Sex

Ibiza: A Navel Voyage

If there was ever a place where a man may be tempted to bite an unknown woman's navel, that place is Ibiza in August.

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summer in Ibiza was fine until my friend Christopher, drunk on too
much tequila and Pescador wine — an intoxicatingly sweet and fizzy Sprite-like white wine — bit Isabella Estrapulos,
the granddaughter of the most powerful man on the island,
on the navel. I didn’t witness the act; I had stayed
home that night. It all started innocently enough when Chris and my girlfriend, Silka, drove to the center of
Ibiza’s old city to rendezvous with a few of our friends at Banana’s, a
popular joint overlooking the harbor. Chris began slamming tequila shots
and ogling the women promenading along the boardwalk. Then came the incident
that could be either dismissed as youthful indiscretion or prosecuted as
sexual harassment.

When Silka and Chris returned from their evening excursion only an hour and a half later, two sides had
already formed. On one side was everyone we knew; they were angry, insulted
and repulsed by Chris’ misconduct. On the other side was Chris.
“He bit Isabella,” said Veronique, a Dutch woman who had been living on
Ibiza for several years, “on the stomach.”

As those who witnessed the incident, or claimed to, recounted it, the
legend grew. By 1 a.m., when everyone headed off for a full moon party in
San Josep, Chris — who had long since passed out — had emerged as a kind of
Grendel on Vacation, terrorizing the city and gorging himself on tequila
and bellybuttons.


If there was ever a place where a man may be tempted to bite an unknown
woman’s navel, that place is Ibiza in August. Ibiza is the third largest
of the Balearics, a group of four Mediterranean islands so small that on
most maps, only Majorca, the largest and most famous of the islands, merits a
touch of green topographical coloring. Ibiza is usually only a
speck, with its name flying from it like a pennant. While Ibiza exudes an atmosphere conducive to outlandish behavioral outbursts, it is Majorca that remains the most renowned Balearic, with Michael Douglas, Princess Stephanie of
Monaco, Alain Delon and Michael Caine all making regular cameos. Majorca is also the most heavily touristed, with more than 5 million visitors each year.

Ibiza is Majorca’s funky cousin — the island has a little bit of that
East Hampton-in-the-’50s flavor, when rising art world figures such as
Leo Castelli, Willem de Kooning and Jackson Pollock lived or spent summers
on the island, and there was still good property for less than six digits.
Spanish aristocrats discovered the natural splendor of
Ibiza in the 1930s. Back then, the summer tradition among the best Spanish families was to take a two-month Balearic sojourn: a
month in Majorca for socializing and a month in Ibiza for recreation. But
it was the European artiste crowd that made Ibiza the multicultured,
multi-classed resort it is today. Dutch painter Jan Kramer, Polish director
Roman Polanski and the rock group Pink Floyd were among the first to give
Ibiza its boho reputation, and their legacy of soporific days and salacious
nights is still going strong.

Silka pointed out that Chris may have been overwhelmed by
that atmosphere, rendered momentarily senseless by the exposed midriffs
and microscopic minis displayed along Ibiza’s waterfront, by the tanned,
muscled, studly goddesses and gods who walked the walk. Ibiza at night is
Sodom and Gomorrah, costumed by Frederick’s of Hollywood and shot by
Steven Meisel. And Chris was a guy from New Jersey looking for a good time.
You do the math.

until the navel incident, I had a good thing going on Ibiza. Silka’s
family owned a house in Roc Lima, a development between Santa Eularia and
Ibiza City. Everyone’s first reaction on walking into the house and taking
in the three-side wraparound ocean view was to breathe deep and sigh.

I suspect I was violating some rule of etiquette by having Chris come
over to Ibiza — he was piggybacking on hospitality that had been extended
to me. Though Silka agreed to his coming, clearly she did so as a favor to
me.

“He must apologize,” Silka judiciously decided, “and not just to
Isabella, but to everyone.”

“How?” I asked. “On Radio Ibiza?”

She wasn’t in the mood for jokes. “To our friends, to Isabella, to
everyone who was there last night. And not just for his sake, but for
yours as well. Remember, you brought him here. It’s your reputation.”

She was right. For four years, we had been spending our summers on Ibiza. I had
dreams of buying property there, maybe settling down. Before coming to Ibiza with
Silka in 1991, I had been to some of the best resorts in the world: Koh
Samui (before it was ruined), Goa, Mykonos. But Ibiza was somehow different.
Not just the women, and the liquor, and the rich people, and all that — that was part
of it — but what I had seen in Ibiza was a softer, more refined world than any to which I had ever been privy. Silka knew everybody and had turned me on
to the fastest crowd and the hottest scenes. At Pacha, the hippest
nightclub in Ibiza, we got free drinks. At Divino, a French restaurant
affiliated with Paris’ notorious Bain Douche, we were seated at the best
tables on the night of the festival de la virgen de las nieves
(the virgin of the snows), when fireworks were launched over Ibiza’s old
fort and the yellow battlements glowed green, red and blue. At the
renovated finoas (farmhouses that had been converted to luxury
summer homes) of wealthy Germans and French, we were treated to good
meals and given access to cellars of fine wine.

