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Was it fake for you too?

The subject of phony male orgasms rears its ugly head.

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the sound of breaking glass followed by gales of laughter filled my ear when I picked up the phone. Then, the faint hum of the overseas connection. “Who is this?” I shouted with mock severity. I had a fair idea it was either Mary or Sallie, my extremely loquacious British girlfriends, but it seemed a little late even for them. I looked at my watch: 6 in the evening here, 2 in the morning in Shepherd’s Bush.

“Remember that chat about what women don’t talk about?” Sallie said, not bothering with a preamble. “Mary has another dirty little secret that we’d like our Yank journalist friend to out for us.”

“Hello to you too,” I said. So much for British manners. “Been drinking, have we?”

“Hello, love.” Now it was Mary purring down the phone. “We’ve been meaning and meaning to ring for ages. We do miss you. When are you coming over?”

“I don’t know,” I said. “Are you having a party right now or something?” I imagined Mary in her strapless black dress and big combat boots, cell phone pressed to her ear. I heard some voices shouting jovially in the background and then a door close.

“Now I have Sallie here, sitting alongside me on the settee,” continued Mary. “I had the most dreadful experience which I’d like to share. And I’m certain this has only happened to me. I’m mortified, I really am.”

“That’s rubbish,” Sallie said in the background. “Ask her.”

Mary cleared her throat as if she were to begin a prepared speech. “Tonight I had a man actually fake an orgasm on me,” she said primly. “And I have to know: Do all men do this? Has this happened many times before and I just didn’t realize? And most importantly, has this happened to you?”

Sallie grabbed the phone. “I keep telling her he was a wanker anyway and not to worry about it. She got off, which is the only thing that’s important anyway.”

“How do you know he was faking?” I asked.

“How does she know?” Sallie cupped her hand over the phone as I heard her say to Mary, “She’s asking the physical evidence question too.”

Mary grabbed the phone back, and hissed “Well, Miss Weaver, there’s this little biological phenomena known as ejaculation — perhaps you’ve heard of it.”

“So he wasn’t using a condom is what you’re telling me,” I said. “Because, yes, I have heard of men faking it in condoms. It’s pretty easy to do, especially if they’re getting soft or sore anyway, toward the end. My friend Andrew used to do it with surprising regularity. Or so he said.”

“Now why on earth would he do that?”

“He’d get tired,” I said. “Same reason why girls do it. Performance anxiety and all the rest of it. But what happened to you?”

Mary sighed. “I’m on the pill, you know. And I was making love to — well, let’s just keep the names out of it. We’d just returned from seeing the Verve, and I was really quite amorous. And I came — after quite a while, because we’d been drinking all night. Usually I come right away.”

“Always bragging about that, she is,” Sallie put in.

“Shush, you old bag. And I was trying to get him to come, because I was a little sore, employing all my little tricks, and then he came. Or I thought he came. He groaned, arched his back, got softer, rolled off of me immediately. So, fine, I thought. Maybe not the most interesting or creative lovemaking I’d had but you can’t always be at the Albert Hall, right? Sometimes you have to settle with the Mean Fiddler.”

“She doesn’t live in London, love,” I heard Sallie whisper. “Those metaphors aren’t useful.”

“I get your drift,” I said irritably. “Then what?”

“Well, I got up to go to the toilet, like I always do because I can’t risk cystitis, now can I?” Mary worked at a woman’s health magazine and often peppered her speeches with preventive tips. “And before I sit down on the loo, I stand there for a moment. And I feel the oddest sensation, like something’s missing. You know that funny little internal dripping you get after sex when you stand up, and you know you have maybe two seconds to get to the toilet before his spunk starts running down the inside of your leg? Well, this time — nothing. Not a thing. So I sit down and think, well, I’ll just push it all out, it’s probably caught in some crevice. Still, nothing. I stand up after having a pee and look down, expecting to see that little frothy, cloudy bit. But no.”

“Now the poor dear is reassessing every lovemaking experience she’s ever had,” said Sallie, in the background.

“Yes, I am,” said Mary. “I’m terribly worried. When did men start doing this? Is it a trend that I don’t know about?”

“Maybe he just doesn’t come very much,” I offered. “Sometimes men don’t, particularly if they masturbate a lot.” I lay down on the sofa, suddenly tired. “Did you ask him about it?”

“As a matter of fact, I did.” Mary sounded indignant. “Sallie thinks I ought not to have bothered, but I wanted to know. And when I asked him, as tactfully as I could, he got so wound up and vicious that if I’d had any doubt before, it was immediately obliterated. I sensed he was highly embarrassed, which I find odd.”

Sallie chimed in, “It’s hardly a badge of honor for a bloke, Mary.”

“That’s true,” I said, considering. “I guess guys are expected to come every single time, to always be ready, or there’s something wrong or … or … effeminate with them.” Mary shifted the phone and I heard their heavy-booted steps return to a noisier part of the flat. “I’m pretty sure it’s happened to most women,” I said.

Sallie came back on the line. “She’s now downing another gin and tonic, poor thing. Isn’t it just like her to blame herself. And you’re probably right, it’s happened to us lots of times before and we just didn’t realize.” We started to say goodbye, as Sallie called to Mary, “Ignorance is bliss, love. Remember that next time.”

“I was thinking more along the lines of what those Yanks say on their bottles,” Mary responded loudly. “No Deposit, No Return.”

Expecting the worst

Like you, I had my suspicions about the rah-rah moms, the ones who made a hobby (or a career) out of their kids' school years. And then I became one of them.

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Like you, I had my suspicions about the rah-rah moms, the ones who made
a hobby (or a career) out of their kids’ school years, who were always
available to chaperone field trips and cut construction paper for art
projects and make jigglers and dirt cake for classroom parties (who didn’t
even have to ask what jigglers and dirt cake were), who called the
teacher by her first name and went gung-ho over every fund-raising drive. I
looked askance at these moms (and the occasional dad), thinking that no
normal, well-adjusted person could possibly care that much. My old
high-school contempt for the popular kids, the joiners, was deeply
ingrained — school spirit was for nerds. So I dismissed these
so-happy-to-help moms as control freaks who couldn’t let their kids out of
their sight, or goody-goodies who were reliving their student council glory
days.

And then I became one of them.

