T H I S+W E E K

Mondo Weirdo:
The strangest food in the world
By Don George, Editor

> Praise the Titanic!
By Doug Cruickshank
Eighty-five years later, they're still going down with the ship

Above the volcano
By Robert Riddell
Blowing off steam at Mexico's newest volcano
-Books on Mexico
-Getting there

D E P A R T M E N T S

The Surreal Gourmet
By Bob Blumer
It's a cocktail! It's a fruit drink! It's -- Supermartini!

Postmark: Alvescot
By Amanda Castleman
Down and out at Watermill Cottage
-Getting there

Passages:
"Into Thin Air"
Inside the Everest disaster
By Jon Krakauer

Readers' Tips and Tales
Drinking and travel


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Wanderlust Marketplace]
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LA S T+W E E K

Tuesday, May 20

If it's Tuesday,
I must be tipsy

By Jan Morris
Jan Morris drinks her way across Europe

A full list of all
Wanderlust articles

Praise the Titanic!

GOING DOWN
IN STYLE
AT THE ANNUAL
MEETING OF
THE TITANIC
HISTORICAL
SOCIETY


I L L U S T R A T I O N   B Y
R I C H A R D D O W N S

BY DOUGLAS CRUICKSHANK | it's already a more peculiar weekend than I've anticipated and it hasn't even started yet. Friday morning I'm standing on the gangway to the Queen Mary next to Millvina Dean, a dauntingly energetic British lady. She's squinting intently through thick spectacles, looking at the top of the 220-foot tower that rises from the shore. Suddenly a man throws himself off it. She watches as he dives toward the water, then gets yo-yoed halfway back up by the cable attached to his feet. "My Lord, so that's bungee jumping," Dean says. "And they pay to do it. I should think they'd get paid to do it. Unless, of course, one was sentenced to it for some kind of crime."

A few days and 85 years ago, Dean herself was trussed up and suspended over the sea. However, she was on a different ship. That one was called the Titanic. "I was a wee thing, 9 weeks old," she tells me. "I was put in a sack and the sailors passed me hand over hand to my mother who was in lifeboat No. 14. My father went down with the ship. I missed him all my life, but I never gave the disaster much thought until about 10 years ago; my mother wouldn't speak of it. Then I started hearing from all these people, and now I travel the world to Titanic gatherings. Over summer I'm going to Hamburg and also crossing the Atlantic on the QE2 with some of this group. It'll be only my second crossing. I hope no one's upset by having a Titanic person on board."

The group Dean refers to is the Titanic Historical Society (THS). The two of us, and several hundred others, are on the Queen Mary in Long Beach, Calif., this weekend to attend the society's convention on this 85th anniversary of the Titanic's first and final voyage. Beyond the obvious -- it's the last remaining big ship from the golden age of ocean liner travel -- the Queen Mary is an inspired choice for the convention. It becomes apparent just how inspired as I have a rather Monty Pythonesque breakfast in the ship's Promenade Cafe.

The Queen, launched in 1934, and now called the Queen Mary Hotel, is physically impressive (more than 100 feet longer than the Titanic) and much of its lavish art deco interior has been carefully restored. There are long, dark, wood-paneled hallways, elegant ballrooms, salons, shops, lounges, restaurants, bars, a sun deck, promenade deck, sports deck and enough stairways and odd passages to make getting lost a regular event. There is certainly enough room for more than one small convention. Indeed, there are two being held on board this weekend.

As I sip my coffee and grope my way through the first pages of the L.A. Times, consciousness begins to dawn in my dusky brain. The Southern California sun floods the cafe and I glance around absent-mindedly at the other patrons, 50 or 60 of them. Most are middle-aged and older ladies in smart business suits with matching accessories and nicely coifed hair. There are a few young statuesque model types, one with her hips and improbably ample bosom snugly mummified in a red-sequin mini-dress. In the bad old days, S.J. Perelman would've called her "a balloon smuggler." I drink some more coffee and scan the room again as it slowly occurs to me that there are, in fact, no women dining in the Promenade Cafe this morning -- just me and a few dozen of the folks attending the other convention: a gathering sponsored by the International Foundation for Gender Education (IFGE), a support organization for cross-dressers.



N E X T | A rich chowder of humans





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