Fashion

The elitist history of Mitt Romney’s slick hair

Is grease good? His hairstyle reminds us of Gordon Gekko, film's top vulture capitalist, but goes back further

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The elitist history of Mitt Romney's slick hair (Credit: AP/Alan Diaz)

For businessman-turned-politician Mitt Romney, “looking the part” isn’t necessarily a good thing. At a time when the presidential candidate is being pilloried as a vulture capitalist by rivals from both parties — yesterday’s revelation about his low income-tax rate is just more fodder for an already healthy fire — he also sports the hair of a vulture capitalist. It recalls the slicked-back style of “Wall Street’s” infamous Gordon Gekko.

When slicked-back hair is associated with the likes of a corporate raider like Gekko — Maureen Dowd wrote just last week that Republicans in New Hampshire were “painting Romney as a ruthless Gekko, complete with a 1980s-era slicked-back mane” — it’s safe to say the signals that it sends are negative. That’s particularly the case in the current, Wall Street-wary climate. But where did the slicked-back style originate? What other cultural connotations does it command?

Slicked-back hair has gone in and out of fashion since at least the 18th century, when a more dramatic iteration of the style was popularized by Madame de Pompadour, mistress of France’s King Louis XV. In her “Encyclopedia of Hair,” Victoria Sherrow says the ancien regime socialite “set a trend among women by wearing tall hairstyles built around a wire frame,” explaining that “pomade was used to set the style.” The male version of the look “is combed back off the face without a part, forming a mound of hair above the forehead … Elvis Presley wore a version of this hairdo during the 1950s, as did movie idols, including Marlon Brando and James Dean.”

A similar history is rehearsed by Ellen Mirojnick, the costume designer for 1987′s “Wall Street,” when she explains the inspiration for Gordon Gekko’s style. Mirojnick has often said that Gekko’s overall look sprang more from her own romantic impulses than from the realities of late-1980s Wall Street — and that, as a result, the character looked more like a movie star than a genuine high financier (elements of Gekko’s style have since been adopted by real-life Wall Street money-men).

“[In past centuries,] men slicked back their hair to accommodate the wigs they wore,” Mirojnick notes. “After the wigs went away, slicked-back hair was really associated mostly — before gangsters — with a general category of movie stars and actors; it goes back to the ’20s, with Rudolph Valentino,” who often wore his hair slicked straight back or parted on the left.

“The inspiration for [Gekko's] hair came from Michael Douglas, and that inspiration was sparked by Pat Riley,” who then coached the NBA’s Los Angeles Lakers. “[Michael Douglas] brought that idea to the table, and I brought this romanticized, glamorous, movie-star kind of Duke of Windsor/Gene Kelly combination of the golden age of Hollywood. That was my inspiration, truthfully … I didn’t look to anything but how movie stars dressed elegantly in the ’40s.”

Where Mirojnick is concerned, the Romney-Gekko comparison is a hard sell. “The difference in Romney’s hair and Gordon Gekko’s hair is that Romney’s has a part,” she says; Gekko’s hair, on the other hand, is swept straight back. In her eyes, much can be gleaned about both characters from this disparity. Romney’s style is more “specific,” “manicured” and “meticulous,” whereas “if you look at [Gordon Gekko's] slicked-back hair, sometimes it looks messy … It doesn’t look perfect; it just looks like he put stuff in his hands, put it through his hair, and combed his hair. It doesn’t look polished like Romney’s does.”

“Gordon had a fluidity; Gordon had a swagger,” Mirojnick elaborates. “You didn’t see him armored, I don’t think. I just think [Romney] is so put-together and so specific that it appears to be all armored. There’s nothing relaxed about him. Whereas Gordon … allowed you to come in.”

The suggestion of fastidiousness certainly fits with Romney’s public image; whole “Saturday Night Live” sketches have already been devoted to the candidate’s perceived stiffness. A New York Times piece on the eve of the Iowa caucuses even suggested that precise organization is characteristic not only of Romney himself, but his entire campaign.

Image consultant and political style blogger Christina Logothetis says she doesn’t think Romney’s look necessarily channels Gordon Gekko — or even other familiar slicked-back characters such as “Mad Men’s” Don Draper. It does, however, radiate executive polish: “I think it does generally place him in the category that he gets placed in anyway, which is of this very polished businessman … That being said, it’s also just very functional for him; it keeps his hair very neat.”

