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	<title>Salon.com > Restaurant Culture</title>
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	<link>http://www.salon.com</link>
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		<title>Henry Rollins hosts new show &#8220;Animal Underworld&#8221;</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2011/06/15/henry_rollins_exotic_animals_nat_geographic/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2011/06/15/henry_rollins_exotic_animals_nat_geographic/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 15 Jun 2011 19:16:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Arts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Noble Beasts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reality TV]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Television]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/entertainment/tv/feature/2011/06/15/henry_rollins_exotic_animals_nat_geographic</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Nat Geo Wild has hired the Black Flag frontman to host a show about exotic creatures and the people who eat them]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Henry Rollins is coming to National Geographic Wild, and he's going to shake things up! In a new show called "<a href="http://www.avclub.com/articles/henry-rollins-will-intimidate-people-who-eat-exoti,57583">Animal Underworld</a>" the spoken-word artist will travel to different locales and see how people use (and potentially abuse) exotic creatures.</p><p>&#160;Just for a quick reference, this is Henry Rollins' second time on Nat Geo Wild: He previously hosted "Snake Underworld," where he sat around and watched a guy shoot up black mamba poison. Why? Because that is how Rollins rolls, yo. And because it makes for some great television.</p><p>
    <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/omM7pTL0Geg" width="425"></iframe>
  </p><p>I'm guessing "Animal Underworld" is going to be a lot like this clip, except with grosser stunts ("Watch me drink this lemur piss!") and more public advocacy for not doing horrible things to animals ("Please don't capture endangered lemurs to drink their piss, good sir"). According to <a href="http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/nat-geo-wild-picks-up-200898">National Geographic's senior V.P.</a>:</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2011/06/15/henry_rollins_exotic_animals_nat_geographic/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>8</slash:comments>
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		<title>Is the signature dish outdated?</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2011/05/26/jason_franey_duck/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2011/05/26/jason_franey_duck/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 May 2011 20:45:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chefs and Cooks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurants]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2011/05/26/jason_franey_duck</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A Seattle chef's duck specialty is divine but that doesn't mean it is -- or should be -- on the menu]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>On the subject of duck, I confess that I am a chauvinist. There is the one, true way to prepare it -- roasted, Chinatown style -- and there is everything else. But the young chef Jason Franey's version at the Seattle landmark <a href="http://www.canlis.com/">Canlis</a> is making me reconsider my prejudices. Brown as bourbon, the skin is like a crust, bowing over the breast, hugging it jealously. It crackles somewhere between crisp and crunch, a little like puffed rice, before dissolving into honey sweetness and black pepper heat. The meat has that deep, bass-note richness you want from duck, but is thick with flavors I can't place: complex, swirling, delirious-making.</p><p><a href="http://www.gilttaste.com"><img class='wp-image-10048104' src='http://media.salon.com/2011/05/ID_giltTaste1.gif' /></a> It was early spring and it was a dish very much of the moment, the bird served with wilted ramps, spring onions, pearl onions and a sauce of cream infused with onions. A few baby spring turnips. All things with bite, mellowed by youth and cooking. As I ate, I thought, "What makes duck more delicious than onions?" And also this: "In a few weeks, when spring is gone, this dish won't be here anymore."</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2011/05/26/jason_franey_duck/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>29</slash:comments>
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		<title>Save the children from Hooters?</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/12/17/hooters_kids/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/12/17/hooters_kids/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Dec 2010 21:42:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Broadsheet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Feminism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Love and Sex]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/life/broadsheet//2010/12/17/hooters_kids</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[NOW calls on the breast-obsessed chain to stop serving kids]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The National Organization for Women is protesting Hooters. I know: <em>Yawn.</em> Next I'll be interrupting major sporting events with breaking news that Gloria Steinem isn't a fan of the "Girls Gone Wild" franchise. But, seriously, the argument at play here is more interesting than it at first seems. It isn't the breast-obsessed chain's existence that is being challenged, but rather the fact that Hooters serves children. Clearly, there is abundant evidence that Hooters is guilty of poor taste (see: restaurant name) -- but should the chain be forced to card customers at the door and turn away anyone younger than 18? Several California chapters of NOW have filed official complaints alleging just that.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/12/17/hooters_kids/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>231</slash:comments>
