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What a riot | page 1, 2
There's a "Superhemp blowout" in the counterculture mall called the East Village. "Lowest prices @ Woodstock," the sign reads. Other items for sale: "killer beads," glass beads, plastic bongs, glass bongs, metal pipes, aluminum one-hitters, floppy hats, bajas, butterfly pullovers, jeans "100 percent kind," silk prices, lace camisoles, Indian bed spreads. It looks like someone set off a bomb on Haight Street in San Francisco and the debris landed in one mess of giant mass of shade tents and bearded vendors. At the photo booth, a long trailer, guys line up to buy film and disposable cameras. Women stand on top of the trailer, stripping away their halter tops and tiny T-shirts. Down on the ground, the guys back away from the trailer to snap a few shots with disposable cameras. The trailer provides one-hour photo processing, so they can examine their amateur nudie pix on site. 1:25 p.m. Saturday I'm melting. 2:03 p.m. Saturday In the span of one tune, Kid Rock namechecks Heidi Fleiss and riffs "Sweet Home Alabama." The song has something to do with cowboys. Before his last number, the foul-mouthed metal rapper from Detroit introduces a special guest, his sidekick, a midget. "Ladies and Gentlemen, little Jimmy," he says. The sidekick wears a large afro wig and an American flag. Rock's guitarist hits the electric notes to "The Star Spangled Banner." The sidekick flings off the flag. He's wearing a T-shirt. "I am not a fucking midget," it says. Which makes him what? A mascot? 2:42 p.m. Saturday The Woodstockers don't look happy. They wander with their eyes on one place or another, trudging between stages or the concessions or the beer gardens. They clear away piles of trash to sit on the ground. They fall over in the heat. Girlfriends stroke their boyfriends heads, passed out in their laps. The only thing that earns big screams and healthy smiles every time is the camera crane at the side of the stage when it dips down over the audience. I wonder if they look happier on pay per view. 3:04 p.m. Saturday Wyclef Jean, of the Fugees, plays "The Star Spangled Banner," tosses down his guitar, and lights it afire. The sun is far more intense. 3:57 p.m. Saturday "People are really giving us a hard time," one of the blue-shirted medical team tells me. "I'm stationed down there by the light tower. They throw shit at us, steal our stuff. We had to take a woman out yesterday. I'm pretty sure her neck was broken. You can tell because her hands were starting to curl up. Her heart rate was almost non-existent and she was hardly breathing. Her boyfriend didn't want to let her go. I can't wait for Metallica tonight," he says dryly. 5:21 p.m. Saturday Dave Matthews might be the most intelligent frat-rock band to ever fill a summer shed. His music is full of complex tempos and more or less unique instrumentation. But in the middle of "All Along the Watchtower," I realized that it's really just bland frat rock jazzed up with an electronic violin. And his voice bugs the hell out of me. Despite the crowd's enthusiasm, I'm apparently not alone. I'm standing next to a reporter from MTV radio, who is communicating to a small team covering the event. "I just want to be clear," a voice crackles over her walkie-talkie at the end of Matthews' set. "I fucking hate that guy." 6:27 p.m. Saturday Alanis Morissette is prowling the stage in a skirt/pants combo, a long braid down her back. Canadian flags unfurl. Somewhere in the middle of "Hand in My Pocket," I look around and every single woman I can see is singing along and in a synergistic moment, they all raise peace signs in the air. The boys look uninterested, complacent next to their girlfriends. 8:35 p.m. Saturday Irresponsible: There's no other word for Limp Bizkit front man Fred Durst. He's goading the crowd, pumping them up, higher and higher. It's beyond working them into enjoying the show. He's encouraging the pit, working them into a frenzy. He wants people to "smash stuff." "C'mon y'all, c'mon y'all," he shouts. Below him, the pit is a war zone, a sweaty, dirty, roiling mass of vicious guys knocking the fuck out of one another. It's not a fun scene. It's nasty, and people are getting hurt -- bad. Bodies on cardboard stretchers emerge from the audience a couple of times per song. After the last metal-rap hybrid song, the MC comes up onstage to make an announcement. "Please, there are people hurt out there," he pleads. "They are your brothers and sisters. They are under the towers. Please, help the medical team get them out of there. We can't continue the show until we get these dear people out of there. We have a really serious situation out there." A few minutes later, the crowd parts. The kids are hauled off. Tomorrow, at the morning press conference, the staff will announce that 10 people were taken away in ambulances with head injuries. I'm shocked that no one died. 9:27 p.m. Saturday Overheard from some big beefy guy: "Dude, you figure [the pit is] the closest thing to assault and battery that you're going to get without getting arrested." 9:39 p.m. Saturday Rage Against the Machine opens. They work through a set of ideological anti-songs and burn the American flag at the end of their set. Some guys get pissed. 