Out of Africa
I love the flight into Dakar, but in Senegal I see how the world is falling to pieces, right in front of me
Graffiti on a wall in Dakar, Senegal, before the 2008 U.S. presidential election. (Credit: Patrick Smith) Part 1: Dakar, Senegal
Americans will pronounce it hypercorrectly, with the “a” sound too shortened. “D’Car.” Sort of the way they say “Khaaan” instead of “Can” when referring to that certain city in France.
The Senegalese say it more forcefully and flatter, both syllables equally stressed: “Dackkar.”
There used to be graffiti here, scratched out in what looked like charcoal, on a concrete wall behind the Pullman Hotel. “OBAMA, BIDEN,” it said. “THE NEW WORLD BILDERS [sic]” You can see it above.
This was just before the election in 2008, when so much of the world, it seemed, was looking at America with a renewed sense of optimism and expectation. “Hope” was the big word, if I remember right.
That fever has passed. And the graffiti is gone now, blotted away with gray paint.
I pass that wall on my way to dinner at La Layal, the Lebanese place I’m known to frequent.
It’s important, see, not to eat at the Pullman, where the surly poolside waitress might, eventually, bring you the pizza you ordered 90 minutes ago, and where the room service menu offers such delectables as:
Chief Salad
Roasted Beef Joint on Crusty Polenta
The Cash of The Day
Paving Stone of Thiof and Aromatic Virgin Sauce
That last one … it sounds like the chapter from a fantasy novel. So it’s off to La Layal, where once you get past the Testicles With Garlic and Lemon, or the Homos with Chopped Meat, the menu is both coherent and tasty.
They’ve gotten around, those Lebanese. Is there a city in the world, I wonder, that doesn’t have a decent Lebanese restaurant or a Lebanese-run hotel?
The national dish of Senegal, though, is yassa poulet — lemon chicken and onions served over rice. You can find it pretty much anywhere for hardly a few francs.
The beer here is called Flag. It’s your basic warm-climate lager, drinkable and entirely unexceptional, though I prefer the Ghanaian version, Star.
I’m dining alone. My colleague on this trip is one of those pilots who tends to feel uneasy in certain parts of the world. He brings his own food — bags of trail mix and cans of soup — and stays in his room.
I enjoy the flight into Dakar. The way the Cap Vert peninsula appears on the radar screen, perfectly contoured like some great rocky fish hook — the western-most tip of the continent, and the sense of arrival and discovery it evokes. There it is! Africa!
And in the evenings, the raptors, hundreds at a time in immense black flocks, spiraling over the concrete high-rises.
Yet it’s also true that the more time I’ve spent in Senegal, the less I’ve come to like it. The country has a way of beating you down, sucking your faith away. The heat, the garbage, the pickpockets and hustlers.
Everybody hitting you up for something. Nobody smiling.
This is one of those places where you will see, right there in front of you, how the world is falling to pieces, its resources ravaged, the landscapes strewn with plastic. And there is little that you, as the Western observer, with or without your good conscience, are going to do about it.
They’re spending billions on a new airport while the literacy rate hovers near 30 percent.
I come out of Layal tonight and give my leftovers to one of the city’s uncountable urchins. The kid is 6 or 7, barefoot, begging with a tomato can. “Talibe,” these vagrant boys are called.
He takes the bag without looking at me. No acknowledgment; not a glimmer of thanks. He grabs it the way a stray dog might grab a pork chop out of your hand.
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Part 2
The bus leaves the hotel at 3 o’clock in the morning.
Somebody brought tuna for the airport cat, but nothing for the kids demanding money and ballpoint pens. Cadeau? Cadeau?
A truck follows us to the runway, to keep any stowaways from clambering into the gear wells.
The runway is long but poorly lit. There’s something almost scary about it; turning into position and staring into those two skinny miles of oily blackness. Funny this was once a stop for the Air France Concorde.
Eastbound over Senegal, crossing into Mali. Predawn plumb-light, then sunrise. A hot red sphere balanced perfectly on a razor-straight horizon; the River Niger like a mirrored snake casting itself across the sahel.
Over the sewer-gutter town of Mopti, where I spent two days in 2002 on the way to Timbuktu. It looks so placid from 33,000 feet. I remember the riverfront trash, the shattered boats and the heaps of firewood raided from the forest. Naked children splashing in the greasy water.
The Bandiagara Escarpment is next. Home of the Dogon people, though you can’t see them from a 767. I was there, too. We camped out.
The land below is the exact texture of 40-grade sandpaper, splattered with gray-green turds that turn out to be small villages. Each is a tiny star with red clay roads radiating outward.
I remember a New Year’s Eve, on this same run, and midnight over the capital city of Bamako. The fireworks erupting below. Tiny points of light like fireflies. Tens of thousands of homemade incendiaries. Bamako’s party looked like war.
Burkina Faso now. “Upper Volta” they used to call it, a name we found hilarious in seventh grade.
I wanted to be a pilot then.
Into northern Ghana. The controllers are friendly and polite, their instructions calm and measured.
The same can’t be said for Kano, welcome to Nigeria. Say again? Repeat, please, Kano? Please? Say again? Over? Their voices are so angry and uncooperative that you want to turn around and fly home, like a dog retreating from a scolding.
