Environment
Destination: Arizona
Look beyond the sprawl and congestion of this desert state with books from Wallace Stegner, Geronimo and Barbara Kingsolver -- and an unlikely guide to the Grand Canyon.
There are just under 6 million people living in Arizona. This is about 5 and a half million too many. One need only visit polluted, overcrowded Phoenix or the development-scarred red mountains surrounding Sedona to understand that the 48th state is being overrun by a herd of Homo sapiens, many of whom are imposing the aesthetic and cultural sensibilities of an upper Midwestern suburb upon a fragile desert landscape. I got to know, love and hate Arizona while working on my 1992 novel “Thirst,” which deals with a son’s search for an alcoholic father’s secret history during an epic drought in Phoenix. Since then, the state has continued to “develop” at an alarming rate. Travelers would be advised to bring along books that will allow them to see beyond the golf courses, mini-malls and three-car garages. Properly informed, you can still catch glimpses of one of the nation’s most mysterious, beautiful and ghost-haunted regions — before it vanishes completely.
A perfect place to start would be Marc Reisner’s magnificent 1986 book “Cadillac Desert: The American West and Its Disappearing Water.” At once a scholarly history and an impassioned piece of muckraking, Reisner’s book charts how the region, notably the ersatz-oasis of Phoenix and its surrounding agribusiness spreads, came to rely upon shortsighted water policies that are often little more than theft, particularly from Mexico, where the once-mighty Colorado River has been reduced to a trickle. One of the book’s many ironies is its observation that this politically conservative, supposedly self-reliant region owes its prosperity to big government programs. Also memorable is Reisner’s description of the creation of the Lake Powell reservoir, which was achieved by submerging one of the most beautiful spots on the planet, the Glen Canyon.
The great Western writer Wallace Stegner’s brief essay collection “The American West as Living Space” (1988) provides a quieter, but equally memorable, look at the region’s resonant myths and fragile ecosystem. Stegner’s theme is the folly of man’s attempt to dominate the desert; to dam up its rampaging rivers and pump precious water from its aquifers to support an alien lifestyle. As he writes in the chapter “Living Dry,” the West has been “misinterpreted and mistreated because, coming to it from earlier frontiers where conditions were not unlike those of northern Europe, Anglo-Americans found it different, daunting, exhilarating, dangerous, and unpredictable, and entered it carrying habits that were often inappropriate and expectations that were surely excessive.”
More Arizona lore is on offer in Alex Shoumatoff’s idiosyncratic and informative “Legends of the American Desert” (1997), a comprehensive and well-written collection that covers just about every iconic site in Arizona, from Tombstone to Route 66; from the vast Navajo reservation in the state’s northeast to the Biosphere 2 dome outside of Tucson. He is particularly good at equating Arizona’s wild frontier past with its untamed contemporary reality. He claims, with ample justification, that “after tourism, land fraud is the number two industry in the state.”
Shoumatoff’s extensive bibliography is also the perfect jumping off point for more detailed journeys into the state’s history, legends and future. “Geronimo: His Own Story,” the 1906 autobiography of the great Apache leader, is rich with details of a once-ascendant Native American culture’s legends and military tactics. One reads it with a sense of loss for the Gila River paradise in which the great warrior was raised: “This range was our fatherland; among the mountains our wigwams were hidden; the scattered valleys contained our fields; the boundless prairies, stretching away on every side, were our pastures; the rocky caverns were our burying places.” Another valuable study of native life is David Roberts’ “In Search of the Old Ones” (1996), a penetrating look at the lost civilization of the Anasazi, who disappeared more or less without a trace from their remarkable cliff dwellings in northern and central Arizona 700 years ago. Their vanishing was most likely due to their hubristic efforts to live in an environment that could not sustain them — something the state’s contemporary suburb-dwellers might want to think about.
Upon contemplating all that has been lost in Arizona and the grim prospects for its future, the traveler might feel tempted to hurl himself into its most famous tourist attraction. If so, he would be in good company, as detailed in Thomas M. Myers’ and Michael P. Ghiglieri’s creepy 2001 survey “Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon.” It turns out that the main cause of death is ignoring warning signs — a fitting lesson for humankind’s attitude toward the entire region.
Arizona’s parched landscape has also provided fertile ground for fiction. Tony Hillerman’s Navajo crime mystery “Coyote Waits” (1990) takes place in the state’s remote Four Corners border region and combines a cultural anthropologist’s broad scope with a truly suspenseful narrative. That area is also the setting for Edward Abbey’s 1975 cult classic “The Monkey Wrench Gang,” which details the often bumbling attempts of a ragtag crew of eco warriors to stop construction of a dam. Barbara Kingsolver’s “Animal Dreams” (1997) is far better than her perennial book group favorite “The Bean Trees.” Set in the fictional small town of Grace, Ariz., her story of a daughter’s return to look after an ailing father deals, well, gracefully with the topics of ecological degradation and Native American tradition.
