Iraq
Baghdad chronicles
In a city where porn, drunkenness and radical Islam are on the rise, savvy students who despise both Bush and Saddam are putting out Iraq's only independent newspaper.
Iraq’s only independent newspaper is run by high school and college students out of an alcove in the lobby of Baghdad’s Al Fanar Hotel. Working with a $5,000 grant from the nonprofit peace group Voices in the Wilderness, 14 unpaid writers, editors, photographers and publishers labored for a month to create the debut issue of Al-Muajaha, the Iraqi Witness, which hit the streets a week ago. In its pages, budding reporters and essayists examine the violent, chaotic but cautiously hopeful world being born around them, expressing outrage at the Americans even as they revel in their newfound freedom.
Newspapers have proliferated in postwar Iraq, but most are the organs of political parties. Al-Muajaha’s staff, though, treasure their autonomy. They learned journalism during the war, working as translators and fixers for the legions of foreign reporters who descended on Iraq. Some of them have been interview subjects as well, and they studied the way professionals found their angles and formulated their questions. Now they’re turning these new skills back on the Americans, demanding accountability from their would-be rulers.
Three thousand copies of the first issue have been printed (there will be 5,000 of the second), selling for 250 Iraqi dinars each, about 25 cents. There’s a single ad, bought by the father of one of the writers. But Al-Muajaha’s creators, who are also publishing online, have great ambitions for the paper. As a statement on the editorial page says, “We aim to help the world understand Iraq, and to help Iraq understand the world.”
Published in both Arabic and English, Al-Muajaha mirrors the conversations heard everywhere in Baghdad. Its three big subjects are security, Saddam’s crimes and America’s motives. The lead story is a first-person tale of being carjacked in a taxi near the Palestine Hotel. “For now I feel I’m not living in a city, but in a jungle of buildings and man-beasts,” writes Salaam Talib Al-Onaibi. Another piece profiles the Committee for Free Prisoners, an organization that has combed through Saddam’s vast prison files to try to provide families with information on disappeared loved ones. Inside, there’s a list of American companies awarded contracts in postwar Iraq, capsule bios of American officials involved in the reconstruction, and reprints of egregious quotes by people like Defense Secretary Donald Rumsfeld and ex-CIA chief James Woolsey. The kids who produce Al-Muajaha have been able to talk openly about their country and their lives for only a little more than a month, and they have no experience of a free press, but they have an intuitive ability to capture the mood of the streets in their two-color pages.
Of course, the mood on the streets is conflicted, and Al-Muajaha reflects the disoriented, ever-shifting view many Iraqis have toward their liberation/occupation. Amanj Husam Ferzali begins a series on the world’s dictators by saying, “It’s my first time, ever, to write in public, being shy to express my thoughts. I’m confused, trying to answer the question: what do the people want?”
It’s a question no one can answer right now. Radical Islam is ascendant in Baghdad, as are porn and liquor. People want the Americans to leave, and to put many more troops on the street. Waleed M. Rabi’a, a 19-year-old writer and editor for Al-Muajaha, fantasizes about the baroque tortures he’d like to inflict on Iraq’s deposed tyrant, and then muses, “Saddam Hussein was a dictator, but at least he knew how to lead the country.”
The estranged son of a privileged family, Rabi’a is the lead singer in a heavy metal band called Acrassicanda — Latin for Black Scorpion — and speaks flawless English. With his teen-heartthrob face and his bleak view of the world, Rabi’a is the kind of teenager Western journalists understand, which may be why he’s been interviewed so frequently by MTV, Der Spiegel, ABC and others. Last year, he was part of the documentary “Bridge to Baghdad,” in which a group of Iraqi students held a dialogue via satellite with a group of young Americans. During the war, Rabi’a put his familiarity with the media to work, hiring himself out as a translator for the London Independent, CNN and Radio France.
Rabi’a's not proud of the first “Bridge to Baghdad” (he has since taped a second, postwar episode), because he had to be so dishonest. He says that Houda Saleh Amash, the only woman among the 55 Iraqis most wanted by the Americans, sat right in front of him as he spoke. “I was really angry,” he says. “We had to pretend we were dumb. Either you’re going to answer the question, which is impossible because you’re going to lose your head, or pretend you’re dumb and you don’t understand the question and answer another question.”
Yet that show led to other exposure, and his experience with the media has helped him enormously as a neophyte journalist. “When you hang out with the press, you learn a lot of things,” he says. “Which side of the story to put the light on, how you can get information by asking the right kinds of questions.”
After the war, Rabi’a went to the Al Fanar, which sits in back of the journalist-overrun Palestine Hotel, to look for work with the media. There, he ran into Ramzi Kysia, a 34-year-old volunteer with Voices in the Wilderness, a Chicago-based nonprofit that deals exclusively with Iraq issues. Kysia said Voices was interested in helping to start a newspaper, and Rabi’a said, “I’m in, definitely!”