10:05 p.m. Saturday Cardboard sign: "Tits big or small, show all. Will work for sex." 11:00 p.m. Saturday The Chemical Brothers save my weekend. The crowd at the west stage was far thinner since Metallica was playing on the other stage. You could walk right up to the speaker towers. There were women and girls in the very front. The duo opened with "Hey Boy Hey Girl," and nearly everyone from the stage to the light tower jumped up, bouncing together to the beat. The screens behind them and jumbo monitors flashed with quick-cut videos. Within three songs, the security guards at the front of the stage are dancing, leading the crowd to jump up and down, wave their hands side to side. The relentless beats build into huge crescendos and the exultant audience bursts into one giant bouncing mass. A grizzled hippie dances next to a 16-year-old body-popping to the beat. The rhythm overtakes a stoic guy with slicked back hair and a Hustler T-shirt. His head begins to nod, his knees loosen and pretty soon he's waving his hands in the air with the rest of us. Five kids build a go-go platform out of two trash barrels and a piece of plywood. They dance, and no one pulls them down or rushes their stand. Musically, the old-school futurism plays between big beat and break-beat. Vocal snippets from the Bryds and New Order's Bernard Sumner swirl around and fold back into the mix. An hour and 15 minutes later, the Chemical Brothers come back to the stage for an encore. As the opening notes of "The Private Psychedelic Reel" ring out, the weekend's first raindrops fall out of the sky. All at once, all arms lift and the dancers let out a collective yowl. The Chemical Brothers, sheltered by the stage and blinded by the lights, can't have any idea what's going on. They drop the song. The audience looks up at the dark clouds and warm rain falls on smiling faces. 1:15 a.m. Sunday Just before Fatboy Slim went on in the rave hangar you could hear the fireworks bursting above Metallica. Within 15 minutes, the Fatboy Slim set turns into another naked girl woo fest. 10:27 a.m. Sunday Over at the Common Ground cafe, a bunch of beards are passing out blueberry pancakes with real Vermont maple syrup and hibiscus fruit coolers. The prices aren't ridiculous and they have a guy patrolling the area in front of their shack with a broom and dust pan, which makes their space one of the only areas at the entire festival that you don't have to clear a spot just to sit down. A quartet of folk musicians serenades the line. It's an altogether pleasant experience. I pick up a small menu on cheap newsprint. Turns out that the entire operation is run by a group called Twelve Tribes, who have 14 "communities" in places like Hyannis, Mass., and Warsaw, Mo. Their literature proclaims Yashua the prophet. "If you are looking for a nice community where you can do your own thing, you would certainly be wasting your time to come here," their literature reads. "But if you desire to live a life of self-sacrificing love, to experience the deep soul satisfaction of doing what you were created for, we invite you to come for a visit." I get spooked and leave. 11:05 a.m. Sunday Message on graffiti wall: "Keep corporate hands off our music." 12:42 p.m. Sunday Shuffling, loose and mild, Willie Nelson is about the best hangover medicine you could ask for on a Sunday afternoon. Nelson tosses off a weak version of "Amazing Grace" and he gets away with it because, well, he's Willie Nelson. His bluesy six-piece band plays old mountain songs, covers of Hank Williams and Townes Van Zandt tunes and a couple of numbers off "Teatro." Not surprisingly, he doesn't have much of a draw. Woodstockers are sleeping off the rave, or packing their tents. Nelson doesn't seem to mind. 1:14 p.m. Sunday A local politician, speaking from the main stage: "Let me tell you. From Oneida County, we love you. Out there, you're making history." A guy with long, stringy hair and a tie-dye shirt: "We're making you money." 8:30 a.m. Monday Like at least half the people at Woodstock, I scrammed mid-day on Sunday. I figured it was conceivable that Jewel or Megadeth or the Red Hot Chili Peppers would muster a signature transcendent generational moment, like Hendrix playing the finale in 1969, but I wasn't willing to bet a night of sleep on it. Turns out, I might have missed more than I thought. When I woke up, NPR reported a Sunday night riot, complete with bonfires, overturned trailers and looting at the merchandise stands. I tried to imagine where any Woodstocker would have found the energy for it. And then I thought of the scene in "The Day of the Locust" when the sad Angelenos burn through Hollywood. "Their boredom becomes more and more terrible," Nathanael West wrote in 1933. "They realize they've been tricked and burn with resentment. Every day of their lives they read the newspapers and went to the movies. Both fed on lynching, murder, sex crimes, explosions, wrecks, love nests, fires, miracles, revolutions, wars. This daily diet made sophisticates of them. The sun is a joke ... They have been cheated and betrayed."
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