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Tuesday, Apr 1, 2008 11:08 AM UTC2008-04-01T11:08:00Zl, M j, Y g:i A T

In memory of Gordon Ramsay

The host of "Hell's Kitchen" is a good chef, lost beneath his own shtick.

In memory of Gordon Ramsay

Let’s make our purpose clear from the start: This is an elegy for the lost, under-lamented British chef Gordon Ramsay. A paean to the real Ramsay, the chef behind the facade. An ode to the Ramsay who isn’t a total dick.

The new season of Fox’s reality show “Hell’s Kitchen,” starring Ramsay, kicks off Tuesday night. It’s a show that seems deliberately designed to waste Ramsay’s considerable talents both as a chef and as a television personality by having him send inexperienced, talentless cooks through a particularly dull meat grinder. Ramsay and Fox give these poor saps simple kitchen tasks that are obviously way above their skill level, presumably in the hope they’ll fail. And then, joy of joys, Ramsay gets to turn insincerely red-faced and yell. Last season, the producers brought on a particularly tragic character — a fat, slightly dumb man who, nice as he seemed, was clearly not going to survive — who didn’t make it through the first episode before breaking down in tears. It was a good moment for no one. (That man would later be hospitalized, the second hospitalization in two seasons.) The victims — er, contestants — in “Hell’s Kitchen” are just cannon fodder for Ramsay’s temper tantrums, proof that American television sure does know how to destroy everything good and pure.

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Alex Koppelman is a staff writer for Salon.  More Alex Koppelman

Wednesday, Sep 29, 2010 3:14 PM UTC2010-09-29T15:14:00Zl, M j, Y g:i A T

Did chef Gordon Ramsay drive a man to suicide?

Joseph Cerniglia, a contestant on "Kitchen Nightmares," jumped to his death last week. But don't blame reality TV

Gordon Ramsay (left) and Joseph Cerniglia on "Kitchen Nightmares"

Gordon Ramsay (left) and Joseph Cerniglia on "Kitchen Nightmares"

Has Gordon Ramsay become the leading cause of death in the restaurant industry? On Friday, 39-year-old restaurateur Joseph Cerniglia, who appeared on the celebrity chef’s justifiably named “Kitchen Nightmares” three years ago, leapt to his death off the George Washington Bridge. Cerniglia was the second veteran of a Ramsay show to commit suicide; in 2007, Texan chef Rachel Brown  shot herself to death at her family home, one year after competing on Ramsay’s “Hell’s Kitchen.”

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Mary Elizabeth Williams

Mary Elizabeth Williams is a staff writer for Salon and the author of "Gimme Shelter: My Three Years Searching for the American Dream." Follow her on Twitter: @embeedubMore Mary Elizabeth Williams

Wednesday, Jun 9, 2010 12:10 PM UTC2010-06-09T12:10:00Zl, M j, Y g:i A T

“Hell’s Kitchen” recap: Eggs, people!

Salvatore can't remember the menu, Andrew storms off the show, and Mikey gets booted

It started off just swell, with Andrew the Farmer reminding us he raises and butchers his own animals. He also likes to eat them raw, as he showed us last week when he served Chef Ramsay steak tartare. Ramsay thought it was disgusting however, so we’re not sure if Andrew’s cooking skills are up to par. Seriously, is being able to grow your own meat mean you can make it edible too? I like to raise goldfish, but I’m not going to serve them to anyone.

And so we begin with the obligatory recap/rehash of last week’s episode, which leaves us dying for more, which I think is the point. This time around I even managed to get everyone’s names. This isn’t a high priority for understanding the show, but nice nonetheless.

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Monique Colver is currently working on a memoir about her husband's struggles with mental illness.  More Monique Colver

Wednesday, Jun 2, 2010 7:01 PM UTC2010-06-02T19:01:00Zl, M j, Y g:i A T

“Hell’s Kitchen” screams back to life

A private chef is the first to go in the new season of questionable cooking and Gordon Ramsay's hysterical yelling

Chef Gordon Ramsay calls out the orders during the first dinner service on Tuesday night's "Hell's Kitchen."

Chef Gordon Ramsay calls out the orders during the first dinner service on Tuesday night's "Hell's Kitchen."

“Hell’s Kitchen” returns with a familiar promise: “This is the one you’ve been waiting for.”

Wasn’t that what they said last year? I know they need to keep outdoing themselves in order to keep our interest — after all, the public is fickle and easily displeased, and we want more drama, more surprises, more hysterical cooking! — but I’ll believe it when I see it. Not that I’m expecting to be disappointed. I’m sure there will be yelling this season, lots of it, and bad cooking, and maybe even some good cooking from the chef wannabes, all of them eager to prove that, despite their limited experience, they can cut the mustard.

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Monique Colver is currently working on a memoir about her husband's struggles with mental illness.  More Monique Colver

Sunday, Apr 6, 2008 12:00 PM UTC2008-04-06T12:00:00Zl, M j, Y g:i A T

I Like to Watch

The road to "Hell's Kitchen" is paved with chain-smoking line cooks, while "Top Chef's" top-shelf gastronomists are all foam and no flamb

I Like to Watch

In prehistoric times — you know, a few hours after God divided the land from the seas — the world was our oyster. And by “our” I mean carbon-based life forms, of course. Who would rule these freshly minted wilds? Would giant amoebas tromp out of the seas on their pseudopods and slurp pineapples from the trees? Would snakes sprout wings and shoot off spores? Would monkeys learn to walk on two legs and make tacos and purchase long-term disability insurance?

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Heather Havrilesky is Salon's TV critic and author of the rabbit blog. Her memoir, "Disaster Preparedness," published in 2010.   More Heather Havrilesky

Tuesday, Mar 27, 2007 11:32 AM UTC2007-03-27T11:32:00Zl, M j, Y g:i A T

Tastes like hell

For Mitch Omer, the brilliant -- and bipolar -- chef behind the hit Minneapolis restaurant Hell's Kitchen, food has been both a dark obsession and a lifesaving blessing.

Tastes like hell

On the southwest side of downtown Minneapolis sits an old, smoke-darkened brick building. It’s home to an appliance mart, a nail salon, a violin repair shop, and a long alley-shaped restaurant identified only by a sign that reads: Hell’s Kitchen. Just blocks from the city’s busy convention center, somehow the corner manages to look deserted even on a sunny Sunday afternoon.

Inside Hell, however, it’s another story.

The blood-red walls are hung with black fixtures and artwork by Ralph Steadman, whose leering skeletons and cartoon crows are like the “Bloom County” of the underworld. Behind the maitre d’ station, handing out pagers, stands a tall, dark Elvira wearing Goth makeup — whiteface, inch-thick eyeliner, some kind of bolt through her lip — and a silk kimono with puffy Shrek slippers. She’s scowling. The room is mobbed, she’s running out of waiting space, and the post-church crowd is getting mean.

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Ann Bauer is a regular contributor to Salon and co-author of the recently released "Damn Good Food: 157 Recipes from Hell's Kitchen".   More Ann Bauer

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