I’d like to say it happened insidiously, imperceptibly, creepily –
first the denim shirt, then the leggings, then the insatiable desire to
handle school paste. But it didn’t. I made the decision to become a
classroom volunteer with my eyes wide open and my knees shaking. We live in
a nice suburb with a perfectly fine neighborhood elementary school. My
husband and I went to public schools ourselves and, good liberals that we
are, we always felt a little guilty about the homogenous, high-end private
preschool we’d sent our son to. We were disturbed by the barely veiled
racism and classism of so many parents we’d met there, who spoke of public
school as something their kids needed to be shielded from. We would send
our son to public school and we would make it work. It was the right thing
to do.

When, after a suitable period of procrastination, I finally put my name
down to help out for a couple of hours a week in my son’s kindergarten
class, I thought, OK, no big deal: I’ll pass out the snacks, I’ll feed the
goldfish, I’ll get to see how smart my kid is, then I’ll go to work and
forget about it. I didn’t imagine — couldn’t — how much help a
kindergarten teacher with a class of 27 kids and no such luxuries as a
regular paid art teacher or library aide would need.

On my first day of school, I sat at a little table in the back of the
room while the teacher, a woman so young and enthusiastic it almost made me
cry, went through the lengthy and complicated ritual of Circle Time. While
she was doing that, I was to go down the class roster and take four kids at
a time to my table and have them cut out pictures of pumpkins, paste the
pictures in sequence from vine to jack-o’-lantern, color the pictures and
try to write their names on their papers. After my first group of four, I
was in a panic.

In my fantasies of being Snack Mom or Fish Mom, I left out one little
possibility — that I would actually have to interact with strange
children. Oh, I’m great with my own kid, but I still get tongue-tied around
other people’s kids. I don’t want to overstep my boundaries; I don’t want
to be responsible. But that’s exactly what this volunteering gig
required. Some kids couldn’t get the pumpkin sequence right; I was
instructed to give them a few hints. But how many hints were too many? Some
kids couldn’t spell their names. Should I show them how to make the
letters? Some kids wanted to color their pumpkins purple or red. I was
supposed to gently prod them into thinking about the color of real
pumpkins. But, often, I didn’t have the words — I frantically tried to
call up bits of my high school Spanish. Naranja? Verde? Por favor? This
wasn’t trivial stuff I was doing with these kids; these were projects that
the teacher would have done herself, but it would have meant she’d have to
abandon other projects. What right did I have to be playing school?

When the teacher thanked me profusely — too profusely — as I walked
out the door in a daze, I knew that there was no graceful or decent way I
could get out of this. She truly needed the help. And if not me and the
other volunteers — always the same half-dozen parents, I soon found out –
then who? So I went back, because I was needed and because my son was proud
to have me there and because I wanted this school to be great, like
my elementary school had been in a far less affluent town.

I went back and got to know my son’s classmates: Cody, who loved horses
and who would rub his head against my shoulder, horselike, by way of
greeting; Angela, who was an aspiring writer and a bit of a know-it-all and
who reminded me of myself at age 5; Zelda, who had beautiful sparkling
black eyes; Alan, who was a chatterbox; meticulous Ann, who was always the
last to finish her work and it was always perfect; Felipe, who would shyly
tell me about his big brother, whom he adored. There were some things that
troubled me: Julio’s pants were always too small and kept unsnapping, but
it didn’t appear that he was going to get any new ones. And George’s cold
was hanging on for such a long time. I developed a great respect for
teachers, not just for the workload they carry, but for the emotional load.

I drove kids on field trips to the pumpkin patch and the post office. I
walked kids to the school library and helped them choose books. I mixed
finger paint and filled glue pots. I traced penguin shapes onto black
construction paper and measured heads for pilgrim hats and Native American
feather bonnets. (My husband’s most tedious assignment: helping 27 kids
sort handfuls of nuts for a graphing project — walnut, filbert, almond,
walnut, filbert, almond.) And this is what I got in return: a little time
each week where I was too busy to stress out over work; a flowerpot
decorated with each kid’s name scrawled in gold pen; and the persistent
goodwill of two dozen of my son’s peers. A year later, I hear, “Hi Mark’s
mom!” on the playground and at the mall and on the soccer field. I’m
tempted to tell them, don’t remember me, remember your teachers — I’m just
a helper mom. But I don’t. Because, at long last, I have school spirit. And
I like being popular.

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Joyce Millman is a writer living in the Bay Area.

bad girl

A teenager struggles to stay human in the clutches of a system that despises her.

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The phone rings late, after 10.

“Is it OK to call at this hour?” asks a young, female voice I’ve never heard before. It’s a counselor from the group home where L. has
been for the past two weeks. She’s calling to let me know that L. is
“AWOL,” the term used by group home staff to describe a resident who
leaves without permission.

I’ve known L. for two years, since she was 14, when she wandered
into the youth newspaper I edit and sat down at a computer. Abandoned by
her mother, L. had lived with her great-grandmother until she was 11, when
the state took charge of her
care. After more than 20 foster and group-home placements in three years,
L. had, by the time I met her, decided she was better off on her own, and
was staying with one friend after another — part of the uncounted, indoor
homeless. When an argument with her stepfather — back in town briefly
along with her mother — turned violent, L. found herself swept back into the
system, sent to juvenile hall and then to this group home.

Though she’d promised to try to stick it out until Sunday, when I’d
be allowed a visit, I’m not surprised to hear she’s gone already. That
afternoon I’d gotten a call from the supervisor, his voice strained. L.
has been threatening to leave, doesn’t need him or anyone else, can make
it on her own. But when he puts L. on the phone she’s quiet, almost
squeaky, resigned. Two of the other girls have been after her since the
day she arrived. They can’t tell if she’s black or white, think she acts
like she’s “all that,” don’t like the gap between her teeth. They corner
her in the hallways and challenge her to fight, later, in the basement,
with no staff around to get in the way.

She has no interest in fighting them, no interest in any of the
petty power struggles that determine dominion in this tiny,
self-referential universe. That disengagement is as central to her
unpopularity as her caramel-colored skin or her fancy vocabulary: There’s
nothing more infuriating than a new kid who refuses to play by the rules.
So the other girls keep poking at her, which is hard to take, she reminds
me, because she “has a lot of anger” — the loose, swirling kind that barely
remembers its source, that simply hovers, until it finds a trigger or a
target.

Tonight’s fight had started at the dining table. L. used a
polysyllabic word, showing up her less erudite adversaries, and they either
slammed down a dictionary (by their account) or threw it at her (by hers),
suggesting she look up those big words of hers before tossing them around.
She lunged, they fought, and she wound up ripping out a big chunk of one
girl’s hair, leaving a gaping bald spot, the quintessential mark of
humiliation. (Even 10 years ago, when I worked in a group home, “I’ll
snatch you baldheaded” was the threat of choice when things went sour
between the girls.)

