What are you doing New Year's Eve? By Don George
How Salon Travel's favorite writers plan to ring in the new year.
(12/31/99)

Catching lobsters -- online By Steven A. Shaw
With just a few clicks, you can bring the fresh bounty of New England into your kitchen.
(12/28/99)

In bubbly is our beginnings By Burt Wolf
A short history of New Year's and its rites.
(12/24/99)

It's a bird, it's a plane -- it's SkyMall! By Christine Kenneally
Where can you order an indoor/outdoor miniature golf course for only $18,999.95? In the mother ship of all catalogs.
(12/21/99)

The empire winds down By Morris Dye
China's assumption of control over Macau on Sunday writes the final verse in the epic of European colonization in Asia.
(12/20/99)

The empire winds down By Morris Dye
China's assumption of control over Macau on Sunday writes the final verse in the epic of European colonization in Asia.
(12/18/99)

The day I became a Muslim By Zachary Karabell
At an Indian mosque on a blazing summer afternoon, a moment that I had only dreamed of came true.
(12/11/99)

Making bombs in Zanzibar By Frank Bures
An enigmatic encounter with a would-be African terrorist leaves an expatriate wondering about truth and faith.
(12/08/99)

The agony and the ecotourism By Katherine Ellison
Two progressive resorts in Chile exemplify the baby-boomer shift from bare-bones backpacking to pampered adventure.
(12/04/99)

Apocalypse now By Jim Molnar
For a longtime resident, Seattle's last few tumultuous days seem to have come straight from the Book of Revelation. (12/03/99)

"Would God forgive Lenin?" By Jeffrey Tayler
In a lonely tower above the mean streets of Krasnoyarsk, a wanderer encounters the fervent heart of Russia's abiding faith.
(12/01/99)

Feasting on the island everyone loves to hate By Jamie James
Don't criticize Singapore until you've tried the kaya at the Chin Mee Chin.
(11/30/99)

Into the belly of the earth By Beth Kephart
A cave in southwest France illuminates some of life's deeper secrets.
(11/29/99)

Thanksgiving: A personal history By Jennifer New
From the mythic Midwest of my childhood to the mesmerizing Chicago of later years, this holiday has always evoked a place.
(11/24/99)

Epiphany at Joshua Tree By Barbara Wilson
A woman confronts her painful past on an Outward Bound pilgrimage into the heart of fear.
(11/22/99)

Epiphany at Joshua Tree By Barbara Wilson
A woman confronts her painful past on an Outward Bound pilgrimage into the heart of fear.
(11/20/99)

Stressed-out at 33,000 feet By Mary Racana
Can you be sure the pilot on the plane you're boarding isn't depressed? Can the airlines be sure?
(11/18/99)

The loneliest man in China By Paolo Bacigalupi
In a nondescript rural restaurant, an expat is humbled by a local's worldly honesty.
(11/17/99)

Shopping for paradise By Carol Lloyd
Imagine owning your own dollop of sand, with palm trees and tropical blossoms, surrounded by aquamarine water. But at what price?
(11/15/99)

Weirdly wired world By Tony Wheeler
Why is a Turkish village more connected than a Japanese megalopolis? Lonely Planet's peripatetic founder celebrates and laments the state of global communications.
(11/10/99)

Sacrificing Nepal By Jeff Greenwald
The extraordinarily scenic and untouristed area of Mustang is about to have its figurative throat slit -- by a greedy highway project.
(11/06/99)

Tripping on iboga By Daniel Pinchbeck
In Gabon, a disenchanted journalist embarks on a hallucinogenic tribal rite.
(11/03/99)

Pilgrim of the dead By Summer McStravick
To get a real dose of the meaning behind Halloween, visit the bone chapels of Europe.
(10/30/99)

I booked it online By Judy Jacobs
From mega-travel agencies to boutique sites, the Internet has exploded consumers' hotel-booking options. But what do the different sites really offer? And where are the hidden treasures?
(10/27/99)

Letter from Ladakh By Steve Van Beek
The rugged inhabitants of this starkly beautiful, isolated land are now preparing for the latest invader: Winter.
(10/26/99)

Tales of a junket whore By Douglas Cruickshank
I gorged across Spain and Portugal on someone else's dime
(10/23/99)

Searching for Mr. Watson By Bill Belleville
Two frat brothers make a healing pilgrimage to a legendary renegade's retreat in the heart of the Everglades.
(10/18/99)

Publisher sponsors essay competition By Don George
Bradt Publications' contest offers a free trip for two to Patagonia as its top prize.
(10/12/99)