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		<title>What do we tip waiters for?</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/09/30/what_do_we_tip_waiters_for/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/09/30/what_do_we_tip_waiters_for/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Sep 2010 11:01:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Business]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurants]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/09/30/what_do_we_tip_waiters_for</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A veteran server reveals how we really don't care about the service when we tip, and how he makes more money]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Nearly anyone will tell you that they tip their servers depending on how well they've been treated. It's an easy transaction: be nice to me, be efficient, and I'll give you more at the end of the meal.</p><p>Only it's not really so simple. Have you ever found yourself tipping a server differently because they were good-looking? Or because you were embarrassed by your dad's off-color jokes? Or even because they sassed you, but they sassed you in all the right ways?</p><p>While writing <a href="http://www.salon.com/food/eating_and_talking/index.html?story=/food/francis_lam/2010/09/28/chicago_hot_dog_wieners_circle">the story yesterday</a> on the very odd (and, to my mind, very disturbing) relationship between the abusive customers and staff at a Chicago hot dog stand, I recalled an old waiter friend telling me that he liked to approach his tables with an aloofness, but also with charm, so that they would work to win his approval ... and that usually meant a bigger tip.</p><p>So I called Steve Dublanica, author of the blog and book <a href="http://waiterrant.net/">"Waiter Rant"</a> and the forthcoming <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0061787280?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=saloncom08-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=0061787280">"Keep the Change: A Clueless Tipper's Quest to Become the Guru of the Gratuity,"</a> to talk about the relationships -- and strategies -- of tippers and tip-getters.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/09/30/what_do_we_tip_waiters_for/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>94</slash:comments>
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		<title>Where a $40 cocktail is worth it for the theater alone</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/06/04/bar_hemingway_crass_americans/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/06/04/bar_hemingway_crass_americans/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jun 2010 12:01:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cocktails and Spirits]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Francis in France!]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/06/04/bar_hemingway_crass_americans</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Rich people say the darnedest things when you're eavesdropping on them at the Bar Hemingway in the Ritz]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Ritz in <a href="http://www.salon.com/food/francis_in_france/index.html">Paris</a> is nearly the definition of fancy. A hotel built literally like a palace, it's where the word "ritzy" comes from, where Auguste Escoffier codified and invented generations' worth of French haute cuisine. Deep inside the hotel, past a hallway of toys for the private-island set, is the <a href="http://www.ritzparis.com/home_ritz/home.asp?show_all=1">Bar Hemingway</a>, a shrine to the original Big Papa's version of American manliness, where his favorite typewriter sits above the fireplace and his hunting rifle hangs above the bar. And hiding in this particular bush with a friend the other night, I spied for myself a rare and elusive species: the Crass Jetsetter (Uglius Americanus).</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/06/04/bar_hemingway_crass_americans/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>17</slash:comments>
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		<title>Stoner food goes upscale</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/05/19/stoner_food/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/05/19/stoner_food/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 19 May 2010 17:01:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chefs and Cooks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Business]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food traditions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/05/19/stoner_food</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[How star chefs' marijuana habits are inspiring menus to satisfy your munchies -- and a new restaurant trend]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you've met a lot of professional chefs, you probably know the following: A lot of them are often really, really stoned. It makes sense: Chefs work long hours, in a frenetic environment -- and pot is a great way for them to let off some steam, and, for several chefs I know, make some easy extra money on the side. But according to today's <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/19/dining/19pot.html?ref=dining&amp;pagewanted=all">New York Times,</a> this restaurant stoner culture is increasingly having an influence on not just the chefs' off-duty moods, but on the food they serve in their restaurants. And this, obviously, calls for a food trend: Hello, upscale stoner food!</p><p>As Severson writes, "a small but influential band of cooks says both their chin-dripping, carbohydrate-heavy food and the accessible, feel-good mood in their dining rooms are influenced by the kind of herb that can get people arrested." Among the examples of this haute pothead cuisine are Roy Choi's Kogi taco trucks (which fuse Mexican and Korean food), New York's Momofuku Milk Bar (which serves things like "cereal milk" soft serve), Roberta's in Brooklyn (with its breakfast burrito pizza) and Animal in L.A. (which serves an upscale version of French Canadian poutine, composed of French fries, cheddar and gravy).</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/05/19/stoner_food/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>20</slash:comments>
