North Korea

How to defeat the Axis of Evil

The United States has more powerful weapons than planes and tanks: Trade, aid and Hollywood.

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What a nuisance! Just as the Bush administration had Saddam Hussein back in the cross hairs as the top target of the president’s global evil-eradication program comes the news of more urgent threats. And once again, the bad news about al-Qaida and North Korea could not be logically connected in any way with Iraq.

First, CIA director George J. Tenet issued a warning that al-Qaida poses as much of a danger to the U.S. as it did before the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks. That’s a bummer because, if true, it means that the much-celebrated regime change in Afghanistan didn’t even slow down Osama bin Laden’s gang of psychos. It is then doubly difficult to make the case that a regime change in Iraq would make Americans safer from al-Qaida terrorism because there is not a shred of reliable evidence linking that to Saddam.

Both Tenet and Czech President Vaclav Havel have said that there is no evidence that a much-publicized Prague meeting between Sept. 11 hijacker Mohamed Atta and an Iraqi agent ever happened.

Now we learn, according to high-level Bush administration leaks to the New York Times, that Pakistan has been colluding with North Korea to the mutual benefit of their respective nuclear weapons programs. Both countries are in violation of agreed-upon international restraints, but in Pakistan’s case the U.S. has lifted sanctions, while it seeks to reimpose them on North Korea.

Further complicating things, Iraqi Deputy Prime Minister Tarik Aziz last week disavowed any Iraqi link to al-Qaida: “We don’t condone religious fundamentalism, and therefore we don’t have any relationship with those people.” We don’t have to trust Aziz to know his and Saddam’s secular Baath Party has a huge stake in repressing fundamentalism.

This is an awkward irony, given that our Pakistani and Saudi allies not only condone Muslim fundamentalism but, more important, created its most virulent expression in the form of bin Laden’s sponsors — the Taliban.

Why not engineer a regime change in North Korea and Pakistan before getting around to Iraq, where functioning nuclear weapons, according to our latest CIA intelligence, are only a gleam in Saddam’s eyes? For all the loose talk about Saddam’s purported chemical and biological weapons threat — smallpox vaccine, anyone? — it is nuclear weapons, combined with the missile delivery systems possessed by North Korea and Pakistan, that represent the most serious threat of mass destruction. If launched on a city like New Delhi, India, or Seoul, South Korea, even atomic bombs like the primitive ones we dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki 57 years ago would be an unfathomable atrocity.

There are those, including some frustrated ex-doves, who when faced with such an expanding enemies list throw up their hands and say the heck with it, let’s blast away at evil on all fronts. As with the barroom brawler who will take up fisticuffs over any provocation, this macho appeal allows one to avoid seeming weak — except in the head. Fortunately, however, cooler heads are beginning to perceive a disaster in the making as we thrash about at any available target with unreserved venom. That is why the Bush administration is already backing off its first tough words about the treachery of North Korea.

The truth is that Pyongyang, North Korea, is a completely isolated junk-heap. The government hopes desperately to follow Beijing’s and Seoul’s path to an export-driven market economy. But it is diplomatically inept and now just blurts out its worst behaviors — kidnapping Japanese civilians, building weapons of mass destruction — in a desperate bid for aid and recognition.

It is thus best to think of North Korea as that bankrupt nation in the Peter Sellers movie “The Mouse That Roared,” based on the Leonard Wibberly novel about a small nation that declares war on the U.S., planning to lose before a shot is fired and thus be eligible for generous financial aid from the victor.

And it might even work. Negotiations with the U.S. that were sidetracked under the Bush administration will now begin in earnest. The spigot of assistance from Japan and South Korea should be opened enough to eventually allow North Korea to flood Wal-Mart and Costco with cheap products built by a docile labor force.

The hawks have got it wrong, for they have given up too easily on the siren song of capitalism.

Trade, aid, tourism and pirated Hollywood movies are the proven weapons of mass destruction against totalitarianism, much more effective than sanctions and war, which only enshrine dictators and terrorists as the protectors of a people or nation’s virtue. Inviting it to the table is still the best weapon for stuffing a mouse that roars.

Robert Scheer is a syndicated columnist.

When in doubt, nuke ‘em

The Pentagon's secret plan to fight terror with nuclear weapons shows just how dangerous this administration is.

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The news that the Pentagon had secret contingency plans to fight terrorism with nuclear weapons has the marks not of considered military doctrine but rather of an infantile tantrum born of the Bush administration’s frustration in making good on its overblown promise to end the terrorist scourge.

There is desperation in the air; the giant that is America feels humbled by the Lilliputian terrorists who have not been brought fully to account. There still is not a clear line of command connecting the hijackers with al-Qaida and Taliban leaders whom the president has yet to capture, “dead or alive.” Neither has there been progress on the source of the anthrax that killed five people and crippled the U.S. Postal Service, except the disconcerting evidence that this particular evil seems to be homegrown.

