Coffee and tea

Artist's little helper

Fred Tomaselli's work offers the experience of taking drugs in the safest possible way -- through the eyes.

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Artist's little helper

The art preparators are coming to pack Fred Tomaselli’s enormous new work, “Gravity’s Rainbow,” and move it from his Williamsburg studio to the Philip Morris branch of the Whitney Museum. The show opens on Oct. 29, and now, at the 11th hour, Fred is pondering whether the 8-by-20 piece that seemed so large and ambitious while he was making it, is actually large and ambitious enough for the occasion. These are hard factors to assess in a city where an artist finds himself competing with the likes of the Empire State Building for size, beauty and lasting impressions.

Tomaselli creates gorgeously pristine paintings characterized by mesmerizing patterns and a precise order that reference both early American Shaker quilts and latter-day psychedelic hippie art. Like much of his earlier work, “Gravity’s Rainbow” is constructed from complexly overlapping garlands of pharmaceutical drugs strung like beads on a necklace. Hemp, datura leaves and cut-outs of lips, eyes, hands, birds, reptiles and bugs are draped in inverted rainbows of color against a deep black background, which makes the images appear to float in space. Layered over the real pills are garlands of painted pills. This creates a tension between the real, the photographic and the painted that is totally deceiving from a distance and rather mesmerizing up close, and provides a humorous and ironic commentary on the allure of mind-altering experiences and the unreliability of perception. The drugs, enough in any given piece to create a healthy overdose, are safely sealed away from use — in enough resin to kill the average human being. His ironic play with the toxicity of beauty is a recurring theme in his exploration of the sublime.

Tomaselli, who grew up in the shadow of Disneyland, a self-professed “stoner without ideology,” is on a quest for the sublime in places that would make the average new-age guru cringe. He traces parallels between Thoreau’s cabin at Walden Pond and David Koresh’s compound at Waco; between the pre-digital immersive realities of the theme park, a gourmet trek to the top of Mount Everest and the transcendent hallucinogenic effects of LSD. All express a deep longing for a utopian experience that is, all too often, quenched with a “mother’s little helper” or a stiff drink. It is through Tomaselli’s appreciation of the seductive jewel-like qualities of these “mother’s little helpers” that he finds the prima materia for his work.

Despite the title of the piece, Tomaselli resists allusions to the Thomas Pynchon novel “Gravity’s Rainbow,” except to say that he was enchanted by the inexhaustible hallucinogenic vision of Pynchon’s masterpiece about the German blitz on London. He fought like hell against using it as his own title, but unfortunately, once the idea crossed his mind, the layering of brightly colored inverted rainbows won out. Now there is nothing left to do but dread a future full of well-informed questions about the connection to Pynchon.

On a tour through the studio, Tomaselli shows me flat files filled with sheets of calibrated paper cutouts of birds, flowers, body parts, hemp and datura leaves — the tiny bits of things that make up the pixels, binary code, the DNA of his massive painting. What less could you expect from a guy with obsessive-compulsive tendencies who grew up on the modular delights of Legos, Lincoln Logs and the Erector Set?

Other supplies include a box filled with datura pods, known alternately as Jimson weed, a powerful legal hallucinogen used in native cultures to wrestle with the forces of darkness. Another box contains branches of the ephedra bush, a strong but also legal stimulant known as Mormon Tea after its use by Joseph Smith’s followers. He also often uses belladonna in his paintings, so named by the Victorians because it was thought to enhance feminine beauty by dilating the pupils and making women languorous and compliant. Belladonna is the norm in the cultural history of intoxicants. We like our women sedated — whether it is with morphine, valium, Prozac or heroin — and disdain women’s use of disinhibiting drugs like alcohol and cocaine.

Despite their potency, the datura, ephedra and belladonna all look like dull desiccated weeds. Not so with the thousands of brightly colored pills that are neatly divided into boxes of white rounds, colored rounds, white capsules and colored capsules. The sheer abundance is mesmerizing and raises the question: Where did you get all this stuff? From outdated samples, friends’ old prescriptions, anonymous donations in the mail and bulk orders of nonprescription drugs from a wholesaler. It is a virtual waterfall of free drugs.

