St. Patrick's Day

A Hibernian in the woodpile

On St. Patrick's Day, I'm black and green and not blue at all.

Recently released U.S. Census data reveal telling demographic, or at least attitudinal, shifts afoot in the American population and how Americans identify themselves in terms of race. A New York Times story says 5 percent of African-Americans identified themselves as multiracial, or belonging to more than one race; that’s many more than government forecasters with the Office of Management and Budget were expecting.

But this is nothing new for me. In fact, this kind of self-reflection about my mixed heritage is something of an annual ritual. On past St. Patrick’s Days, close white friends have joked about my being “black Irish.” That’s been my cue to trot out a story about my great-great-grandfather, Albert Kelly, who got off a boat from Ireland in Philadelphia in 1868. The family griot, my uncle Douglas who lives in Washington state, says that Kelly married Hilda Cheatham, a Cherokee woman, and settled down on a farm in Mathews County, Va. The youngest of their four children, James Handy Kelly, was my great-grandfather and grew up to spawn my father’s side of the family.

The phrase “black Irish” trips off people’s tongues without much thought. In 20th-century mythology, a romantic cast of characters explains the term: Spanish sailors with generations of Moorish blood in their veins, shipwrecked on Irish shores after being separated from the Spanish Armada; Irishmen deported from Cromwell’s England, pressed into indentured servitude and eventually intermarrying with Africans and Indians on the Caribbean island of Montserrat, yielding descendants who still allegedly speak in a distinct brogue to this day. Others contend it’s an American term that bears no relationship to actual African or Hispanic heritage, while still others blarney further on a genealogical mailing list.

Calling a white person “black Irish” doesn’t seem exclusionary in the same way calling a light-skinned black person a “redbone” would, given the African-American community’s long-running issues with skin color. But I guess the issue isn’t what you call yourself or what you can get others to call you, but how comfortable you are in your own skin.

I’m not the only brother with a Hibernian in the woodpile, either. In “MultiAmerica: Essays on Cultural Wars and Cultural Peace,” the African-American author Ishmael Reed writes of being invited to Irish cultural events because of his Irish heritage, and recalls attending an Irish-American writers conference at San Francisco’s New College in March 1995. And in an interview in “Solo,” a 1998 book on women singer-songwriters, the African-American jazz vocalist Cassandra Wilson briefly riffed on her affinity for Irish culture. “We have to deal with the fact that a lot of us do have European ancestry. That’s something that we don’t readily talk about,” Wilson said. “Why am I so drawn to Irish culture and why do I feel so comfortable with the music? I often wonder if that feeling has something to do with Irish ancestry … There’s a lot happening in many of us. I think you have to celebrate every part. It’s what you are.”

And, of course, the Irish themselves weren’t always thought of as being altogether white. Anti-Irish sentiment after the great potato famine migration of the 1840s led to their being called “Irish niggers”; the two despised groups were often lumped together at the bottom of the American bucket. Two of the 19th century’s great African-Americans were well aware of the parallels.

“During my stay in Dublin, I took occasion to visit the huts of the poor in its vicinity and of all places to witness human misery, ignorance, degradation, filth and wretchedness, an Irish hut is pre-eminent,” Frederick Douglass wrote. “I see much here to remind me of my former condition … He who really and truly feels for the American slave cannot steel his heart to the woes of others.”

W.E.B. DuBois, who grew up in Great Barrington, Mass., in the 1870s, recalled that “the racial angle was more clearly defined against the Irish than against me.”

Still, “African-American” is how I identify myself. It’s how others seem to see me as well, and it’s not as personal a battle for me as it is for some mixed-race people. For some, not acknowledging both sides of their ancestry amounts to a fundamental betrayal of their family’s history. I’m not judging their decision, but it doesn’t feel that way to me personally. I also know that racial data translate into political power. So I’m not checking any other box on future census forms, regardless of my motley heritage. I love the idea that I’ve got some Irish in me, but I’m not ready to go so far as to define myself as Irish-American. Then again, I’m a guy who can’t say the word “Cablinasian” without laughing out loud. The joke will be on me someday soon when my Delhi-born wife and I decide to have kids and raise them as modest, unassuming superhuman golf ‘droids.

