The bunny vs. the blue box

Annie's stinks. Ever caught a surprise whiff as you guide stove-top traffic at dinnertime? (Right rear pot cleared for takeoff. Climb to avoid hot and high left front.) The stuff is rank; think sweaty T-shirt marinated in a gym bag for a week. Yet kids, whose palates are usually so delicate, lap it up. Which leads one to wonder, what's in those little hare-festooned envelopes anyway? Heroin? As a matter of fact, it's pretty much the same thing that's in the famous blue box: pasta, cheese, milk, salt. Granted, Annie's has only nine ingredients while Kraft has 20, most of which, nasty as they sound, replace nutrients removed in processing or are naturally occurring and have a long history as additives. Just two Kraft ingredients raise the mercury on the toxic-meter: yellow dyes No. 5 and No. 6, which impart the infamous fluorescent hue.

But from a nutritional perspective, that's the only time Annie's lands a punch. The rest of the match is a draw. Annie's has the same number of calories (Annie's 270, Kraft 260), the same amount of sodium (Annie's 550 mg, Kraft 580 mg), protein (Annie's 10 g, Kraft 9 g) and fiber (Annie's 1 g, Kraft 2 g), and a bit more fat (Annie's 4.6 g, Kraft 2.5 g) and saturated fat (Annie's 2.5 g, Kraft 1 g). But, you sputter, grasping at your last, best argument, "Annie's is organic!" Not so fast, my friend. Only packages labeled organic are organic. Annie's are labeled "totally natural," which means, uh, which means ... whatever you want it to mean, boys and girls! But it sure sounds good, doesn't it? (Obviously aware that its reality lags behind the rhetoric, Annie's has now begun retrofitting its recipe to include mostly organic ingredients.) Still, the truth is that Annie's is hardly healthier than the day-glo orange mac 'n' cheese of the white-bread America of yesteryear.

OK, you whimper, maybe it's not bulgur and lentil loaf, or salmon and spinach or even a peanut butter sandwich on whole grain bread, but Annie's Homegrown offers an important advantage for my family. It's easy. Very easy. And I need easy. After all, I'm A) a Very Important Professional racking up 60 billables weekly, B) an at-home ma/pa who can barely toggle the remote at the end of the day, or C) working through some culinary deficits (can't heat water to 212 degrees F). So sorry to spoil your party. But making pasta with cheese from scratch is just as easy as mixing up a pot of Annie's. Shall we give it a whirl?

OK, you caught me! There is one more step to the homemade: grating the cheese. But dare I say we're talking Food Prep 101 here, a skill slightly above stirring and definitely below chopping. And if you really want to get fancy and actually cook something, you can make a white sauce so the cheese doesn't clump. This forgotten kitchen art is so simple, an 11-year-old child can master it. A white sauce has infinite other applications, including that timeless WASP delicacy, chipped beef on toast. (For the more recherché among you, substitute prosciutto and blanched asparagus.) Or use it as a base for a "cream of," as in cream of asparagus, cream of broccoli, cream of celery, cream of fennel and on through the vegetable alphabet.

Annie's Homegrown out-bads McDonald's and Coca-Cola because it plants a corporate beachhead right there in your family's kitchen. Every time you reach for the rabbit, you're delivering the message that the almighty brand trumps Mom or Dad's efforts any day of the week. So, stand up, please, and receive a heartfelt thank-you from the American food industry. Where would they be without the culinary passivity and anesthetized palate you are so assiduously cultivating in the next generation?

Annie's entry into full-blown brand-dom can be charted at the supermarket. In November, Withey's company acquired its doppelgänger, Annie's Naturals, whose line of salad dressings and Bar-B-Que sauces is also a health food store staple. There is now a whole shelf full of Homegrown products -- mostly pasta-themed, although recently the company has detoured into the unabashedly unhealthy with a grab for the Goldfish market. There is simply no way to get a child past this section with its hundreds of Joe Camel-like logos beaming come-hither messages, unless you forcibly hold his or her head in the other direction.

My personal battle with Bernie & Co. is already lost. Take a peek in my cupboards and you'll find a couple of boxes of Annie's Shells & White Cheddar (the original), or one of the many other cheesy iterations (Curly Fettuccine With White Cheddar and Broccoli Sauce, D. W. Whole Wheat Pasta & Alfredo, Microwavable Mac & Cheese Meals, etc.). But while I've surrendered on the instant pasta, for principle's sake, I feel I need to draw the line somewhere. I swear, not a single Annie's Cheddar Bunny will cross my threshold. Or Bunny Graham. Or Bernie O. Or Organic Cheeseburger Macaroni Skillet Meal. Do you think we can get them to sign a nonproliferation treaty?

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1 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. white flour
1/2 to 2 cups milk

Melt butter in small frying pan over medium heat. Add flour and whisk until a smooth paste is formed. Add a tablespoon or so of milk and whisk until smooth. Repeat process until desired consistency is reached. For cheese sauce or as base for soup, this should be somewhere between ketchup and heavy cream. Remove from heat.

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