T H I S+W E E K

Mondo Weirdo:
The strangest food in the world
By Don George, Editor

> Praise the Titanic!
By Doug Cruickshank
Eighty-five years later, they're still going down with the ship

Above the volcano
By Robert Riddell
Blowing off steam at Mexico's newest volcano
-Books on Mexico
-Getting there

D E P A R T M E N T S

The Surreal Gourmet
By Bob Blumer
It's a cocktail! It's a fruit drink! It's -- Supermartini!

Postmark: Alvescot
By Amanda Castleman
Down and out at Watermill Cottage
-Getting there

Passages:
"Into Thin Air"
Inside the Everest disaster
By Jon Krakauer

Readers' Tips and Tales
Drinking and travel


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Wanderlust Marketplace]
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LA S T+W E E K

Tuesday, May 20

If it's Tuesday,
I must be tipsy

By Jan Morris
Jan Morris drinks her way across Europe

A full list of all
Wanderlust articles

Praise the Titanic! page 2


I L L U S T R A T I O N   B Y
R I C H A R D D O W N S

the rich chowder of humans on the Queen gets even richer as the weekend wears on and hundreds of bewildered, spandex-upholstered tourists, a visiting group of students from the Ventura Christian High School, attendees of the Loyola Marymount Ignatians' formal ball and at least two weddings are added to the mix. Wherever I go, I come across small groups of big men in women's clothing, tourists gaping and whispering, teenagers tittering and snorting and serious looking members of the THS who are virtually oblivious to anything that isn't related to the long-gone ship and its ghosts.

While the THS convention includes numerous scheduled talks, video showings, a cocktail party, a Grand Banquet (period dress encouraged) and a roomful of on-sale books and memorabilia, the theme of this year's get-together -- besides the tragedy itself -- is James Cameron's new movie, "Titanic," which is now in post-production and which has attracted a teensy bit of controversy, partly due to a release date that keeps disappearing beyond the horizon like a ship heading off into a frigid sea, partly because Cameron's known as a temperamental perfectionist -- a "rivet counter," as the Titaniacs say -- and partly because it may be the most expensive movie ever made.

If you take the highest budget figure that's been suggested for the Twentieth Century Fox/Paramount co-production -- $200 million -- and add to it the $85 million that recent reports say could be spent on carrying costs, prints and marketing for the leviathan cinematic divertissement, you arrive at a figure that is 40 times what it cost the White Star Line to build the real Titanic (about $7 million in 1912) and more than seven times what poor Michael Cimino spent on his roundly reviled and financially disastrous 1980 movie "Heaven's Gate" (reportedly $40 million, give or take a couple mil).

But the THS, a passionate group of true believers if there ever was one, and the self-appointed guardians of what they see as a massive sarcophagus that should be left at eternal rest 12,500 feet beneath the Atlantic, are also eternal optimists. They talk little during the convention about the gargantuan budget of Cameron's corpulent oceanic opus and speak hopefully about the new movie. Mostly.

Ed Kamuda, who founded the THS in 1963, has a bit part in the film: "I don't like the idea of a shoot-out on the first class stairway, and stuff like that," he remarks. "But when you look around (the set) and see the professionalism, and see that the extras love it -- they want to do a good job -- you swallow your doubt. I just hope it doesn't get washed under all the other extravaganzas -- the flood, the volcano. I'm very anxious to see it. I saw the preview the other night. I almost started to cry. I know it's going to be a good film, despite what everybody else might say about it."

When it comes to the architectural accuracy of the ship Cameron created for his movie, Kamuda's optimism is well-placed. The 775-foot model that was built on the shore near Rosarita Beach, Mexico, is nearly as big as the original (882.5 feet), and the elaborate interior details have been precisely duplicated right down to the gilt scrollwork on the balustrades, the chandeliers and the first-class dining room chairs, all of which were custom made to match the ones used on the Titanic. Even the china in the film was specially manufactured to resemble the real ship's. And a second scale model, 44 feet long and accurate to within 1/16th of an inch, is nearly as detailed. Such meticulous attention to minutiae is impressive, if a bit wacky. It also explains how you get a film budget up to the $200 million mark (though Kevin Costner's "Waterworld" came within splashing distance of that amount and all he had to show for it was a rusty bargeful of bad sculpture, a profoundly lame-brained drama and a couple of close-ups of Jeanne Tripplehorn's lips that must have had Mick Jagger and Steven Tyler weeping with envy).