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		<title>Is it possible to dine out politely with kids?</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/05/13/how_to_go_to_restaurants_with_kids/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/05/13/how_to_go_to_restaurants_with_kids/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 May 2010 17:14:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Parenting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/05/13/how_to_go_to_restaurants_with_kids</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Going to restaurants with children can be like target practice for dirty looks, but you can dodge and deflect]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Is there any hatred more vile and seething than that reserved for parents and young children by people not in the mood? In cities, particularly, it becomes turf war: small spaces and bulky bourgie baby-care accoutrements really don't mix. I love kids (Hi, Peanut!), but there is a dark chamber of even my heart that opens up when I'm in a hurry and the entire sidewalk is taken up by a double-wide stroller. And nowhere are the battle lines more drawn than in restaurants.</p><p>"The first warning is when you see the parents enter the restaurant with a stroller the size of a KIA. From there they will ensure that no one enjoys their dinner until after they're gone. I sincerely think it's intentional," a commenter on <a href="http://seriouseats.com">Serious Eats</a> replied to <a href="http://newyork.seriouseats.com/2010/05/kids-in-high-end-restaurants-yay-or-nay-polls.html">a poll</a> on whether children should be allowed in high-end restaurants. Granted, this commenter calls him/herself "Leper," so there may be something else going on psychologically there, but that level of animosity, resentment and contempt is not out of range for what I hear uttered about parents with kids at tables.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/05/13/how_to_go_to_restaurants_with_kids/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>151</slash:comments>
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		<title>When the chef is psycho, what&#8217;s a customer to do?</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/05/12/marc_forgione_ron_lieber_restaurant_controversy/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/05/12/marc_forgione_ron_lieber_restaurant_controversy/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 May 2010 17:13:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chefs and Cooks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/05/12/marc_forgione_ron_lieber_restaurant_controversy</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A writer gets tossed out of a restaurant after standing up for a berated server, but I'm not sure he was a hero]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It really isn't often you get edge-of-your-seat drama on a food blog, so I was titillated yesterday by <a href="http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/05/11/why-i-got-kicked-out-of-a-restaurant-on-saturday-night/?src=twt&amp;twt=dinersjournal">a story</a> in the New York Times' Diner's Journal by financial writer Ron Lieber about getting thrown out of a restaurant by its apparently psychotic chef, <a href="http://marcforgione.com">Marc Forgione</a>, after standing up to the kitchen maniac and defending a server he was haranguing. I've worked with <a href="http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/04/01/bourdain_kitchen_confidential_no_more">some screamers</a> in my cooking career, and while I understand how crazy pressure gets in the heat of service, I have little sympathy for dealers of that kind of abuse. (For a cook getting creamed by a full rack of order tickets, plenty of abuse already comes from within.) But I was surprised by how much I found my sympathies shifting from the writer to the chef as I read the woeful tale.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/05/12/marc_forgione_ron_lieber_restaurant_controversy/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>65</slash:comments>
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		<title>&#8216;Top Chef&#8217; judge Colicchio named top chef for 2010</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/05/04/us_beard_awards_restaurants/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/05/04/us_beard_awards_restaurants/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 17:23:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chefs and Cooks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Top Chef]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/05/04/us_beard_awards_restaurants</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The James Beard Foundation honors a man with Julia Child's birthday and James Beard's hairstyle]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>"Top Chef" judge Tom Colicchio passed a quickfire challenge of his own Monday when he was named the nation's top chef by the James Beard Foundation.</p><p>Colicchio, whose numerous restaurants include Craft, Craftsteak and the recently opened Colicchio &amp; Sons in New York, was named outstanding chef during an awards ceremony that is considered the Oscars of the food world. It's an honor for which he'd been a finalist seven other times since 2002, the same year the organization named Craft the nation's best new restaurant.</p><p>Though Colicchio drew many accolades early in his career, he rose to prominence in 1994 when he and partner Danny Meyer opened Gramercy Tavern, which earned Colicchio three stars from The New York Times and several Beard awards, including best chef in New York City in 2000 and outstanding restaurant service in 2001.</p><p>Colicchio's cookbook, "Think Like a Chef," earned him a Beard cookbook award in 2001. More recently, he's become known for his role as the lead judge on the Bravo television series, "Top Chef."</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/05/04/us_beard_awards_restaurants/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
