Broadsheet

Carrie Bradshaw: Feminist icon?

In reviews of the decade, the "Sex and the City" star is called both an enemy and a heroine to women

Take the past ten years of feminist activism, all of the many failures and triumphs, and spread these moments across the tabletop of your mind. What image stands out? What face first comes to mind? Hillary Clinton? Angela Merkel? Carrie Bradshaw? 

No need to check your eyes, you read it right: Today, the "Sex and the City" protagonist was declared an icon of the decade by noted feminist author Naomi Wolf. And just this past weekend, the make-believe Manhattanite was blamed by Camilla Long of The Times for kicking off a revolution that has made women increasingly unhappy. To recap: As the decade comes to a close, a fictional sex writer is being credited with both improving and ruining things for real, live women.

Let's take a closer look at these end-of-the-decade claims, shall we? Long's argument is short and simple: "Stuck between the greater promise of true love and the immediate practicality of settling down, Carrie’s choices were somehow our choices," she continues, "For 10 long years, Carrie couldn’t decide, and we couldn’t decide, so we all went shopping." That's all she wrote on that front: Carrie Bradshaw inspired women to shop the pain away; dilemmas about relationships and starting a family were tossed in the trash alongside a mountain of credit card bills.

However, Wolf wrestles with actual issues -- of course. She's a feminist icon in her own right and an enigmatic writer who is sometimes brilliant and sometimes a little cuckoo. In setting up her argument, she writes in the Guardian: "So why am I so sure that Carrie Bradshaw ... is an icon and did as much to shift the culture around certain women's issues as real-life feminist groundbreakers?" It's easy enough in first reading that line to drop the word "certain" and think with a gasp, She's saying that Manolo-collecting fashionista did more for women's issues than actual feminist activists? In truth, though, she's arguing that Bradshaw, and "SATC" in general, shifted the cultural landscape in some very particular and noteworthy ways -- something that has been observed without controversy many times before -- but, sure, she got my attention.

She goes on to herald Candace Bushnell, the author of the New York Observer column that inspired the show -- which makes you wonder why she didn't declare her, the real-life Carrie, an icon of the decade:

Bushnell was brave enough to lay bare the secret -- that for many women the search for love is the same urgent, central, archetypal quest story that for men is played out in war narratives and adventure tales. Bushnell was gutsy enough to disclose that even we serious, accomplished, feminist women spend a lot of time, when we are alone with our female friends, telling stories centered on the men with whom we are romantically entangled, exploring the quality of the love and attraction, the romance and the sex.

It's true, many women are deeply dedicated to ruminating on their romances and charting the emotional vicissitudes of life with their female friends. This is supposed to be the fluff of the "chick lit" aisle, but "SATC" made it seem smart, relevant and less shameful. "She was a writer who arrived in the big city to test her mettle and realise her voice," Wolf argues. "Male writers have structured stories around exactly this character from F Scott Fitzgerald to JD Salinger to Philip Roth; but Carrie showed audiences week after week that a lively female consciousness was as interesting as female sexuality or motherhood or martyrdom -- the tradition(al) role model options." I agree on all these points when they're stated moderately. Carrie Bradshaw isn't the feminist heroine of the decade, but did her character have a tremendous cultural impact? Absolutely.

I initially came to Wolf's argument with an oversized handbag full of caution, because it was just in May that she skewered today's "lifestyle" feminism. She wrote somewhat mockingly of the revolution (of which that fashionable HBO quartet is a large part) that brought about "a breezy vision of hip, smart young women who will take a date to the right-on, woman-friendly sex shop Babeland." Wolf also observed: "That very individualism, which has been great for feminism's rebranding, is also its weakness: It can be fun and frisky, but too often, it's ahistorical and apolitical." The article ended with this kicker: "Feminists are in danger if we don't know our history, and a saucy tattoo and a condom do not a revolution make."

