Iran
Make wanderlust, not war
Americans should stop listening to the fear-mongers and travel overseas. It's the best way to start bringing the U.S. back into the world community.
In October of 2001, as American bombs peppered Afghanistan, I opened my suitcase and began packing. Sunblock and snorkel, Scrabble and socks, all found their place in the Chinese puzzle of my luggage. As I was jamming a Telephoto lens into my sneaker, my friend Velo rapped at the door.
“I can’t believe you’re leaving,” he said. “Aren’t you terrified?”
“A little.” I shrugged. “Anybody would be.”
“Then why do you have to go? I mean, why now?
“It’s too much trouble to change my flight.”
“The airline would understand,” Velo frowned.
“I know.” I plucked my travel clock from the nightstand, and slipped it into my toiletry kit. “But I have a meeting. As awful as it sounds, I have to be in America by Tuesday.”
Outside my window, the sun glittered on the Celebes Sea. Velo and I were standing in my hotel room in Indonesia, where I’d just completed a two-week assignment for Outside magazine. Riots in Jakarta, and the threat of reprisals against Americans, had earned the most populous Islamic nation in the world a grim travel warning from the U.S. State Department. This was the last place on earth my mother would want me to be.
Yet few places in the world had ever seemed safer, or more welcoming and friendly. Remaining in Sulawesi was a lovely thought; it was the idea of returning to the United States, with its post-9/11 hysteria and militarism, that filled me with dread.
Today, with the United States blasting its way to Baghdad in a war that has polarized our citizens and appalled much of the world, the notion of traveling anywhere may seem preposterous. I take the opposite view. There has never been a better time for Americans to travel, or a more important time for us to do so.
I say this not because hotel rates are low, or travel meccas like Nepal and Bali are blissfully uncrowded, or desperate airlines are practically giving away tickets. It’s my conviction that, if we hope to arrest the damage wreaked by the Bush administration and salvage whatever goodwill remains on this planet, we have to get out of our bunkers and meet the world’s inhabitants. And they have to meet us.
As the world knows from watching TV footage of boisterous antiwar demonstrations in San Francisco, New York and other homefront cities, not all Americans support the shock and awe being rained on Iraq by the Bush administration. Citizens of countries from Southeast Asia to Latin America to the Middle East, accustomed to governments of corrupt and self-interested bureaucrats, are well aware that Americans are not synonymous with their leaders — especially our present leaders, who assumed power in what many educated people, from Italy to Iceland, interpreted as a corporate coup d’état.
For months leading up to the war, the hawk lobby in Washington and in the media did its best to demean France, Germany and other countries opposed to invading Iraq and instill an us-vs.-them feeling in the American public. It wasn’t a hard sell. Like the rest of the human race, Americans are subject to primal impulses rooted in eons of tribal behavior. It doesn’t take much to throw us back to our old habits: snorting at outsiders and stomping around the fire pit while “sheltering in place.” There is nothing the White House would rather see than a nation of shut-ins, held hostage by fear and animosity. George W. Bush may have set foreign policy back 50 years — but he’s turning our global consciousness back 40,000.
Despite all this, America itself, as opposed to the cabal that has hijacked it, is still widely admired and respected. People are fascinated by our country and its high and low obsessions. In February, as I traveled through Burma and Thailand, Michael Jackson and the Columbia disaster were front-page news. If I mentioned to a Thai (or a traveling European) that I was from the U.S., the reaction was consistent: “America! Great country! But hey — who’s this Bush cowboy, and what does he think he’s doing?”
This was true six weeks ago. How true will it be six weeks in the future, as images of death, destruction and orphaned children continue to saturate the global airwaves? No one can say. One lesson we are learning from the Bush administration is that a handful of supremely arrogant people can create enormous, possibly irreversible harm — and they can do it very quickly.
I see travel as an antidote to this mess. If our leaders are degrading the image of America and Americans, we have to restore that image with dialogue and eye contact. If our own diplomats are forbidden to express their displeasure with this administration’s policies, you and I must take their positions in the field. And if our sense of the world is withering away, starved by the scraps of information we are so selectively fed, we must gorge ourselves on the feast of overseas travel.