A bittersweet saga in Sicily By Frank Browning
An innocent visit to an "ancient" village fertility fest reveals a multilayered history of feuding families, conniving communists and failing farms.
(10/09/99)

Robbed on Lombok By Brent Hannon
Bandits strike a group of travelers in the wilds of a remote Indonesian island.
(10/06/99)

Laughing with the Dalai Lama By Rachel Louise Snyder
From Lhasa to Dharamsala, a Westerner pieces together the poignant puzzle of Tibetan Buddism and its exalted leader in exile.
(10/05/99)

Russia on the edge By Jeffrey Tayler
With bombs exploding from Moscow to Chechnya, nerves are tense everywhere. Is it all a power-saving ploy by Yeltsin? Or is the country on the verge of collapse?
(10/04/99)

Navigating Nairobi By Alicia Rebensdorf
For a Western woman, waiting on a rainy day at a matatu stand illuminates some inescapable truths.
(09/29/99)

Museum of substance By Ron Dicker
From opium-addicted housewives to cocaine cough syrup, the Drug Enforcement Administration Museum traces the history of illegal drugs in America.
(09/28/99)

E-mail from a burning mountain By Catherine Shepard
A secluded hermitage and its resident monks are threatened by a devastating fire on California's Big Sur coast.
(09/28/99)

The lonely crusade of Croatia's riverman By Jon Bowermaster
Zeljko Kelemen is determined to create a river-rafting industry in Croatia -- for the good of his country and his countrymen.
(09/25/99)

The tearful secret of Themar By Robert L. Strauss
A grandmother's tale, untold until now, opens a path of understanding and forgiveness.
(09/20/99)

My Jewish roots in Germany By Robert L. Strauss
Reluctantly and without a plan, an American uncovers his family's poignant past.
(09/18/99)

Borneo to be Wild By Jame DiBiasio
What ever made me think I could climb Mount Kinabalu?
(09/11/99)

Repast recaptured By David Downie
Feasting in a temple of traditional gastronomy in rural France.
(09/08/99)

Tempests in a Thai-pot By Morris Dye
Despite sex scandals and overspeculation, Bangkok residents still find reasons to smile.
(09/04/99)

Caught in the crossfire By Jessie Deeter and Anne Sengès
Is Beirut ready for tourism? Two journalists hit the ground in Lebanon to find out.
(09/01/99)

The carousels of Paris By Susan Hack
Long before Disneyland opened on its outskirts, the French capital gave children their own moveable feast.
(08/31/99)

Sacred places: England before the fall By Pico Iyer
A lifelong traveler reflects on his own piece of heaven.
(08/28/99)

The Brahmin of the Burning Ghats By Jeffrey Tayler
Lost in the fiery back alleys of Varanasi, a wanderer stumbles into an unforgettable encounter.
(08/21/99)

Malaria dreams By Tanya Shaffer
I was invincible in Africa -- until the mosquitoes got me.
(08/14/99)

Rendezvous of the sun and the moon By Jeff Greenwald
Our eclipse correspondent witnesses ancient treasures and a modern miracle in Iran.
(08/12/99)

Total eclipse By Jeff Greenwald
Encountering Iran on the cusp of change.
(08/11/99)

China good? China bad? By Hank Hyena
Nothing is simple in Tibet.
(08/07/99)

Expatriate, with olives By Lucy McCauley
In a Spanish grove, I found an ancient grace.
(08/05/99)

Conquering Half Dome -- and the fear of falling By Don George
When a simple hike turns into a paralyzing ascent, a father has to overcome his terror.
(07/31/99)

Out of Africa By Wendy Belcher
Why do so many travel books about the continent start the same way?
(07/28/99)

Disturbing encounters in Iran By Mark Mordue
Did that gesture mean he wanted to slit my throat? Or that Iran was slitting its own?
(07/24/99)

Letter from the Vineyard, Part 2 By William Mullins
The news sinks in.
(07/22/99)

"No one ever called them Vineyarders" By William Mullins
Life on the island in the wake of JFK Jr.'s crash.
(07/21/99)

Camp Nostalgia By Louise Rafkin
As a traveler, my favorite trips are always the repeats. Do I dare head back to camp?
(07/20/99)

"Water" and other stories By Barry Yourgrau
A drowning, porcelain cows, a chubby sultan and more: Six original pieces turn travel on its dreamy ear.
(07/17/99)

Cinema verities By Jonah Blank
They cast me as the white guy with the Indian lover. But my Indian lover found me untouchable.
(07/16/99)

Paris for voyeurs By David Downie
For those who walk at night, imagination soars in the City of Light.
(07/03/99)