The drive into town takes an hour.
The topography is vaguely prehistoric — everything rendered a deep, almost putrefied green, with insanely jutting karsts reminiscent of Vietnam or the south of Thailand. The trees are clumped and gnarled. Goats, no dinosaurs.
The man sitting next to the driver has an AK-47 and a Kevlar vest. He turns around and smiles.
We tip him well.
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For more from West Africa, see Patrick Smith’s Senegal YouTube video from Senegal, parts one and two.
Patrick Smith is an airline pilot. More Patrick Smith.
Behind the underwear bomb
The latest airplane terror plot wouldn't have been foiled without airport security -- but not the kind we all know
Travelers line up at a TSA checkpoint at Los Angeles International Airport.
(Credit: Reuters/Danny Moloshok) Another deadly plot taken down in the planning stages. This time, thanks to the work of a CIA double agent, officials were able to infiltrate a Yemen-based al-Qaida plot to destroy a U.S.-bound jetliner using a nearly undetectable underwear bomb.The moral of the story: Airport security works!Am I being facetious? Not necessarily. It depends on your definition of airport security.
In my mind, the key to keeping airplanes safe is, and always has been, stopping acts of sabotage while they are still in the planning stages. Here in the age of the TSA checkpoint, with its toothpaste confiscations and obsession with pointy objects, we tend not to think this way, preoccupied instead with a kind of airport Kabuki — the tedious, fanatical screening of passengers and their carry-ons. Real airport security takes place offstage, as it were. It is the job of the folks at the CIA and the FBI, working together with foreign authorities. And while TSA has an important role here too, we can do without the spectacle of airport guards rifling through innocent people’s bags in a pathological hunt for what are effectively harmless items.
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Letter from Mumbai
Could this long-winded carpet merchant really mistake me for a wealthy customer, ready to whip out my credit card?
(Credit: Patrick Smith) Flying from Europe to India, we pass overhead Odessa, Ukraine. Odessa, they say, is home to the most beautiful women in the world. Then across the Black Sea to Azerbaijan and the gorgeous barren landscapes of Georgia. Next comes the ink-dark Caspian, and then the long desolate outback of northwestern Iran. (The controllers down in Tehran are courteous and professional, their English impeccable — easier to understand than most Scottish controllers.)
From there it’s directly overhead the apocalypse of Karachi, followed by a turn southbound, out across the Arabian Sea toward Mumbai.
Continue Reading ClosePatrick Smith is an airline pilot. More Patrick Smith.
Revere Beach reveries
It was my perfect beach: Sand, clean water to swim in, and situated right below the approach to Logan Airport
A smiley-face balloon floats over Revere Beach in Revere, Mass. (Credit: AP) Sometimes when I hear the whine of jet engines, I think of the beach.
I don’t expect that to make sense to you — unless, like me, your childhood was defined by an infatuation with jetliners and summers spent at a beach that sat directly below an approach course to a major airport.
That would be Revere Beach, in my case, just north of Boston, in the mid- to late 1970s.
Then as now, the city of Revere was a gritty, in many ways charmless place: rows of triple-deckers and block after block of ugly, two-story colonials garnished in gaudy wrought-iron. (Revere is a city so architecturally hopeless that it can never become gentrified or trendy in the way that other Boston suburbs have.) Irish and Italian families spoke in a tough, North Shore accent that had long ago forsaken the letter “R.” Shit-talking kids drove Camaros and Trans-Ams, the old-country cornuto horns glinting over their chest hair.
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Beware the “office” romance
Do pilots and flight attendants really stay in separate hotels on layover? Plus: Do pilots bring their own food?
(Credit: Xavier Marchant via Shutterstock) Why can’t commercial jets be fitted with an exclusive side entrance into the cockpit, making it impossible for a potential skyjacker to gain access?
I am asked this all the time. It presents a number of complications.
First, you can’t simply cut a hole into the side of a plane and add an extra door. Doing so would require a large-scale and extremely expensive structural redesign. And in most cockpits there simply isn’t room for such an addition.
Presumably, too, you’d need to add a lavatory to the cockpit. And what about rest facilities? Long-haul flights carry augmented crews that work in shifts, and the off-duty pilots require a suitable place to relax or sleep. You’d be doubling or tripling the size of the average cockpit, which in turn would take up space already used for galleys, storage and passenger seats.
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The things I carry
All those gadgets, chargers, adapters and cords are supposed to make my life easier. I'm not so sure
(Credit: Patrick Smith) The scourges of modern-day air travel.
I can think of a few: TSA, delayed flights, garbage in your seat pocket. Screaming kids and misdirected luggage. “CNN Airport News.”
Or, how about the blizzard of cardboard placards that hotel chains insist on littering their rooms with? I spend a quarter of my life in hotel rooms, and I resent having to spend the first five minutes of every stay gathering up an armful of this diabolical detritus and heaving it into a corner where it belongs. Attention, innkeepers: This is fundamentally bad business. One’s first moments in a hotel room should be relaxing. The room itself should impart a sense of welcome. It shouldn’t put you to work.
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Page 1 of 89 in Ask the Pilot