Would Logothetis advise a male client running for office in 2012 to try the slicked-back look? She says it could pose problems. “I would definitely flag it as something that starts to associate a person with images of wealth … It also calls attention to the fact that this man is using styling products, and that isn’t usually perceived well. We all remember the trouble that candidates have had in the past when how much they pay for a haircut comes out in the press.” As a rule, it’s better for a candidate to look natural and minimally styled, no matter how much work has actually gone into his or her appearance.

Glenn O’Brien, a style writer for GQ and author of “How to Be a Man: A Guide to Style and Behavior for the Modern Gentleman,” agrees. “I think that in politics, you’re supposed to be real; you’re not supposed to be styled and groomed. And Mitt Romney sort of looks like he’s been groomed professionally. It’s like John Edwards’ $400 haircut; if you look narcissistic — if you look like you pay too much attention to your appearance — then I think that’s sort of supposed to be a bad thing.

“Aesthetically,” O’Brien goes on, the slicked-back style “is about control. It’s not a natural look … I guess there’s a certain kind of executive look of being finished, being done, that it connotes.” O’Brien adds that Jon Huntsman, Romney’s one-time rival for the GOP nomination, also has a slicked-back hairstyle. But since Huntsman’s overall look is less “artificial” than Romney’s, it’s harder for observers to pick one physical trait and use it as part of a larger attack.

Are the slicked-back style’s present pop-culture associations primarily positive or negative? It’s easy to make the latter case. “Downton Abbey” heartthrob Matthew Crawley is (so far) one exception to a general rule that sees slicked-back hair assigned most often to the antagonists in popular film and television. Mirojnick laments the fact that slicked hair is so often connected with villains, noting that while she finds the style to be a powerful and romantic physical trait in leading men, “there are people who will go on the other side of the coin and historically will say that characters with slicked-back hair are the antagonists in films, whether they be villains, whether they be greedy, whether they be untrustworthy, whether they be killers, whether they be shysters — any of the above.” The phenomenon is pronounced enough to have earned a satirical citation in the Onion:

According to statistics released by the [National Organization of Men with Slicked-Back Hair], five out of every six characters with slicked-back hair are cast as the primary antagonist. Of this group, 29 percent are depicted as greedy and manipulative Wall Street sharks, 22 percent as cold, emotionless murderers, 19 percent as evil coaches or mentors, 12 percent as corrupt mafiosi, 8 percent as undead creatures who feast on human blood, and the remaining 10 percent fall into the general category of jerks/pricks/John Travolta.

Whatever cultural forces have dictated the popularity of the slicked-back hairstyle over the years — and however it might come across in the political arena today — when I ask D.C.-based image consultant Yasmin Anderson-Smith what she thinks of Romney’s look, her mind immediately jumps not to Gordon Gekko or Don Draper, but to the candidate’s father, George, who wore his hair slicked back (and parted) long before “Wall Street” was released. Perhaps in Romney’s case, she suggests, there is a more basic, time-honored fashion formula — like father, like son — at work.

Emma Mustich is a Salon contributor. Follow her on Twitter: @emustich.

The war over sexist onesies

Gymboree's "Pretty Like Mommy" line reinforces harmful stereotypes. It might seem minor, but here's why it matters

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The war over sexist onesies

It’s just baby clothes, for God’s sake. What’s the big deal? Or, as Sasha Brown-Worsham declared on the Stir, those “Moms Freaked Over ‘Sexist’ Onesie Need to Chill.”

Indeed, in a world in which little girls are peddled crotchless thongs, push-up bras and Playboy bunny-themed accessories, Gymboree’s controversial onesies declaring that baby boys are “Smart Like Dad” while girls are “Pretty Like Mommy” seem like pretty small potatoes. Yet when images of the outfits hit the Web, the outraged Moms Rising advocacy group created a petition noting “there’s no option to purchase a Smart Like Mommy onesie for boys or girls.” They urged Gymboree to “stop selling children’s clothing that promotes harmful gender stereotypes immediately.”

So this weekend, Brown-Worsham lamented on the Stir that “if we get hysterical over every perceived slight, we won’t get anywhere,” and warned, “Choose your battle, ladies.” Commenters agreed, declaring, “These moms obviously have nothing better to do.”

