Russia
Islands only a mother could love
Simon Winchester visits the heartbreaking Kurile Islands -- ceded to Russia, claimed by Japan and lamented by the lonely soldiers who have to live there.
Some years ago I stood on a high headland on the far northern tip of the Japanese island of Hokkaido, and through powerful binoculars — costing 100 yen a minute — I gazed across the sea to one of the strangest and most unyielding legacies of the Second World War. A couple of miles away, shimmering in the sea-haze, rose a tiny island, and on the island was a small wooden hut. A ragged flag flew over it, and a couple of men could just be seen idling by the door. They seemed to be in uniform, and they were carrying guns.
What kept me and a score of Japanese tourists all gazing through the binoculars, pumping in coin after coin, was that the flag was the tricolor of the Russian republic and the men were soldiers of the Russian army. They were standing on an island that until the very last days of the war had been indisputably Japanese territory: They were so close you felt you could shout at them. Several Japanese tried to: Get out! they cried. Go home!
Recently, I happened to see the situation in reverse. I had been traveling on a rusty Russian icebreaker, going between Kamchatka and Vladivostok, and the captain, acting on a whim, decided to stop in the southern Kuriles, because he knew I was interested, and to underline his own passionate belief that these misty, slippery, windswept and foggy rocks were as Russian as the islands in St. Petersburg’s harbor. Thus I found myself on an island called Kunashir, taking tea with the very Russians whom the Japanese gaze down at, and whom they demand should leave.
Statesmen of the far away and the long ago were responsible for this bizarre situation. When Stalin met with Roosevelt and Churchill at Yalta in 1945, the Soviet leader promised that his army would join the war against the Japanese on the condition, among many, that the Kuriles be declared Soviet territory. The Westerners innocently agreed, caring little for the Japanese fishermen and farmers who were living on what the Japanese then called their Northern Territories. So once the war was over, they were all deported back to Japan, a handful of Russian soldiers and settlers promptly moved in and the problem has festered ever since, an irritation that has kept Japan and Russia from ever formally ending their own state of war.
And yet, seeing the islands at first hand, one has to wonder at the madness of it all. The four islands that the Russians occupy are lonely, wretched ruins, settled by disconsolate people, guarded by a demoralized rag bag of boy soldiers who all want to go home, away from the eternal fogs and the bone-chilling cold.
Their capital is a bleak shantytown called Yuzhno-Kurilsk, still only half recovered from having been swamped by a tidal wave six years ago. There was no wharf; the tender that brought me in from the icebreaker had to tie up against a sunk and sagging wreck, from where — after an hour’s scrutiny of my papers by a dozen border guards — I was allowed in, up a dusty street strewn with fish-bones and sick-looking dogs. The houses were in ruins, a few whey-faced inhabitants stood queuing for bread and beer. The only sign of modernity was a white Japanese fishing boat lying in the harbor, arrested for illegal netting in these aggressively patrolled Russian waters.
I spoke to some soldiers: They had had no pay for six months, no letters from their homes in Khabarovsk and Irkutsk; they had nothing to do other than be present, to do the bidding of politicians in a Moscow that was thousands of miles and eight time zones distant. It seemed lunacy, said one. Why don’t we just let the Japanese have the islands back? They are of no use to us. At least the Japanese would put some money in, spruce up the houses, make something of the place. His officer heard him talking and bade him shut up. No Japanese, he said. Never.
But this man took me in his old jeep to a headland at the south of his island. Across a narrow strait of blue and tide-ripped water, where great red buoys marked the international boundary, rose the cliffs of Hokkaido. I looked through the soldier’s binoculars. In the distance I spotted a gleaming Japanese car climbing a winding Japanese road, heading toward a collection of modern buildings that were topped by what seemed to be a viewing stand. That’s where I had been, many years before.
Up there maybe tourists were looking down at us, at this ragged Russian soldier, this unidentified civilian, perhaps wondering what we were talking about.
I can tell them: What is Japan really like? the soldier was asking me, over and again. They say it is much more advanced than Russia. I would so like to see for myself.
But then he spat. Until this situation changes, he said, I can never go, I can never find out. Until those fools in Moscow change their minds, he said, these binoculars will have to do.
Simon Winchester is a contributing editor for Salon Wanderlust. He has previously written about Hong Kong, the Kurile Islands and China. More Simon Winchester.
Newsreal: Turkish delight
Salon has learned of a U.S. arms-for-human-rights deal with Turkey that the Clinton administration thinks is important to preserve Turkey's stability but opponents say it's arming the torturers.