Odd that she would exalt the star of the "SATC" franchise as a female heroine of the decade just half a year after criticizing the very same brand of fluffy feminism for overshadowing politics, no? Wolf wants more balance for today's young feminists, but she seems to be  having a hard time personally striking that balance herself -- and aren't we all! It's tough reconciling contradictions between your political beliefs and personal life, and that's what so much of "Sex and the City" explored -- maybe not from an explicitly feminist perspective but certainly a feminist-influenced one. The show made great stilettoed strides for women, but feminism sure paved the way.

Welcome to the fashion funhouse

Crystal Renn is just a hot model to the casual observer -- but in the industry, she's a revolution
Models.com and V Magazine
Jacquelyn Jablonski and Crystal Renn

"The message is clear: High fashion has no size limit," writes Ben Barry, CEO of an eponymous Toronto modeling agency that specializes in diverse body types, in a gushing blog post about V magazine's upcoming "One Size Fits All" spread. The spread features size 2 model Jacquelyn Jablonski and size 12ish model Crystal Renn in matching outfits "by high-fashion designers including Ralph Lauren, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana -- all famed for favouring very thin models on their catwalks," according to The Daily Mail, whose headline echoes Barry's enthusiasm: "Plus-size Crystal Renn takes on a typically slim model to prove fashion CAN flatter any figure."

Now, I'm a fan of both Crystal Renn and baby steps in the right direction, but "any figure"? "No size limit"? Really? As Broadsheet's Mary Elizabeth Williams observed, "They're like two inches different." Her nine-year-old daughter Lucy, reading over Mom's shoulder, spoke for every average woman I know: "That makes the fashion part of my mind hurt."

But the fashion parts of our minds have little to do with what goes on in fashion professionals' minds. I got Barry -- usually a pretty darn good advocate for real body acceptance and diversity -- on the phone to ask if he seriously thinks this is all that revolutionary. Because as far as I can tell, high fashion still has a size limit -- to wit, a tall, well-proportioned U.S. 12 -- and even that's still more gimmick than game-changer. 

But then, in the same industry where the 5-foot-9 Renn was pronounced "too heavy" at 98 pounds, the 165-pound version of her really is a tremendous departure from the norm -- and indeed, that's what Barry was getting at with his post. "I do see what you see," he laughs, but he reminds me that we're talking about the "fashion funhouse" here. "When real people who aren't in the industry talk about it, they have to, like, jump into a funhouse and realize they're entering a completely distorted world.

"What's revolutionary is the fact that they would even have a stylist dress a size 12-14 model and include her in this." That Renn is not only wearing the same designers and revealing cuts but the same striking colors and bold accessories as Jablonski is what makes him cautiously optimistic. "The argument is always that certain looks appear better on certain bodies, so they can only put a size 2 in a high fashion spread, because it 'looks better.'" Plus models, on the other hand -- and in the fashion funhouse, that means anyone wearing size 6 or above -- are usually dressed in "safe" -- i.e., "boring" -- clothes. Furthermore, as he noted in the blog post, V magazine "is at the top of the high fashion pyramid"; it's one thing for Glamour to toss its average-Jane readers some slightly larger models, but quite another for an industry leader to do so. "'Real' people are years ahead of the fashion industry, so much more advanced in their thinking and what they want to see," said Barry.

Which might explain why, when "real" people look at this ostensibly groundbreaking spread, we actually don't see two wildly different body types. As my friend Jess put it, "Renn just looks like the pre-Photoshop version of the other one" (a line that made Barry guffaw when I relayed it). Jess added that she'd recently watched a tutorial on using Photoshop's "Liquify" tool, and she was pretty sure she could slim Renn down to Jablonski's size, and vice versa, without much effort. Behold the results:

Jess wanted me to stress that she's an amateur who wasn't aiming for perfection and only spent about 10 minutes manipulating the images -- which just underscores how much could be done by a professional taking his or her time. And that, says Barry, is what's really troubling about the V spread, and high fashion images in general -- because of course both Renn and Jablonski have already been retouched in the original photos. "Even the model who's a size 2, she doesn't even look like that," he points out. "We're still terrified to show love handles, cellulite, wrinkles. It's still artifice over authenticity, all in the name of 'art' -- that's always the argument." Those of us who think making a woman's head wider than her hips is something other than an expression of artistic genius are just philistines with no visual sense, evidently.