In the early days of his drug paintings, Tomaselli used all kinds of illegal substances in his work, but today he is leery of the black market for fear of having his paintings seized in customs as they travel to shows around the world. Besides, most street drugs, no matter how powerful, aren’t nearly as pretty as the ones manufactured by pharmaceutical companies, which design their product in sophisticated, ravishing color combinations unique to each brand.

Fred points out that the soothing sea-foam green and beige of a Prozac capsule matches its soothing “prosaic” name and function. He demonstrates the way “Zoloft” rolls off your tongue on an onomatopoetic cloud of good feeling. Someday he’d like to meet one of these drug designers and have a heart-to-heart about color, form and the suggestive power of names.

Despite the quantity of drugs in his work, it is not entirely about drugs. Rather, it is about our quest for the sublime in a mediated reality that seduces us with beauty while masking the shadow side of terror and death. The obvious reason for the enchanting appearance of each gorgeous pill is that they are meant to be swallowed (and, as in “Alice in Wonderland,” the right one must be swallowed for the desired effect). The not-so-obvious reason is so that a paramedic on the scene or a frantic 911 caller can diagnose an overdose based on the description of a pill.

Tomaselli likens his work to a Proustian experience — drugs are his generation’s madeleine. Even without a deep hallucinogenic drug backlog to draw upon, the jewel-like quality of pharmaceutical drugs elicits the stimulating and subduing effects of the many substances, legal and illegal, that alter one’s ordinary waking consciousness.

But all drugs are not created equal. Historically, they don’t even produce the same kind of art work. Despite the reputation of the ’60s for wild, drug-ridden abandon, the art of the time was highly regimented and detailed. Op art, pop art and the obsessive detail and overall patterning of hallucinogenic art, macrami and even cheap imported tapestries matched the introspective pothead predisposition for obsessing on tiny details. This was definitely not the art of the bohemian ’50s, when the disinhibiting properties of alcohol fueled the aggressive gestures of abstract expressionism. Just try to imagine Jackson Pollock sitting still long enough to look for a universe in the head of a pin.

Tomaselli is from another generation altogether. He is well-versed in how the hippie dream crashed and burned on the shoals of disco and cocaine (much the same way that modernism fell apart in the face of postmodernism). Tomaselli began picking through the rubble from a punk rock perspective, redeeming aspects of both, and exploring the toxic nature of beauty. He is not a crusader for political change in drug policy, despite some of its obvious absurdities. He is an artist tackling issues art can carry.

But hallucinogens do not great painters make. Even though the work is a direct result of his quest for the sublime through the hallucinogenic experience, there is no way he could create anything of lasting beauty on peyote or acid. Coffee and cigarettes are the dominant drugs of choice for this kind of work. Hallucinogens just take too damn much time, and render the user too dysfunctional, which is why alcohol, tobacco and stimulants are the drugs of capitalism.

Tomaselli sees no irony — or better yet, an irony too obvious to point out — in exhibiting his work in a space sponsored by Philip Morris. Ten years ago, before the tobacco industry settlement, it was considered a mark of bad faith in the art world to accept funds from the tobacco giants. Times have changed and nanny culture has moved on to gun manufacturers and elephant dung. The anti-smoking campaign has once again made cigarettes a medium for teenage rebellion.

Tomaselli is neither defiantly proud to be a smoker, nor desperate to quit. He’s just addicted. I also think that the pariah status of the smoker allows Tomaselli time and space to think when he’s exiled from the dinner table. Not to mention that he finds the cigarettes a fantastic coping mechanism to accompany the obsessive-compulsive nature of his work. He even uses the filter end of the cigarette as a tool to create the perfect painted pseudo pills and capsules that enhance the piece. An earlier piece, “Dermal Delivery,” is an ode to an adventure in smoking cessation, incorporating nicotine patches with paper cut-outs of body parts. He tried adding a garland of cigarette butts to “Gravity’s Rainbow,” but they were simply too ugly to make the grade. A dead cigarette simply does not hold the jewel-like promise of a pill.

Once “Gravity’s Rainbow” is off to the Whitney, we head to lunch at Ozmot’s Dish, a resurrected storefront covered in Orientalist patterns of ceramic tile with an undulating suspended ceiling and Eames chairs. Always conscious of what people expect to see, he wanted to deliver the new scenic Williamsburg of escalating property values and critical mass hipsterism, rather than the ordinary working class neighborhood he’s lived in since first arriving in New York fourteen years ago (around the time when most self-respecting emerging artists were living in the East Village).