WASHINGTON – While Iraq has been receiving most of the Clinton administration’s attention in the past several weeks, a much quieter U.S. initiative could have similarly profound consequences for the region.
In a highly risky move, Salon has learned, the administration is offering a major arms-for-human-rights deal to one of its most important allies, Turkey.
In exchange for improvements in its dismal human rights record, Turkey would get to buy $3.5 billion worth of American attack helicopters as a reward. Turkey has tentatively agreed to the quid-pro-quo — which some human rights activists liken to rewarding a recovering drug addict with clean needles.
Continue Reading CloseJonathan Broder is Salon's Washington correspondent. More Jonathan Broder.
The Christlike and redemptive powers of ice hockey
Rinkside at the Czech-Russia match, Cintra Wilson suddenly understands the Christlike and redemptive powers of ice hockey.
It is one of the strangest things to be able to get up in the morning, get on a plane and 11 hours later be way on the other side of the world in a place so foreign and tweaky and opulently unusual it feels like walking through an endless maze of arcades. Long travel experiences always end up feeling like Madeline L’Engle’s “Wrinkle in Time” to me; I can’t help thinking about that young adult novel, wherein a “tesseract” was a way of traveling by bending space and time — a kind of quantum physics solution to the angst of young adolescents. In any case, it does feel like some sci-fi time manipulation, because your internal watch gets botched up and your inner animal is stoned for days on disorientation, in rotating bouts of giddy euphoria and exhaustive, narcoleptic collapse, and your body feels wrought out of twisted balloons. You become a sloppily drawn character in a surreal landscape, and nothing really makes any linear sense, and you just do your best to remain upright and prevent your luggage from exploding and get on the right trains.
Continue Reading CloseCintra Wilson is a culture critic and author whose books include "A Massive Swelling: Celebrity Re-Examined as a Grotesque, Crippling Disease" and "Caligula for President: Better American Living Through Tyranny." Her new book, "Fear and Clothing: Unbuckling America's Fashion Destiny," will be published by WW Norton. More Cintra Wilson.
Newsreal: The odd couple
The pope's upcoming visit to Cuba and meeting with Fidel Castro is being depicted as a sort of ideological shootout: believer vs. atheist, Catholic vs. Communist, Old World vs. New. But the reality is much more complex.
Pope John Paul II is coming to Cuba. The pope who helped liberate the Soviet empire is the guest of the world’s last Marxist hero. An unlikely pair, yes. And why not?
Americans, especially non-Catholic Americans, tend to admire this pope. A former Time magazine “Man of the Year,” he seems exceptional among world leaders — a man of fierce moral principle who speaks his mind. Americans, too, see him as the anti-communist pope, the Polish freedom fighter who provided critical support for the Solidarity trade union movement that overthrew the communist regime there.
Continue Reading CloseRichard Rodriguez is the author of "Brown: The Last Discovery of America." More Richard Rodriguez.
From Russia with (forbidden) love
Several new collections celebrate the contributions of the late Russian pianist Sviatoslav Richter.
Hardly a month went by last year without another major release of
recordings by the Russian pianist Sviatoslav Richter, who died in 1997 at age 82. He was recently honored as part of Philips’ “Great Pianists of the 20th Century” series, as well as by new releases of several live recordings, including “Richter in Leipzig, the November 28, 1963 recital” (Music and Arts/Koch), “Richter in Helsinki 25 August 1976″ (Music and Arts) and his “Last Concert,” of three Mozart concertos from Japan, accompanied by the Japan Shinsei Orchestra led by Rudolf Barshai (Laurel Records).
Benjamin Ivry is a biographer of Poulenc (Phaidon) and Rimbaud (Absolute Press/Stewart Tabori and Chang) and the author of a poetry collection, "Paradise for the Portuguese Queen" (Orchises Press). His new biography of Ravel is due out next year. More Benjamin Ivry.
21st: E.D., phone home!
Scott Rosenberg interviews Esther Dyson on Microsoft, intellectual property, the future of Russia -- and why she banished her telephone.
Esther Dyson — conference impresario, Net pundit and high-tech emissary to Russia — arrives in a flurry at the Salon office for an early-morning interview. She needs to receive a fax from London — what’s our number? Her laptop needs recharging; is there an outlet nearby? Then she props herself up on a chair, crosses her legs beneath her and fixes an intent stare on her interviewer as she talks about the predictions and conclusions in her new book, “Release 2.0: A Design for Living in the Digital Age.”
Continue Reading CloseSalon co-founder Scott Rosenberg is director of MediaBugs.org. He is the author of "Say Everything" and Dreaming in Code and blogs at Wordyard.com. More Scott Rosenberg.
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