Food Business
When food ads go racist
A look back at the tone-deaf advertising strategies of yesteryear
In the wake of the ridiculous KFC racist-ad-troversy a few weeks ago, racially inappropriate food advertising has been on a lot of people’s minds lately (OK, probably just ours), so we were excited to come across Slashfood’s great post about the history of racial advertising in food. We all know those famously questionable icons Aunt Jemima and Uncle Ben, but in his post Sean Elder has also rounded up some lesser-known misguided advertising strategies:
- Rastus: The Cream of Wheat’s trademark figure — a black man in a chef’s outfit — doesn’t appear immediately offensive unless you know his history (“a 1915 Cream of Wheat ad showed Uncle Sam looking at Rastus, bearing a bowl of cereal, and saying, ‘Well, you’re helping some!’”), and the fact that “Rastus” is both a pejorative racist term and the name of a type of character popular in minstrel shows. Unsurprisingly, there is currently a petition asking for Rastus’ removal.
- The Frito Bandito: The Bandito was a corn-chips-stealing Mexican outlaw who was created to shill Frito Lay between 1967 and 1971. Eventually animated by Tex Avery, the Bandito caused an uproar among Mexican-Americans for being “unshaven, unfriendly and leering” — not to mention a scoundrel (with a hilariously over-the-top accent).
- Starting in the ’50s, Hamm’s Beer used a Native American theme, complete with tom-tom music, a chanting choir and melodramatic narration (the beer is “brewed for many moons”) to sell its suds. (Says Elder: “It’s really only in the context of alcoholism on Indian reservations that the imagery loses its muster.”)
- Chun King Chinese food: The Duluth-based cannery “used pictures of coolies, complete with pigtails and pajamas,” to advertise their American-made Chinese food in the middle of the century. Slashfood has a great photo of the package at the top of its post. The company eventually toned down its advertising, and commissioned Stan Freberg to create something called the “Chung King Chow Mein Hour” (complete with its own Native American stereotyping).
A more contemporary example, however, is Ching’s Secret: An Indian company that sells Chinese ingredients in the United States, Asia and other parts of the world, and features a picture of a fu manchu’d rice farmer (presumably Ching) wearing a pointy straw hat on its packaging. The image becomes becomes even more offensive, and hilarious, when blown up on the side of a truck.
Clearly there’s more where this came from. What are some other offensive or racially insensitive food ads that you’ve come across? Let us know in the comments, or blog about them on Open Salon — just make sure to tag your post “offensive foods.”
Thomas Rogers is Salon's Arts Editor. More Thomas Rogers.
The U.K.’s chocolate war gets personal
Kraft's Cadbury takeover becomes an issue of British pride
Kraft’s $19.5 billion takeover bid for the beloved British candy institution Cadbury — to make it the world’s largest candy maker — is ripe for puns: just try to find a report that doesn’t riff on the idea that Kraft “sweetened” the deal after their initial bid, a paltry $17.1 billion. Amidst the jokes about Velveeta-filled Creme Eggs, however, the public response to the merger has been fiercely emotional. Cadbury employs over 6,000 people in the United Kingdom, and the labor union Unite fears a takeover could threaten as many as 30,000 jobs, but it’s not exactly clear whether that’s the injury or the insult: Cadbury’s sweets are a British culinary institution, from its creamy 95-year-old Milk Tray bon-bon line — whose ads for decades featured a James Bond-lookalike delivering them to ladies – to its signature Creme Eggs. As Kraft prepares to eat Cadbury (or gobble it, devour it, chomp it; whichever you like), the chocolate maker has become a symbol of British identity in the face of a crass American attack. Salon gathered some reactions from around the media:
Continue Reading CloseSara Breselor is an Editorial Fellow with Salon Food. More Sara Breselor.
864,000 pounds of beef recalled
Southern California company fears E.coli contamination
A Southern California meat-packing firm has recalled some 864,000 pounds of ground-beef that might be contaminated with E. coli.
The Department of Agriculture’s Food Safety and Inspection Service said Monday that no illnesses have been reported from the products sold by Montebello-based Huntington Meat Packing Inc. under the Huntington, Imperial Meat Co. and El Rancho brands.
The affected beef was sold to distribution centers, restaurants and hotels in California between Feb. 19 and May 15, 2008, and between Jan 5. and Jan. 15, 2010.
Huntington did not return a phone message.
Officials say department personnel discovered the problem during a food safety assessment.
Kraft-Cadbury deal could create world’s biggest candy company
U.K.'s Cadbury agrees to a takeover bid from Kraft food giant -- but some Brits aren't thrilled
British candy company Cadbury agreed to a fattened $19.5 billion takeover offer from U.S. food group Kraft in a deal that would create the world’s biggest chocolate maker.
The board of Cadbury PLC, maker of Creme Eggs and Dentyne gum, gave up a four-month fight to remain independent and on Tuesday recommended shareholders take Kraft’s offer of 840 pence ($13.78) per share, amounting to 11.9 billion pounds.
Cadbury shareholders would also get a 10 pence dividend previously promised by Cadbury.
Continue Reading CloseThat anti-soda ad is way gnarly … but will it work?
A commercial makes sugary drinks stomach-churning, but a food psychologist says it won't win the war on obesity
I’m pretty sure I lost weight yesterday because of the New York City Department of Health’s new anti-soda ad. I mean, screw soda — the sight of cellulite dribbling out of that dude’s mouth meant I wasn’t going to keep any food down.
That horror means something, I think. A friend of mine once got so sick on whiskey that 40 years later, the scent of brown liquor still makes him shudder. And I can clearly remember the smell of the Chef Boyardee I tried to eat when I was a kid, wishing to die from the flu, and it makes me deeply unhappy. So can this ad succeed in forcing people to make the emotional connection between drinking soda and being subjected to something out of “Saw 7″?
Continue Reading CloseFrancis Lam is Features Editor at Gilt Taste, provides color commentary for the Cooking Channel show Food(ography), and tweets at @francis_lam. More Francis Lam.
Sick lunch
School cafeterias around the country get low grades for food safety
I realize this is merely peripheral to the debate over health care reform, health policy generally, and Americans’ health status. But as those larger issues are discussed, the fact that–surprise, surprise–some of nation’s children are getting sick at school, and not from wiping their noses on their sleeves and sneezing all over each other, is disconcerting and at least timely.
The USA Today reports on new CDC findings showing that school cafeterias remain subpar (if a little better than recent history) in terms of food safety and food quality:
Continue Reading CloseThomas F. Schaller is professor of political science at the University of Maryland, Baltimore County and the author of "Whistling Past Dixie: How Democrats Can Win Without the South." Follow him @schaller67. More Thomas Schaller.
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