It is, however, possible to be pissed at sartorial sexism and still have umbrage left to take aim at sex abuse, how Congress is nutritionally short-changing our children or any number of compelling issues. To care about one thing doesn’t mean you have to relinquish your stake in everything else, or that you live in a world in which all issues merit the exact amount of care and attention. And calling BS on a crappy marketing plan doesn’t mean you’re “hysterical” over a “perceived slight.”

Our children are sold gender expectations from before they’re born – as a friend learned when her sonogram technician announced the sex of her fetus by declaring “it’s a princess!” Though both the “smart” and “pretty” onesies appear to have been yanked from  Gymboree’s website, if you want to know what our cultural aspirations for our kids are, right now, in this ostensibly enlightened age, just take a gander at the rest of the company’s collection. And remember, this is just one generally uncontroversial and highly trusted brand.

If you’re a little boy, you can be “Daddy’s Little Buddy.” A “Perfect Little Man.” You can be a “rascal” or “cool,” an “Adventure Seeker” or “Mr. Personality.” You can wear a football and the moniker “Daddy’s MVP.” If you’re a girl, you can be a MVP, too. But for the little ladies, those letters stand for “Most Valuable Princess.” You can also be “cutie sweet” or a “fairy.” You can be “Daddy’s Little Cupcake” or “A Little Bon Bon.” Dream big, baby girls! Boys may be on a course for greatness, but you can be a dessert! Gymboree also has an entire “Smart Little Guy” line  that allows parents to dress their sons in math formulas and “Genius” bodysuits. Girls, meanwhile, are consigned to the “Cozy Cutie” shop. Can you see why some of us are pissed off?

I am far from anti-girly-girl. I am a lady who wears ruffled skirts to doctor’s appointments, whose emergency kit contains mascara. When told I needed “sturdy hiking shoes” for a trip, I not only had to buy my first pair, but found one with sequins. My daughters are similarly, unmistakably femme, as their impressive collection of wigs makes evident. And I understand that certain evolutionary theories would tell us we are wired to value beauty in females and other qualities, like brains and success, in males.

Yet our XX chromosomes do not instill any natural aspirations to be Tinkerbell or to wear tiaras. That is learned; it’s imposed from the onesies we dress our babies in all the way to the “Too Pretty to Do Homework” crap aimed at our tweens. The clear implication is that attractiveness — not daring, not intelligence — is enough for them.

I want my daughters – and yours – to grow up in a world in which they can brag of their math prowess or their rascally natures on their own shirts. Not shirts pinched from the boy’s collection, but their own. They can rock them with their tutus and their glitter headbands if they so desire; they can still be pretty. But they need to know that just because you’re a girl, you’re not limited to being anybody’s fairy, princess or fluffy little cupcake.

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Mary Elizabeth Williams

Mary Elizabeth Williams is a staff writer for Salon and the author of "Gimme Shelter: My Three Years Searching for the American Dream." Follow her on Twitter: @embeedub.

What would Superman wear

At a charity benefit, fashion designers dress and create their own superheroes

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What would Superman wear SEMIPRECIOUS by Renata Morales(Credit: George Fok)
This article originally appeared on Imprint.

ImprintThe Brooklyn Superhero Supply Co. presented its Spring 2012 Collection on Monday, Oct. 24 at the Ace Hotel.

The evening was a benefit for 826NYC and featured a collection of original and one-of-a-kind crime-fighting attire for superheroes created by various designers — Opening Ceremony, Christian Joy, Renata Morales, Chromat Garments, Matt Singer, Complex Geometries, United Bamboo and others.

All proceeds from the evening went to benefit 826NYC, allowing them to continue to help students complete their homework, get into college, improve their writing skills, rediscover themselves as artists/authors/filmmakers/musicians, and collaborate with a community of volunteers who care about their success.

826NYC asked the designers to provide their superheroes with names and a brief description of their superpowers and abilities. 826NYC also had some of the children who frequent the writing center provide their thoughts on these new superhero creations; the descriptions were read aloud as the costumes were auctioned off.