Raised in Orange County, Calif. (one of those places that make you stronger if it doesn’t kill you first), Tomaselli could see Tinkerbell from his roof with binoculars. Aside from his Swiss immigrant parents driving Fred and his five younger brothers and sisters across the Mojave desert in search of an Alpine experience, he had no real contact with nature. The closest thing to it he ever saw was Tom Sawyer’s Island in the Magic Kingdom down the street. He was genuinely shocked when he couldn’t find the plumbing apparatus behind the first actual waterfall he ever saw.

Despite early attempts, Tomaselli was never mellow enough to make a very good hippie. He cut a straight line through Bowie and the New York Dolls on his way to the Sex Pistols and the L.A. punk scene. Soon, he was disenchanted by the rabid orthodoxies of the punk experience, and by its invasion by suburban kids who missed the whole point. He was also tired of its nihilism, and wanted to re-explore the transcendental properties of hippie-ism from his new perspective. Having run out of options in L.A. after losing his loft, his girlfriend, his job and his gallery, but with enough money in his pocket from selling his art to get on a plane, Tomaselli moved to New York sight unseen.

It was probably for the best that Tomaselli couldn’t afford to live in the East Village in the mid-80′s. That was not a moment when his penchant for slowly crafting beautiful and luminescent works of art would have been particularly appreciated. If Artforum is to be believed, most of those artists are taking their East Village gallery debuts off their résumés anyway. By now, however, Fred has caught up with the times, although he briefly wonders when people will start taking the Williamsburg experience off their résumés. He plans to outlive his neighborhoods current artist-infested chic as well.

Now after a decade and a half of life in the wilds of Brooklyn, Tomaselli is something of an urban naturalist. He kayaks on the East River and grows figs in his backyard. Its not exactly Grizzly Adams, but then again, the wilderness experience of the average American is the national park system — something he dismisses as just another theme park where everyone tromps around in polar fleece, Gore-Tex and carbon fiber — with all the Native Americans and hostile wildlife taken out. He’s no idiot, he does it too, but he doesn’t kid himself that this is anything but a gourmet experience of nature with all its discomforts eradicated.

He thinks this return to nature and the current obsession with gourmet foods, wines and cigars dates back to the hippie quest for good pot. He also credits the ritual of dropping acid in the woods, handed down from one hippie to another and culminating in the requisite semi-mystical “oh, wow man, now I get it” experience, with the founding of the ecology movement and the eco-tourism industry. He has an armchair fascination with extreme tales of nature rearing its ferocious head and snapping off some unsuspecting urbanites frozen limb. It is only then that we realize that nature is the real thing and not some fiction created for the benefit of weekend warriors.

At this point, Tomaselli is between dealers, courting prospective galleries and trying to make the best choice for the next phase of his career. But this is a good position to be in for an artist who has a show opening at a branch of a major American museum, a large-scale work that will probably be acquired by a museum collection, and a waiting list for new work. He’s even finally conceded to do what he calls a “chemical celestial portrait” of tennis star and art dealer/collector John McEnroe, a portrait of the inner and outer space of the subject based on his birth date and astrological chart. The stars are all renamed according to the person’s loosely defined “drug history.” Tomaselli prompts the memory through a questionnaire of potential chemical compounds — ranging from cold medicines to licit, illicit and prescription drugs, including banal substances like caffeine and chocolate — that might make up the man. The future holds the Lyon Biennial in France and a book project with writer Rick Moody for the Whitney Museum Library, which, according to Tomaselli, will be expensive, rare and collectible … and available soon in a store near you.

Tomaselli says he never expected to quit his day job and that it is actually a little weird (after years of sheet-rocking and crating and shipping other more successful artists’ work) to be making a decent living selling his art. In fact, after walking through the wild sides of hippie transcendentalism and punk rock nihilism, he marvels at his current status as a husband, father, taxpayer, homeowner and general all-around upstanding citizen who can pay his bills.