“It was gross,” winces the counselor, with a nervous laugh that
includes some concern — enough to have made her call me — but also a
voyeuristic curiosity that demands collusion.

“I don’t know where she is right now,” the counselor continues. “I
hope she’s not hoing.” The word sounds silly in her prim, suburban voice,
and the implication — they’re all the same — infuriates me.

When I get to work the next morning, L. is already there, asleep on
the couch. She wakes up and bounces around the office, alighting on desks,
soaking up all the attention in the room, thirsty for more. “I looove
Nell,” she announces to nobody in particular when I walk by. “She came to
see me every week when I was in juvenile hall.” The declaration is clearly
preemptive: She has screwed up and is afraid that means I won’t love her
anymore. (In the rigid emotional economy of group-home life, that’s
generally how it goes.)

We take a walk and she tells me what happened. For two weeks, at
school and at home, these two girls pushed, pulled at her, found her weak
spots and went for them with the unfailing instinct of the trapped. The
staff finally got wind of the conflict and yesterday called a meeting in
which L. and her primary tormentor were each instructed to leave the other
alone. By calling each to task in front of the other, L. explains, the
counselors had inflamed both girls’ pride, practically guaranteeing the
blowup that followed.

L. regrets her AWOL, though she left not impetuously but because
she felt herself backed into a corner — the police were on their way and she
wasn’t prepared to go back to jail. She does want to go back to the group
home, though, and says she’s willing to take whatever medicine is
prescribed her in order to be allowed to do so. She felt it was a good
placement, relatively speaking, and that had been my impression too — to
the degree that any place that takes six to eight young women, each
carrying her own load of pain and rage, and throws them together in an
enclosed space can ever be called a home. L. wants my help in negotiating
her return.

When I call the group home supervisor, he is sympathetic but
hesitant. It was, apparently, quite a large chunk of hair, and the girl to
whom it belonged wants to press charges. But he knows that L. was
provoked and also that she really was trying, and doesn’t seem averse to
taking her back. He says he’ll talk to the social worker and the therapist
and get back to me. In the meantime, he suggests I call her probation
officer.

The P.O., who has not been easy to reach in the past, returns my
call immediately when I leave a message that L. is in our office. It’s
been less than 10 minutes since the group home supervisor promised to look
into L.’s return, but this woman’s voice is like a door slamming shut.

“I’ve discharged L. from the program,” she informs me. “She needs
to turn herself in.”

“Needs to” is one of the more frightening euphemisms you hear from
institutional types, used to describe actions that they themselves are
determined to compel. L. may have no choice but to turn herself in, but on
her lists of needs, which range from love and attention to a jacket to a
high school education, going to jail is actually pretty low. But until she
meets this “need,” I am told quite explicitly, she can forget about the
rest of them.

I tell the P.O. that L. knows she must turn herself in and is
willing to do so, but would like to have some sense of what her future
might hold once she hands herself over. Such an expectation, I am made to
understand, is ludicrous. We are talking about an offender, I am
reminded — someone who “ripped a child’s hair out.” (The fight, in this
version, is erased, and “child” status is reserved only for the single
designated victim, the other girl.) There will be no deals here, no
bargaining, no “working together.” I must deposit L. behind bars post
haste, and let them do with her what they will.

At this point I make what I will come to see as a crucial mistake: I tell her that no, I will not stuff L. into the trunk of my car and return her to jail against her will. I will try to use the relationship I’ve built with her to help her make the choice to come in. I will not end that relationship if she proves herself unable to come to that decision within the next half hour.

That, at least, is what I try to convey. But I am so stunned by the chill I hear in the voice of this woman with so much power over people’s lives that my delivery is, I suspect, whiny and desperate. Despite myself, I must be conveying what I really feel: I can’t believe you would do this to her.

Two days later, at her request, I bring L. back to jail. We stop at
a bookstore and she picks out a stack of novels — Toni Morrison, Gloria
Naylor, Jamaica Kincaid — which I’ll have to bring in to her one at a time:
You are not allowed to carry anything with you when you enter juvenile
hall. At a nearby mall, she chooses a lunch of milkshakes and candy, a
child’s last meal.

“Slow down,” she keeps saying as we drive the 20 miles to juvenile
hall; by the time we reach the exit, we are barely moving, and I have
become aware of how much it is costing her to submit voluntarily to a
system that has let her down so often. It is something she has never done
before, but I’ve promised to do everything I can to help her find a
placement. The dozen books are just a precaution, an indulgence: Neither
of us imagines she will be locked up long enough to read them.

As it turns out, she is kept behind bars for nearly six months, the
legal limit for someone who has not been sentenced for a crime but is
merely awaiting a residential placement. As far as I can tell — and I try
my best to find out — little effort is made during most of that time to find
somewhere else for her to go. I try looking for a placement, but find
myself nearly paralyzed. I can’t get any details from the probation
department, have to grovel and plead even for permission to visit, since my
role corresponds to none of the categories on the little blue visitor’s
pass: parent, guardian, custodian.

Meanwhile, L.’s childhood, actual and legal, ticks away while she
exists in a sort of sleep in her darkened room, reading W magazine by the
light that comes through the crack under her door. Every so often — when
another group home administrator explains why L. is not “appropriate for
the program,” when the guard at the front desk arbitrarily changes the
rules, when another court hearing is canceled without warning or
explanation — I get just a taste of the rage that is generated when
helplessness meets irresponsible power. Your mind looks for avenues, ways
out of or around the dreadful deal you’re offered, and then, hitting only
brick walls, quite naturally lashes out. That’s why there is such random
venting in juvenile institutions — the throwing and breaking things, as well
as the viciousness toward each other. Legitimate anger is blocked off,
dammed, until, as inexorably as water, it finds another outlet.

“With freedom comes responsibility” — that’s one of those
things adults are fond of telling children. What we tend to forget is the
corollary: When you take someone’s freedom, you assume responsibility for
her, particularly when you imprison her in the name not of her actions but
of her status. That’s what I am desperate to make these people understand:
the tremendous weight of the responsibility they’ve assumed by locking up
this child. They have forfeited the right to fail to return a phone call,
to profess themselves “not sure” why a placement hasn’t come through, to
act like petty bureaucrats under no obligation to tell you why your package
hasn’t arrived, or worst of all to blame her for their failures. They
must not fail her, unless they are prepared to admit it, and set her free
to fend for herself.