Nuclear weapons also are a made-in-the-U.S.A. product, and given that we are the only nation to have used them, one would expect that we would have a special responsibility to eschew their future use.

Instead, the administration’s plan not only targets the three “axis of evil” nations — Iran, Iraq and North Korea — but Syria, Libya, Russia and China as well.

Consider the absurdity: We risk escalating a worldwide nuclear arms race to nuke a shadow terrorist enemy whose most effective military action to date was begun with box cutters. Clearly, that threat could have been met best by taking the modest steps of maintaining armed air marshals on civilian planes and employing better-trained airport security guards.

Nuking our own or anyone else’s airports would not have saved the World Trade Center and the human beings who were there Sept. 11. The hijackers succeeded because our $30-billion-a-year intelligence apparatus failed to perform and we consistently coddled Saudi Arabia’s backers of religious hate even after their minions blew up our embassies.

Having squandered the Clinton-led Israel-Palestine peace initiatives, President Bush watched from the sidelines as the Mideast caldron, the source of most of the world’s terrorist threats, boiled to overflowing. The enduring terrorist threat has little to do with the caves of Afghanistan and everything to do with the failure to secure the Mideast peace promised by Bush’s father’s Gulf War.

Clearly, Arab-Israeli peace should be the highest order in a war on terrorism. This administration, however — whether to gain poll approval or because of its allegiance to military contractors — has raised the military options above any diplomatic efforts. So why not also throw some nuclear weapons into the mix?

Because it is ludicrous. Does anyone really believe that nuclear weapons might save the lives of Israelis and Palestinians, when it assuredly would incinerate them? Or that targeting Russia and China for potential nuclear attacks would lead those nations to embrace further moves toward nuclear stability and arms control? Or cause them to be less threatened by our announced plan to scrap the Antiballistic Missile Treaty and build a missile defense?

In fact, Chinese or Russian military planners would be attacked by their own hard-liners if they failed to respond to this report by placing even greater emphasis on making their own nuclear forces more robust, survivable and again on hair-trigger alert in anticipation of an American first strike. To encourage heightened fears of U.S. nuclear intentions at a time when the Russians and Chinese are our allies in the war against terrorism is dizzyingly counterproductive.

We need to encourage those countries and other nuclear powers to think of nuclear weapons as dangerous junk that at best will boomerang and destroy all that they care about. As the anthrax example demonstrates, our own investment in weapons of mass destruction can easily turn into our own undoing.

What madness to even entertain the thought that nuclear weapons are anything other than the means to the world’s destruction. What we need instead is a U.S.-led worldwide campaign to shun nuclear weapons as inherently genocidal, to effectively end proliferation of nuclear weapons technology and material and to treat those nations that dally in the business of nuclear arms as barbarians in need of restraint.

It is we who have defined rogue nations as those bent on developing weapons of mass destruction. How then can we so cavalierly entertain the idea of again leading the world down the path to nuclear Armageddon?

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Robert Scheer is a syndicated columnist.

Bushed!

The president has done nothing right since winning the war in Afghanistan -- and it's time for the timorous media to start saying it.

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I hate it when publications subject readers to self-indulgent bickering between writers and columnists. But David Horowitz asked a provocative question in his last column that readers have been clamoring to answer: As we put it in a headline, “If you like the war Bush has prosecuted, how can you continue to insist he’s stupid?” Or as Horowitz wrote in his column: “If you like the results, common sense and common decency require proper respect for the man responsible.”

I’ve been thinking about that all week, since I’m one of the “liberal commentators” Horowitz was complaining about in his rejoinder to David Talbot’s cover story, “Axis of Stupidity.” More than once since Sept. 11, I’ve nodded respectfully to Bush’s handling of the war in Afghanistan, only to quickly rap him for his other sins — the way the White House has tried to micromanage the news about the worldwide war on terror, the shortcomings of Bush’s “Axis of Evil” State of the Union address; just last week, his administration’s behind the scenes work to scuttle tough campaign finance reform while pretending to back it.

But I think Horowitz raised a fair question, one that deserves an answer: If you believe Bush did a good job in the wake of Sept. 11, as I do, can you still think he’s doing a lousy job overall as president? Isn’t commander in chief his most important role? And, considering the president’s mostly mistake-free execution of the war, is it really fair for critics to seize once again on his easy-to-spoof verbal foibles — like his weekend gaffe in Japan, when, confusing “deflation” with “devaluation,” he sent the ailing yen into a teeth-chattering tailspin?

Of course, the answer to Horowitz’s question is yes, you can support Bush’s handling of the war to date and still criticize the job he’s doing as president. Because it’s becoming increasingly clear that almost everything admirable about Bush’s early war effort — the hard work lining up international support; the careful outreach to Muslim nations and communities to make clear the war wasn’t against Islam; the four weeks of restraint after Sept. 11 before bombing began on Oct. 7 — represented an all-too brief departure from his administration’s normal modus operandi. Now that the smoke has nearly cleared in Afghanistan, the bad old Bush has become plain for all to see — from his administration’s nose-thumbing unilateralism to its obsessive secrecy about its inner workings to its simplistic religious world view.