Once upon a time in the Sinai desert By Laura Fraser
An impetuous camel safari with two Bedouin guides opens up an enduring ancient world.
(06/26/99)

My sacred place By Pico Iyer
For an introspective wanderer, a two-room flat in a generic Japanese suburb offers all the possibilities of a traditional shrine.
(06/19/99)

Can I trust you? By Carrie La Seur
In the wilderness, a woman, man and dog learn the fine art of interdependence.
(06/15/99)

A sexual education in Cuba By Daniel Weinshenker
The dance of need and desire differs from one country to another.
(06/12/99)

My holiest place By Jan Morris
A lifetime traveler finds solace in a renegade outpost in southeastern France.
(06/05/99)

The Boss in Barcelona By Michael Yessis
Bruce Springsteen rehearses -- and a global group of lucky fans gets a free concert.
(05/22/99)

Letters from Everest By Carolyn Hahn
My brother found George Mallory, and I found my brother.
(05/15/99)

Santorini style By Abby Sinnott
Nothing seduces like seduction itself.
(05/12/99)

Alaskan odyssey By Zachary Karabell
Our last wilderness is a place of enduring angst and enlightenment.
(05/08/99)

Bali moon By Laurie Gough
A wanderer enjoys the night sky with a new friend.
(05/05/99)

San Francisco romance By Laura Fraser
A passionate reunion rekindles a resident's love affair with the city.
(05/01/99)

Ways to disappear By Adam Bluestein
Three new friends on the Thailand-Burma border teach a traveler about gaining and losing.
(04/24/99)

Entering-the-Company Ceremony By T.R. Reid
On April 1, Japanese business grinds to a halt as companies pause to ritually welcome their new employees.
(04/21/99)

Bewitched on Bali By Pico Iyer
All love affairs are like journeys, deep into a foreign country, where you can't read the signs.
(04/17/99)

Bella Tuscany By Frances Mayes
A pilgrimage to Bagno Vignoni reveals the daily miracles of Italian life.
(04/14/99)

Ten days in the Sahara By Derek Peck
A two-man trek through the desert teaches a traveler about seeing, silence and self.
(04/05/99)

The roasting of the lambs By David Downie
In a city like Rome, renowned for its gastronomical pleasures, Eastertide induces a sort of collective ecstasy of good eating
(04/02/99)

Hungarian rhapsody By Julie Jindal
An encounter with an intimidating waiter is transformed by an epicurean feast
(04/01/99)

Honeymoon turbulence By Rosemary Berkeley
For really getting to know someone, there's nothing like a 10-hour flight where everything that can go wrong, does
(03/31/99)

Going without at Ramadan By Emily Zuzik
At the beginning of the Muslim fast, a traveler decides to do as the Marrakeshans do
(03/30/99)

Mediterranean reverie By Anne Dowie
Nestled in the rugged mountains overlooking the Ligurian Sea, Cinque Terre is the source of endless scenic and culinary delights
(03/29/99)

Ring in the loser By Mark Schatzker
What you do on New Year's Eve 1999 says more about your economic -- and social -- status than anything else
(03/26/99)

Night of the living kava By Eric Hansen
A traveler trips out on a magical root in the South Pacific
(03/25/99)

May I help you? by Jack Goldfarb
May I help you? From saffron to leather to edible silver paper, Johnny the market boy knew where to find it in the teeming Calcutta marketplace
(03/24/99)

Transylvanian nightmare By Jeffrey Tayler
A young man bears the lasting burden of Romania's depraved dictator with a dignity that transcends his grim surroundings
(03/23/99)

The camel market of Daraw By Kristan Schiller
In Egypt, a centuries-old business thrives at the end of the 40 Days Road
(03/22/99)

Helen of Troy is in my taxi By Rolf Potts
A wanderer discovers the ambiguity of language and love in the Philippines
(03/19/99)

'Don't shoot -- we're Americans!' By Daniel Becker
A hike across the Macedonia-Albania border goes wrong
(03/18/99)

Original sin by Janis Cooke Newman
A culinary pilgrim in Italy succumbs to temptations far more wicked than ripe produce.
(03/17/99)

Where the wild things are By John Fox
An archaeologist explores the Galapagos on an expedition run by school kids
(03/16/99)

Going native By Chris Colin
For American college students living abroad, the question is: How local can you get?
(03/15/99)

Family sanity By Phaedra Hise
A mother reveals her secret on how to travel with children -- and still feel like you're on vacation
(03/12/99)

The new North Vietnam by Jeff Greenwald
A visit to Hanoi and environs reveals the complicated legacy of the war
(03/10/99)