Like surgeons, in whose hands lives are laid, they don’t have the
luxury of indifference or incompetence. But they are not, of course,
compensated as surgeons, and I suspect they remind themselves of that when
faced with a “hard to place” child like L.

Just weeks from the legal
deadline that would probably mean being dispatched to a crowded temporary
shelter, I find a group home that will take L., and the probation
department agrees to let her go. The minute she is released, L. springs to
life — getting a job, enrolling in community college (she passed her high
school equivalency test in juvenile hall), buying new clothes and dreaming
of boys.

Things go well for a few weeks. Then there is an argument with an
administrator, L. throws something, the police are called. I am talking to
her on the pay phone when they knock on the door.

“Don’t worry about the police,” I tell her. “They can’t arrest you
if there’s been no crime, just because somebody wants them to.”

“They can if you’re on probation,” she reminds me.

This time, though, the police leave without her. The only
suggestion I can offer now is that she compromise, play the game, do what
is required of her to keep a roof over her head and stay out of jail. When
she thinks of these relationships as real, that’s when she allows herself
to get angry, and her anger is too dangerous to her now.

She says she knows, has been trying to do just that, but when she’s
successful at it she fears she’s losing herself. That is what happens to a
lot of young people who grow up in the system. In order to survive, they
allow themselves to become “institutionalized” — such skilled manipulators
that they don’t know how to form a real relationship. The thought that
someone else might come to know them inspires only fear.

But L., astonishingly and at great cost, has managed to hold on to
who she is. She has not become institutionalized; has not learned to
structure her identity in terms of, or in opposition to, the rules and
definitions the system would impose upon her. She is smart, she is honest,
and she keeps on trying her hardest. They’ve only got her for another year
and a half, unless they manage to push her into some act that will allow
them to criminalize her further. I find myself hoping that it’s not enough
time for them to ruin her.

In the movie “Face/Off,” Nicholas Cage, confronting an intransigent
female witness, uses the worst threat of all: “I’ll send you to jail, and
your child will go into foster care.” Any audience would get the menace
behind these words; it’s only the system itself that still clings to the
myth of its own benevolence.

It’s difficult for me to “counsel” young people who live under the
jurisdiction of the foster care system because the level of courage and
patience required of them is beyond what I possess. And it’s difficult to
advocate for them because they are so completely without recognized rights
to which I might appeal.

“You met me once,” L. screams at her P.O. over the phone. “You
don’t know what I need.”

Neither do I. But I do know that we owe her, owe all of them.
We’ve taken their freedom, their right to self-determination, and now our
obligation to them is tremendous. It is the same as a
parent’s, because we are claiming the rights of a parent. For the
authority we claim, we owe care in equal measure. That’s the tacit deal
between parent and child, but we make no such promise to those toward whom
we presume to act in loco parentis. “If you needed attention,” a
counselor tells L. in juvenile hall, “you shouldn’t have gotten yourself
locked up.”

A few years ago, my neighbor took in a troubled teenage nephew.
The nephew returned home and is now serving a 10-year sentence for
robberies committed just weeks after his 18th birthday. My neighbor’s
conclusion, after a recent visit: “There are two worlds. One is the
suburban backyard world where children do as they are told and all their
needs are met. It works. But people from that world are making decisions
about children whose needs are not being met, and that isn’t working.”

To say that the foster care and juvenile justice systems add insult
to injury is more than a metaphor. These systems have come to despise the
wounded children in their care. There’s no other possible conclusion: The
hatred is systemic. While it has grown fashionable to pay lip service to
the importance of “self-esteem” for adolescents, there’s no greater sin in
the parallel universe inhabited by wards of the state than pride: thinking
you might be worth something. To think well of oneself is to think oneself
entitled, better than, and then one must be taken down a peg. Youth and
adults grow equally willing, equally qualified, to execute this
taking-down.

It’s not too hard to see where the hatred might come from. It
hurts to love these hurt children. They are angry, and they will vent that
anger on whomever is nearest. Something is wrong with them, and if you
don’t want it to be your fault you’d better believe it’s theirs.

Inside juvenile hall, I get a glimpse of the L. the system knows.
She still tells the truth, but she hisses it, wields it. I know the face
they see, the one that so repels them, but I only see it when she is
under their roof.

On the radio they’re talking about rats, and I can feel my mind
shut down. A study has been made of the permanent — not long-term, not
remediable, but permanent — effects of the absence of maternal care. Rats
whose mothers fail to lick and groom them sufficiently wind up anxious,
easily startled, saturated with a chemical fear that never ebbs. I don’t
believe it.

When L. cries on my shoulder on a park bench and says, “I want to go
home,” I don’t say, “Where do you mean?” because I know that’s why she’s
crying. Until she turns 18, L. will not even have the legal right to do
what she has been forced to her whole life: take care of herself. But
somehow, she keeps growing, drawing water from deep below the desert of her
exile. With every word and action, she lets you know that it is not “too
late” for her (whatever that phrase might mean when applied to any child).
Fiercely, quixotically, she keeps fighting for that other life she has not
yet forgotten awaits her.

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Nell Bernstein is the author of "A Rage to do Better: Listening to Young People from the Foster Care System."

The role model syndrome

Jill Nelson and Gwendolyn Parker are two sassy women writers refuse to play nice in their memoirs of life among the white -- and black -- elite.

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epic struggle has characterized most of the history of African-Americans, but the 29 years since the murder of Martin Luther King Jr. have been essentially unheroic. Black political leaders have, for the most part, been as corrupt or ineffectual as their white counterparts. The dominant conservative culture condemns the so-called “black underclass,” blaming its plight on “social pathology” and a lack of “personal responsibility.” Meanwhile, a growing black middle class has tangled with the insidious ironies of integration. In the 1990s, there are few rallying points for black solidarity. For contemporary African-Americans, ambivalence and ambiguity are as much a part of the social order as oppression and strife once were. Today’s racial situation is not simply tragic and volatile — it’s also absurd.

Most of the masterpieces of African-American literature were written during the age of epic struggle. And some of the best black writers of the post-civil rights era — Toni Morrison, August Wilson, Ernest Gaines — have set their most powerful tales in the bad old days when whites were more clearly evil and blacks more unassailably noble. But what about these days? How does the creative, socially engaged black writer tackle the murky racial complexities — and absurdities — of more recent times?