There were two whopping examples on Tuesday alone: the stunning news that the Pentagon’s Office of Strategic Influence is preparing a disinformation campaign about the war, including planting false stories in the foreign media, and a remarkable story about Attorney General John Ashcroft assuring a Christian broadcasters’ group that God is on our side in the war against terror. Both news items illustrate what’s most worrisome about the latest phase of a war that seems increasingly ill-defined and unlimited: an arrogance and self-righteousness that makes everything permissible — including trashing the country’s most precious democratic traditions — as long as it’s presented as an anti-terror measure.

In effect, Horowitz admonished the media that it was improper to criticize a president who has just prosecuted a successful war. But the truth is the media has already docilely accepted this argument. When Defense Secretary Donald Rumsfeld is being hailed by pundits as a “rock star” for his jolly, tell-them-nothing, Borscht-belt-on-the-Potomac sessions with reporters, should we really be surprised that the Pentagon thinks it can get away with dishing out blatant lies too? And when smart journalists like the New York Times’ Tom Friedman and CBS’s Lesley Stahl praise Bush for acting a little “crazy” in order freak out our enemies — even if it wigs out the rest of the world too — maybe the real surprise is that the administration thinks it needs to use disinformation at all, given the media’s eagerness to spout the White House line.

But arrogance combined with ignorance may yet cost Bush, and the country, quite dearly. John Ashcroft’s remarks to a group of Christian broadcasters this week were particularly unnerving, a window into the administration’s fundamentalist worldview. Contrasting “the way of God and the way of the terrorists” (and forgetting for a moment that the terrorists believe they, too, are acting in God’s name, even though they call him Allah), Ashcroft said the following:

“Civilized people — Muslims, Christians and Jews — all understand that the source of freedom and human dignity is the Creator. Civilized people of all religious faiths are called to the defense of His creation. We are a nation called to defend freedom — a freedom that is not the grant of any government or document, but is our endowment from God.”

Ashcroft’s inclusion of Muslims and Jews in his theocratic musings fooled no one. His remarks made clear that like other hard-line Christian rightists, the attorney general puts his religion ahead of the Constitution. This is an administration that divides the world into believers and nonbelievers, and that’s dangerous.

Ashcroft has a particularly feeble grasp of the division between church and state, of course, but anyone who thinks he was straying off the reservation with his remarks should consider why Bush can’t stop talking about “evil” and “evildoers.” (It’s also worth noting that Ashcroft was subbing for Bush himself at the Christian broadcasters meeting, after his trip to Asia forced the president to send a stand-in.) Bush’s obsession with evil is not only simplistic and childlike, as pointed out in “Axis of Stupidity,” it’s also language that marks him as a religious fundamentalist, a true believer who can’t conceive of a different way of looking at the world. I have no doubt he agrees with Ashcroft, and even though I happen to be a believer, that rattles me. Why? Because there is too much religious fervor in world politics today, and it has brought nothing but misery. It’s not reassuring when the administration starts to out-fanatic the religious fanatics who have declared war on us.

So even though I supported his early moves in the war, I think Bush deserves far more scrutiny, and criticism, than he’s been getting. Even his verbal gaffes matter (although I agree with Horowitz on one point: Bush isn’t stupid, and they’re not a sign of stupidity). It’s not about the media playing petty gotcha games: Mixing up “deflation” and “devaluation” had international consequences. Even his goofy comments at the DMZ border between North and South Korea bear examination, not just a snicker: Commenting on a grisly attack on American soldiers by axe-wielding North Koreans along the DMZ, Bush mused, “No wonder I think they’re evil” — as though he hadn’t quite known why he thought they were evil up until that point, but was just aping his advisors’ views. (Or maybe he was really talking about “Axes of Evil” in his State of the Union speech — bada-bing! OK, that was a cheap shot.)

Bush’s gaffes aren’t a symptom of stupidity, but of his rich-kid’s luxurious detachment, his frat-boy’s “Whatever, dude!” attitude. He may not be dumb, but he’s a lightweight. He’s used to people cleaning up after him. It was wrong to give him a pass on that trait when he was running for president, and it’s wrong now, even in wartime. He veers weirdly between this fortunate-son insouciance and, when seeking gravitas, a born-again absolutism (the force that helped pull him out of his drunken youth).

Yes, Bush did succeed in mopping up the terrorists in Afghanistan — with the glaring exception of their leaders. But his brief success as commander in chief can’t erase his increasingly apparent flaws as president. From his ideology-driven bungling of the economy to his historic assault on civil liberties to his dangerous global overreach, this is a president whose performance falls far short of his poll numbers. And it’s time for the media to start calling it like it is.

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Joan Walsh

Joan Walsh is Salon's editor at large.

Strip-searched in Frankfurt?

North Koreans skip the U.N. summit and return to Cold War rhetoric after getting a full security shakedown by American Airlines.