With the show set to open, Fred wonders whether he will be the next stop on Giuliani’s Helmsian (as in Jesse) tour through the New York art world. When it comes to spending public funds on art projects, Tomaselli feels like the citizens of New York are subsidizing Giuliani’s engagement in an absurd form of performance art: surfing the polls while making unsuccessful and inane attacks on the First Amendment. (It occurs to me that if Giuliani wins his fight to evict the Brooklyn Museum, Steve Wynn may just step up, buy the entire $1 billion art collection and ship it to Vegas. The totem poles and Winslow Homers will become one more stop on a tour through a fake New York, a fake Egypt and a fake Italy. As far as mediated immersive realities, Vegas has L.A. and New York beat hands down.)

In a country where we have such deeply conflicted feelings about the acceptable forms of pleasure, Tomaselli offers up the utopian experience of taking drugs in the safest way he knows how: through the eyes, rather than the bloodstream. The sober mind can then come up with its own wild conclusions.

Susan Emerling is a feature film and documentary writer who lives in New York and Los Angeles. Her most recent film, "Robert Zemeckis on Drinking, Drugging and Smoking in America: The Pursuit of Happiness" premiered on Showtime in September.

Floppy with your Frappuccino?

Starbucks, flying under the radar with Circadia Coffee House, woos the tech crowd.

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Of all the places you might end up frittering away an afternoon over multiple cappuccinos reading the latest Barbara Kingsolver or debating the merits of Michael Jordan’s retirement, Starbucks is probably not one of them. At best, the omnipresent coffee bar is a place to grab your cardboard cup of caffeine and split. And though a new Starbucks may stir the hearts of suburban moms who can finally get a decent decaf mocha in their local strip mall, there’s a certain amount of anti-Starbucks backlash among urban dwellers — who consider it their duty to favor neighborhood coffeehouses where the tables are worn smooth by many underemployed elbows.

But Starbucks has something new up its sleeve. It’s called Circadia Coffee House, and it is already secretly charming the hip, anti-Starbucks types in San Francisco who want a place for their laptops and their lattes.

“Consider Circadia an update of the typical New York or European coffee house for today’s age,” says Gail DiSantis, Circadia’s project manager in San Francisco. The cafe is wired to provide Internet access from each table and grouping of well-worn couches and armchairs. (Network access is free for now, but that might change.) In addition to a menu that ranges from focaccia sandwiches to espresso fondue, Compaq laptops can be rented for $9.50 an hour. Telephones that take credit cards are stashed on end tables. Floppy disks, at $1, are less than half the price of a Frappuccino.

At Circadia, being digital is encouraged by the customers and the staff. “Talking on a cellular phone or working at a computer is not considered pretentious here,” says Chip Hall, an independent technology business consultant who has adopted Circadia as his meeting place of choice. One recent Tuesday morning before 8 a.m., there were already three patrons tapping away on their laptops.

But Circadia is not simply a cyber-cafe. Like the cafe’s Starbucks parentage itself, the technology is artfully hidden behind an eclectic mix of furnishings designed to feel like an arty, independent establishment.

Circadia is built into the corner of a former San Francisco warehouse at Mariposa and Bryant streets, an industrial area home to a growing number of start-up technology companies that eschew the office parks and traffic jams of Silicon Valley. To soften the warehouse surroundings, red velvet drapes hang from an exposed ceiling to a faux-brick floor. Even the Green Room — a conference room that can be rented for $50 an hour, including use of a Gateway media wall presentation computer — is more homey than high tech, thanks to an antique wood dining set.

The techy undertone has resonated with the area’s digerati. A few local entrepreneurs already refer to a certain kind of business meeting — too sensitive to carry over office cubicles but not worthy of dinner — as “the Circadia treatment.” On a recent morning, in the space of a few hours, one laptop-toting twentysomething (rumored to be starting an electronic commerce venture) moved table to table for three successive business meetings.

“It’s not yet Bucks,” says Bud Rosenthal, referring to the Woodside, Calif., diner where Silicon Valley venture capitalists make deals. But Rosenthal, a Circadia regular and business development manager for the Springfield Project (a to-be-announced Internet start-up), says he often bumps into contacts he hopes will be good for business.

Starbucks is counting on such serendipity for Circadia itself. Since the cafe’s Nov. 28 opening, not a penny of the company’s marketing budget has been put toward the flagship San Francisco Circadia — DiSantis says the company is relying on neighborhood word-of-mouth. According to Taylor Fogelquist, a host from KQED, the local National Public Radio station across the street, it’s working: “I use it for everything. Coffee in the morning, meetings for work and otherwise and a comfortable place to hear good jazz on the weekends.”