Despite the illusion of worldwide awareness created by satellite television and the Internet, nothing compares with actually walking the streets of foreign lands and talking to local residents. Our perspective on our world and its people is narrowed by a news industry that, like our government, thrives on anger and anxiety: television graphics of crude country maps outlined in flames or emblazoned with tanks and war planes. To travel with open eyes is to redraw those maps, and connect with the human faces and universal concerns behind the cardboard cutouts on the evening news.
In August 1999, I traveled to Iran to write about the millennium’s last total solar eclipse for Salon. When I arrived, I broke from my small American group, choosing to watch the event from Esfahan’s huge public square. The vast plaza was packed with more than 50,000 Iranians. There were reporters and cameras from all over Persia, Europe and Central Asia. Shortly before the miraculous moment when Iran would be cast in shadow, a demonstration erupted across the square. Banners were lofted and American flags set afire as scores of demonstrators chanted anti-U.S. slogans. The cameras muscled in, and the noisy rant was prominently featured in news reports across the world. For millions of viewers, this was just the latest eruption of rage from Iran: a nation of fist-waving extremists, with an undying grudge against the Great Satan.
Here’s what those viewers didn’t see: the moment the demonstration began, all the Iranians in my vicinity — men, women and young people — moved toward the visiting American, forming a protective ring around me and my gear. One man put his hand on my shoulder, assuring me that I was safe. Another poked my arm, and sneered at the pack of demonstrators. “They should get a job,” he muttered.
In an era where communication has become almost borderless, the Bush administration is isolating America, and Americans, from the planetary community. Our most important challenge is to reverse this trend. Travel — more than anything else we can do as individuals — shatters that isolation, and forges bridges of goodwill and understanding. A conscious traveler is nothing less than an ambassador-at-large: a voice and presence with astonishing power, able to shatter the spiral of suspicion, and to honor the humanity of everyone he or she might encounter.
As an American traveler, one faces tough questions about our government’s unilateralism, the Kyoto Accords, the export of pesticides, our gun culture and the death penalty, among others. How we reply, surprisingly, is actually not so important. In my experience, the main purpose of these queries is to get us to listen. For though it may seem preposterous, people in developing countries — and throughout much of Europe — sincerely believe that having the ear of an American is tantamount to having the ear of America.
They’re absolutely right. As we all know, Americans who travel are very vocal about their experiences. An intense dialogue with an Egyptian teacher; a cup of chai with a Tibetan refugee — we might share these encounters with dozens of friends, who pass them on. Some anecdotes even branch out through the Internet, adding to the popular wisdom about countries and cultures far removed from our own. A simple story about a Tehran shopkeeper — who presses a cassette tape of traditional Iranian music into the hands of an American visitor, refusing any payment — can counteract months of dehumanizing propaganda about the “axis of evil.”
How can we take the lessons of travel, and roll them over into positive action? Over the past few months, I’ve set out to explore these questions. The result has been the creation of an international online community called Ethical Traveler. I launched this Web site for everyone who has traveled — whether on a monthlong trek across the Himalayas or a three-day cruise around the Bahamas — and believes that travel has expanded their worldview. It’s for those of us whose journeys, long or short, have inspired deeper concerns for this planet and its people. Ultimately, it will become a forum through which travelers can join their voices, and take actions that make this world a more open and welcoming place.
The community is in its formative stages, but it’s growing fast. Travel and tourism is the largest industry on earth — and I’m confident that, someday, an alliance of open-eyed travelers will have at least as much power as an association of rifle owners. Meanwhile, keep your passports current, pull out your maps, and — as soon as possible — consider a vacation far from the security of the homeland. Those frequent-flyer miles will never be more valuable than they are right now.
Jeff Greenwalds latest book, "Future Perfect: How 'Star Trek' Conquered Planet Earth," was recently released in paperback by Penguin. More Jeff Greenwald.
Energy wars heat up
From Africa to South America, conflicts over waning resources are becoming more tense -- and dangerous
A member of the military stands guard near pump stations before a
ceremony in which oil operations at Heglig oilfield will resume in
Heglig, Sudan, May 2, 2012.
(Credit: Reuters/Mohamed Nureldin Abdallah) Conflict and intrigue over valuable energy supplies have been features of the international landscape for a long time. Major wars over oil have been fought every decade or so since World War I, and smaller engagements have erupted every few years; a flare-up or two in 2012, then, would be part of the normal scheme of things. Instead, what we are now seeing is a whole cluster of oil-related clashes stretching across the globe, involving a dozen or so countries, with more popping up all the time. Consider these flash-points as signals that we are entering an era of intensified conflict over energy.
