F E A T U R E S

What is it about Paris?
By Don George, Editor
The seductive heart of the City of Light

Philosophy au lait
By David Downie
I pose, therefore I am. "Philocafes" conquer Paris.
- Books on Paris
- Philocafes schedule

D E P A R T M E N T S

The Surreal Gourmet
By Bob Blumer
Asparagus with attitude

Passages:
"Anatomy of Restlessness"
Gone to Timbuctoo
By Bruce Chatwin
- Getting there

Postmark: Los Angeles
Lost in Los Feliz
By Dawn MacKeen
What happens when Madonna, Gwyneth and Brad take over your old neighborhood?
- Books on Los Angeles

Readers' Tips and Tales
Your favorite city in the whole wide world!

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[Salon Wanderlust Marketplace]
Your virtual travel agency



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L A S T + W E E K

Tuesday, May 6

Riding high
By Cintra Wilson
Our resident enfant terrible does the Kentucky Derby

A full list of all
Wanderlust articles

Now spear this!

BY BOB BLUMER | with the price of fresh asparagus tumbling faster than Apple's profits and the seasonal weather enticing us to drag the barbecue out of hibernation, I thought this would be the perfect time to share one of my favorite grill recipes. In truth, calling the following a "recipe" is a bit of a stretch because there is virtually no assembly required, but it serves as a classic reminder that less is more. If there is a subtle art to enhancing the flavors of nature's bounty, this not only qualifies as a recipe, but will forever change the way you think about the ol' spear. My condolences to anyone whose grill is six-feet underwater.


I CAN'T BELIEVE IT'S ASPARAGUS

Ingredients
1 pound fresh asparagus (thick spears)
4 tablespoons robust olive oil
1 teaspoon salt (this may seem like a lot of salt, but it helps draw the flavor out)

1. Trim the tough bottom end of the spear by grasping each end and bending gently until it snaps at its natural point of tenderness (usually the bottom third).
2. Take a carrot peeler and remove the outer skin of the lower portion of the remaining stalk.
3. Place asparagus on a plate. Cover in oil, turning until each spear is thoroughly coated. Sprinkle with salt and turn again.
4. Grill asparagus directly over a hot wood charcoal fire for about 5 minutes, rotating asparagus 1/4-turn every minute or so. Asparagus should show the beginning signs of charring, but not be allowed to blacken entirely.
5. Remove from grill and serve immediately (eating spears with your fingers enhances the experience).

Le Secret: In my humble opinion, real hardwood charcoal (available in most grocery stores as "mesquite") provides the most rewarding grill flavor. This opinion may stem from my difficulty in conceptualizing how petrified lava rocks can duplicate the smoky flavor of natural wood. However, in a bind, a propane grill, ideally spiked with aromatic wood chips, will deliver respectable flavor.
The Adventure Club: Grate wide shavings of Imported Italian Parmesan Reggiano cheese over the top of the finished asparagus.
Shopping Tips: Look for firm stalks with deep green or purplish tips. Also check the bottom end of the spears. If they are dried up, chances are they have been sitting around for too long.
Grilling Notes:

  • Dripping oil may cause flare-ups. Keep a glass or spritzer of water handy to sprinkle on the coals if necessary.
  • Thin spears char very quickly.

Music To Grill By: Burning Spear -- the band, "Marcus Garvey" -- the album, Mango Records.

"You can never beat asparagus to the bathroom"
-- Confucius
May 13, 1997


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Illustration by the Surreal Gourmet.
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The Surreal Gourmet's Web site is located at http://surrealgourmet.com.





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