But maybe one-race-box-checking guys like me are destined to go the way of the dodo. On this census, not only did lots of black people identify themselves as belonging to more than one racial group, but millions of white people all over America acknowledged their Native American roots. This led to a huge leap in the American Indian population in the latest census, one not directly attributable to birth and death rates, outmarriage, mixed-ethnicity kids or even to the lust for a casino license.

I’m looking forward to my friend Adrienne’s prediction that America will “turn into Brazil.” It may confuse the hell out of the Census Bureau, but we’ll win a lot more beauty pageants and soccer games.

George Kelly is a copy editor at Salon.

President O’Bama? Irish-American relatives identified

The President's ancestry can be traced back to the Emerald Isle

President Barack Obama found out years ago he had an Irish ancestor who fled the potato famine in Ireland in 1850. He can now claim 28 living relatives who also descended from that Irishman, including a Vietnam veteran, a school nurse and a displeased Arizona Republican.

The president’s newly identified relatives are revealed in a study released to The Associated Press by Ancestry.com, a family history website whose genealogists also traced descendants of 23 other Irish passengers on the ship that brought Falmouth Kearney to the United States when he was 19.

The survey allowed genealogists to further trace branches in Obama’s family tree and others who arrived on the ship, known as the Marmion, on March 20, 1850.

According to the survey, the passengers’ descendants live in Canada, Syria and throughout the United States. Among Obama’s newly identified relatives is 83-year-old Dorma Lee Reese, of Tucson, Ariz.

“I’m not a Democrat, so I can’t say I clapped,” said Reese, a retired brain-imaging technologist. “I don’t appreciate what he’s done by any means, but I do appreciate that he holds that office.”

Kearney arrived with his brother-in-law William and his wife, Margaret Cleary. They were destined for Ohio, where Kearney’s relative had left property in his name. Kearney married, had 10 children and later settled in Indiana, where he worked as a farmer.

Obama’s mother, Ann Dunham, was a descendant of one of Kearney’s daughters, Mary Ann Kearney, and Jacob William Dunham. The White House didn’t immediately return a message Wednesday seeking comment on the president’s Irish heritage.

When the 903-ton Marmion arrived after a 3,000-mile voyage to New York Harbor from Liverpool, England, carrying 289 passengers, it was following a well-worn route used by masses of Irish immigrants.

Among the carpenters, bricklayers and shoemakers arriving that day was Kearney, listed in records only as a laborer.

Like many of the passengers, he was fleeing a country ravaged by a potato blight that destroyed families and livelihoods and left the country starving. From the 1840s to the end of the 1850s, about 1.7 million Irish immigrants came to the United States.

On the day of the Marmion’s arrival, the Brooklyn Daily Eagle reported that the St. Patrick’s Society in Brooklyn had held its first annual banquet; a toast was made to the passengers’ homeland, referring to it by its ages-old nickname: “Though gloomy shadows hang o’er thee now … as darkness is densest, even just before day, So thy gloom, truest Erin, may soon pass away.”

By 1860, the city had the largest Irish population in the world outside Ireland. Nearly 37 million Americans claimed Irish ancestry in 2009, according to census estimates.

Ancestry.com revealed Obama’s Irish roots and his connection to Kearney in 2007, but it is uncovering its new findings this week following months of work as part of a larger project on Irish heritage.

“We had this idea of trying to look at a micro-study of how Irish immigrants have impacted the United States,” said Anastasia Harman, the lead family historian for Ancestry.com.

Other distant Obama relatives include Roma Joy Palmer, 66, of Mulvane, Kan., who is retired from the insurance business, and Daniel Dillard, 63, a Vietnam War veteran and retired community college professor.

“I really don’t like to claim a relationship to Obama. He is not my favorite president,” said Palmer, a Republican. “I don’t have anything against him personally. But I don’t think we have the same agenda.”