Fogelquist seems to have caught on to the subtlety of the name Circadia as well. A reference to circadian rhythms, the behavioral rhythms associated with the 24-hour cycles of the earth’s rotation, the cafe also has a full bar and stage for evening concerts and poetry readings (held each Monday), making it an environment for all times of the day. But Rosenthal says he did not even see the bar until he had spent more than a month frequenting Circadia: “I had never taken my head out of my computer long enough to notice.”

The subtle clues to the cafe’s ownership by Starbucks are also easy to miss. Hall says when he noticed Starbucks’ trademark coffees on the menu, the staff went out of their way not to make the connection. “Initially they told me they only served their coffee,” he recalls. Assistant manager Andrew Wilson says that’s changed: Like people at a support group who can finally admit their condition, he says the staff is proud of their Starbucks affiliation and does not aim to hide it.

Don’t expect Circadia to stay quiet long, about Starbucks or otherwise. DiSantis says business in December was adequate, but if she has the same bottom line in January and February, she’ll be adopting more grandiose marketing plans. If the San Francisco prototype is successful, the next Circadia may open in New York, says Wilson. “But it will never be on every street corner. It is a one or two per city concept.”

There are already hints of bigger promotions to come: The cafe may not yet have a Web site, but it has valet parking and sells T-shirts and baseball caps in addition to Starbucks coffee beans, mugs, etc. What neighborhood joint sells clothing before it has been around two months? One owned by Starbucks, and proud of it.

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Deborah Claymon is managing editor of CNET News.com television, a weekly technology business program on CNBC.

London, England

There's more to London than the Savoy and the Tate -- like erotic exhibitions, cappuccino shops and Dickens' commode.

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London, England — The inevitable deluge started weeks before my husband and I
departed for London. The suggestions. The questions. The advice.
Friends who’d never been there vicariously vacationed via our itinerary;
relations who’d breezed through the city in two days in 1978 assumed an
expertise. “Will you be going to the Tate?” “Oh, you’ve got to do the
British Museum.” “Let me tell you about the National Portrait Gallery.”
“Are you having high tea at the Savoy?” “Or the Ritz?” I listened patiently
to all of it, while in my mind, two words kept repeating over and over:
Screw That.

As it happened, I was already on intimate terms with the seat of
kings and Carnaby Street. I’d lived for a year in London during my college
days, and had managed to make a few brief return visits since. But even
though the last time I’d set foot on English soil had been in 1990, I still
had not worked up to wildly missing its stuffy old museums and milky tea.

So I didn’t go to the Tate. Instead I sought out London’s more
decidedly eccentric museums. And I didn’t drown myself in tea. Rather I
indulged in the daring new flavor sensation the British had discovered
since I’d last visited — coffee.

Coffee culture took the scenic route to England:
Continental-style cafes had to first catch on here in the colonies before
leaping successfully back over the pond. Frankly, I credit Seattle. I
imagine upstart English cappuccino mavens getting wind of a company called
Starbucks and thinking, “There seems to be a predisposition for latte
addiction in cold, damp cities with lots of bookstores and a hip music
scene. Sayyy …” Whatever the reason, England’s biggest tastemaker right
now is neither Elizabeth Hurley nor Liam Gallagher, but Juan Valdez. In
London, you can’t swing an official Manchester United scarf without
whacking into an Aroma — the hot new coffee bar chain that audaciously
proves that Brits are as adept at foaming milk as they are at blending tea
leaves.

I’d anticipated some changes in the town’s terrain, but by God,
this was a new one. And it was at once both oddly comforting and downright
unnerving to find myself in the midst of a java explosion. On the one hand,
I admit that I am powerless over my mochaccino habit, and the fact that I
was able to slake it during my trip probably staved off a midweek freakout.
On the other hand, there is something profoundly disturbing about seeing a
“Seattle Coffee Company” a stone’s throw from Covent Garden, or a brand new Bodum superstore being built on Kings Road. French press coffee plungers rolling into the city by the truckload — I’d have sooner imagined Camilla Parker Bowles becoming queen than this.