Any writer who does must contend with two rigid wings of America’s literary establishment: white folks who consider themselves so racially enlightened that they need never question their own attitudes; and black folks who want to make sure that those enlightened whites have a good impression — a “positive image” — of most black people, but especially of black people like themselves. The members of the white wing prefer books about the sort of black people they rarely, if ever, meet — poor rural folk or ghetto dwellers, victims to pity, gangstas to fear, blacks they can feel superior to. These arbiters of literature don’t mind hearing about difficult racial questions so long as they are presented politely and do not provoke anything like self-doubt. The members of the black wing of the establishment prefer tales of triumph over tragedy. They are not very keen on the absurdity of race. They want black literature to be safe, uplifting, mainstream. They want black writers to be careful what they say, especially when writing about the black middle class. The underlying concern — the source of their anxiety — is always the same: “What are the white folks going to think?”

Two strong new books, Jill Nelson’s “Straight, No Chaser: How I Became a Grown-up Black Woman” and Gwendolyn M. Parker’s “Trespassing: My Sojourn in the Halls of Privilege,” examine, in highly personal ways, America’s post-’60s racial conundrum. These books are both memoirs. Both are written by black women from affluent backgrounds. Both authors were born in the early ’50s. But their takes on what used to be called the Black Experience could hardly be more different.

One of the thrills of reading journalist Jill Nelson’s first memoir, “Volunteer Slavery,” was that the author clearly did not give a damn what white folks thought about anything. The book, published in 1993, used Nelson’s four-year stint at the Washington Post as a frame for the scabrously funny story of her life. I’ve always found the title a bit much: Surely, hacking for a prestigious newspaper at $50,000 a year is not exactly comparable to picking cotton from dawn to dusk and suffering the sundry atrocities of black plantation life.

But then again, everything about “Volunteer Slavery” was irreverently over-the-top. Take Nelson’s description of her white bosses’ attitude toward her: “I keep getting this creepy feeling that the Washington Post is doing me some kind of favor. It’s as if, as an African American, female, freelance writer, I’m a handicapped person they’ve decided to mainstream. The words to ‘Look at Me I’m Walking,’ the theme song of the annual Jerry Lewis Muscular Dystrophy Telethon, pop into my head.”

“Volunteer Slavery” was one of the rare nonfiction books to have a great subtitle: “My Authentic Negro Experience.” With that choice, drippingly sarcastic phrase, Nelson demolished one of America’s most cherished social myths: that there is such a thing as a genuine, all-encompassing black identity. Nelson — the daughter of a successful dentist and an “Indianapolis princess” who summered on Martha’s Vineyard — was unapologetically bourgeois and unsparingly honest in describing her family’s genteel dysfunction.

Given the squeamishness and racial hypocrisy of the American literary establishment, it is not surprising that Nelson had a hard time getting her first book published. The general readership in the U.S., though, is not as squeamish or hypocritical as the arbiters of literature, and once “Volunteer Slavery” came out, it did extremely well. In literature, as in every other realm of American life, money talks. When you write a bestseller, the establishment decides you must be pretty good after all. Nelson’s follow-up is a Book-of-the-Month Club selection.

“Straight, No Chaser” (the title is from Thelonious Monk’s hard bop classic) is something of a hybrid, two books wrapped around each other. One book is a sort of sequel to the last — like “Volunteer Slavery” with all the Washington Post material cut out. We learn more about Nelson’s parents and she recounts, in the same idiosyncratic voice, her relationships with men, the harrowing day when the authorities tried to take her infant daughter Misumbo from her, a hilarious 1979 rally where Afrocentric activist Queen Mother Moore tells her audience that “polygamy is the answer!”

The other book in “Straight, No Chaser” reads like a combination self-help manual and manifesto of sisterhood. In these pages, the quirky, edgy Nelson voice we know so well disappears. It’s replaced by a voice that is earnest and therapized: “I thought there was something wrong with me, that everyone else was living happily ever after while I could find no center of power.” Nelson urges black women to “seize visibility, voice and power.” There is much talk about the need for a collective identity or a collective voice or a collective agenda.

Often, Nelson segues from a fascinating personal story into a generalized, long-winded tirade. A lot of the material here is tediously familiar: the usual bemoaning of the loss of ’60s idealism; the boilerplate criticism of black stereotypes in the media; the obligatory brother-bashing, damning black men for everything from beating and killing sisters to dating white women. Instead of the Stoli-swilling badass of “Voluntary Slavery,” “Straight, No Chaser” presents a well-adjusted Jill Nelson, extolling the virtues of exercise, sobriety and community service.

On the one hand, I say: more power to her. Yet it bothers me that Nelson seems to have embraced the notion of racial authenticity — at least when it comes to black women — that she mocked in “Volunteer Slavery.” Her eye for the absurd is only half open. I worry that America in general and black America in particular may be losing a brilliant writer and gaining yet another preachy role model, exhorting folks to do, say and think the right thing.

How authentic is Gwendolyn M. Parker’s black female experience? In the early pages of “Trespassing,” this Durham, N.C., native tells us she is “the daughter of a pharmacist and a teacher, granddaughter to a banker and a businessman, great-granddaughter of a doctor who’d built one of the largest black-owned businesses.” Parker’s family life is notably free of drama and trauma. After the Parkers move north, Gwen goes on to a Connecticut boarding school, Radcliffe, NYU Law School, a two-year sentence in the whitest of Wall Street law firms, then an eight-year stay at the relatively multicultural American Express where she is, for the most part, a happy camper. When she quits at 36, she seems more motivated by professional ennui, a superachiever’s burnout and a desire to write than by anything explicitly racial.

Where “Trespassing” excels is as a subtle and elegantly written dissection of the sort of intellectual warfare that so many African-Americans must engage in. Back in Durham, Parker’s maternal grandmother, Miss Bea, knows the score. She teaches little Gwen that “intelligence was a weapon, a sharp, infinitely useful instrument, good for dealing with anyone but especially with white folks, who, as she put it, never expected colored people to have any brains.”

A junior high school teacher gives Parker a C because he assumes that the well-crafted poem she submitted was plagiarized. When the law school newspaper compares the LSAT scores of black and white students, it opens up “an age-old wound: the charge that intellectually, as a race, we did not measure up.” Parker becomes a “racial avenger,” feeling that she must constantly prove she is smarter than condescending whites. “I wondered,” she writes of her snotty law firm colleagues, “if white people, or at least those in the grip of this illusion of their own mythic superiority, were truly insane, or if they hypnotized themselves every morning in order to believe the absurd things they did.”

Absurd is the word. At their best, Gwendolyn M. Parker and Jill Nelson explore, humorously, poignantly, insightfully, the weirdness of America’s race and gender obsessions in this curious and uncertain era. Through the complexity and specificity of their voices, they remind us that there are as many different black consciousnesses as there are black people.