Dillard, though, said he took pride in his family “being related to a president of the United States,” even though he is a registered Republican, did not vote for Obama and opposes his politics.

Sandra West, 65, of Hereford, Ariz., also was identified by Ancestry.com but had already discovered years ago that she was distantly related to Obama when she investigated the Dunhams of Kansas.

“I figured there had to be a connection somewhere,” she said.

West, who works as a nurse at Palominas Elementary School, said that it had become a running joke and that the principal had suggested requesting a tour of the White House. But West figured the president already had enough going on.

“I don’t think he would want to pay much attention to me,” she said. “I’m sort of a peon down the road. I’m nobody special.”

——

Online:

http://www.Ancestry.com/Irishrecords

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I hate St. Patrick’s Day

As an Irish immigrant, I'm tired of my country being depicted as a bunch of drunken buffoons

Geralyn Monahan-Jones, from Beacon, NY, greets participants of the annual St. Patrick's Day Parade on Fifth Avenue, Friday, March 17, 2006 in New York. This is the 245th year that St. Patrick's Day Parade has been held in New York City. (AP Photo/Dima Gavrysh)(Credit: AP)

On March 17, 1987, I experienced my first American St. Patrick’s Day, my first offshore glimpse of my own country, broadcast in psychedelic green. I was a waitress in an Irish-American pub in upstate New York. The night before, I telephoned my parents back home to explain that the pub would be too loud and crowded to call on the day itself.

“Why?” My mother asked. “What’s all the fuss about?”   

The “fuss” began the next morning with an 11 a.m. queue outside the pub door. It ended at 5 a.m. the following day as the last taxi drivers waited for the final revelers to make their way through snow banks dribbled with human vomit. The intervening hours had been a mosh pit of sweating bodies swaying to the band. All this for St. Patrick, a holy man from Wales who banished snakes and Celtic paganism.

The entire episode was a million miles from my childhood experience on St. Patrick’s. Back then, we walked to church in our best winter coats, sporting our sprigs of freshly pulled shamrocks from the fields. And that homegrown, 1960s version is another million miles from Ireland’s current Disney-fied extravaganza that borrows backward from its American counterpart.  

The next day, March 18, I soaked my blistered waitress’s feet and tallied the day’s tips. Over one very long day of pushing through the crowds with plastic cups of beer,  I had doubled my weekly salary as a primary school teacher back home. Only three months in my newly adopted country, and I’d already learned that the wearin’ o’ the green had a real payoff.

And a price.

For the next 24 years, I would learn just what that price was (and is) each time some stranger or acquaintance mimics my accent — the “faith ‘n begorrah,” Barry Fitzgerald version. Or each time someone calls me Colleen, because “that’s what all you Irish girls are named.” Or each time some idiot tells me the ”seven-course Irish dinner”  (a six pack and a potato) joke. Or each time I decline that last drink for the road to a chorus of, ”Aw, Jesus, you’re Irish. You must drink.” 

 Would these jokesters mimic any other non-native accent — say, Latina or Chinese or French Canadian — back to its speaker? Except for a wincing glance, I’ve only spoken up once — a silence I never maintain when faced with slurs that demean other groups.

It makes me wonder if, over the course of 24 years, I’ve internalized the message that the Irish in America are supposed to be great old fun. That we’re exempt from the standard politesse that tries to purge insult from our sidewalks, our workplaces and our public discourse. From Hollywood to the Hamptons, from the St. Patrick morning roasts to the “devil-knows-your-dead” toasts, we Irish have fed this sense of ourselves as the group in America who can take the joke — however demeaning and stereotypical that joke is.

Historically, a series of Punch cartoons (“The Bogtrotters,” “The Irish Ogre”) in the mid-to-late 1800s portrayed the newly arrived Irish in America as drunk, illiterate and racially inferior. The cartoonists gave us a flat nose, pronounced mouth and lips, low forehead, and an air of brutishness. According to one historian, ”Americans in the mid-1800s were just beginning to consider the theory of evolution … in the Irishmen, they detected animalistic qualities.”  

