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Bedside salivating
Some cookbooks make such great reading (and such lousy guides to fixing dinner) that you never need to take them into the kitchen.

Editor's Note:This is the first installment of Ann Hodgman's monthly column on cookbooks.

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By Ann Hodgman



Sweet Celebrations: The Art of Decorating Beautiful Cakes

By Sylvia Weinstock
Simon & Schuster, 196 pages

Buy this book at B&N.com


The Making of a Pastry Chef

By Andrew MacLauchlan
John Wiley & Sons, 338 pages

Buy this book at B&N.com


Garde Manger: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen

Produced by the Culinary Institute of America
John Wiley & Sons, 466 pages

Buy this book at B&N.com


The French Laundry Cookbook

By Thomas Keller
Artisan, 325 pages

Buy this book at B&N.com


After-Dinner Drinks

By Jon Beckmann
Chronicle Books, 113 pages

Buy this book at B&N.com


The Hemp Cookbook

By Ralf Hiener
Ten Speed Press, 142 pages

Buy this book at B&N.com


Dec. 10, 1999 | "I love reading cookbooks in bed," I once blared out in a TV interview. Hearing the guys in the control room laugh, I hastily made things worse by adding, "Not that kind of bed." Why didn't I just say "Cookbooks make great bedside reading"? Especially at this time of year, as the holidays march toward us and trample everything in their path and the thought of cooking one more thing makes me want to put my own head into the oven. Maybe in January I'll feel like cooking again, but for now the only cookbooks I'm reading are the ones that steer me away from the kitchen and under a pile of quilts, where I can cozily marvel at other people's industriousness and forget my own horrible frantic life. The following suit the purpose admirably and would make nice presents as well.

Sylvia Weinstock's Sweet Celebrations: The Art of Decorating Beautiful Cakes is just about perfect. I have no immediate plans to spend hours making a wedding cake -- or one shaped like a hot-air balloon or a half-open hatbox with sheets of edible "tissue paper" poking out -- so this is the best bedside reading I could hope for. If I hadn't actually met Weinstock, I wouldn't believe she was a real person. Surely only an imaginary chef gives directions like "The fruit and flowers should be started 10 to 12 weeks in advance."

But she does exist, and the book's idyllically beautiful pictures prove that her cakes do, too. Weinstock's not one of those bakers who rely on Crisco and plastic fountains to get their effects. Her recipes are of uniformly high quality. It's probably impossible to make anything that comes close to looking like one of her creations, but "Sweet Celebrations" seduces you into wanting to try. I'm fairly certain that I'm going to make the cake that looks like a stack of wrapped Christmas presents, although my time might be better spent in wrapping real presents if I had shopped for any.

The Making of a Pastry Chef, by Andrew MacLauchlan, lures the reader even further into the recherché world of fancy desserts. This is the perfect book for those artsy souls who dream of dropping out of the rat race to work with spun sugar at a four-star restaurant. Of course, pastry chefs work harder, for longer hours and standing up, more than most ordinary people could bear. ("Maintaining my knees is the hardest part," says Maury Rubin of City Bakery.) But that only makes this book more succulent: You get to feel like a pastry chef while simultaneously thanking God you're not one.

Though the book has recipes for 50 exceptional desserts, including rhubarb napoleon with preserved ginger, tangerine sorbet with pomegranate sauce and berries in champagne jelly, the fun part is the interviews and anecdotes from famous pastry chefs. "One Fourth of July, I was working on the Trump Princess in New York," recalls Dan Budd, a professor of pastry arts at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.:

We had desserts going from the kitchen, which is at the base of the vessel, to the back deck … We put these desserts on large mirror platters and put them in an elevator with a waiter. The elevator was open on every level and the mirror caught on the second level of the boat and flipped the desserts straight up in the elevator shaft and the mirror slid down between the elevator and the floor and it traveled all the way down, smashing at the bottom of the ship. Donald Trump himself turned and said, "What was that?"

Gosh, this bed is comfortable ...

. Next page | The most impossible cookbook of the millennium


 
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