Voices in the Wilderness provides funding and Kysia helps the paper’s staff with English translation, but the direction of the paper is entirely up to the Iraqis who work on it. Rabi’a points out that editorial meetings are held in Arabic, which Kysia doesn’t speak. Sixteen-year-old Majid Jarrar, a friend of Rabi’a's, negotiated the paper’s contract with a Baghdad printing press. He also does most of the layout, takes pictures, and reports — in the first issue he had a story about Iraqi Palestinians evicted from their homes after the war, and now he’s working on a piece about the Free Iraqi Fighters, the militia organized by the Iraqi National Congress’s Ahmed Chalabi.
On Wednesday, Jarrar and Rabi’a headed out to report a story on the vices that have burst out into the open since Saddam’s fall. Baghdad’s dirty movie theaters once showed B-grade beach pictures, but now feature real nudity. Hardcore VCDs, once contraband, are sold openly in shops throughout the city. Public consumption of alcohol used to be illegal, but now men hawk bottles of liquor from roadside stalls.
Heading to the Roxy Theater, Rabi’a, who wears an Iron Maiden T-shirt and an HBO cap, asks the driver to play a gothic metal tape by a band called Moonspell. Jarrar, wearing an NBA hat and a Calvin Klein belt, objects — he wants to listen to the rock group Nickleback. Westernized as they seem, though, they’re worried about America corrupting their country. “Now even a 13-year-old child can buy a bottle of whiskey or rent a sex movie,” says Rabi’a, appalled. “I’m really anti-tradition,” adds Jarrar, “but if I had to choose between our real culture or a new culture coming from the West, I’d choose the real culture.”
At the theater, the two reporters seem surprisingly assured. In the lobby, Jarrar takes pictures of pictures of buxom women in lingerie, while Rabi’a makes notes on the men who stumble by. “Most of these people are taking drugs,” he says, adding that Valium and Xanax are popular. “All of them are drunk.”
After a few moments, a man slams Rabi’a's notebook shut and starts yelling at him, accusing reporters of ruining Iraq’s reputation. Rabi’a yells back, and soon a crowd has gathered. One onlooker says that no one would go to the porn theater if the coalition government turned the electricity back on, but without it, there’s nothing else to do. The yelling turns political as people scream out their dissatisfaction with the occupation.
Outside, Rabi’a says, “This is not the same Iraq we were living in.”
Al-Muajaha is a vehicle for them to make sense of the Iraq they’ve been thrust into. “When I read the newspapers in the market, they’re all crap,” says Jarrar. “You can’t find any independent newspapers.” Adds Rabi’a, “We just want our newspaper to be able to tell the truth.”
For now, the newspaper is their lives. School started three weeks ago, but teachers’ salaries haven’t been paid and classes run only from 8:30 until 10 a.m. Rabi’a has only shown up twice. Two weeks ago he left home and has been crashing at friends’ houses. Jarrar tries to go to classes four times a week.
Their real education is taking place in the city, where they’re covering the remaking of their world. For his story on the Free Iraqi Forces, Jarrar has been interviewing people in the INC compound, the intrigue-filled headquarters of the men vying to lead Iraq. A few weeks ago, he couldn’t even talk about Iraq’s leaders. “It’s strange, like I’m living in a dream.”
It’s something they say over and over again; there’s a sense of incredible unreality to everything that’s happening around them. “When I saw the statue fall on an Arab satellite channel, I thought, This is a dream, this isn’t true,” says Rabi’a. “When I realized Saddam Hussein was gone, I thought, We’re going to break the chains around our necks. I thought, I’m going to make a concert in the street and sing heavy metal all day.”
Now, as he runs around the ruined capital, that elation has evaporated. “We don’t trust any government,” Rabi’a says. “We don’t believe someone good is going to rule Iraq. The truth is, even if it was me who was going to run Iraq, I wouldn’t trust myself. We can’t trust anyone anymore.” A sad sentiment surely, but also the reason Rabi’a is no one’s propagandist.
Michelle Goldberg is a frequent contributor to Salon and the author of "Kingdom Coming: The Rise of Christian Nationalism" (WW Norton). More Michelle Goldberg.
Our real Iraq losses
We left their nation in turmoil and our own country entangled in an endless "national security" nightmare
A man, left, inspects his destroyed vehicle at the scene of a car bomb attack in Ramadi, 70 miles (115 kilometers) west of Baghdad, Iraq, Tuesday, March 20, 2012. Officials say attacks across Iraq have killed and wounded scores of people in a spate of violence that was dreaded in the days before Baghdad hosts the Arab world's top leaders. (AP Photo) (Credit: AP) People ask the question in various ways, sometimes hesitantly, often via a long digression, but my answer is always the same: no regrets.
In some 24 years of government service, I experienced my share of dissonance when it came to what was said in public and what the government did behind the public’s back. In most cases, the gap was filled with scared little men and women, and what was left unsaid just hid the mistakes and flaws of those anonymous functionaries.
What I saw while serving the State Department at a forward operating base in Iraq was, however, different. There, the space between what we were doing (the eye-watering waste and mismanagement), and what we were saying (the endless claims of success and progress), was filled with numb soldiers and devastated Iraqis, not scaredy-cat bureaucrats.