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		<title>Some love for the Waffle House</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/04/14/waffle_house_flirting_open2010/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/04/14/waffle_house_flirting_open2010/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Apr 2010 17:01:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[American Regional Cuisines]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Eating and Talking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/04/14/waffle_house_flirting_open2010</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[After driving by them for years, I finally stopped in, and the world became a better place]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>
    <em>A version of this story originally appeared on <a href="http://open.salon.com/blog/ann_nichols">Sprezzatura</a>.</em>
  </p><p><a href="http://wafflehouse.com">Waffle House</a> is the unofficial flower of the Southern Interstate. Driving back north from the Gulf Coast on I-65, their yellow signs blossom in hamlets from Alabama to Kentucky. I've taken this route for years now, but my mother has thwarted every one of my romantic urges to pull in for a waffle, to meet locals and chitchat with a folksy waitress holding a coffeepot. Finally, this year, somewhere near Franklin, Tenn., I convinced her to give it a try.</p><p>On the way in, we were stopped by a gravel-voiced, sun-damaged woman in a Gatlinburg sweat shirt with silk-screened horses. "Where are y'all headed?" she asked, taking a drag off her cigarette. I told her we were on our way home to Michigan. "Must be snow there," she said, "we're out looking for snow." We live with shovels and kitty litter in our trunks from October to April, so the idea of "looking for snow" was highly amusing, but there had been a rare blizzard across the deep South the day before, and apparently Ms. Gaitlinburg and her crew were really driving around looking for snow. We wished her safe travels, and found ourselves a booth.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/04/14/waffle_house_flirting_open2010/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>42</slash:comments>
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		<title>KFC&#8217;s insane Double Down taste-tested: Release the cracklin&#8217;!</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/04/12/kfc_double_down_taste_test/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/04/12/kfc_double_down_taste_test/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:13:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Nutrition]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sacrificial Lam]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/04/12/kfc_double_down_taste_test</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Bacon, cheese, mayo-ish sauce and two slabs of fried chicken as the bread. A bite-by-bite account]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ladies and gentlemen: It's Double-D Day. After <a href="http://eater.com/archives/2010/04/09/kfc-double-down-field-guide.php">insane blogosphere buildup</a> and a menacing <a href="http://eater.com/archives/2010/04/09/kfc-double-down-field-guide.php">countdown timer</a> on its Web site, KFC finally <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rmbg6KQQOIs&amp;feature=fvw">released its Kraken</a>: a sandwich made of bacon, cheese, mayo-ish sauce and <em>two slabs of fried chicken as the bread.</em></p><p>Logic dictates that you have to look at the numbers. There are 540 calories in KFC's Double Down, <a href="http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/04/09/anticipating-monday-lunch-at-kfc/">about the same</a> as McDonald's suddenly quaint Big Mac. But the Double Down, and everybody's peeking-through-covered-eyes reaction to it, is not about logic. It's about balls.</p><p>The balls of a fast food chain, in the middle of rational America's hand-wringing about obesity and sustainable eating, to come out with a sandwich made of bacon, cheese, mayo-ish sauce and <em>two slabs of fried chicken as the bread</em>. The balls of KFC, which, in the weak-willed '90s, changed its brand from Kentucky Fried Chicken to its lame initials because it didn't want you to have to say the word "fried" every time you spoke its name. The Double-D is so macho, so deeply, dumbly <em>dude</em>, it's a sandwich for people who want to take down Michelle Obama in an arm wrestle.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/04/12/kfc_double_down_taste_test/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Why kitchens stopped being like pirate ships</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/04/02/bourdain_kitchen_confidential_no_more/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/04/02/bourdain_kitchen_confidential_no_more/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Apr 2010 00:35:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chefs and Cooks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/04/01/bourdain_kitchen_confidential_no_more</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[10 years after Anthony Bourdain's "Kitchen Confidential," the bad-boy chef is an endangered species]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ten years ago, Anthony Bourdain became a star when he released <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0060899220?