If, after centuries of contented, isolationist tea drinking, London
can suddenly embrace the cappuccino-sipping, biscotti-dunking habits of our
Pacific Northwest brethren, perhaps the sun truly is setting on the empire.
I hadn’t expected London to stay frozen in time, Austin Powers-style, all
these years — this after all is now the London of Tony Blair, an
all-but-defunct monarchy, advanced dentistry and even exquisite, non
sausage-based haute cuisine. Even so, if you ever want to rock your
idealistic notions that anything on earth has any permanence, go watch a
Londoner deftly order a decaf Sumatra blend latte with a shot of vanilla
syrup.

Despite the inevitable, times-a-changing mood, it was heartening to
see that some things about London do remain constant. The ravens still
stroll the grounds of the Tower; bushy-capped guards still prance in front
of the Palace; and the Victoria and Albert, the Tate and their like still
reel in the visitors. As my spouse and I sat outside the British Museum
sunning ourselves one afternoon, I couldn’t help but marvel at the
Paddington Station-like stream of human traffic coming in and out. Five
million visitors a year pass through the British Museum. This year, we were
not among them. Maybe it’s heresy to laze within spitting distance of one
of the world’s premiere museums and not cross its portals, but I had other
great works on my mind. Like vacuum cleaners.

A yearning for some Bauhaus-based pleasures led me London’s Design
Museum — a temple to the magnificence of form and function that brims with items both practical (dig that Tupperware!) and ridiculous (a Phillipe
Stark teapot that originally came with the warning “Do not touch while
hot”). The Design Museum, housed in a former warehouse in the rapidly
yuppifying Butler’s Wharf neighborhood, could never be accused of not
upholding the image its name implies. The gift shop sells trash cans too
elegant to ever throw any actual garbage into, and even the toilet paper
dispenser in the ladies’ room is a paragon of crisp efficiency.

The museum is a haven for the kinds of exhibits you won’t find
anywhere else. When I visited, the institution was hosting an extensive
tribute to a fabulous new vacuum cleaner, currently only available in
Japan. I educated myself about how expensive and wasteful vacuum bags are
and how the arduous process of creating a reusable dust repository had
baffled designers for decades. As I at last feasted my eyes on the chic
little pink and gray final product, I felt a fascination with vacuuming
that has never once encroached upon my own domestic Hoover pushing.

But the highlight of the Design Museum was the special exhibition
devoted to “The Power of Erotic Design” that’s running through Oct. 12.
Here were all manner of sexy household goods for my consumerist
delectation. Some were subtly sensual — a fluidly designed Carlo Mollino
coffee table that vaguely suggested a woman’s back, a curvy crystal perfume
bottle reminiscent of a pair of pouty lips. And some designs were a little
more obvious — like the leather-clad mannequin serving as a hat rack, or
the impressive array of ancient dildos. My favorite item was Sigmund
Freud’s chair — supple, broad on top, plumply cushioned. It was the kind
of thing I can’t imagine anyone resting his body in all day and arising
again without absorbing a whole lot of Mommy issues. Could the National
Portrait Gallery offer such insights? I think not.

Further along the Thames, right near the National Theater,
is another museum that’s not your usual Rembrandtfest — the big, brassy
and excessively playful Museum of the Moving Image. “Whoever designed this
place must have been completely out of his mind,” whispered my spouse as we
stood in the glow of a “Spitting Image” puppet display. Indeed, the museum
oozes loopy charm. That sacred cow of film students, “Potemkin,” is
screened in a proletariat-friendly meeting room while a museum employee
waxes enthusiastic in a hilariously fake Russian accent. A D.W. Griffith
clone brandishes a riding crop and barks choreography instructions to a
group of young visitors, who obligingly offer their best shuffle-shuffle-kick steps. There’s memorabilia from the earliest days of cinematography to
“Star Wars,” even classes in creating your own cartoons. And everywhere you
go, staffers dressed as movie ushers, inventors and casting directors pull
you into the action in truly cinematic style. Of course it’s hokey. But
wouldn’t the Smithsonian be so much more entertaining if instead of just
displaying the Fonz’s jacket, it
had its own Fonz to “Ayyy” all day at the passers-by?

The MOMI and the Design Museum may exude a hip, modern allure, but
London’s more unusual museums aren’t necessarily the most cutting-edge. At
Charles Dickens’s small, inauspicious-looking house in Bloomsbury, we
sought inspiration from the vibes off the desk at which he wrote “Oliver
Twist,” we peered out the window at the same view the author once enjoyed
and we got close to his private side. Plenty close. “Look at this,” sighed
my husband as he lovingly ran his fingers along a dark wooden chaise. “I
can’t believe I’m touching the same chair Dickens sat on.” “He did more
than sit on it, honey,” I replied, lifting the seat. “That’s his commode.”
Once you’ve peered into a great man’s chamber pot, you’ve seen all you need
to see.