Continue Reading CloseNYPD must spy on all Muslims to protect us from Iranian photographers
New York City's own constitutionally iffy intelligence agency justifies itself with fear-mongering
Ray Kelly (Credit: Reuters/Brendan McDermid) The NYPD is less a “police department” than a secretive and unaccountable international intelligence-gathering organization with a large minority-frisking division and the firepower of a mid-sized army. Lately they have been facing a bit of criticism for their style of intelligence-gathering, which seems to be done with more gusto than concern for civil liberties or… accuracy. Sometimes the NYPD’s muscular-but-stupid approach to spying gets them in trouble with the FBI. And when the organization that fights terror by recruiting shady weirdos to try to trick random Muslims into saying “jihad” into tape recorders says your practices are counterproductive and out of line, they are probably pretty counterproductive and out of line.
Continue Reading Close
Alex Pareene writes about politics for Salon and is the author of "The Rude Guide to Mitt." Email him at apareene@salon.com and follow him on Twitter @pareene More Alex Pareene.
Former Bush official warns against Iran attack
National Security Council advisor and Iraq hawk Stephen Hadley counsels diplomacy, not war
Stephen Hadley (Credit: AP/Alex Brandon) Another voice against war in Iran is heard and from perhaps an unexpected source. Former Bush administration National Security Advisor Stephen J. Hadley warned against an attack on the Islamic Republic yesterday. “If something needs to be done, it is not military action,” said Hadley. “There’s a wide spectrum between sheer diplomacy and military action.”
Hadley was an early and enthusiastic functionary in the war against Iraq. During the George H. W. Bush administration, he was a Pentagon aide to uber-hawk Paul Wolfowitz, and later served as a senior foreign policy advisor to George W. Bush’s presidential campaign. Hadley was instrumental in allowing the “Yellowcake Forgery” fabrication into Bush’s 2003 State of the Union address, a mistake for which he reportedly offered to resign. Taking over as national security advisor in 2005 from Condoleezza Rice, he was known for being on the relatively moderate spectrum of the Bush administration (well, at least when compared to Cheney and Rumsfeld). Upon leaving office, he formed a consulting shop with Rice, and he recently co-wrote a piece calling for negotiations with the Taliban.
Continue Reading CloseJordan Michael Smith writes about U.S. foreign policy for Salon. He has written for the New York Times, Boston Globe and Washington Post. More Jordan Michael Smith.
What Iran’s election results mean
The growing divide between the president and the Supreme Leader could be good news for the West
In front of a portrait of late Iranian leader Ayatollah Khomeini, former President Akbar Hashemi Rafsanjani casts his ballot for the parliamentary elections at a polling station in Tehran, Iran, Friday, March 2, 2012 (Credit: AP Photo/ISNA, Ruhollah Vahdati) BOSTON — It was no coincidence last week when Iran’s Supreme Religious leader, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, praised a 64 percent turnout for parliamentary elections at home as well as President Barack Obama’s words that dampened talk of war against Iran. The elections gave him a commanding authority at home and a freer hand to deal with foreign threats.
Continue Reading CloseNazila Fathi reported out of Iran for nearly two decades, most recently for The New York Times. In 2009, following the elections, she was forced to leave the country because of government threats against her. She was a Nieman Fellow at Harvard in 2010 and is currently a fellow at the Shorenstein Center on Press, Politics and Public Policy at the Harvard Kennedy School. More Nazila Fathi.
A Hollywood party, with a nervous look to Iran
Behind the scenes at the Academy Awards with the star of "A Separation"
Payman Maadi (right) in "A Separation" The 405, Los Angeles’ leading freeway, is under construction. Lanes suddenly close and then merge haphazardly into the one nuzzled next to it. Center dividers inch closer and closer into carpool lanes. And drivers – which in a city of waitresses, actresses and waitresses longing to be actresses, might be the most infamous population of all — drive erratically as a result. The drivers are erratic because the road has become erratic; the road has become erratic because the city is erratic.
Continue Reading CloseRod Bastanmehr is a freelance writer, born in San Francisco, with a focus on film, culture and politics. His writing has appeared in Nerve, Thought Catalog, Not Coming to a Theatre Near You and more. More Rod Bastanmehr.
Page 1 of 91 in Iran