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=saloncom08-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=0060899220">"Kitchen Confidential,"</a> his restaurant-as-pirate-ship memoir, and pretty much single-handedly defined our image of the "real life" of restaurant cooking: a manly adventure of hot-shit line cooks and sodomy, rum and lashes of cocaine. It's an intense world where the abuse comes from all angles, and, as in sports or war, is filled with heroic, violent mythmaking.</p><p>So when a chef in Canada got canned last week for speaking a <a href="http://www.cbc.ca/canada/manitoba/story/2010/03/29/man-pizzeria-gusto-bagshaw-fired.html#ixzz0jrbmijYW">little too frankly</a> to a journalist about life in his kitchen, Tim Hayward <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2010/mar/31/chefs-macho-memoirs">speculated</a> in the Guardian that the chef may have just been trying to join Bourdain's party: "By telling the gritty truth like 'chef' [Gordon] Ramsay does it, surely he should have expected admiration, kudos and unlimited girls ..." But for the chef's sake, I hope not. Because that ship has sailed -- a culture drowning, ironically, in the very waves of celebrity Bourdain helped to create.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/04/02/bourdain_kitchen_confidential_no_more/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Live octopus? Extreme eating clubs go for the gross-out factor</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/03/18/us_fea_food_adventure_eating/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/03/18/us_fea_food_adventure_eating/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Mar 2010 12:44:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Faddy foods]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food traditions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/03/18/us_fea_food_adventure_eating</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dinner that squirms is not for the squeamish. But is it true gastronomy or just macho foodie posturing?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ben Raisher watches as the writhing Octopus on his plate has its tentacles clipped with giant shears, then squirms in amber sesame oil like a pile of bisected earthworms.</p><p>With a deft pinch of his chopsticks, the wriggling, still-alive limb is in his mouth and down his throat.</p><p>Raisher, 28, smiles. It's what brought him to his local food adventure club, one of a handful of groups dedicated to dining on exotic and bizarre foods from New York to Denver to San Francisco.</p><p>The iron-stomached champions of New York City are the Gastronauts, who meet monthly to feast on foods many wouldn't consider, such as pig hearts and intestine in vinegar, goat kidneys or sauteed lamb's brains.</p><p>"Nothing's off the table," said co-founder Curtiss Calleo, who grew up in Austria and Italy and wants to bring Old World curiosity to New York plates. "Any restaurant worth its salt has sweetbreads or tongue or pork bellies. There's a food renaissance going on."</p><p>Offal is old hat for groups like the Boston Gastronauts and the Organ Meet Society of New York City. There are groups devoted to eating only insects and some that venture into extreme territory, like the San Francisco Food Adventure Club that recently organized a human placenta tasting (the dinner had to be canceled due to potential formaldehyde exposure).</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/03/18/us_fea_food_adventure_eating/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>9</slash:comments>
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		<title>Takeout falling from the sky!</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/03/04/takeout_falling_from_sky/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/03/04/takeout_falling_from_sky/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 18:05:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Eating and Talking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/03/04/takeout_falling_from_sky</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A small, strange moment last night in my neighborhood]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I don't live in a particularly creepy neighborhood, but it's a little curious when you get home to your apartment building and see someone staring intently into one of your neighbor's windows.</p><p>I couldn't tell what the man was looking at since he was trying to peer into one of the upper floors, but he stood stock still in the harsh glare of the security spotlight, looking like he was about to get sucked into a UFO by a tractor beam.</p><p>"Excuse me," I said. He came out of his Close Encounters of the Third Kind stare and I realized I willed myself to say something before I knew what to say. So I went, "Uh ... can I help you?" sounding like someone trying not very hard to sell him a television.</p><p>"Oh, hi," he said. Then, realizing why I was approaching, he said, "Oh, I live here. I'm just waiting for my girlfriend to toss some takeout at me."</p><p>"Excuse me?" I asked. "Someone is going to throw dinner at you?"</p><p>Just then he looked back up, and out of the glare of the security lamp, I could see the silhouette of a woman's head poke out from a window. She waved. "Hi, Babe!" she called in a dulcet tone while dangling a package much larger than I am comfortable seeing seven stories above my head.