Life stories
Will Wi-Fi ruin Mount Everest?
Broadband arrives on the world's tallest mountain. But having hiked it, I worry the magic will vanish
When I began my career as a travel journalist in the 1980s, there was lots of talk about “remoteness.” This was what many travelers were looking for: places so hard to get to, and so different from the world we knew, that their very existence seemed almost miraculous.
Today, the value has shifted. What we look for now is connectedness: the opportunity to check our e-mail, upload video clips and chat on Skype — even if we happen to be on the Khumbu Icefall, 18,000 feet high in the Nepal Himalaya.
Last week, a network of eight 3G base stations began operating along the route to Mount Everest, in Sagarmatha National Park. They were installed by Ncell, a Nepali telecom firm. The news didn’t surprise me. But I felt that, irreversibly, another blow had been struck against magic.
Access to the Internet is starting to seem like a human right, so let me offer a disclaimer. There is no rational downside to the arrival of broadband on the flanks of Everest. I’m not a Luddite, and would never suggest that developing nations should be denied, for any reason, the global access that technology can provide. This 3G network will undoubtedly save lives — not only by providing weather information and support to Everest climbers and trekkers, but as an alert system for the nearby villages threatened by flash floods from Glacial Lake Overflow (GLOF), another peril caused by global warming.
It’s a good thing. So why did the news make me feel like Robert Conway in “Lost Horizon,” looking back on a land to which I can never return?
During my earliest visit to Nepal in 1979, phoning home even from Kathmandu was an adventure. I’d bike to the Telecommunications Office at 2 a.m. (mid-afternoon in New York), fill out a form, and wait hours for my trunk call to go through. The costly result was often a busy signal — or a barely audible connection. The most reliable means of communication was “snail mail”: a metaphor that, with three weeks of lag time between a letter and its response, seemed literally true.
Even this much contact was a marvel, compared to the situation in the mountains. When I first trekked the Everest route, in October 1983, it felt as though I’d entered a world completely detached from the familiar. After a harrowing flight to the tiny airstrip at Lukla, the 10-day hike to Base Camp (with an elevation gain of more than 8,000 vertical feet) began. Immersion in the Sherpa Buddhist lifestyle was inescapable, and transformative. Phone calls were impossible. Even writing a postcard was like putting a message in a bottle, and tossing it out to sea.
None of this seemed like an inconvenience. Though there were bouts of homesickness, and the occasional longing for new music and old friends, it was exhilarating to have entered such an isolated realm. This, actually, was the point. Travelers embarked on our journeys to Everest or the Annapurnas aware that it would be a full-body experience — an equation that included our brains.
As a result, trekking in the Himalaya never felt like sightseeing. It was a commitment to the here and now, demanding full-time engagement with both Nepalis and fellow travelers. There were infinite opportunities to forge new friendships, experience Sherpa Buddhist culture, or enjoy exquisite solitude. By day, you could walk alone or with companions; at night, the lodges flickered with candles and butter lamps. Out came the maps, backgammon sets and tattered journals. Tales of avalanches and Yeti sightings were shared, along with cups of the dizzying local rakshi.
During my most recent trek to Everest region in 2008, it was clear that the area was changing. Though the mountains looked the same, they felt less like a world apart. For one thing, it was a lot more crowded; an estimated 15,000 trekkers shared the narrow trails. Cellphones were already in use between the main villages, and the isolating aspects of technology were taking hold. Sherpa guides and sinewy porters marched up the steep mountain grades with telltale white headphone cords snaking beneath their parka collars, lost in the private soundtracks of their MP3 files.
Getting online was a different story. There were only a handful of cybercafes along the trekking route — the highest of which was at Everest Base Camp itself, at 17,500 feet — with Internet access via satellite. Connections were sluggish; it often took Gmail more than five minutes to load. Sitting in a cozy inn, immersed in conversation, was far more seductive than surfing the Web.
The arrival of 3G will change all that — and not just how quickly trekkers can upload their photos to Flickr, keep tabs on their investments, or stream the latest episode of “Mad Men.” Wireless broadband, barely imaginable even 25 years ago, will change the way future travelers and locals interact in the world’s highest mountains.
For the Sherpas of Sagarmatha, of course, it may well seem that one kind of magic has simply been traded for another. Broadband on Everest! What next? If the Yeti buys an iPad, he might even decide to “friend” Bigfoot on Facebook.
For the rest of us, this constant connectedness may have a bittersweet aftertaste. My recent trek into the Himalaya was a reminder of the pleasures of remoteness. It was a joy to escape from the hamster wheel of distractions, and immerse myself in the expanded moment of real time. Because being connected — really connected, with the place you’re in and the people you’re with — requires disconnecting, at least temporarily, from everywhere else.
We are far past the time when we can expect to a find a Shangri-la, anywhere, beyond the reach of the Internet. But as the world races toward connectivity, travelers might stop to consider why we travel in the first place, and which connections we really want to make.
Jeff Greenwald’s new book is “Snake Lake,” a memoir set in Kathmandu during Nepal’s 1990 “People Power” uprising.
Jeff Greenwalds latest book, "Future Perfect: How 'Star Trek' Conquered Planet Earth," was recently released in paperback by Penguin. More Jeff Greenwald.