What is so appealing about London is all that is constant about it
– the chimes of Big Ben, the bookshops of Charing Cross Road, the
cholesterol a-go-go rashers and eggs breakfasts. But equally enticing is
all that’s novel about it. I came to London and asked it to surprise me.
And it did. Instead of the Rosetta Stone I found oversexed household
appliances; instead of tea at elevenses I found afternoon espresso.
London’s got a brand new bag — and it ain’t filled with Darjeeling.

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Mary Elizabeth Williams

Mary Elizabeth Williams is a staff writer for Salon and the author of "Gimme Shelter: My Three Years Searching for the American Dream." Follow her on Twitter: @embeedub.

Time for one thing: A cup of tea

The virtues of a cup of tea.

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My grandmother, Arshalous, came through Ellis Island during the Great Depression with two small children, a husband, no money and no idea where she was going. She left almost everything behind in Turkey except her traditions, including a special one that would sustain her through poverty and the hardships that lay ahead: a cup of tea at least once a day, a dose of tranquillity with a squeeze of lemon and some honey.

Arshalous was one of those people who didn’t listen to anybody else. Every afternoon, her loud voice and the guttural pitches of her Armenian echoed through the family’s cramped, one-bedroom apartment on 133rd Street and Amsterdam Avenue in Harlem, rhetorically asking, “Thirsty?” Then, without waiting for an answer, she filled the cast-iron pot with water and put it on the stove. When it was boiling rapidly, she threw flowers and dried leaves into the pot and let them steep for 10 minutes. The sweet smell of the herb, called “Oukhlemor” in Armenian, filled the apartment while she sliced lemon wedges and got down the jar of honey. She would then strain the tea into a cup, squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice and let the honey slide off a spoon and curl into the steaming flowered water. And then she would stir, slowly.

It was tea time. “Khume asee oktagare kezee,” she would say. Drink this, it’s good for you. “What is it called in English?” my mother would ask. Arshalous would throw back her head and mumble in Armenian. What difference did it make?

Years later, my mother would throw back her head when I asked, “Oukhlemor, what is it?” Though it is similar in smell and texture to chamomile, it isn’t quite as sweet. The dried leaves of Oukhlemor are dull-green in color, and the tiny buds almost a yellowish ecru. The tea is toffee brown with a rosy undertone.

And it is good for you — but more as a remedy for the spirit than the body, a sort of comfort in a cup, a liquid security blanket. A transcendental calmness, like a loved one stroking your head. A moment of smelling it and dousing your face in the steam always preludes any taste of it. Then slow sips. No gulps.

My grandmother would always wait for the tea to cool — but just for a few minutes, not too long. You don’t want it to burn your lips, but if it’s too cool, it isn’t soothing. The only way you can tell when it’s ready is by holding it; if it just warms your hands, it’s just right. And Oukhlemor always tastes better in the warmth of a light, whether you’re sitting by the window, catching the last rays of the afternoon sun or by the evening light of a lamp.

In fact, you must sit down while having a cup of tea, my grandmother would say. You can’t have it on the run, like coffee. Although I have heard that coffee actually carries less caffeine than many teas, it is still an on-the-go drink, a boost of energy made to drink while dashing across town. A cup of tea is to be savored, to be cherished over time. A cup of tea can last as long as you need it to.

It was during the Pritikin diet craze in the ’80s that my mother finally unearthed the name of this mystery herb. She had read about a tea that was supposedly good for the nerves and hypertension and went to the store to buy it. Into a pot of boiling water she tossed it and as soon as she did, she knew. It was Oukhlemor or, in English, linden flower tea.

Whenever my mother and I are together, we find the time to sit down for a cup of tea. Usually, it is Oukhlemor, but other times it’s whatever we can find. What I really savor about what Arshalous passed on to us is not the type of tea but the ritual of having it. I think she really believed that sitting down for just one moment during the day is the best remedy for almost anything.

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Dawn MacKeen covers health for Newsday.

Page 6 of 6 in Coffee and tea