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Will the mania cross the Atlantic? Dana Cowin, the editor in chief of Food & Wine magazine, didn't sound too alarmed when Salon Books reached her at her office in New York. "Americans don't like things that wiggle or wriggle or don’t exhibit signs of solidity," Cowin said, unless it's red Jell-O or tapioca. "But if we're talking about meats that release gelatins, I think that they could be having a resurgence. Oxtail, for instance, and oeufs en gelée are big. The thing about oxtail is that it oozes gelatin, but if it's good, you don't notice it." Americans put off by such stuff can take pride in their own country's culinary contributions this July, when Harcourt Brace releases "Spam: A Biography." The fascinating and humorous history of the world's dodgiest food includes recipes to dress up the pink meat and even a few lyrics from old commercials: Whet your appetite?
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