In the 1800s, the Irish were not alone. The African-Americans, along with the newly arrived Chinese and Germans, all had their ethnic or national traits misrepresented, exaggerated and mocked. 

But today, when our 21st century gift shops and drug stores sport their racks of “Happy St. Patty’s” greeting cards every year, I’m not convinced that the 1800s Punch cartoons are a thing of the past. As I look at those cards with their palsied-faced “St. Patty’s” drunks and the overflowing beer mugs, I know that I’ve never seen a Kwanzaa, a Hanukkah or a Chinese New Year card that depicts its annual celebration (and its celebrants) through such buffoonish cartoons.

Until that changes, there’s little of today’s St. Patrick’s I consider part of my heritage.   

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Aine M. Greaney is an Irish-born writer living on Boston's North Shore. Her second novel, "Dance Lessons," comes out this month.

Irish soda bread scones for St. Patrick’s Day and friendship

My friend's marriage fell apart at dinner, after the scones were gone. So I baked up another batch

A version of this story first appeared on Bellwether Vance’s blog.

Sue’s marriage fell apart and we became best friends on the same day. A St. Patrick’s Day.

We were new friends that year, with daughters in the same class. On paper we made no sense. She was seventeen years my senior, a native Minnesotan, a former emergency room nurse, married to a cardiologist, living in a mansion. I was … none of those things, but I could cook. I invited her and her family over for a meal of corned beef and cabbage and “Irish soda bread” scones, filled with golden raisins and caraway seeds.

I prepared dinner and, knowing the serving time would be loose given her husband’s schedule, I kept everything at a simmer, ready once he was able to break away. As time crept on and the children grew restless, Sue made a phone call on the front porch while I kept the girls busy with a video, and while her son surreptitiously ate every one of the scones I had laid out on a decorative platter in the center of the table.

She came in off the porch, her face disappointed in practiced lines, full of apology for her husband’s absence, and then her eyes widened in horror when she realized her son, a notoriously picky eater, had scarfed down all of the scones. “I am so sorry….” she began.

I stopped her right there, sat her down at the kitchen table, poured her a second glass of wine, started a new movie for the kids, and made another batch of scones so that we’d be on for dinner in twenty minutes. The way she sank into the chair, at ease. I’ll never forget it. As if it had been forever since she had exhaled so deeply.

This year, I watched as her mansion was sold for less than half of its appraised value, packed with her — years of boxed-up memories — helped her find a much more modest home, and sat with her as the movers made it all final.

As the moving van drove away, I laid back onto the concrete of her new front stoop, groaning as my spine relaxed. She sat down beside me, looking like a wrung-out dishcloth, threadbare and forlorn. She has looked that way for several years. Soon, after more than twenty years as a stay-at-home mom, at the age of sixty, she will have to find a full time job.

I said, “The saddest thing, Sue, is that you never got your doctor’s wife boobs.”

“You have engineer’s wife boobs,” she said.

“With those boobs you could be the secret wife of a Catholic priest.”

“What does that mean?” she asked.

“I don’t know, but it’s probably true.”

We were tired beyond laughter, and we laughed, grateful that we could.

Tonight, Sue will again join us for St. Patrick’s Day. I’ll make a vegetarian stew, potato and cabbage cakes browned in butter, and the “Irish soda bread” scones that marked the true start of our friendship. We don’t make sense. She won’t eat collard greens. I don’t drink wine. Our daughters do not speak. Yet, we will feast and break scones, and love one another for one more year. At least.

“Irish Soda Bread” Scones

There is no baking soda in these scones, but with the golden raisins and the caraway seeds, they are very reminiscent of the Irish Soda Bread I make. These bake up faster than a traditional soda bread loaf, and because they are already portioned, they are easy to share with neighbors and friends.

