Food technology
Web food fight: Food52.com vs. Cook’s Illustrated
Culinary pros argue about what produces the best recipe: rigorous tests or consensus of multiple cooks
Jack Bishop, editorial director at America's Test Kitchen in Brookline, MA, is seen at the kitchen April 22, 2010. America's Test Kitchen is where every day a near army of professional chefs test, test, then re-test recipes to arrive at the best possible result. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)(Credit: AP) Everyone loves a good food fight. And there’s a sizzler going on right now between the culinary pros at Cook’s Illustrated magazine and the website Food52.com, an online community for home cooks.
At issue: what produces the better recipe — rigorous professional test kitchen protocols or the online consensus of multiple cooks.
It began last fall, when Cook’s founder Christopher Kimball threw down the oven mitt with a blog post saying a test kitchen is likely to produce a better recipe and declaring, “I am willing to put my money, and my reputation, where my big mouth is.”
Food52, which was started by Merrill Stubbs and Amanda Hesser, cookbook author and former food writer for The New York Times, took up the challenge and the contest took shape.
Each side was to come up with two recipes, one for chewy sugar cookies, one for roasted pork shoulder. The results from each side will be posted on the online magazine Slate, then put to a public vote.
At Cook’s, editorial director Jack Bishop thinks portraying the contest as a battle of old-line vs. online is oversimplifying. He says Cook’s gets plenty of reader feedback on its recipes.
At Food52 the workflow is reversed. Hesser and Stubbs test recipes readers submit, then use their experience to select the best.
Stubbs, a veteran food writer who trained at the Cordon Bleu and also, as it happens, interned at the Cook’s test kitchen, notes home cooks are the original “old guard” of cooking. She sees Cook’s as “more about consistency and they’ve said that to us directly,” she said in an interview Tuesday.
“That’s something they’re proud of, and they should be,” she said. “We’re really interested in the stories behind the recipes, how the recipes come to be, why they come to be and the people behind them.”
One of the recipes submitted for sugar cookies to Food52 (not a finalist) described the cookie dough as being ready when it looked like freshly scooped ice cream, Hesser said. “That is the kind of thing you get from real people cooking in their own kitchen.”
An introduction to the contest will be posted on Slate on May 5. Readers will then have two weeks to test the final recipes from both sides. Results from the voting that follows are expected later in the month, said Juliet Lapidos, food editor at Slate.
As the showdown approached, Bishop was hopeful. “I like our recipes quite a lot, but you never know. That’s the beauty of an election.”
Stubbs and Hesser thought it was likely Cook’s, with its larger audience, would win, though Hesser added, “We’re competitive. We’d like to win.”
The Cook’s testing process is, to say the least, thorough.
A typical recipe begins with research that leads to a folder of 50 to 100 recipes, which then are boiled down to a composite. That’s when work begins at the test kitchen, a 2,500-square foot facility just outside Boston that is home to the magazine’s more than three dozen full-time cooks and product testers.
Each ingredient and method of the recipe is tested and tinkered with over a period of a month or more. When a final recipe has been developed, it then is vetted by a professional tester. It also goes out to 2,000 volunteer testers, of whom about 100 will make the recipe and fill out an online questionnaire. Unless there’s an 80 percent approval rating, it’s back to the mixing bowl.
For the contest, Cook’s came up with a chai spiced sugar cookie that Bishop says “is pretty creative.” It’s recognizable, “but it isn’t your grandmother’s sugar cookie.”
At Food52, regular contests are held. Upcoming recipe themes are announced on Fridays, submissions are reviewed and then Stubbs and Hesser taste their favorites among the submissions and put two up for vote with the winner slated for an upcoming Food52 cookbook.
Reaction to the contest has been as varied as you would expect.
Cook’s reader David Holstrom thinks the contest is pointless.
“Who cares?” he said, predicting that neither side will be swayed regardless of the outcome.
Holstrom, president of Guy du Vin, a Portland, Ore.-based online wine retailer and consulting company, said it’s possible to get good results from recipes produced by either methodology, “but my experience is I tend to get a more reliable end result from Cook’s Illustrated or something in that mold.”
The problem with blogged recipes, in Holstrom’s view, is it’s hard to know whether they come from a talented or trained chef, or are simply the musings of someone who is a disaster in the kitchen.
Emily Nunn, a food writer in Chicago who is a fan of Food52 and has submitted recipes to the site, uses Cook’s Illustrated cookbooks, but thinks “there’s something qualitatively different about what’s going on at Food52.”
With something like a Cook’s recipe it’s been decided that there’s one way to make a dish. Food52 recipes, on the other hand, “have a history. You learn about the people who are submitting them, and you understand what kind of a chef Mrs. Wheelbarrow is. I kind of know these people now.”
