded that perhaps caffeic acid was the culprit. As the intestines in question were outside of and down the hall from the (quite dead) animals at the time, the paper’s conclusions are somewhat questionable, as is, perhaps, the psychological well-being of Dr. Emerson.
One thing is certain, and that is that if you are a rat, you can eat all the prunes you want and suffer no untoward effects. A 1999 study (funded by the California Prune Board) by Bahram H. Arjmandi, of the Department of Nutrition Sciences at Oklahoma State University, tested whether prunes reverse bone loss by feeding osteoporotic rats a 25 percent prune diet. According to Arjmandi, the rats showed “no sign of diarrhea” (and, mysteriously, regained their lost bone).
No one has ever tested a 25 percent prune diet in humans. Fearing the worst, Arjmandi chose to use a 5 percent prune diet (four or five a day) in his follow-up trial on 60 women. The results will be in soon. Meanwhile, the closest anyone has come was an unintentional experiment on monkeys in 1905. Frustrated by rising labor costs, a California prune grower imported 500 monkeys from Central America and organized them into crews of 50, each with a human foreman. The monkeys proved to be swift and tireless pickers, but could not be dissuaded from eating the prunes immediately upon picking them. Alas, history did not record whether the primates experienced “runny stools” or merely an increased fecal weight.
If Arjmandi’s human subjects grow thicker bones from eating four or five prunes a day, it will be cause for celebration over at the Prune Board. They will have found their long-sought public relations panacea and will no longer need to dream up prune-enhanced cafeteria items, and it will be a fine and glorious prune period in our nation’s history.
Don’t jump!
Exactly what happens when a person leaps off the Golden Gate Bridge? Reading this article is the safest way to find out.
In 1996, I jumped off a 350-foot-high bridge over a river gorge. I wanted to experience what it would be like to leap, head first, from a lethal height and hurtle toward my death. The death part itself I had no interest in experiencing — in fact, a fairly strong interest in not experiencing — so I had a bungee cord wrapped around my ankles. After the initial terror and involuntary-scream portion of the event, the fall was quite enjoyable. I didn’t flail or rotate helplessly like people pushed from balconies on TV, but dropped smoothly in dive formation. I felt the way, as a child, I imagined Superman feeling. It led me to believe that jumping off San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge would be a lovely way to go.
Continue Reading CloseThe last tourist in Mozambique
Want to chat with the president? No problem, as long as you're willing to go where nobody's ready for you.
Late one night in 1995, I dialed directory assistance for Maputo, Mozambique, and asked for the fax number for the Office of the President. I sent His Excellency a letter on a piece of Health magazine stationery, requesting an interview on the topic of meditation. I had read that President Chissano was a devotee of Transcendental Meditation, so much so that he required his cabinet members and his military recruits to be trained in TM. He even attributed the signing of the peace treaty with the guerrilla group RENAMO in part to the practice of TM in his country. A week later, the president’s secretary faxed me back. To my great and giddy disbelief, Chissano had agreed to see me.
Continue Reading CloseLadies who spray
If you sprinkle when you tinkle, cut it out!
Let’s say you are afraid of contracting VD from a toilet seat. You are misinformed, but we’ll get to that later. What do you do? You use a disposable toilet seat cover. There. Perfect. All is good with the world.
But all is not good with the world. In maybe a third of the stalls in women’s rest rooms these days (according to my desultory research), the toilet seat is liberally puddled with piss. Somewhere along the line, germ-phobic women began crouching above the toilet seat rather than sitting on a paper seat cover. Women have begun peeing like men, but they lack the courtesy to put up the seat. And since women cannot aim like men — they have nothing to aim with — a good many of them end up hosing urine on the seat. Very few, it would seem, bother to wipe it up.
Continue Reading CloseDeep, active penetration
How researchers at one toothbrush maker figure out ways to make dental hygiene a pleasurable experience.
You’re probably not getting deep, active penetration. Seventy percent of American adults aren’t. But I am. I’m getting deep, active penetration because I spent an afternoon at Oral-B Laboratories, where deep, active between-teeth penetration is a multimillion-dollar pursuit and where they hand out samples of their new deeply, actively penetrating $5 CrossAction toothbrush.
Apparently the CrossAction isn’t just any toothbrush. It isn’t, in the same way the Mach 3 wasn’t just any razor. Both were developed by Gillette (Gillette owns Oral-B), a company with a flair for extravagant, costly research into everyday toiletry items.
Continue Reading CloseTwelve steps in the end zone
Self-help for sports junkies (or the spouses who can't stand it).
According to Kevin Quirk, recovered sportsaholic and the author of the self-help paperback “Not Now, Honey, I’m Watching the Game,” my husband is addicted to baseball. I, in turn, am addicted to my husband. This means that five or six times a year I accompany him to the ballpark, though I care nothing about the San Francisco Giants and understand few subtleties of the game. I would love it if my husband were addicted to me rather than to Dusty Baker and his merry spitting men, and so I turned to Quirk’s book for help. More accurately, I suppose, I turned to Quirk’s book to make Ed feel bad about his passion for baseball, for I am a jealous and needy person. No doubt I suffer from some as-yet-unnamed personality syndrome that someone will one day write a book about, which Ed can then buy and use to make me feel bad, too.
Continue Reading ClosePage 1 of 6 in Mary Roach