2 C all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp baking powder
4 Tbsp sugar
½ tsp salt
5 Tbsp butter, very cold, cut into small pieces
¾ C golden raisins
1 Tbsp caraway seeds
1 C heavy cream (plus a little more to brush on the top of the scones)

  1. Preheat your oven to 425.
  2. In a food processor, combine the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Pulse a few times. Dot the top butter across the top of the flour mixture and pulse fifteen times. Add the raisins and the caraway seeds. Pulse a few more times to mix them in.
  3. Pour the cream over the top and pulse briefly, until the mixture begins to come together. Dump the mixture (there will be some dry, floury bits still unmixed) onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently until you can form it into a ball. It will look a little craggy and that’s okay. Don’t knead it too much.
  4. Pat into a circle that is about 8 inches across, and cut into eight wedges. Place each scone couple of inches apart on a lightly greased cookie sheet (or use parchment or silpat). Brush the top of each scone with a bit of cream, and sprinkle lightly with sea salt and caraway seeds.
  5. Bake for about 15 minutes (check them at 12), or until the tops are light brown. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Serve with butter and orange marmalade and good friends.

 

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Cartoon: The Irish Village People

Gay band crashes St. Patrick's Day parade

Open/Bob Eckstein

Bob Eckstein is a cartoonist for the New Yorker. He wrote the book "The History of the Snowman".

St. Patrick’s Day controversy: Is corned beef and cabbage Irish?

Many insist that it's their culinary heritage, but others are calling it blarney

In third grade, my teacher announced that we would be celebrating St. Patrick’s Day by wearing green hats and giving ourselves fake Irish names. And so was born that great Celtic patriot Francis McLam, and next to me was the even-more-improbable sounding Mike O’Gotkowski. Our friend Michael O’Reilly was now — in the face of all this Irishness — no longer sufficiently Irish, and so he became Michael McO’Reilly. It was my first inkling of how strange Americans are about traditions on St. Patrick’s Day, a feeling reinforced years later by watching people of all races and ethnicities pretend at Irishness by getting plowed on green beer and painting themselves like leprechauns. But despite all this, maybe the most straightforward of St. Patrick’s Day celebrations, eating the corned beef and cabbage, is secretly one of the strangest.

“My Irish family never ate corned beef,” the letter began. I’d just written a story about new immigrants in Queens, called “Where Curry Replaced Corned Beef and Cabbage,” and a reader was gently protesting my mention of that stereotypical dish.

“My grandmother was perplexed that Americans associate corned beef with being Irish. In Ireland, most people ate pig. Lots of bacon, lots of sausage (lots of trichinosis).

…Corned beef was made popular in New York bars at lunchtime. The bars offered a ‘free lunch’ to the Irish construction workers who were building NYC in the early part of the 20th century. But there’s no such thing as a free lunch. You had to buy a couple of beers or shots of whiskey to get that free lunch. And that’s how corned beef became known as an ‘Irish’ food. My grandmother hated the stuff and wouldn’t allow it in her home. I myself first tasted corned beef when I was in my thirties at some non-Irish-American person’s ‘St. Paddy’s Day’ party.”

Dismayed, I sent that letter to a friend from Dublin. “Every word of that post is pure gospel,” she wrote back. “We NEVER eat corned beef and cabbage. We mock Americans and their bizarre love of that ‘meat’.”

Irish people denying corned beef and cabbage! Shocking! Like if Italians denied pizza and Chinese denied General Tso’s Chicken. Wait, they have? OK, well, let’s move on.

Theories abound as to why Irish Americans wear the corned beef and cabbage mantle. There’s the “Irish drink a lot in bars” theory, above. And then there’s the “they got to New York and couldn’t find their beloved bacon, so they started eating their Jewish neighbors’ corned beef instead” theory.

First, let’s settle one thing: Ireland knew how to rock the corned beef. According to Irish food experts Colman Andrews and Darina Allen, corned beef was, in fact, a major export of Cork from the 17th century, shipping it all over Europe and as far as the sunny British West Indies, where they still love their corned beef in cans.

Most of the Irish who came in massive waves to America during the Potato Famine in the late 1840s were from around Cork, so they probably knew corned beef well enough. But, as the historian Hasia Diner argues in “Hungering for America,” they may have been trying to forget altogether what they were and weren’t eating back in Ireland.