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There are more heads of state in New York this week than rats, thanks to the United Nations’ Millennium Summit. President Clinton, Russian President Vladimir Putin and Prime Ministers Gerhard Schroeder of Germany and Tony Blair of England are there, and even Fidel Castro, despite the protests of Mayor Rudy Giuliani, is making an appearance at the U.N.’s crumbling Lower East Side digs. But after an embarrassing international incident in Frankfurt Monday, one important delegation won’t be in attendance: the North Koreans.

After a scuffle with American Airlines employees in Germany, the North Korean delegation, despite the country’s recent conciliatory gestures toward the West, reverted to Cold War rhetoric, rescinded its RSVP to the U.N. meeting and flew back to Pyongyang on Lufthansa.

American Airlines security employees at the Frankfurt airport subjected the North Koreans to special FAA security screenings designated for nationals of countries formerly known as “rogue states,” but recently rechristened “states of concern” by Madeleine Albright’s State Department. Depending on which account you believe, they were either gently patted down (according to American Airlines) or aggressively strip-searched, including “even the sensitive parts of the body,” in the words of outraged Deputy Foreign Minister Choe Su Hon.

The trouble began when the delegation, led by designated head of state Kim Yong Nam, tried to board a connecting flight from Frankfurt to the U.S. on American. According to the airline, some members were patted down and asked to remove certain garments of clothing “such as a jacket” and their shoes. When others member of the delegation balked, they were not allowed to board the flight.

In a statement released to reporters Wednesday, American Airlines said that some delegates then decided to undergo the security measures, but were too late to board the flight before takeoff. They refused the alternative flight on German carrier Lufthansa that was offered, and instead went public, accusing the U.S. of trying to force them into “strip searches.”

“U.S. air security officials … opened suitcases and handbags of each member of the presidential entourage, forced them to take off clothes and shoes and thoroughly searched even the sensitive parts of the body,” Choe Su Hon said at a news conference. “This incident cannot be construed otherwise than an intentional and premeditated plot made in advance according to the manuscript of the U.S. administration.” In a statement, the Foreign Ministry also warned, “the United States will come to know what a dear price it will have to pay for having hurt our people’s dignity.”

A State Department insider, speaking on condition of anonymity, told an Associated Press reporter Tuesday that the Koreans had not informed the U.S. that they would be flying an American carrier from Frankfurt. Generally, diplomats who are accredited by the United Nations and the State Department are exempt from the more stringent security rules attached to passengers from countries on the United States’ terrorism list, but the North Korea delegation was not. Stringent airport security provisions have been in place for North Koreans since the State Department designated the country a “state sponsor of terrorism” for its alleged responsibility in the bombing deaths of 115 aboard a South Korean jet in 1987. According to the State Department’s global terrorism homepage, North Korea also provided refuge to members of the Japanese Communist League-Red Army Faction; which hijacked a North Korean-bound Japan Airlines jet in 1970; attempted to kidnap a North Korean diplomat who was trying to defect to Thailand in 1999; and stands accused of acting as a weapons shop for terrorist organizations. North Koreans aren’t the only foreigners subjected to the pat-downs, bag searches and body searches imposed on the 15-member delegation by American Airlines. Other nations bearing the State Department’s scarlet letter are Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Libya, Sudan and Syria.

Nonetheless, American Airlines issued an apology: “We are sorry for the inconvenience caused Monday to the North Korean diplomatic delegation.” The airline also reiterated in its statement that it was bound by FAA security policies: “As a U.S. carrier we are obliged under Federal Aviation Administration regulations to carry out stringent security procedures for all passengers traveling on our international flights.”

The North Korea contretemps raised questions about whether other summit attendees were submitted to embarrassing security searches. Calls to American Airlines’ spokesperson seeking answers to additional questions remained unanswered at press time.

When asked to comment on the security procedures, Rebecca Trexler, spokeswoman for the FAA, said, “I can’t. We can say that they’re enhanced security procedures, but I can’t describe publicly what they are because that would be telling the bad guys what to do. My understanding is that they weren’t strip-searched, they were subjected to pat-downs, and I think they asked them to take off their jackets and shoes. They [the American Airlines employees] were in compliance with FAA regulations.”

White House spokesman Joe Lockhart stopped short of an apology for the incident, but did state, “We regret that they got on a plane and headed back home.”

The northernmost Koreans had been oozing goodwill in recent weeks, making subtle and overt humanitarian and diplomatic gestures toward South Korea. The Pyongyang government, for example, permitted several dozen aging Communists to see their 90-year-old mothers in South Korea last month, and has allowed other North-South family visits.

The strip-search flap left many wondering how it would affect the end of the ice age between the two Koreas. South Korea’s president Kim told the AP he didn’t expect it to stop “the trend of a thaw between the North and South.”

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Daryl Lindsey is associate editor of Salon News and an Arthur Burns fellow. He currently lives in Berlin and writes for Salon and Die Welt.

Take-home test

Gov. Bush says he has been reading a biography of former Secretary of State Dean Acheson. Here's a reading comprehension exam for the GOP front-runner.