How to stop the bleeding
A year after Chris died, I was still shocked by how little I knew about being in combat zones. It was time to learn
The author with his friend Chris Hondros, right, who died in Libya in 2011. (Credit: Nicole Tung) A tourniquet is a simple tool, but I found it practically impossible to deal with when I needed it the most. Slickened with blood, the inch-wide Velcro-backed webbing slid through my gloved hands like a wet snake when I tried to pull it tight. In an adrenaline panic fueled by the sound of gunfire and explosions, I hadn’t noticed that it had twisted under Darryl’s heavily bleeding leg, giving the Velcro nothing to grab when I was finally able to cinch it down. I needed to sort it out fast, or my colleague was going to die.
Continue Reading CloseGreg Campbell's new book is called "Pot, Inc.: Inside Medical Marijuana, America's Most Outlaw Industry." He is the author of "Flawless: Inside the Largest Diamond Heist in History," "Blood Diamonds: Tracing the Deadly Path of the World's Most Precious Stones" (the source material for the Leonardo DiCaprio movie of the same name) and "The Road to Kosovo: A Balkan Diary." Campbell is also an award-winning journalist whose his writing has appeared in The Wall Street Journal Magazine, The Economist, The San Francisco Times, Paris Match, and The Christian Science Monitor, among others. He lives in Fort Collins, CO. More Greg Campbell.
My home, ripped apart
As I watch the Bosnian war crimes trial, I wish I could explain the horrors I saw as a boy, and how much we lost
A photo of the author examining bullet holes near the cemetery where his family is buried in Bosnia. (Credit: Eldin Trebincevic) My American friend James and I were watching soccer at a restaurant in Queens, but I couldn’t stop reading a story about Ratko Mladic’s trial at the Hague. There were two pictures with the story: One showed him smiling as he listened to his indictment at a pretrial hearing, and another of a mass grave he created.
“What’s that?” James asked.
I wanted to tell James how personal this was. It made me crazy to watch for 16 years as this monster responsible for killing what might be as many as 250,000 of my countrymen eluded authorities. “It’s the modern-day Nuremberg trial,” I said, wishing I could explain better.
Continue Reading CloseKenan Trebincevic’s work has appeared in the New York Times and on American Public Media radio. He is finishing a memoir about surviving the war called “The Bosnia List.” More Kenan Trebincevic.
My bully, my best friend
At first, I thought it was a joke when John called me "gay." By the time the school intervened, no one was laughing
(Credit: Tad Denson via Shutterstock/Salon/Benjamin Wheelock) The first time someone called me a “faggot” I didn’t hear it at all. That’s because my head was being slammed against a locker, the syllables crashing together like cymbals in my ear.
When I arrived at this new private school in seventh grade, after my mom got a job teaching, I hoped Fred and I might be friends. We were both faculty brats, and the school catered to elite students from wealthy families.
But our similarities ended there. Fred was tall for an eighth grader, and he was clear-skinned and golden, with hair so light it seemed more than blond. I was short, stocky and pale. He wore clothing emblazoned with Hilfiger and Klein. I was perpetually clothed in hand-me-downs. People whispered that he smoked pot and felt up girls after school. I had changed schools so often I’d forgotten how to make friends.
Continue Reading CloseYannick LeJacq is a freelance writer and photographer living in New York City. His work has appeared in Kill Screen, The Wall Street Journal, The Atlantic, and other publications. You can follow him on twitter @YannickLeJacq. More Yannick LeJacq.
A death that was also a birth
As a midwife, I've spent the last 30 years taking care of women in pregnancy. But nothing prepared me for this
(Credit: Clara via Shutterstock) The call came early in the morning. The 3-month-old granddaughter of my neighbor had finally succumbed to the illness she was born with. I am a midwife, but this call wasn’t about a birth. This time the call was from the mortuary.
I have spent the last 30 years taking care of women in pregnancy, birth and beyond. I use my hands to help bring life into this world. Over the past few years, however, I found myself using those very same hands in the performance of a Taharah, a Jewish ritual that prepares a dead woman for burial. Birth, life, joy, beginnings vs. death, decay, finality. Such a contrast! What could be more different? And yet, somewhere in my consciousness, there was a commonality. Caring for a woman in her life, preparing a woman for birth had a parallel in preparing a woman for burial. The act of helping a woman and her baby through their many transitions seemed analogous to helping the soul transition from this plane of existence to the next.
Continue Reading CloseTova Hinda Siegel is a writer who lives in Los Angeles. More Tova Hinda Siegel.
Interview With My Bully: The bully who asked me out
Caleb insulted my dead boyfriend in front of our entire class. Years later, I learned what he'd really been after
(Credit: Tad Denson via Shutterstock/Salon/Benjamin Wheelock) My prep school may have been home to the offspring of politicians, federal judges and national media personalities, but first and foremost we were teenagers. And so in the spring of 1998, my class gathered in the school library to plan our senior prank.
“We should direct all highway traffic into the school parking lot!” somebody suggested.
“Let’s cover everything in Vaseline!” someone else said.
I played along, but I was having a tough time. Eight months before, my boyfriend Ben had been killed in a car accident. He’d been different from the other guys: almost preternaturally kind and, like me, overly intellectual. On the way to our junior prom, we’d sat in the limo discussing “The Great Gatsby.”
Continue Reading CloseJennifer Miller's debut novel, "The Year of the Gadfly," is out now from Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. More Jennifer Miller.
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