What Nunn finds most appealing about Food52 is its ability to engage and inspire. The message to readers, to her mind: “You can try to make the supposedly perfect beef stew, you can learn how to make the perfect layer cake, but you can also make beautiful food that reflects something richer than just formal training.”
How sex, bombs and burgers shaped our world
From Skype to robotics, our basest instincts have given us our greatest innovations. An expert explains why
(Credit: Olinchuck and Anetlanda via Shutterstock/Wikipedia) Our lives today are more defined by technology than ever before. Thanks to Skype and Google, we can video chat with our family from across the planet. We have robots to clean our floors and satellite TV that allows us to watch anything we want, whenever we want it. We can reheat food at the touch of a button. But without our basest instincts — our most violent and libidinous tendencies — none of this would be possible. Indeed, if Canadian tech journalist Peter Nowak is to be believed, the key drivers of 20th-century progress were bloodlust, gluttony and our desire to get laid.
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Thomas Rogers is Salon's Arts Editor. More Thomas Rogers.
Toys that really cooked
Turns out you can create a whole dinner menu based on foods made by toys. So we did. Bon appetit!
With the sad-making news last week that the Easy-Bake Oven as we know it will be going to the Great Incinerator in the Sky, we here at Salon Food started reminiscing over our own toy food memories. There were the Easy-Bake knockoff Chuck E. Cheese pizza ovens, there were the heartbreakingly dear Snoopy Sno Cones, there were the furiously lame Queasy-Bake Cookerator Dip n’ Drool Dog Bones.
It wasn’t long, then, before Aviva Shen, editorial fellow extraordinaire, realized that you could put together a whole menu of toy-made foods: “Basically,” she said, looking at dozens of Easy-Bake bootlegs, including one that grilled hamburgers, “if a child had to survive on toy oven food alone, they could do it … though they would quickly develop diabetes.”
Bah! A small price to pay for self-reliance! And probably no more dangerous than giving hormone-charged 17-year-olds keys to thousands of pounds of rocketing steel. (Probably.) So we scoured history to find the finest play-date victuals. Please, sit back and enjoy our menu of toy-made foods.
Francis Lam is Features Editor at Gilt Taste, provides color commentary for the Cooking Channel show Food(ography), and tweets at @francis_lam. More Francis Lam.
Lawsuit to Taco Bell: Where’s the beef?
Attorney in class action lawsuit says the chain restaurant's "meat mixture" contains less than 35 percent beef
An Alabama law firm claims in a lawsuit that Taco Bell is using false advertising when it refers to using “seasoned ground beef” or “seasoned beef” in its products.
The meat mixture sold by Taco Bell restaurants contains binders and extenders and does not meet the minimum requirements set by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to be labeled as “beef,” according to the legal complaint.
The class-action lawsuit was filed Friday in federal court in the Central District of California by the Montgomery law firm Beasley, Allen, Crow, Methvin, Portis & Miles.
Continue Reading CloseThe photo making people rethink chicken nuggets
A viral image is giving people the heebie-jeebies, but what's so gross about "mechanically separated meat"?
A photo circulating the Internet, claimed to be of mechanically separated chicken. That low groan you’ve been hearing is the sound of the entire Internet getting nauseated from the photo above, which is flying high on its second or third tour of viral-land. “Folks, this is mechanically separated chicken,” the site Fooducate says by way of introduction, before explaining that it’s a product of a charming process known as “advanced meat recovery,” before advancing the widely believed notion that this is the stuff from whence my (formerly) beloved Chicken McNuggets come.
Continue Reading CloseFrancis Lam is Features Editor at Gilt Taste, provides color commentary for the Cooking Channel show Food(ography), and tweets at @francis_lam. More Francis Lam.
The dumbest kitchen gadgets ever
From a pizza-cutter fork to a ride-on beer cooler scooter, a collection for the truly lazy and endlessly gullible
Growing up, one of my best friends had an uncle who was in the infomercial business, and his home was a literal warehouse of “As Seen on TV” specials. So, to impress me with its pointlessness, a product has to be truly special. It has to seek to satisfy a need so unneeded, a laziness so lonely in its lethargy, or a hunger so base that no one has ever bothered to make something for it. It has to be for the truly, madly, deeply gullible.
And yet, inspired but a recent chance encounter with a personal collector of such things, a little bit of digging finds the food world rife with genius-level inanity, from the fork-cum-pizza-cutter to the Motorized Ice Cream Cone. Here, then, are a few of our favorites. And no, we don’t own any of them. Yet.
Francis Lam is Features Editor at Gilt Taste, provides color commentary for the Cooking Channel show Food(ography), and tweets at @francis_lam. More Francis Lam.
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