T H I S+W E E K

If it's Tuesday,
I must be tipsy

By Jan Morris
Jan Morris drinks her way across Europe

D E P A R T M E N T S

The Surreal Gourmet
By Bob Blumer
Throw a salmon on the barbie

Postmark: Philadelphia
By Mary Elizabeth Williams
City of Brotherly Weirdness

Passages:
"In Light of India"
Beholding Bombay
By Octavio Paz
- Books on India
- Getting there

Readers' Tips and Tales
New York Stories


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L A S T + W E E K

LA S T+W E E K

Tuesday, May 13

Foucault au lait
By David Downie
I pose, therefore I am. "Philocafes" conquer Paris.

A full list of all
Wanderlust articles

| G E T T I N G T H E R E |
i n d i a
People come to India for all sorts of reasons -- from enlightenment and education to drugs (opium huts still line some streets). There are few spots on earth more rich in history, religion, art and culture than India. Everyday life is saturated with religious and historical meaning.

Most flights to India arrive in either Bombay or Delhi, although there are less frequent, more expensive flights to Calcutta and Madras. A journey to India from the United States is both pricey and long, and you're likely to incur severe jet-lag. If you can, arrange for a mid-trip layover. As always, to get the lowest fares, fly in the off-season. The least expensive and most frequent flights depart from London, though most airports in Europe provide direct flights to the country. Land trips from Asia to India still exist, but they often head through Iran, which is forbidden to bearers of U.S. passports.

Visitors to India will need to have a visa in addition to a valid passport. Prices vary depending on whether you wish to leave and reenter the country during your stay. Also, special permits are required when visiting certain regions of the country. Check with your embassy to find out if you're going to any of these regions, then apply for a permit from the Foreigner's Regional Registration Offices at least four weeks before departure.

To travel within the country, trains and buses are your best bet. Foreigners can purchase an Indrail pass, which allows for unlimited travel throughout India. Within cities, buses are cheap and plentiful, but they're often prime areas for pickpockets, so if you're planning to use public transportation, be on your guard. Taxis are also a good method of getting about, but beware of drivers who refuse to use the meter -- or, at least, negotiate the price before you get in the car. More adventurous budget travelers might want to use the auto-rickshaw -- a scooter with a seated buggy on the back -- to venture from one side of town to another. They're dangerous and the drivers are reckless, but they're also affordable and fun.

Before leaving, check with your health insurer to see if you're covered overseas. If not, it's wise to purchase a policy to protect you for the duration of your trip. Keep in mind that even the most careful travelers will probably get sick at least once while traveling in India. Wash, wash and wash some more. Avoid the water -- including salads and ice-cubes. Practice common sense when choosing a place to eat. For example, be sure your food hasn't been sitting in the sun for hours. You may want to carry a mosquito net, and definitely check with your doctor about vaccinations prior to take-off.

PLACES TO CONTACT:

India Tourism

Travel and Tourism: India

Government of India Tourist Office, New York
30 Rockefeller Plaza
15 North Mezzanine
New York NY 10020
(212) 586-4901
Fax: (212) 582-3274

Foreigner's Regional Registration Offices (FRROs):
New Delhi
1st Floor, Hans Bhavan
Tilak Bridge, New Delhi, 110002
011-97-11-3319489

Calcutta
9/1, Gariahat Road
Calcutta 700020.
011-91-33-443301, 011-91-33-2470549

Embassy of India, Washington, D.C.
2107 Massachusetts Ave. NW
Washington DC 20008
(202) 939 7000
Fax: (202) 939 7027
May 20, 1997


A general note about travel information: A wealth of travel-related information is available online from a variety of sources -- guidebook publishers, database "travel agents," government-sponsored tourist information and private sites. You can access such information by doing a destination-based word search using any of the standard search engines. The information above is meant to provide the essentials you need to know before planning a trip. It is not meant to replace a Web search. We strongly encourage you to explore the extraordinary resources of the Internet to find the information best suited to you.

And don't forget our Table Talk area -- another great source of detailed advice!

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