Continue Reading ClosePeter Van Buren spent a year in Iraq as a State Department Foreign Service Officer serving as Team Leader for two Provincial Reconstruction Teams (PRTs). Now in Washington, he writes about Iraq and the Middle East at his blog, We Meant Well. His book, We Meant Well: How I Helped Lose the Battle for the Hearts and Minds of the Iraqi People (The American Empire Project, Metropolitan Books), will be published this September. More Peter Van Buren.
Shaima Alawadi’s murder: Hate crime or honor killing?
The murder of an Iraqi immigrant in California has stirred rumors of both a hate crime and an honor killing
Fatima Alhimidi weeps over her mother Shaima Alawadi's coffin as it arrives in Najaf, Iraq. (Credit: AP/Alaa al-Marjani) EL CAJON, Calif. – On March 21, an unknown assailant shattered Shaima Alawadi’s skull with a tire-iron-like weapon in the living room of her home. An Iraqi immigrant and mother of five, Alawadi was found by her 17-year-old daughter, Fatima, who said she was “drowned in her own blood.” Alawadi was rushed to the hospital, still alive, but she was soon taken off life support and died March 24. It was, by all accounts, a heinous crime. But was it a hate crime?
After her mother’s death, Fatima said she found “a letter next to her head saying, ‘Go back to your country, you terrorist.’” The accusation sparked outrage and brought national media attention to the murder. And yet, within days, publicity-craving Islamophobes Pamela Geller and Robert Spencer were pushing an alternative motive: that Alawadi’s death was, in fact, an “honor killing.” Geller crowed, “I surmised that the murder of Shaima Alawadi appeared to be Islamic, rooted in Islamic teachings and culture …”
Continue Reading CloseArun Gupta, a New York writer and co-founder of Occupy the Wall Street Journal, covers the Occupy movement for Salon. More Arun Gupta.
In Iraq and on “The Wire,” it’s all acting for Benjamin Busch
In a lyrical memoir, a novelist's son discusses his strange path into war -- and David Simon's TV masterpiece
Benjamin Busch Benjamin Busch’s “Dust to Dust” is a remarkable book — part military memoir, part childhood reminiscence, and also an effort to explain his relationship with his father, the celebrated novelist Frederick Busch.
And yet it is also more than all of those things. Busch is filled with complicated and fascinating contradictions. Yes, he’s the son of a famously introspective and domestic writer, who grew up in rural New York obsessed with toy guns and building massive military forts. But he studied visual arts at Vassar, where he confused everyone by joining the Marine reserves — especially his commanders, when he accidentally announced himself in a roll call as part of the “Vassar infantry.”
Continue Reading CloseDavid Daley is the senior culture editor of Salon. More David Daley.
Iraq war booster urges Syria intervention
Kanan Mikaya insists we must save a besieged people, but that's what he said about Iraq in 2003. Should we listen?
Kanan Makiya (Credit: AP/Manish Swarup) Outside of the fraudulent Ahmed Chalabi, Kanan Makiya was the Iraqi exile most influential in driving America to war with Iraq in 2003. His 1989 book “Republic of Fear” was arguably the greatest effort to chronicle and categorize the horror of Saddam Hussein’s Iraq. His 1993 work “Cruelty and Silence” was a devastating broadside aimed at the Arab intelligentsia’s refusal to admit the horrors of Saddam. Makiya’s unique credibility and eloquence (he is now a professor at Brandeis University) made him a singularly powerful voice among those who believed it was a moral imperative to overthrow Saddam and democratize Iraq. He met with President George W. Bush and spoke at the right-wing American Enterprise Institute to make his case, promising that American troops would be greeted as liberators. Peter Beinart, in his final column as editor of the New Republic, wrote in regret that he supported the war primarily “because Kanan Makiya did.”
Continue Reading CloseJordan Michael Smith writes about U.S. foreign policy for Salon. He has written for the New York Times, Boston Globe and Washington Post. More Jordan Michael Smith.
Iraq vets on the road to recovery
Sometimes the best treatment for war wounds is a long bike ride
On the road to recovery Last September, I was in the saddle of my bicycle somewhere in the middle of Pennsylvania. Dark green farms materialized from the mist as one hill rolled into another. Somewhere out here, United Airlines Flight 93 crashed.
In about a day, I would be at the exact place where the plane went down, by the sides of dozens of troops who were injured in the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq. I was chronicling a solemn moment on the 10thanniversary of the 9/11 attacks for “Recovering,” the documentary film I’m directing about troops who have turned to an unlikely recreation, bicycling, to heal from wounds such as post-traumatic stress disorder and lost limbs.
Continue Reading CloseMichael de Yoanna is a journalist and documentary filmmaker who won an Edward R. Murrow award for investigative radio journalism in 2011. You can view his past work at Salon here, visit his personal website here, and follow him on Twitter @mdy1. More Michael de Yoanna.
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