One afternoon I ask Kamuda what first sparked his interest in the Titanic. "When I was in junior high school in 1952," he tells me, "I came across 'A Great Ship Goes Down' by a reporter named Falwell, a foreign correspondent for the New York Times. It just captivated me. The next year 'Titanic' with Clifton Webb came out in the theaters. I worked in a movie house -- I was supposed to be selling candy at the counter, but I was always looking at the movie. In high school I started researching the Titanic and then, in 1958, the movie of 'A Night to Remember' came along and that did it. I was hooked. And when I started writing to survivors, that really got me."

But there seems to be more to it than that. The THS members are not merely fascinated by the facts, circumstances and personalities related to the disaster. They are enthralled (like the rest of us, only more so) by the near mythological scope of the story. In our ongoing love/hate/devotion/terror relationship to technology and its increasingly epidemic-like possession of our lives, our planet and our future, the iconic nature of the Titanic and its compelling legend pushes all our buttons, or should I say microswitches? At a time when we feel even more anxious about technology and its supposed promise than people did 85 years ago, a cataclysmic failure of a vehicle as glorious as the Titanic is just the sort of titillating nightmare that we can neither bear to think about nor stop thinking about. The Titanic was, after all, the great mothership, the monumental wonder of its time, a technological cocoon that might have been spun from the imagination of Jules Verne with architecture by Piranesi, and the sort of machine of loving grace -- mega-guardian of humanity -- that was to be poetically conjured by Richard Brautigan over a half century later.

In trying to explain the obsession, it's easy enough to evoke millennium fever and its attendant "What's to become of us?" hand-wringing, or to call the Titanic the Challenger shuttle or Flight 800 of its day, a quintessential symbol of human folly, the inevitable result of mortals playing god ("Calling it unsinkable flew in the face of God," one survivor remarked). But for those who believe that God is man's greatest creation, instead of vice versa, perhaps the story resonates for another reason -- like it or not, it distills into the events of a few hours our very own circumstances, and in the most poignant terms. We are alone on a rock in space in the middle of nowhere (or in a sinking ship on an icy sea if you prefer). We can't go back and we don't know what's ahead and nothing can save us -- not love, not religion, not wealth, not charm, not hope, not even the greatest gizmo of all time. Life, as some guru said, is like going to sea in a leaky boat. And thus we are compelled to listen and retell -- to "fabelize" -- any story that encapsulates essential truth with the sort of dramatic sweep of the Titanic disaster.

On Friday night in the elevator to the main deck I'm standing next to a 6-foot-2, 240-pounder in a beaded, blue lace cocktail dress. An elderly tourist glances in our direction and loudly asks, "Why do all these women look like men?" To which his wife replies, "Shush, dear." I walk into the Britannia Salon just as Ken Marschall (a gifted painter with a vast knowledge of the Titanic, who served as a visual consultant on the movie) is beginning his slide presentation. "I'm skating on thin ice here," he announces. "I didn't have a permit to take photos on the set. I had to sneak these."

Meanwhile, over at the IFGE convention they're featuring videos tonight, including "Lips like Elvis" by Cherie "Duke" Bombardier -- "a rant about love, life, polyester, being likened to the King, blurry gender, hair pomade, and the lure of power and frailty of fame." There will also be a film entitled "Deconstructing Daddy" and another interesting sounding video called "Fun Fur."

Unfortunately I don't get to any of them because Marschall's talk goes on for more than two hours. To the audible approval of the audience he rhapsodizes about Cameron's religious commitment to reproducing the Titanic in painstakingly faithful detail, right down to the "buff color of the funnels and the dark green of the winches." To underscore Cameron's commitment to the project, which even his detractors in the press haven't questioned, Marschall tells about the film crew in Halifax eating lobster chowder that was spiked with PCP by a disgruntled worker. "As soon as Cameron knew he'd been dosed," Marschall recalls, "he went over to the crew doctor and said, 'Give me something to make me throw-up.' He didn't want to miss a single day of shooting!" As Marschall continues with an exhaustive explanation of how the Titanic broke in two at the surface (the four-story opening for the dramatic forward grand staircase created a weak point in the superstructure), I wander off down the hallway. Ahead of me, three weary IFGE members, their heels slung over their shoulders, are also calling it a night.