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Jake Lamar is the author of "Bourgeois Blues," a memoir, and "The Last Integrationist," a novel. He lives in Paris.

Florence

In this distinguished Welsh writer's mind, Florence is the quintessential center of art, history and civilization

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this is the time of year, in the mellow of the fall, when wise travelers go to Florence; but I don’t need to make the journey myself because I see the city two or three times a month, whenever I drive out of England to my home in Wales.

It happens when I cross the low hills of the Herefordshire border, and find before me a sheltered green bowl of meadowland, perfectly proportioned around the little river Cynon. In a trice, Florence appears there, like a hologram. Across the stream an ancient covered bridge swarms with people. A great dome rises above the fields, with a campanile beside it, and there are lines of palaces along the riverbanks, and clumps of dark poplars, and squares with statues in them. Everything is bustle and color, smoke curling from medieval chimneys, echoing cries of hawkers and boatmen, strains of monkly chanting. All too soon the road leaves the valley and the lovely illusion is gone. Twelve miles to Rhayader, says the signpost.

The truth is that to me Florence is more than just a city: It is the idea of a city. No place on earth offers me an image more concentrated and more exact — the look of it, its history, its style and reputation all bundled into one intoxicating fancy. I think of Florence not as a municipality, with the usual problems of sewage, traffic and petty crime, infighting among city councilors and shady practices concerning planning permissions. Those citizens I see swarming over my mirage-bridge are artists and poets every one — or if not, master craftsmen, philosophers or cultivated merchants of ancient lineage. Princes live in those insubstantial palaces, and masterpieces adorn all their drawing rooms. Magnificent prelates preach beneath that dome. Immemorial bells sound from the campanile. If there is crime, it is gorgeous crime, all daggers and secret poisons. If there are squabbles about civic development, they concern the best place to erect a figure by some genius sculptor, or a dispute over who is to carve the baptistery doors.

In short, I am dreaming as I drive, and all my notions of Florence are misty and golden, like that transient vision on the road to Rhayader.

Misty, yet decidedly precise. I have always particularly admired buildings that look as though you could pick them up, so functionally compact do they seem, so absolute. The Palace of Westminster strikes me as one such structure, also the Doge’s Palace in Venice and the Chrysler skyscraper in Manhattan. So it is with my conceptual Florence. It is like a model for me, everything complete and compact and crystal clear.

It is of course true that when we think of most cities in the world we think only of their centers, disregarding the sprawling suburbs all around. New York is just Manhattan to most of us, give or take a bit of Brooklyn; how many people include Crouch End in their mental image of London, or see Parramatta behind the Sydney Harbour Bridge? My feelings about Florence, though, are different. It is not that I wilfully ignore its suburbs; it is that in my mind’s eye, it has no suburbs, has no ring roads or railway sidings or supermarkets, but is simply a shapely medieval cluster of buildings glorious with art and history beside its river.

This is not all mere romanticism. Florence really is snugly couched, like my holographic version of it, between low and gentle hills upon the River Arno in Tuscany. Generations of artists have painted it from the high ground around and given the impression that it is a small, idyllic settlement clustered around the covered Ponte Vecchio, surveyed by the grand dome and campanile of the Cathedral, and by the castellated tower of the Palazzo Vecchio. Generally, the painters bind their views with blue hills, so that the city seems to lie there serenely in a contoured embrace, waiting for you to touch it, or stroke it — or pick it up. Even the oldest depictions of Florence indulge this fancy. The earliest realistic picture of them all, engraved in the late 15th century, is actually enclosed within an engraved chain, complete with engraved padlock, as if to demonstrate the levitable nature of the place.

So my vision of Florence owes much to the artists, who have always made it seem a privileged enclave, separate from everywhere else. But it derives too from my first genuine, wide-awake experience of the city, at the end of the Second World War. My introduction to Florence was a helter-skelter, free-wheeling ride into town, more or less out of control down the hill of Fiesole, in an armored scout-car whose engine had given up; and no impression could have been more lasting than the blissful sensation, as we skidded at last into the venerable downtown streets, that we had arrived at some blessed haven of consolation.

Then again, in my consciousness — or sub-consciousness — Florence occupies its own cultural capsule: detached, separate and unmistakable. Its name triggers a Pavlovian response in me, as in nearly everyone else. Say Florence, and I will cry, “Civilization!” My mind’s eye, which has already seen the city stylized physically into that glorious little clump of towers and rooftops beside its single bridge, imagines it populated too by all the geniuses of the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Dante hobnobs there with Petrarch and Boccaccio. Raphael chats with Botticelli. There stands Michelangelo, supervising the dragging of his great statue of David into the piazza, inch by inch on greased beams. Brunelleschi is round the corner, watching the construction of his cathedral dome, and Ghiberti inspects his marvelous baptistery doors. Donatello walks over the bridge to supper, Fra Angelico returns to his monastic cell after painting another lovely angel. Leonardo, Uccello, Giotto, Fra Filippo Lippi — all are there in my Florence, all apparently at the same time, all in harmony. No matter that many of them lived and worked in other cities, too. It is to Florence that reputation has assigned them, and with them throng all their followers down the centuries — the scholars, the connoisseurs, the dilettantes of the Grand Tour, the international art dealers and the auctioneers and the groups of T-shirted students shepherded awestruck from gallery to gallery.

And what about political history? Florence is always and only a city-state, in my imagination, and its consequence is all embodied in one glittering family of rulers: the Medicis. I can see them clear as life in my imagination, with their bright wide eyes and patrician noses, leaning elegantly against pillars or smiling benevolently from thrones. Did they not make Florence the humanist capital of Europe? Did not Galileo name the moons of Jupiter after them? In my fantasy of Florence I dismiss all its lesser rulers, ignore the old feuds between the political factions of Guelphs and Ghibellines, turn a blind eye to Savonarola, the fanatic who held the Florentines in thrall, pretend that the Florentine Machiavelli never lived. It is the Medicis for me, as it probably is for most of us; and most vividly of all, when I think of Florence, I see Lorenzo de Medici, the lordliest of them all, duke of dukes, scholar, musician, poet, architect and lover. Everything that is civilized and worldly and elegant and splendid boils down in my fantasy to Lorenzo the Magnificent of Florence.