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By now most of the politerati agree that the pop quiz about foreign leaders that George W. Bush failed was not a fair measure of his intellectual abilities. But the concern about whether he has the candle-power to be president lingers.

At the Dec. 2 debate in New Hampshire, Fox News Channel moderator Brit Hume asked Bush what he reads, and Bush cited a biography of Dean Acheson, who was secretary of state for President Harry Truman. His aides later identified the book as “Acheson: The Secretary of State Who Created the American World,” by James Chace, a highly regarded expert on international affairs.

That’s certainly egghead reading material. But at the next debate, when CNN’s Judy Woodruff asked Bush what lessons he had drawn from Acheson’s career in foreign affairs, he barely answered the question, offering only familiar bromides from his stump speech, such as “we must promote the peace” and “free trade brings … hope and prosperity.”

Moments later, Sen. John McCain, in a less than subtle dig, called attention to Bush’s vacuous response by making a specific reference to Acheson: “When Dean Acheson walked into Harry Truman’s office in June of 1950 and said, ‘North Korea’s attacked South Korea,’ Harry Truman didn’t take a poll. Harry Truman knew what we had to do.”

Actually, according to Chace’s book, Acheson phoned Truman, who was in Missouri, with the news, and it took Truman a full day to decide how to respond. But give McCain a B-minus for improvising an answer that placed Acheson, more or less, in his correct context.

Who would have guessed that Dean Acheson would be a campaign issue
28 years after his death? Luckily, Bush still has a chance to redeem himself on this front. Below is a pop quiz based on the Acheson biography. We invite the Texas governor to take the test (without, of course, looking at the answers that follow). If nothing else, a decent score would put to rest any doubts about Bush’s reading comprehension skills.

Questioners in future debates should feel free to steal from the list that follows, as well.

1) When Acheson was a student at Yale, what was his grade point average?

2) To what was Acheson referring when he said he had visited “one of these mad and not a little degrading spectacles [and] nothing would induce me to do it again”?

3) In 1933, Acheson was appointed undersecretary of the Treasury to serve beneath Treasury Secretary William Woodin. How did Woodin obtain his position? How much banking experience did Woodin have? What did Woodin’s appointment reveal about U.S. politics?

4) After falling out of favor with President Roosevelt, why did Acheson not ally himself with the Republican Party?

5) Of what job did Acheson say, “there is only one test — who can best pilot the ship in … crisis?”

6) According to Chace, what was Acheson’s credo?

a) “I am ready to lead.”

b) “Look at my record.”

c) “Not compromise but decision.”

d) “I want to accomplish something.”

7) When President Harry Truman, 13 days after the death of President Roosevelt, was first informed by Secretary of War Henry Stimson about the secret project to build an atomic bomb, how long did the meeting last?

8) Whom did McGeorge Bundy, national security advisor to President John F. Kennedy, describe this way: “[He] seldom went beyond the counsel he had to choose from. He was not an initiator but a chooser; the buck stopped here, but he waited for the buck to arrive”? Hint: Keep your eye on the buck.

9) Explain the Bretton Woods agreements. Keep your answer to sound bite length.

10) True or false: When Truman in 1947 issued the Truman Doctrine, a challenge to Communism, and declared “it must be the policy of the United States to support free peoples who are resisting attempted subjugation by armed minorities or by outside pressures,” he and Acheson meant this literally and intended to stick to these words regarding U.S. actions around the world.

11) Which of the following took the position in 1948 that the “United States has little strategic interest in maintaining the present troops and bases in Korea” and advised Washington to accept Soviet domination of Korea and send aid instead to “countries of greater strategic importance”?

a) the American Communist Party

b) Sen. Prescott Bush

c) Gen. Dwight Eisenhower

d) the New York Times editorial board

12) When confronted with a hard decision — what to say about accused Soviet spy Alger Hiss, whose brother had been a law partner of Acheson — did Acheson rely on advisors and consultants?

13) When Acheson spoke before the American Society of Newspaper Editors in 1950, he decried Sen. Joe McCarthy’s anti-communist witch hunt and concluded his remarks on this subject with the words of poet John Donne: “Any man’s death diminishes me, because I am involved in mankind. And therefore …” Complete the quote Acheson used. (Hint: The lines do not rhyme.)

14. When Acheson briefed President-elect Eisenhower in 1952, what foreign policy problem did he have no solution for?

15) How did Acheson describe President Kennedy’s Bay of Pigs operation against Cuba?

a) “poorly planned”

b) “worth trying”

c) “a bungled toy-soldier campaign mounted by a playboy”

d) “asinine”

16) During the Cuban missile crisis, the Pentagon proposed a strong military response that could have led to an invasion of Cuba. Why did that nearly lead to nuclear war?

17) What lesson of the Korean War did Acheson believe applied to the Vietnam
War?