So yes, this side-by-side spread is a big deal in the fashion world, but that only proves how utterly divorced it still is from the real world. Jezebel's Jenna, a model herself, recently wrote about the busty but otherwise "highly typical (for a straight-size model)" Lara Stone: "The fact that she is seen as a different kind of model for her size is the ultimate indictment of the fashion industry's standards." From where my size 16-18 ass is sitting, the same is true of Crystal Renn -- but then, I don't live in the funhouse. Says Jenna, "Yes, plus-size models are still models, and the fashion industry still makes its money presenting women with images to aspire to that are, for most, unattainable and unrealistic. But if we can change the parameters of the beauty standard even just enough to accommodate tall, enviably proportioned young women who don't have 23-inch waists, then I'd still call that progress of a kind."

 

Nip slip overload

Another day, another starlet and a gust of wind

There's something special about a little flash of the naughty, that glimpse at something never intended for public display. Takes you right back, doesn't it? to the first time you ever spied the goods, that rush of illicit excitement.

And yet, I couldn't suppress a wave of eye-rolling weariness recently when I saw "The New York Post" item that Catherine Zeta-Jones had "inadvertently" given the fans in the orchestra seats a healthy eyeful of her rack during a Broadway performance of "A Little Night Music" – a report her representatives were quick to dispute

Daily, it seems, there's a new "wardrobe malfunction" and an eager paparazzi waiting to catch it. The nip slip – like its kin, the upskirt – seems at once childishly tame and desperately vulgar, residing in the split personality sexual terrain of "Oh my God, I saw a lady part!" and "Hello, I'm a creep with a camera and zoom lens."

If you are a woman of any standing in the world and you have ever experienced the combination of a low-cut top and a gust of wind, your nips are out there for the world to wank to. Scarlet Johansson. J.K. Rowling. Lily Allen. Lady Gaga. Ashley Tisdale. Rachael Ray. Ashlee Simpson. Uma Thurman. Elizabeth Hasselbeck. You know what they all have in common? NIPPLES! Nipples which in certain circumstances have perhaps experienced FRESH AIR! And whose existence has been rigorously confirmed. When earlier this month, seventeen-year-old Miley Cyrus and her bikini top briefly parted ways, the Internet practically imploded. And nearly six years after Janet Jackson's aureola-flaunting Super Bowl performance, not only are people arguing about the trauma of it all, but the American legal system is still figuring out what it all meant. (Bonus points if you can remember which teams were even playing.)

Nobody needs to convince me that boobs are awesome. Nor would I argue that deshabille can't be more exciting than full on nudity. And yet, when there are  blown up images of the nanosecond that an extra centimeter of Beyonce's hooters escaped the constraints of her dance gear (yes, they're out there, and no, I'm not going to help you find them) out there, I have to wonder – why? When Kate Hudson's  and Natalie Portman's near nip slips actually make headlines – when the mere possibility of the exposure of that special area is breathlessly reported, photographed, and analyzed, I must ask, what could possibly be so revelatory under those designer duds? Priceless rubies? Weapons of mass destruction? The lost gold of El Dorado? Dark matter? They're lovely and sexy and all, but seriously – they're nipples. Men show them off all the time and it almost never makes the news.

So while the rumor of a sidelong glimpse of Catherine Zeta-Jones's breasts is kind of silly, and the fact that her publicity team even bothered to tamp it down is equally amusing -- enough already. Because I can guarantee without even seeing them that I know exactly what's under Ms. Zeta-Jones's kimono. They may come in different shapes and sizes and gravitational pulls than mine or yours, but they're the same things that are under everybody else's.

Alyssa Milano's "evolution"

There's a little Snookie in all of us Video

As a native of the Garden State, I've mostly excused myself from the uproar over whether MTV's douche-riddled "Jersey Shore" is just a forty ounce visual chugfest of negative stereotypes. Mostly, I'm impressed at how far self-tanner technology has come since my younger days. But when Alyssa Milano lent herself to a Funny or Die parody of Dove's eye-opening "Evolution" spot, her Snookie-fication could not unnoted. And it proves that with a little help, any girl -- even a Hollywood actress from Brooklyn -- can become a Jersey girl.