By the 1900s, she writes, there was a movement in Ireland to revive Irish culture, flagging after decades of emigration and centuries of English colonial rule. The Irish were embracing their language, their dance and music, but there was little mention of traditional cuisine. “Food lay at the margins of Irish culture as a problem, an absence, a void,” Diner writes. “The Irish experience with food — recurrent famines and an almost universal reliance on the potato, a food imposed on them — had left too painful a mark on the Catholic majority to be considered a source of communal expression and national joy.”

While many Irish Americans found livelihoods running inns and groceries, few sold any food they called “Irish.” Her research turns up many early Irish American St. Patrick’s Day banquets that celebrate Irishness with menus tricked out with “harps, shamrocks, Celtic-style lettering, Celtic crosses, all potent reminders of Ireland. [But] the Irishness of the food amounted to little.” The dinners featured French-sounding dishes, like “Cotelletes de pintades a le Reine.” Even potatoes got washed through the de-Irishizer: “Pommes de terre persillade,” which anyone could tell was just boiled potatoes with parsley.

So there was a culinary hole in the culture of the Irish immigrants, one partially filled with that great filler of food holes: bacon.

“Only ‘Irish bacon and greens’ appeared yearly as a food meant to convey the homeland. Bacon may have been the perfect food vehicle to link their Irish and American selves. Americans, on the one hand, had been savoring [exported] Irish bacon for a century or more. On the other, Irish farmers who had long produced massive amounts of it, only began to regularly eat it themselves by the end of the 19th century. By the time these menus were being printed up, bacon had become a ubiquitous item on the dinner tables of modest Irish farm families. Hence, unlike potatoes, bacon carried no stigma of shame. It rather announced the successful progress of Ireland…”

So why aren’t we all getting sloshed on green beer and eating bacon and cabbage today? The problem, according to Marion Casey, clinical assistant professor of Irish-American studies in the Glucksman Ireland House of New York University, was perhaps that the Irish loved their pig a little too much. (Yes, food blogosphere: This is apparently possible.)

Many farmers in Ireland raised pigs for sale to help pay the rent, but somewhere along the line in America, that tradition mixed with the bitter cocktail of prejudice and xenophobia to turn it  into a slur: “Paddy with his pig in the parlor.” The phrase may have had rhythm, but it wasn’t pretty. (I mean, the postcard in the picture above is hardly flattering, now is it?)

By the 1910s, pigs were all over St. Patrick’s Day cards and novelties, including a game called “Pin-the-Tail-on-the-Pig” for kids. “Irish Americans,” Casey wrote me in an e-mail, “vigorously protested an alignment of their ethnicity with an animal that carried all sorts of connotations about dirt and disease.”

But “by this time,” she continued, “much of Irish America had moved beyond mere survival. They ate pork and beef, salted or not. It was just as easy to claim corned beef as their choice for holiday meals as it was to claim pork. When the latter became stigmatized, one became preferable to the other.” Of course, by this time, old memories of the corned beef back in Cork may have bubbled back to the surface. In 1960, we had the first St. Patrick’s Day card reference to corned beef and cabbage, and before we knew it, little Chinese boys in the suburbs would be pretending to be Irish in the middle of March.

But is that any weirder than Irish people pretending to be Irish? Each of the experts I spoke to would agree on one thing: that there isn’t really a point in arguing about authenticity, because authenticity always changes. People make up traditions all the time, so why is it that only traditions old enough for you to forget how they got made up in the first place are the “real” ones? This year, instead of corned beef, I’m going to serve bacon and cabbage stir-fried. But I’m keeping my name. 

 

From the Mick Moloney Collection of Irish American Music and Popular Culture, AIA031.4 St. Patrick’s Day Postcards, Archives of Irish America, Bobst Library, New York University

 

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Francis Lam is Features Editor at Gilt Taste, provides color commentary for the Cooking Channel show Food(ography), and tweets at @francis_lam.

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