The wizard of Oise By David Downie
Vincent van Gogh still draws painters and pilgrims to the Parisian suburb of Auvers-sur-Oise
(03/08/99)

Siberian dawn By Jeffrey Tayler
An overland journey exposes a traveler to the hazards of radiation, desolation and snowstorms
(03/05/99)

The mystic-barber of Selçuk By Gary Mex Glazner
How a tonsorial teen in Turkey helped me understand the revelations of Rumi
(03/04/99)

Special delivery by Lindsy van Gelder
Hand delivering a postcard from the Galapagos to Italy starts a string of delightful surprises
(03/03/99)

Strangers in paradise By Douglas A. Konecky
Batam, Indonesia, was a lot less than the brochure promised -- until two traveling musicians found the Nagoya ice cream shop
(03/02/99)

Mardi Gras unmasked By Zachary Karabell
New Orleans' biggest bash features days of flesh, booze and flashy costumes. But what happened to the festival?
(03/01/99)

Railway ties By Morrie Erickson
A traveler discovers the real Burma on a train to Mandalay
(02/26/99)

Escape from Tashkent By Jeffrey Tayler
A Peace Corps volunteer unwittingly falls into a romantic adventure with a Russian waitress stranded in Uzbekistan
(02/25/99)

Death in Ghana By Tanya Shaffer
A simple succession of events in an African village leads to a tragedy -- and a traveler's haunting sense of hopelessness
(02/23/99)

Walking on silk By Thomas Golembeski
A massage teacher in Thailand changes a Westerner's life
(02/22/99)

Don't go near the mountains By Dawn MacKeen
From narco-tours to daily chit-chat about kidnappings, a stay in Cali, Colombia, is a plunge into the surreality of a pleasant nation engaged in an endless war
(02/18/99)

Captive in Kosovo by Susan Milligan
A journalist finds herself caught in the middle of the Drenica Mountains with a guerilla pressing a gun against her head
(02/17/99)

Losing it in Cambodia By Morrie Erickson
Getting a haircut in Cambodia is a good deal -- especially if you like getting more than you bargained for
(02/16/99)

Backstage on "The Beach" by Rolf Potts
A backpacker's quest to storm Leonardo DiCaprio's movie set ends in an epiphany that won't play in Peoria
(02/10/99)

Storming "The Beach" By Rolf Potts
A backpacker in search of adventure in Thailand puts the moves on Leonardo DiCaprio
(02/09/99)

Looking for Abdelati By Tanya Shaffer
An unexpected journey into the heart of a family in Casablanca
(02/08/99)

Dead ends in London By Laura Billings
Jack the Ripper returns to life on a grisly but gripping tour
(02/04/99)

Korea's no-man's-land Rolf Potts
The DMZ is one of the planet's oddest tourist attractions, where visitors can pick up everything from propaganda to perfume
(02/03/99)

Suite liberties By Chris Haines
A travel magazine employee gets free luxury hotel rooms and four-course feasts -- but there's always a price to pay
(02/02/99)

The new great place By Jeff Greenwald
Luang Prabang has been discovered -- and once laid-back Laos will never be the same
(02/01/99)

A passion for Pelago By Tanya Shaffer
An unlikely village hosts a Rainbow Gathering meets Burning Man meets rave music festival in Italy
(01/25/99)

Can this planet be saved? By Don George
Mark Hertsgaard discusses his new book about the human toll of global environmental devastation
(01/21/99)

Sex and fate in Macau By Rolf Potts
Inspired by a sidewalk fortuneteller, a traveler tries his luck at an erotic cabaret in this soon-to-be-transferred Portuguese colony
(01/20/99)

Teaching the cannibals to dance: Part Two By Craig Nelson
A mock battle culminates in a transcultural two-step -- and an unexpected gift
(01/19/99)

Teaching the cannibals to dance By Craig Nelson
An adventurer journeys farther than expected into a land of penis gourds and pig sacrifices
(01/18/99)

New York serenade By Pico Iyer
An ex-Gothamite returns for five days -- and finds that attitude has its charms
(01/13/99)

Behind the red curtain By Jeffrey Tayler
A night at the official Communist Party hotel in China leads to everything but a good night's sleep
(01/11/99)

Mother load By Tanya Shaffer
An invitation to stay with a woman's family in West Africa opens the door to more than her home
(01/07/99)

The men who moil for gold By J. Franklin Pierce
A century after the race for the Klondike gold fields, a hiker traces the argonauts' northward course
(01/06/99)

Death in Antigua By Steve Kettmann
A host family's tragedy tweaks the conscience of a traveler in Guatemala
(01/04/98)

- - - - - - - - - - - -