18) In 1967, Acheson, who was an informal advisor to President Lyndon B. Johnson,
suspected he was not being provided accurate information about the war in
Vietnam, and he stormed out of a White House meeting with the president.
Afterward, a Johnson aide called Acheson and asked why he had left so
abruptly. What was Acheson’s reply?

19) What books did Acheson like to read? You will receive extra credit for drawing lessons applicable to the present from any of them.

1) As Chace writes, “his grades rarely rose above a C average.”

2) Political conventions.

3) Woodin, president of the American Car & Foundry Co., was appointed because he had contributed $10,000 to Franklin Roosevelt’s campaign. He had no banking experience. The appointment showed that in politics, money talks and big-bucks contributors get paybacks from the politicians they fund.

4) Acheson objected to the Republican effort to red-bait FDR’s New Deal by tagging it as communism. “It seems to me utterly fantastic to suggest,” Acheson said, “that Communism is in any manner involved in this campaign. It serves only to arouse spirit of bigotry … I am against any party which inflames this spirit.”

5) The presidency.

6) c) “Not compromise but decision.”

7) Fifteen minutes.

8) Harry Truman.

9) These international monetary accords, negotiated in 1944 in New Hampshire, established the economic and financial underpinnings of the postwar world and set up the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank.

10) False. Acheson shortly thereafter said the Truman administration was not committed to “an ideological crusade” everywhere around the world. Years later, he explained that in the early days of the Cold War such rhetoric was necessary because it was “clearer than the truth.”

11) b) Eisenhower. Four years later, when Eisenhower was the Republican presidential nominee, Eisenhower opportunistically blasted Acheson and the Truman administration for inviting the attack on South Korea by putting it outside “America’s so-called defensive perimeter.”

12) No. He later said, “I felt that advisors were of no use and so consulted none. I understood that I had responsibilities above and beyond my own desires.” When asked about Alger Hiss, Acheson referred to a New Testament passage calling for compassion and said, “I do not intend to turn my back on Alger Hiss.” He was vilified by political foes for this.

13) “… never send to know for whom the bell tolls; It tolls for thee.”

14) Vietnam. At the time the French were trying to quell a
nationalist-communist movement there, and Acheson didn’t believe the French could succeed.

15) d. “asinine.” He thought Kennedy’s obsession with Castro’s Cuba was, Chace writes, “a distraction from the central strategic concerns of the United States.”

16) The United States didn’t know that Soviet troops stationed in Cuba possessed tactical nuclear weapons and were authorized to use them should the Americans invade. The presence of these weapons were not disclosed until 1993.

17) Distrust the predictions of the U.S. military.

18) “You can tell the president — and you can tell him in precisely these words — that he can take Vietnam and stick it up his ass.”

19) Biographies of statesmen, such as Benjamin Disraeli. Fiction by Tobias Smollett and Charles Dickens. Books on the Civil War. And Thucydides’ “Peloponnesian War.”

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David Corn is the Washington editor of the Nation, a columnist for the New York Press and author of a political suspense novel, "Deep Background" (St.Martin's Press).

Korea’s no-man’s-land

Rolf Potts describes a visit to Korea's DMZ, one of the planet's oddest tourist attractions, where visitors can pick up everything from propaganda to perfume.

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Just behind the video-projection screen in the basement of the Cass ‘N’ Rock sports bar in Pusan, Korea, there hangs a large red flag that reads: “If the South Would’ve Won, We Would’ve Had it Made.”

Never mind that this is a Confederate battle flag. Never mind that this slogan is written in English. Never mind that the flag also bears the visage of Hank Williams Jr.

At the Cass ‘N’ Rock — where Korean university students gather to drink beer, eat dried squid and watch soccer games on the big-screen TV — the South in question has nothing to do with Robert E. Lee, King Cotton or the Heart of Dixie. At this South Korean sports bar, the Stars and Bars banner is a quirky, sorrowful symbol of a different war — one that began 48 years ago, killed more than 2 million Koreans and resolved nothing.

For those keeping score at home, this war is technically not over: 250 miles north of the Cass ‘N’ Rock, upwards of a million troops are locked in a 45-year-old standoff between North Korean and United Nations Command forces along the most militarized border in the world.

Holding true to the absurdities of Cold War-era nomenclature, this border is called the Demilitarized Zone.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – -

It’s just after 8 in the morning, and I am taking a USO bus north from Seoul to the DMZ. This trip is not as sensitive and dangerous as it sounds: Approximately 70,000 people took the trip last year, including President Clinton.

In the seat next to me, a 50ish woman from Virginia is entranced by the empty yellow countryside that surrounds us. She’s been staying in the urban madness of Seoul for four days, and she says she never knew that the Korean landscape could look so quiet.

But the landscape is not as empty as it appears at first glance. Gaze long at these roadside foothills and you can just make out trenches and camouflage netting, infantry soldiers and artillery. A mere 40 road miles separate Seoul from the entrenched front rank of a million-man North Korean army, and every inch of the space in between has been groomed to defending South Korea’s capital from attack. As we near the DMZ, the military presence becomes more obvious: razor-wire fences on the Imjin River, anti-tank barricades framing the highway, medieval-looking iron-spiked barrels gracing the asphalt.