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/03/04/takeout_falling_from_sky/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Cuisine or death: The real chef&#8217;s motto</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/03/04/laiskonis_cuisine_or_death/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/03/04/laiskonis_cuisine_or_death/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 02:01:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bolivia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chefs and Cooks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Notes from the Kitchen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/03/03/laiskonis_cuisine_or_death</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[One of the world's best pastry chefs explains what drives him]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>You have to be so earnestly devoted that if you were any more devoted it would be perverse, and any less, it would not be enough. --</em> Charlie Trotter, "Becoming a Chef"</p><p>When I fell into this thing, this <em>cosa nostra</em> of cuisine, it was by accident. I had a background in fine art, and I was seduced by the creative process of cooking and the satisfaction of making things with my hands. Fifteen years later, I've been a baker, a line cook, a sous chef, now a pastry chef, and I can't imagine doing anything else. But back then, I never planned to make a career out of it, and the "foodie" culture we know today was still in its infancy. Back then, people still craved what came out of kitchens more than access into them.</p><p>Now, fueled by cooking shows and the Web, we have a culture of cuisine-as-entertainment. We're barraged by food porn, coffee-table cookbooks, and gritty tell-alls of the professional kitchen. Customers are constantly looking for what's new, the next big thing. As a professional, I've seen this culture make certain cooks hungry for stardom, hoping to be on TV shows and in magazines. But I've also seen that interest in cuisine shrink the world, making exotic ingredients more accessible, and push us to keep discovering new flavors and learning new techniques. It's a truly exciting time to be a chef, but it's always taken certain kinds of personalities to excel in cuisine, to have that geeky kind of masochism that drives us to aspire, impossibly, to perfection in both art and athleticism.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/03/04/laiskonis_cuisine_or_death/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>How restaurant menus make you spend more</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/02/22/how_menus_manipulate_diners/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/02/22/how_menus_manipulate_diners/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Feb 2010 12:45:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Business]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Psychology]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurant Culture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Restaurants]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/02/22/how_menus_manipulate_diners</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The right layout will make you lay out more cash. But is that so wrong?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This past Saturday morning, the buttery sound of Lynne Rossetto Kasper's words stopped me in mid-breakfast. On her radio show "<a href="http://splendidtable.publicradio.org/">The Splendid Table</a>," she spoke of menus being "invitations to pleasure," and there was something in that, with the sun streaming through my friend's window, that sounded wonderful and right. But her guest was William Poundstone, author of "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/080909469X?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=saloncom08-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=080909469X">Priceless: The Myth of Fair Value and How to Take Advantage of It</a>," and he talked about how restaurants use menus to manipulate you into spending more money than you intend.</p><p>"Menus," he said, "are supposed to be the classic example of free choice, but menu designers have found that there're many ways of getting you to order what the restaurant wants you to order" -- the most profitable dishes, presumably.</p><p>The techniques he laid out are fascinating: a box drawn around certain items, for instance, always draws the eyes -- and attention -- there. This might mean these dishes best highlight the kitchen's skills, or, more likely, they make the restaurant the most money: The ingredient cost is low, or maybe they take the least staff time to prepare.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/02/22/how_menus_manipulate_diners/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>26</slash:comments>
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		<title>Bad news! Chefs discover the Internet</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/02/17/online_chef_flame_wars/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/02/17/online_chef_flame_wars/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2010 16:18:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Restaurants]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/02/17/online_chef_flame_wars</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The New York Times finds that some restaurateurs are angry -- and really like tweeting about it]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Watch out everybody! Chefs have discovered this internet thingy -- and they're pissed off! In today's New York Times, Julia Moskin delves into an emerging, and highly entertaining new internet phenomenon: <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/17/dining/17angry.html?pagewanted=2&amp;hpw">The chef flame war.</a></p><p>As Moskin writes, many chefs are increasingly using Twitter, blogs and other websites to get even with people who are getting on their nerves. They're hitting back at critics (Kitchen Cabinet member Amanda Cohen took to her <a href="http://www.dirtcandynyc.com/?p=173">website</a> to rebut her restaurant's New York Times dining section <a href="http://events.nytimes.com/2009/03/11/dining/reviews/11brief-001.html">review</a>). They're sniping at each other (NY restaurateur Joe Dobias attacked superstar chef David Chang, Baohaus' <a href="http://thepopchef.blogspot.com/2010/02/places-that-suck.html">Eddie Huang</a> called one of his competitor restaurants a "hellhole"). They're striking back at uninformed bloggers (LA chef Ludovic Lefebre's wife, Kristine, reduced one <a href="http://dianatakesabite.blogspot.com/">food blogger</a> to tears by pointing out that her husband's tuna tartare isn't "underdone," that's the way it's meant to be), and taking user-reviewers to task (California chef <a href="http://twitter.com/jasonneroni">Jason Neroni's Twitter stream</a>: "Yelp is for cowards.") Oof. It's like the Wild West out there!</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/02/17/online_chef_flame_wars/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