By late Saturday afternoon, I've had about enough of the Titanic. I've seen the eerie wreck footage taken by Dr. Robert Ballard, who discovered the site in 1985; I've gawked at the scale models; avoided buying a T-shirt, a mug or a cap; had Millvina Dean autograph my program; and I've even dropped 60 bucks on "Titanic: An Illustrated History," a handsome coffee-table book written by THS historian Don Lynch and illustrated by Marschall. But I'm getting a little woozy from the whole scene -- the long, musty-smelling corridors, the art deco everything and the continual deluge of Titanic trivia combined with the disorienting, albeit festive, presence of the IFGE constituency. I'm ready for a drink, a double. Fortunately, the Grand Banquet begins at 6:30 in the Grand Salon. Coincidentally, the IFGE reception, "Personal Servant Auction" and awards dinner is also being held tonight, in the Queen's Salon.

As I arrive for the Titanic banquet, the situation in the foyer of the Grand Salon makes it clear that some renegade THS member has finally gone completely overboard with this whole authenticity thing. I can handle the fact that many people are in turn-of-the-century costumes, and the live ragtime music, selected from the White Star Line songbook, nicely evokes the Titanic's brave musicians who came on board to bolster spirits and played as the ship descended. But I question the taste of whoever it was who arranged for an inch of water to cover the carpet at the entrance to tonight's event. "Who thought this was a good idea?" I ask a Queen Mary employee. "Busted water main," he says with a shrug. "We're gettin' it cleaned up as fast as we can." I wade to the bar, order a double martini with four olives, and find my table.

I'm seated with a couple, friends of Dean, who have come all the way from Wales for the convention. The gentleman has a Vandyke beard and is wearing a white tuxedo jacket. His wife is in a beaded black gown. The young woman to my left is dressed in a gray Edwardian-era dress with black velvet trim, which she had specially made. She's carrying an ornate ebony cane with a sterling silver head and clutching a keepsake -- a White Star Line passenger list from a 1931 Atlantic crossing. Elsewhere there are men in naval officer uniforms and women in the type of huge hats you'd expect to encounter on the head of the queen mother at Ascot. One grand dame walks around dragging a 10-foot-long purple feather boa. And a few tables away, Catherine Crosby is wearing the same mink coat that kept her mother warm onboard the Titanic the night of the disaster.

After dinner, Dean gives a funny, rambling talk about the odd questions she gets from reporters. "A Hungarian journalist asked me what I think about Africa," she says with astonishment. "'Well,' I told her, 'I haven't thought anything about Africa at all, but now that you mention it, I think it's very serious!'"

Every now and then I hear a shout from the direction of the IFGE banquet down in the Queen's Salon. The auction must be taking place. The idea is that the bidders buy a personal servant to wait on them at dinner. Among the servants being auctioned off are "GirlJordy," "Miss Angelika," "Miss Sweet 16" and "The Dream Team: Tami K. and Miss Daddy Dumptruck." If the THS master of ceremonies, Lynch, weren't about to announce the Titanic raffle winners, I might sneak over and put in a bid on "The Dream Team." I'll bet Miss Daddy Dumptruck could find out what the hell happened to my cheesecake with strawberry sauce that should have arrived 15 minutes ago.

Even though I spent 20 bucks on raffle tickets, I don't win the lithograph of the Titanic, the Titanic film crew T-shirt, the film crew coffee mug (inscribed "Titanic: Southampton 1912-Mexico 1997") or the bottle of Belfast Special Dry Gin, featuring a color picture of the Titanic's sister ship, Britannic. I'm somewhat placated, however, by the story Lynch tells about visiting Dean at her home in Southampton: "We showed up and she ushered us into her living room," Lynch says. "And you know Millvina is a very gracious lady -- she'd heard that Americans like ice tea and it was a warm day, so she offered us some. Only problem was we couldn't really get it cold. And if you've ever met a Titanic survivor, you'll know why -- they're not real keen on keeping ice cubes around."
May 24, 1997

Douglas Cruickshank's last article for Salon was "Dining in Captivity." Read a review of "Last Dinner on the Titanic", a cookbook collection of recipes from the ocean liner's ill-fated journey.





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