The Virginian asks me if I’ve ever been scared, living and working in Korea for the past two years. I tell her that Korea is a strange place where gruesome traffic deaths are an hourly occurrence, rival sects of Buddhist monks get into public fistfights and department store buildings collapse because the local building inspectors live off bribes. If anything, I tell her, I am scared of getting run over by a delivery truck or smashed by a poorly installed I-beam. The threat of war is a forgettable annoyance that I think about only when a civil defense drill halts my bus when I am late for work, or when my middle-age landlady tells me how she learned to throw hand grenades in her high school gym class.

What I don’t tell her is this: If the North were to launch an all-out surprise attack on Seoul this evening, we’d stand about a 50-50 chance of living through the first hour. That’s a statistic I don’t dwell on much.

The paper I have just signed my name to reads: “The visit to the Joint
Security Area at Panmunjom will entail entry into a hostile area and the
possibility of death as a direct result of enemy action.” The 50 or
so other people in the Camp Bonifas briefing room have all signed the
same disclaimer, and a gangly, bespectacled U.S. Army specialist is
handing out the green U.N. Command visitor’s badges that will allow us
to proceed a few hundred meters farther up the road and enter the DMZ.

Despite the grim warning, no tourist has ever died while visiting the
Joint Security Area. The U.N. Command troops haven’t always been so
lucky. Since 1953, more than 50 American and 500 South Korean soldiers have
died as a result of North Korean hostilities along the DMZ. Camp
Bonifas itself is named for a U.S. Army captain who was summarily axed
to death by North Korean soldiers while leading a tree-trimming detail
in the JSA in 1976.

The lights go down in the briefing hall, and Spc. Vance begins
showing us slides. The DMZ is 2,000 meters wide, he tells us, and
stretches the entire length of the Korean peninsula. Minefields,
anti-tank barriers and razor-wire fences installed by U.N. Command
troops stretch from coast to coast to defend from a North Korean attack.
Our tour group will soon enter the truce village of Panmunjom, the only
official crossing point along the DMZ. Over the years, Panmunjom has
gained notoriety as an exchange zone for prisoners, a meeting place for
the Military Armistice Commission and — most recently — a
crossing-point for 1,001 head of cattle donated to North Korea by a
wealthy South Korean businessman.

Spc. Vance’s lecture touches on the history of the Korean War, but
sidesteps the more embarrassing American details. For instance, we
don’t learn that in 1945 a Europe-based U.S. Army colonel studied a
National Geographic wall map for just 30 minutes before choosing to
divide Korea into Soviet and American occupation zones along the 38th
Parallel. We don’t learn that right-wing thugs appointed by the U.S.
Army Military Government in Korea slaughtered as many as 30,000 people
during a leftist insurrection on Cheju Island in 1948. We don’t learn
how the June 1950 North Korean invasion of the South was inadvertently
green-lighted when U.S. Secretary of State Dean Acheson forgot to
include South Korea within the U.S. defense perimeter during a speech to
the National Press Club six months earlier.

We do learn, however, that there are no toilets for tourists in the DMZ.
Once the lights come back on, we all take our turn in the Camp Bonifas
facilities before loading onto the bus and entering no man’s land.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - –
-

I am now standing in North Korea, and the industrial-strength
disinfectant odor reminds me of a similarly brief visit I made to the
porn-theater peep booths in Times Square several years ago.

Across a conference table from me, the rest of my tour group stands in
South Korea. They will all eventually get their chance to rotate into
North Korean territory and take a few pictures. Spc. Vance
explains how this Military Armistice Commission conference room
precisely straddles the demarcation line that separates the two Koreas.

The Virginia woman and I swap cameras and take each other’s picture
standing next to the tough-looking South Korean guards at the far end of
the room. This is probably as far as any of us will ever venture into
the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea.

The North Korea that stretches beyond this conference room has long been
the weirdest, most isolated country in the world. Press releases from
the official DPRK news agency often come off sounding like bad
vaudeville jokes:

Question: How does North Korea solve its famine problems?

Answer: By publicly executing its Minister of Agriculture.

Don’t bother cueing the snare drum. This actually happened in 1997 —
the same year that North Korea’s squatty, rotund “Dear Leader” Kim
Jong-Il supposedly shot 38-under-par (including five holes-in-one) the
first time he ever played golf.

North Korea’s propaganda is outdone only by its military provocations,
which over the years have included two assassination attempts on South
Korean presidents, four large-scale invasion tunnels burrowed under the
DMZ and countless small border skirmishes, kidnappings and commando
invasions.

The most publicized incursion of recent years came in 1996, when a spy
submarine from the North ran aground on South Korea’s east coast,
resulting in a massive manhunt and fierce gun battles in the mountains
of Kangwon Province. After this incident, the North Korean government
issued a rare apology, promising that such a thing would never happen
again. Last June, it happened again, in nearly the same location.