The Washington Post's Diane Sawyer crush

Diane Sawyer takes over, Tom Shales gets hot and bothered

On Monday evening, one of the most respected, highly experienced journalists in television, a reporter who has won nearly every award the industry has to offer, took over the anchor desk at ABC's World News. And boy did it get Tom Shales hot and bothered.

Diane Sawyer's debut as an evening news anchor was, by most accounts, a quiet success. The network didn't build up to her ascension to the throne with the fanfare that CBS did when Katie Couric became their evening anchor three years ago. Instead, on the day before her 64th birthday, she slipped into her new role with exactly the same brand of authoritative cool she's known for. She aired a pre-taped interview she'd done with Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, welcomed her Good Morning America successor George Stephanopoulos to discuss healthcare, and rebounded promptly when a teaser about Brittany Murphy showed a shot of Ahmadinejad instead.

The reaction to her first night was likewise generally subdued. "The Baltimore Sun's" critic David Zurawik noted Sawyer's "poise" and "strong presence," while the notoriously error-prone "New York Times'" Alessandra Stanley praised Sawyer's "twinkly warmth,"  which is like praising Oprah Winfrey's for her restraint. And across the Web this morning, little has been made of the new anchor's gender – perhaps because her credentials and performance speak for themselves.

But in "The Washington Post," the stalwart Tom Shales couldn't hold back, getting right to business in the first sentence. "Ideally, the gorgeousness of Diane Sawyer should not be a factor in assessing her performance," he wrote, which is a dead giveaway to what's coming next. Shales then continued to dance around our "leading lady's looks" under the pretense of commenting on the show's numerous close-ups of her. Yet it seems a journalistic stretch to note Sawyer's lack of a brand new set by saying, "even Cleopatra needed a barge." He then went on to compare the graciousness of Ms. Sawyer to that of Grace Kelly, Meryl Streep and Cary Grant. And when he suggested that ABC 's cameras could confidently pull back from their "wonder woman," he explained Sawyer can "hold us captive without seeming to sit in our veritable laps." Still, based on his slavish, get-a-room-already appreciation, we can't help suspecting that Shales would be quite content with the former beauty queen on his lap, whispering sweet headlines.

Court offers Polanski an exit strategy

Judges deny the director's latest request to have his 1977 case dismissed, but tell him how he can get rid of it

The good news: California's 2nd District Court of Appeal rejected Roman Polanski's most recent request for dismissal of all that unpleasant business about his raping a kid and fleeing sentencing. The bad news: The court also spelled out just what Polanski needs to do to really make this all go away. If his team of lawyers would just quit pushing for dismissal and ask instead that the 76-year-old director be sentenced in absentia, the justices "are confident that the trial court could fashion a legal sentence that results in no further incarceration for Polanski." (Polanski, you'll recall, is currently confined to his three-story chalet in Gstaad, which sits on a 19,000 square foot property "nestled along a private road with a view of the surrounding countryside and snow-capped mountains," according to ABC News. He's spending this dark time hanging out with his family, entertaining guests and editing his latest movie, poor thing.)

The justices seem particularly concerned, says Harriet Ryan in the L.A. Times, with sorting out "Polanski's allegations of prosecutorial and judicial misconduct in the original handling of the case" -- memorably conveyed to the public in the 2008 documentary "Roman Polanski: Wanted and Desired" -- "enough so that they took the unusual step of injecting themselves into the details of a specific case." They wrote: "We exhort all participants in this extended drama to place the integrity of the criminal justice system above the desire to punish any one individual, whether for his offense or for his flight." I guess a justice system that punishes both crooked judges and fugitive child rapists is too much to hope for?

Polanski's lawyers haven't said whether they'll be taking the judges' advice, but Loyola Law professor Laurie Levenson told Ryan, "It's a pretty darn good solution for Polanski. This could all go away and we would all kinda scratch our heads and wonder what has taken 30 years."

 

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