SEMIPRECIOUS by Renata Morales
“What the cow? What the — What’s this? It looks like a ghost zombie. ” (Ivan, 7 years old)

KRYPTONIAN CASUAL from Complex Geometries
“Maybe this is a superhero that would control the snow and lightning. She would wear this dress with silver gloves. She was born in the snow as a normal baby. And then she was bitten by a piranha, which gave her water powers. The thunder powers she got from getting struck by lightning when she was just a day old.” (Tarryn, 8 years old)

MAGNITITA! by Christian Joy
“It’s a magnet guy or girl. It looks like a girl, and she has magnet hands and a suitcase. If there’s metal, she can stick it on her face with the magnet. And then she would go throw it on people. I don’t know how she takes things off her face. Maybe her face is only a magnet, but her hands can be magnets and regular hands. Because if she was all magnets, she would have nothing to take it off with.” (Heerang, 6 years old)

CAT SAMURAI by United Bamboo
“With a samurai, people would get stuck with the pointy end, and then they would get hurt. It should be like a knight with the horse and those sticks. They could put the shield in front of the sun, and then it would bounce off it and will go on the person, and the person would blink their eyes like crazy.” (Heerang, 6 years old)

826NYC is a free writing center for students ages 6-18 in Brooklyn, N.Y., and is located behind a swinging bookshelf at the back of a superhero supply store. For more information on them visit 372 Fifth Avenue, or online at www.826nyc.org.

KRYPTONIAN CASUAL by Complex Geometries

MAGNITITA! by Christian Joy

AGNITITA! by Christian Joy

SAMURAI CAT by United Bamboo

SEMIPRECIOUS by Renata Morales

SEMIPRECIOUS by Renata Morales

Copyright F+W Media Inc. 2011.


Salon is proud to feature content from Imprint, the fastest-growing design community on the web. Brought to you by Print magazine, America’s oldest and most trusted design voice, Imprint features some of the biggest names in the industry covering visual culture from every angle. Imprint advances and expands the design conversation, providing fresh daily content to the community (and now to salon.com!), sparking conversation, competition, criticism, and passion among its members.

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Inside Elizabeth Taylor’s blockbuster wardrobe

Slide show: Nine of the screen siren's outfits, from the collection set to be auctioned by Christie's this winter

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Elizabeth Taylor’s allure was such that it probably didn’t matter what she wore; particularly in her younger years, she would arguably have been attractive in almost anything. And yet, her monumental wardrobe is testament to the fact that she left nothing to chance, choosing outfits and accessories that accentuated her good looks with their own stylishness and class.

Click through the following slide show for a short preview of the hundreds of fashion-related items from Taylor’s personal collection that are set to be auctioned by Christie’s this winter (and take note: before they go on sale, standout pieces from the collection will tour the world; an exhibition will hit Los Angeles in October, and New York at the beginning of December). Among other things, you’ll see a surprisingly simple yellow chiffon wedding dress; an embroidered robe that Taylor wore to Grace Kelly’s 1969 “Scorpio Ball;” and an eye-catching Versace jacket — worn by Taylor to two AIDS benefits — that features the face of its photogenic owner herself.

For full details of the Christie’s collection (which also includes Taylor’s jewelry and other personal items), including tour and sale dates, click here.

View the slide show

Emma Mustich is a Salon contributor. Follow her on Twitter: @emustich.

Why ironic T-shirts push real buttons

The sincere anger against JCPenney and American Apparel T-shirts proves some gender issues are too real to laugh at

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Why ironic T-shirts push real buttons

JCPenney became the latest retailer to make itself the target of protests this week when it offered a T-shirt, aimed at preteen and teenage girls, emblazoned with the words “I’m too pretty to do homework so my brother does it for me.” As has happened with similar offerings over the last decade, protests fell swiftly into shape. A Change.org petition denouncing the shirt garnered thousands of signatures, bloggers like those at Gawker Media’s Jezebel  turned the tacky offering into a national story, and inevitably, JCPenney announced that it was pulling the shirt from its back-to-school collection.

Besides the fact that the slogan doesn’t really make much sense — not that we want girls to use their looks instead of their heads, but shouldn’t they woo peers and not siblings? — the predictable flap illustrates a larger truth. If you’re trying to make money by getting people to plaster ridiculous sayings across their chests, it’s better to go surreal or silly than stereotypical.