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		<title>Restaurant critics stare into the abyss</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/01/25/do_restaurant_critics_matter/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/01/25/do_restaurant_critics_matter/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Jan 2010 17:26:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/01/25/do_restaurant_critics_matter</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[With Yelp and an infinite number of food blogs, do you care what the professionals have to say?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Pity the poor restaurant critic. Sure, they dine every night at the finest tables, someone else picks up the tab, and they call it work. But imagine being in their shoes, working in the age of <a href="http://yelp.com">yelp.com</a> and where everyone and their sister has a food blog telling you about where they had dinner last night. Wouldn't you feel a little bit like your profession is just staring into the abyss, waiting for someone to give you a push? (I was a writer for a magazine printed on dead trees. I know that feeling well.) A <a href="http://www.nyu.edu/ipk/events/91">panel</a> at New York University last week discussed the viability and purpose of professional restaurant critics, and the differences of views were stark.</p><p><a href="http://www.gq.com/food-travel/alan-richman/200602/profile">Alan Richman</a>, of GQ magazine and the most decorated food writer known to man, thinks the jig is up: Though he ripped his trademark witticisms, his eyes grew sad under his bushy eyebrows as he lamented the loss of detailed, crafted reviews in favor of "something like my blog posts, which I have to finish in half a day." Critics can no longer "appeal to a higher authority," he says, and find it difficult to be "constantly attacked." "Every time I write something, hundreds of people call me an asshole," he said, though to be frank I thought I also detected a hint of pride in that statement.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/01/25/do_restaurant_critics_matter/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Requiem for a (ridiculous) restaurant</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/01/15/requiem_for_tavern_on_the_green/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/01/15/requiem_for_tavern_on_the_green/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Jan 2010 01:20:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/01/14/requiem_for_tavern_on_the_green</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Tavern on the Green had famously awful food and absurd decor. But that didn't stop it from being truly beloved]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The year-round Christmas lights are off; the <a href="http://www.pbase.com/hjsteed/image/89341138">topiary of King Kong</a> goes ungroomed. The closing of Tavern on the Green, an outlandishly flamboyant restaurant in Central Park with famously awful food, might seem to be notable only to students of the New York restaurant scene. And yet, day after day, I find myself reading about its history, its bankruptcy, and now, the <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/07/nyregion/07tavern.html">auctioning</a> of its <a href="http://online.wsj.com/article/SB126282148438818743.html">property</a>. People are coming out of the tri-state woodwork hoping to land some of the most outrageous d&#233;cor pieces since the tsars stopped dropping acid. Some of them, maybe many of them, are building <a href="http://online.wsj.com/article/SB126282148438818743.html">homages</a> to the restaurant in their homes. With fandom like that, I knew I had to see the restaurant at least once, even if it meant crashing the auction. I had to find out what inspired such loyalty.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/01/15/requiem_for_tavern_on_the_green/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Behind the food truck divide</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2010/01/07/food_truck_lot/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2010/01/07/food_truck_lot/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Jan 2010 17:06:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Street food]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/01/07/food_truck_lot</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A new gourmet parking lot captures the media's attention -- but where does it leave traditional vendors?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Gourmet food trucks have been one of the more high-profile food trends over the past few years (L.A.&#8217;s <a href="http://www.google.com/url?q=http://kogibbq.com/&amp;ei=-PlFS63JJtSztgfH6Mz5AQ&amp;sa=X&amp;oi=spellmeleon_result&amp;resnum=1&amp;ct=result&amp;ved=0CAcQhgIwAA&amp;usg=AFQjCNHpvFLhVSC7CfCbNUFq-0h_tkR9mw">Kogi</a> Korean-Mexican fusion truck, New York&#8217;s <a href="http://www.biggayicecreamtruck.com/">Big Gay Ice Cream Truck</a>, and even the <a href="http://midtownlunch.com/2010/01/06/daniel-boulud-to-hit-the-streets-in-a-food-truck/">Daniel Boulud food truck</a>), but their hip vibe hasn&#8217;t kept them safe from red tape. As a recent Washington Post article <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/12/01/AR2009120100847.html">made clear</a>, truck operators face a myriad of complicated licensing and zoning regulations in cities around the country -- and hefty fines if, for example, they&#8217;re caught parked too long in the wrong place.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2010/01/07/food_truck_lot/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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