The greatest poet of Arizona’s unique landscape, however, is the film director John Ford, whose images of Monument Valley capture what is perhaps the state’s most unforgettable panorama. The noted film historian Edward Buscombe’s studies of Ford’s two greatest films, “Stagecoach” and “The Searchers,” provide fascinating details of his work in what remains, despite our best efforts to strike it down, nature’s greatest soundstage.
Stephen Amidon is currently at work on the screenplay for his most recent novel, "Human Capital." More Stephen Amidon.
Romney flips on coal
The GOP nominee attacked Obama over coal on Tuesday, but he once wanted greater regulation
Mitt Romney in Craig, Colo., on Tuesday. (Credit: AP) Mitt Romney’s campaign swung through the coal town of Craig, Colorado, today so that the candidate could slam President Obama for supposedly killing the coal industry, even though Romney pursued his own regulations against coal companies as governor of Massachusetts.
“He’s going after energy. He’s made it harder to get coal out of the ground,” Romney said. “I’m not going to forget communities like this across the country that are hurting right now under this president.”
Continue Reading CloseAlex Seitz-Wald is Salon's political reporter. Email him at aseitz-wald@salon.com, and follow him on Twitter @aseitzwald. More Alex Seitz-Wald.
Farmers’ sand-frac nightmare
Some parts of rural America are being ruined by an unstoppable new mining industry -- and it's spreading
Frac sand piles up at a processing plant in Chippewa Falls, Wis. (Credit: AP/Steve Karnowski) If the world can be seen in a grain of sand, watch out. As Wisconsinites are learning, there’s money (and misery) in sand — and if you’ve got the right kind, an oil company may soon be at your doorstep.
March in Wisconsin used to mean snow on the ground, temperatures so cold that farmers worried about their cows freezing to death. But as I traveled around rural townships and villages in early March to interview people about frac-sand mining, a little-known cousin of hydraulic fracturing or “fracking,” daytime temperatures soared to nearly 80 degrees — bizarre weather that seemed to be sending a meteorological message.
Continue Reading CloseWorse than Keystone
Environmentalists are focused oil and gas, but a bigger carbon disaster may be brewing in the Pacific Northwest
A coal mine owned by Arch Coal Co. (Credit: AP/Matthew Brown) Coal is without question our dirtiest fuel source: When burned, it dumps toxins like mercury and nitrogen oxides into the air and packs an outsize punch when it comes to carbon emissions. Since America has a lot of it, though, we’ve tended to use a lot: Historically, around half our electricity has been generated by coal combustion plants. But as a result of sustained anti-coal activism, low prices for natural gas, and new EPA regulations on power plant emissions, Americans are using a lot less coal than we used to, and the future of the sooty stuff in this country is looking dim. So the U.S. coal industry is pinning its hopes on China. While historically most of our exported coal has gone to Europe, U.S. exports to China increased 176 percent between 2009 and 2010, and that number is likely to keep rising as the Asian market for coal continues to expand. The prospect of shipping coal across the Pacific is even more appealing considering that Western states like Wyoming and Montana have vast coal reserves in the Powder River Basin, one of the largest coal deposits in the world.
Continue Reading CloseAlyssa Battistoni writes about the environment and politics from Seattle. More Alyssa Battistoni.
Is it ethical to drive stick?
More drivers are buying manual transmissions -- a boon for auto sentimentalists but bad news for the environment
(Credit: cristapper via Shutterstock) Ever since I first watched my dad drive his chocolate brown Datsun 280 ZX back in the early 1980s, I’ve been inculcated to believe that driving — true driving — can only be performed with a stick shift. From that childhood experience, I came to see the manual transmission as a birthright passed down from my grandfather, to my father, and eventually to me via a series of tense, stall-filled lessons when I turned 16. In my case, after ripping apart the transmission one too many times, my dad went barking drill sergeant on me, eventually teaching me that a stick requires a special kind of focus, and that I needed to ease up more slowly on the clutch in order to get into first gear on those damn inclines. Through the experience, I learned to consider my stick-shifting skill a special talent with transcendent value.
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David Sirota is a best-selling author of the new book "Back to Our Future: How the 1980s Explain the World We Live In Now." He hosts the morning show on AM760 in Colorado. E-mail him at ds@davidsirota.com, follow him on Twitter @davidsirota or visit his website at www.davidsirota.com. More David Sirota.
An eco-pioneer’s final words
The visionary author of "Ecotopia," who died in April, warns of dark times ahead, but sees a path through the decay
To all brothers and sisters who hold the dream in their hearts of a future world in which humans and all other beings live in harmony and mutual support — a world of sustainability, stability, and confidence. A world something like the one I described, so long ago, in “Ecotopia” and “Ecotopia Emerging.”
As I survey my life, which is coming near its end, I want to set down a few thoughts that might be useful to those coming after. It will soon be time for me to give back to Gaia the nutrients that I have used during a long, busy and happy life. I am not bitter or resentful at the approaching end; I have been one of the extraordinarily lucky ones. So it behooves me here to gather together some thoughts and attitudes that may prove useful in the dark times we are facing: a century or more of exceedingly difficult times.
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