This blend of images, together with many more subliminal ones, gives my idea of Florence a mellow aura. It summons in me sensations deliciously autumnal. Others, I know, have seen the place as emblematic of spring, or harvest time — “flowers and grapes and olive leaves” was Mendelssohn’s metaphor, and Byron wrote of the city’s corn, wine, oil and plenty “leaping to laughing life.” But mellow is my word for it. Its buildings seem to me matured by time, molded into each others’ presences, accustomed to one another; the colors of its great pictures, recalled collectively in my memory, are never lurid or dazzling, but reverently noble; and I always seem to see dim blue wood smoke rising from its elaborate chimneys, casting fragrances of pine or oak all across the city. Surely no vulgar rivalries or sleaze ever disturbed the serenity of this glorious place (say I to myself, as I meander dreamily on to Rhayader) …

Is it only a dream? Well, Florence has suburbs, and a railway station and cinemas and supermarkets and armies of tourists and rubbish and quarrelsome civic councilors like everywhere else. Eight bridges, not one, cross its river. It was always as much a center of money-making as of art. Its history began long before the Renaissance, in Roman times, and Mussolini called it Firenze facistissima. Its great artists often quarreled. Its rulers, far from being just enlightened art lovers, went in for every kind of political skullduggery. It has not been an independent state since 1737. Lorenzo the Magnificent was extremely ugly. What’s more, Florence was never, as I have loved to imagine it, a single bright prodigy burning there beside the Arno, but was only one of several such city-states, frequently rivals. It was not always mellow, by any means, but often very brash.

Only a dream? Yes and no. As a matter of fact, in that Welsh valley where I see my mirage-Florence so vividly, the 13th century English conquerors of Wales did try to create a city. It never came to anything, though, and all that remains of it now is a line of cottages, a church, a country mansion and some grandly named village lanes. No Ponte Vecchio crosses the river Cynon. No Dantes or Verrochios stroll those lanes. No curled magnifico looks down upon his people from the windows of the big house. The real Florence could exist nowhere else than where it is, below the sweet hills of Fiesole, beside the river where the poets sang; but there, to this day, its reality remains dream enough.

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Salon Travel Contributing Editor Jan Morris has written more than 30 works of travel literature, including "Fifty Years of Europe," "The Matter of Wales," "Hong Kong," "Venice" and "Spain."

Is solo travel worth the risk?

At some point, most women travelers confront a vexing question: Do the rewards of traveling solo merit the risks?

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the irony of it all was how beautiful it was: mountains covered with Christmas trees, decorating the inclines like ornaments; hiking trails for miles; cabins with smoke pluming from their chimney tops; bright stars lighting the sky; the sound of cows mooing and clanking their bells.

Inside one of those cabins, on a bottom bunk in the middle of all this serenity, Laurie Gough’s stomach was turning. First she heard the unzip of the pants, then the big leather boots dropping on the floor, one by one. “Move,” he commanded in a thick Italian accent. And then she could feel him lying on her, all six feet of him, the strong body she once found attractive metamorphosed into something else.

“I kept saying, ‘No, go away, I want to sleep.’ I had my knees up to my chest and was trying to kick him away with my boots, but he was clenching both my wrists back over my head. As soon as you don’t have your arms, you are so powerless.”

Chico — the suave, handsome man she met in northern Italy — raped her that night. He twisted her trust in other people and shaped it into a seething ball of anger. Tore a hole deep inside her.

“I was in shock, I was so filled with anger and betrayal and mad at myself for getting into the situation. I kept thinking, ‘How did this happen, how could I attract such a dark force?’”

At one point or another, a woman traveling alone usually runs into a situation like the one Gough did that afternoon while sitting next to a lake looking at a map. A man comes up to her and asks her to go on a hike into the mountains. She decides to go. Why not, she thinks. Locals know the area better than tourists anyway, and she has taken chances on strangers before — traveled for a couple of weeks with a guy she met in Morocco, spent the night at some guy’s house in London, talked until dawn in a Grecian campground with a backpacker who came up to her from out of the shadows — and everything had turned out OK.

But this time it’s different. This guy leads her far up into the mountains, to a point where the trails splinter off in unknown directions and turning back isn’t an option. They end up staying overnight in an abandoned cabin, and he traps her there for a day.

ironically enough, what attracted — and still attracts — Gough and many
women to traveling alone are moments like the one when she first
encountered Chico: that split second after he asked her to go hiking, right
before she said yes or no, when she had the freedom to decide on her own
what she wanted to do. Did she want to take a risk or not? She didn’t
have to ask anyone else; she didn’t have to consider how her traveling
companion wanted to spend that day. Part of the allure of traveling alone
is having the option to just go, to take chances. You can skip that museum of 16th century paintings and
spend all morning in the cafe next door, or you can bypass the vaunted
tourist town and ride to the end-of-the-line village not even
mentioned in your guide — or you can decide to let a local lead you on a
hike into the mountains.

But when the flip side of having so much freedom is so much pain, is it
worth it to travel alone as a woman? Do the rewards merit the risks? Fear is still the No. 1 factor preventing women from traveling alone. It’s what separates women’s travel from men’s; it’s what keeps women from ever truly answering these questions — because they never take the trip.

For Gough, who experienced one of the worst things that can happen to a woman, and for the ever increasing number of women actually traveling alone, the answer to both questions is yes. It is worth it; it’s like no other type of travel. Your senses
soak up the rawness of the environment, from the slight rustle of the wind to the smell of pine trees after the rain. “When you’re traveling alone, all the impressions, everything you
experience, is unfiltered by anyone else’s comments or preconceived ideas,” says Marybeth Bond, editor of “Travelers’
Tales: A Woman’s World,” a collection of travel stories by women. “So you
are bombarded with everything. This allows you the freedom to experience
the world unfiltered. The result is that you are living intensely, you
are very much more tuned into your own impressions because you aren’t
bouncing them off anyone else.”

Two hundred thirty-eight million women traveled alone or with other women in 1995, according to an NBC report, and that’s not just women between college and their first job. More women from all age groups are traveling — and often alone, says Nanette Cowardin-Lee, editor of “Maiden Voyages,” a travel magazine exclusively for women. Some have just finished college, some are just ending marriages, some are widowed.

“Our readers are women who aren’t waiting for their honeymoon to go
travel,” says Cowardin-Lee. “They don’t wait for a boyfriend to come
along to go to the Caribbean; they go by themselves.”

I took my first trip alone — to Greece — only
seven days after graduating from college. After traveling for about 24
hours straight (I had far too many layovers), I arrived in Mykonos, a small
island about six hours by ferry from Athens. A Cycladic island, Mykonos
resembles all those advertisements you’ve seen for Greece, where cubelike white buildings cover whole mountainsides and the backdrop is always the blue, blue Aegean.