Why do supposedly ironic T-shirts touch so many sincere cultural buttons? After all, a shirt that asks passersby “Who Wants a Mustache Ride?” — to name one novelty tee on the market — might be crude. But it’s hard to believe that anyone would don it in the expectation that it’s an effective sexual solicitation. Similarly, it would be pretty depressing if someone wore a shirt that said “I Drink Beer Like It’s My Job,” also widely available, and meant it. Nevertheless, it doesn’t take a high-level humorist to tell that it’s a joke. “All the Cool Kids Go to Rehab” might not be terribly funny, given the way the celebrity industry treats addiction and rehabilitation as recurring and sometimes trivial parts of the news cycle. But it’s more depressing than offensive, an attempt to glamorize hitting rock bottom, and not a particularly effective one at that.

But retailers go wrong when they treat stereotypes and social issues as if they’re distant enough to be the subject of casual humor. In August, American Apparel began selling a shirt that proclaims “Teenagers Do It Better.”  It simply reminded many people that Dov Charney, the company’s CEO, has faced sexual harassment charges from many young women.

Abercrombie & Fitch found itself in trouble in 2002 when it started selling a T-shirt advertising a “Wong Brothers Laundry Service — Two Wongs Can Make It White.” It wasn’t just that that the top played into the idea that laundries are an exclusively Asian industry — which might have been enough to invite protest — but it also implied an inequality between white customers and the people of color from whom they buy services they wouldn’t perform themselves. Similarly, if less perniciously, the chain sold an “It’s all relative in West Virginia” shirt in 2004 that prompted protests from the state’s governor on the grounds that it reinforced stereotypes of the region as a place full of casual incest.

Another chain that’s found itself repeatedly in the hot seat for its T-shirts – perhaps intentionally to cement its edginess — is Urban Outfitters. In 2003, the company found itself under fire from the Anti-Defamation League for selling a top emblazoned with the slogan “Everyone Loves a Jewish Girl,” with dollar signs surrounding the words. Worn by actual Jewish girls, the shirt could have been self-aware and funny, but the association of Judaism with the perception of avarice is still a stereotype that provokes anxiety. Last year, the company pulled back a T-shirt with the slogan “Eat Less” — the words were taken as an uncomfortable promotion of unhealthy approaches to eating. In that case, the debate was particularly fraught because Urban Outfitters introduced its shirt shortly after gossip blogger Perez Hilton started selling (and then withdrew) a T-shirt with the words “Nothing Tastes ss Good as Skinny Feels.” Kate Moss popularized the line in a 2009 interview and it has since become associated with websites that advocate radical weight-loss measures.

It would be wonderful to think we live in a world where the idea that a girl or a woman would prioritize her body over her brain is so ludicrous that it could never be taken seriously. But when the message that women ought to embrace that hierarchy of values is delivered so relentlessly and through so many channels, JCPenney should have realized that its supposedly clever slogan was too on the nose to be worn on anybody’s body as a joke. 

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Five pop culture items we missed

Today's catch: End of "Breaking Bad," "Real Housewives" hit the road, and Tina Fey welcomes normal-named baby

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Five pop culture items we missedBreaking Bad - Bryan Cranston as Walter White, Anna Gunn as Skyler, RJ Mitte as Walt Jr. - Doug Hyun/AMC

1. Unnecessary tour of the day: “The Real Housewives” Live Tour will feature women from all of the different manifestations of Bravo’s reality show as they perform … what exactly? Do any of them have actual talents? I had hoped this was to be a musical production of some sort, with costumes by Shereé Whitfield and wigs by Kim Zolciak, but apparently it’s just going to involve the women taking their reunion episodes on the road.

2. Cancellation of the day: Sorry, Kate Gosselin, your money train is at an end, as TLC has just canceled ” Kate Plus 8.”  Don’t worry, I’m sure you will find other ways to exploit your children for cash … maybe have the younger ones try out for “Toddlers & Tiaras”?

3. Preemptive grieving of the day: We knew this moment would come, but we still don’t feel prepared to hear that next season will be the finale of “Breaking Bad.” I’m thinking there’s a spinoff in the works with Kate Gosselin as Bryan Cranston’s quirky new love interest.

4. Birth of the day: Tina Fey’s second daughter, Penelope Athena. Oh come on, Tina! You aren’t even going to try to make things interesting by naming your kid after a piece of machinery or your favorite food?

5. Hot androgyny of the day: To get everyone pumped up for Fashion Week, New York magazine profiled the beatific Andrej Pejic, who models both male and female lines on the runway, and who claims to have “left (his) gender open to artistic interpretation.”

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Drew Grant is a staff writer for Salon. Follow her on Twitter at @videodrew.

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