On this particular day, the North’s provocation of choice concerns an
enormous underground construction site near the North Korean area of
Kumchang. Government officials in Pyongyang insist the facility will be
used for purely civilian purposes, but American officials are convinced
it’s a nuclear weapons plant. Pyongyang is demanding a $300 million
payment before it will allow inspectors onto the site.

If North Korea is indeed developing nuclear weapons, it will be in
violation of the 1994 Geneva Agreed Framework, when Pyongyang pledged to
freeze its nuclear program in exchange for two light-water nuclear
reactors and interim fuel from the United States. But North Korea’s
main bargaining chip has always been its seeming willingness to start a
war that would kill tens of thousands of people and devastate the Korean
peninsula. Amid tensions prior to the 1994 compromise, the U.S.
nearly initiated the evacuation of 80,000 American civilians from South
Korea. Whether the current impasse will require similar gestures
remains to be seen.

At this moment, nuclear tensions are secondary to flashing cameras, as
the last few members of my tour group pose for snapshots with the South
Korean guards. After 10 minutes in the far end of the Military
Armistice Commission building, this blue-walled slab of the communist
North has begun to lose its novelty. I feel like the South Korean
guards could just as well be wearing Donald Duck suits.

Spc. Vance, I notice, is glancing at his watch.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - –
-

U.N.C. Checkpoint Five offers us fresh air and a good view of the
Bridge of No Return, where more than 12,000 prisoners of war were swapped in
1953.

Despite its ominous name, the Bridge of No Return looks downright
bucolic. Were it not for the huge white North Korean propaganda signs
erected Hollywood-style on the hills across the demarcation line, one
might readily mistake the entire Joint Security Area for a Lutheran
Youth Fellowship summer camp in rural Missouri.

Large white birds preen in the tall grass down the hill from the
Checkpoint Five observation deck. Recent wildlife surveys have
confirmed the existence of 146 species of rare animals and plants in the
DMZ, including Siberian herons, kestrels, white-naped cranes and
black-faced spoonbills. The untouched
two-kilometer swath that separates North from South is the most pristine
piece of property in this entire land, where population pressure has
endangered 18 percent of all native vertebrate species. Foxes, roe deer, black swans, quail
and pheasant thrive in the dense foliage. All animals large enough to
set off a landmine, on the other hand, haven’t lived in the DMZ in
decades.

This day is so foggy you can just barely make out the location of
Taesong-dong, South Korea’s “Freedom Village” in the DMZ. Here, a
handful of farmers make their living under strict regulations to be home
from the fields by nightfall. The North’s DMZ village, called
Kijong-dong, is uninhabited, and used primarily to blast propaganda and
patriotic music at the South. At this moment, the loudspeakers of
Kijong-dong are blaring what I assume are slogans praising Kim Jong-Il,
but sound indistinguishable from the garbled entree clarifications one
might hear at a Burger King drive-through window.

Spc. Vance tells us that the South Korean flag at Taesong-dong
weighs 300 pounds and is hoisted on a 100-meter pole. Not to be
outdone, the North Koreans have erected a 600-pound flag on a 160-meter
pole at Kijong-dong. Someone makes the obligatory Freudian analogy and,
as if on cue, the loudspeakers of Kijong-dong switch over to communist
opera music so boisterous that it sounds like the score to a Monty
Python movie.

For a moment, I slip into reverie at the absurdity of this grassy
stretch of ground. The mood here seems downright extraterrestrial.
Inspired, I ask Spc. Vance if we’re allowed to dance to the
communist opera music.

There is an awkward moment before he realizes that I’m joking. It’s the
first time I’ve seen fear in his eyes since the tour began.

- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - –
-

The tourist circuit of the Korean DMZ ends at the Monastery, a
combination beer hall/gift shop at Camp Bonifas. In keeping with the
rest of the DMZ, the Monastery is appropriately weird: One corner
houses a shrine to the victims of the 1976 Panmunjom Ax Murder
Incident, another houses a bar and a third corner sports a perfume
counter. In the course of 20 paces, one can buy Amore skin cream, quaff
a Budweiser and peruse grainy black-and-white surveillance photographs
of Capt. Arthur G. Bonifas and Lt. Mark T. Barrett getting
hacked to death by a swarm of North Korean soldiers. T-shirts come in
three colors. Visa and MasterCard are accepted.

Longing for one last look at the DMZ before we head back to Seoul, I
duck out of the Monastery and walk out past the tour bus. I turn around
and around in the road, but I have forgotten which way North Korea is.

It’s so quiet here, the only sound is the scrape of my footsteps.

I stop for a moment and reach into my bag for the DMZ commemorative key chain I got at the Monastery. I bought it in a moment of impulse, thinking perhaps there will come a day when I
can shake my head and chuckle at the idea that this place ever existed.

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Rolf Potts' Vagabonding column appears every other Tuesday in Salon Travel. For more columns by Potts, visit his column archive.

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