It was 11 o’clock at night and after hiking up the winding streets, I found
a pension that was built into the hillside, its entrance on the street and
the rooms following the hill down. I got settled, took a shower and sat
out on my balcony overlooking the sea, which was partially lit from the
businesses around the port. As night quieted the town, I slowed down too.
I leaned back in my chair and stared down at the sea and the barely visible
silhouette of a cross atop a small church. A faint rhythm from a
discotheque sounded sporadically; otherwise, the night was silent. For two hours I sat on that balcony, alone, my thoughts uninterrupted by anyone else’s words or gestures. I didn’t have to
placate anyone by looking to the left or to the right, to see what someone
else thought was important for me to see. I stared only in my own blank
direction.

That moment and all the moments that followed during my three-month trip
were completely mine. I sunbathed topless when I felt like it. I smoked
as many cigarettes as I wanted. I engaged in random conversations for the hell
of it. They were vignettes strung together only by me, for me; they define
me in a way that can never be conveyed when someone back home asks the predictable, “How was
your trip?” Traveling alone is like having a diary filled with
scribbled-on pages that you never want anyone else to see.

And, like a painful entry in that diary, on that same trip to Greece, in Rethymnon, Crete, an
end-of-dinner kiss turned into a near-date rape when the local
man I had gone out with pinned me against a wall, all to the peaceful
rhythm of the Aegean lapping against the shore. And a few days later, a couple of hours down the
coast in Hania, a pharmacist gave a fake diagnosis for a skin rash I was
having and dragged me into the back room of his shop so he could rub
“special ointment” on my body. Since the bottle was written in Greek, I
didn’t find out till later, after running out of the shop broken in a
million pieces, that the ointment was a generic drugstore moisturizing lotion.

It’s so easy when traveling to think
that you’re in Vacationland, a version of Disneyland, where all the
animated characters around you, with the smiling faces, have altruistic
intentions behind their masks. Even if you think your gut is the most instinct-laden organ on the planet — as I thought mine was — you could still end up in a horrible situation. I’m now wary of everyone, even those pruned-up
fishermen sitting by the docks on a bench, the kind in the postcards, who
look like the archetype of a harmless old man. One once offered me about
$10 in drachma to sleep with him.

But still, nothing like what happened to Laurie Gough happened to me. And as
Marybeth Bond says, for most solo women travelers, negative encounters with
men will come in the form of cat calls, dirty looks, pinches and lewd
remarks. If you’re going to travel alone, you should be prepared to encounter these. And you should educate yourself before leaving on your trip, so that you know how local stereotypes and perceptions of women may affect you — and how you can minimize the risks.

“A woman must assume in
other countries that men have seen the worst of Western women, on soaps
like “Dallas,” in videos, sleazy movies and TV shows,” says Bond. “They
often have stereotypes that are very untrue, that Western women are
available and hunting for men. The best way to counteract these stereotypes
is to respond just the way you feel.” As an example, Bond recalls the time
a man propositioned her in the middle of a popular lunch place in India.
She yelled almost everything close to the F-word as loud as she
could, she says, and then she kicked him with her sandaled foot. Despite
the resulting broken toe, Bond swears by verbal public embarrassment — and, uh, toe casts — as a way to thwart unwanted advances.

“I got into a foolish situation by going out to a dance club with another
woman traveler,” says Thalia Zepatos, author of “A Journey of One’s Own:
Uncommon Advice for the Independent Woman Traveler.” “She fell instantly
in love with this guy and offered this guy’s friend to take me home. I
wound up taking a ride home with this man I didn’t know, and he stopped on
a dark road and initiated sex with me. So I got out of the car and walked
home on a beautifully moonlit night.”

It’s common sense, Zepatos says: Don’t be alone with someone you don’t know
completely, and take precautions; minimize the risks. And even in the safety of your hotel room or pension, don’t let down your guard. She uses the analogy
of the repair person who knocks on your door back home. Before allowing
him to enter, you make sure he has the proper credentials. The
same should go for someone who knocks on your hotel door and says he
works there. And just as you would not walk into a busy hotel in downtown Chicago with
only your bathing suit on, don’t do it abroad. Dressing conservatively, and
in keeping with local traditions, is something all the women travelers I spoke
with recommended.

While Zepatos was researching the way women should dress for her book, she
spoke with one woman who traveled through remote parts of Turkey wearing a
halter top and Daisy Duke shorts because she
thought it was her duty to show the local women that in other countries,
women had more — or in this case, less — clothing options. After interviewing
many women, Zepatos says she believes there is a direct correlation between
how modestly a woman dresses and how harassed she gets. Not surprisingly,
the woman in the halter top was heavily harassed.

“It’s incumbent on the woman traveler to dress in the right way so she
doesn’t invite unwanted attention, but also not to alienate the women of the
local culture,” Zepatos says. Camouflage yourself into the local culture as
much as possible and respect the typical woman’s role in that region, agrees
Lynn Ferrin, a travel writer and editor who has been roaming the world for decades. Be
hyper-observant when you first arrive in a country, Zepatos suggests.
Look at how men and women interact on the street. When women meet a man, do
they touch him on the hand or stay away?

“Every culture and religion are different, but basically there is something
the same going on between genders everywhere,” says Zepatos, who believes all women recognize another woman in distress. “I think
that women of many cultures can feel sympathy for foreign women who are
alone and may be the target of some kind of unwarranted attention. They
understand immediately what is going on.”

If uncomfortable on a bus or train, go sit next to a woman or a family,
Zepatos advises. Carry and show pictures of your family or home, or make an
insta-wedding ring by flipping over your stone ring and placing it on the
proper finger.

Toward the end of my trip, I, too, bought a “wedding” ring and told people
my husband was sick and in bed back at the hotel, and I made public
embarrassment one of my weapons. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn’t.
But attention from men seemed to decline in accordance with how stern a
look I gave as I walked through town. And who knows, if Laurie Gough had
read all the books on traveling safely, perhaps her hike would have ended differently. But 10 years later, Gough and all the other women I spoke
with for this article still pack up their bags and travel alone, largely because of a simple belief: The benefits outweigh the risks. “I am more cautious and wary these
days, more suspicious of men’s motives and far less willing to put up with
bullshit,” Gough says. “But if you trust in yourself and the
universe, things usually go OK. You come across these amazing
situations and you meet these interesting local people — and that makes all the hard times worth it.”

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Dawn MacKeen covers health for Newsday.

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