Ibiza was paradise, the first place on earth where I felt like I knew
the right people and had access to the sanctums of the elite and privileged — the nightclubs, yachts,
dinner parties.

It was also beautiful — that’s the part you can’t get over. The natural
splendor of the beautiful beaches and terraced olive groves, the winding
cobblestone streets and the sleepy, sun-burnt hamlets built around white-washed
stucco churches. After years in Los Angeles, New York and Tokyo, I was a
sucker for old world aesthetics. Forget the Epcot Center, this was the real
thing. There were Ibicencan beaches where I had been swimming — in the
nude, like everyone else on the island — that surpassed anything I had ever
seen, even in National Geographic or those airplane magazines. Banearas: a
wide, sandy shore between verdant, gentle hills. Cap Falcon: a rocky cove surrounded by precipitous cliffs. El Diablo: a shallow inlet
wrapped around a giant, dagger-shaped boulder. Beaches, coves and inlets so
exquisite that in the middle of my daily half-mile swim, I
would sometimes stop, float, and just gaze up at the cliffs or the craggy
rocks or the sandy peninsulas, because this was paradise, this place, this
time, this instant. Nothing compared. I could not allow Chris’ misconduct
to jeopardize this lifestyle, nor my relationship with Silka that made this
lifestyle possible.

“Tomorrow,” I told Silka before going to bed, “we will make amends.”

But by the morning, Chris was gone. He had woken up with the sun and
hitched a ride into town. A promise was a promise: I had to find him, search
for Isabella, and then have him apologize. My relationship would be safe. My summer would proceed as planned.


I had introduced Chris to my custom of spending summer mornings — or
early afternoons, or however one refers to that time between sleep and
siesta — in the marble lobby of the six-story Montesol hotel and its adjoining cafe. At its best, this
first-class, wedding-cake hotel evoked the luxury, decadence and opulence of pre-Castro
Cuba, and at its worst, reminded one of the inefficiency, rudeness and
corruption of, say, pre-Castro Cuba. The service around the Montesol bar
was the second worst in Ibiza — only at the Montesol’s own sidewalk tables
could a customer feel more neglected. But the bow-tied, heat-stroked
waiters could afford to be surly because they were backed by the cachet of
their establishment; for the Montesol was the epicenter of Ibicencan daily
life.

The majority of the belly-up crowd who stood by the Montesol’s oak
bar that morning were elderly Spanish men. They gossiped, smoked Fortuna
cigarettes or Cojiba cigars and downed more coffee than a Bogota Narcotics
Anonymous meeting.

The bar was where the local players wheeled and dealed. Sooner or
later, everyone on the island, from Polanski to Princess Fergie, turned
up. And consequently on this morning, so did Chris.
“I remember drinking at that bar,” Chris said and then shook his
head when I recounted more details about the navel incident. “And that’s it.”

“You bit
someone,” I told him. “Someone important.”

“Did I draw blood?”

“No.”
“Then what’s the big deal?”

A waiter deposited a cafe con jello in front of me.

“The
people you were with, those were my friends, but more importantly, they were
Silka’s friends. You have to apologize.”

“To the girl?”

“Yes, to her,
to her family, before everyone thinks we’re assholes.”


Since Chris had
bitten the powerful Don Manuel Estrapulos’ granddaughter, we were off to his gentlemen’s club to offer our apologies.

There’s a small, greenish bronze plaque in front of
the four-story, white stone building that reads Sociedad Cultural Y
Recreational Ebusus
(the old Phoenician spelling of Ibiza). The
Sociedad,
located half a block down Ibiza’s main drag from Montesol, was
the island’s oldest and most prestigious men’s club. In high season, these
clubs serve as a velvet sanctuary, shielding members from the tourist
onslaught. There are numerous sitting rooms filled with plush green and red
velvet armchairs and long 19th century coffee and end tables. The vast
majority of paintings lining the dusty brown walls are second-rate copies
of famous portraits of Ferdinand, Isabella, the Duke of Alba, Genoan Prince
Emmanuelle, obese Pope John IV, a forgotten archbishop, some minor
inquisitor
and, yes, Francisco Franco. But a keen eye can spy, scattered among the
tedious rows of copy-cat art, a few genuine masterpieces: two original
Velázquez etchings and even a small Goya.

The club has a movie theater, a library filled with Franco-era texts,
a full bar and a functioning restaurant. But the club’s only room that is
in constant use is the gaming room.

There, members of the Estrapulos clan, owners of Banco Estrapulos — a
one-time currency exchange operation that has expanded to become one of the
largest private banks in Spain — and the guardians of Isabella Estrapulos’
dignity, gather to play tute or brisque, card games similar
to trumps and whist but requiring a 36-card baraja deck that has swords and trees as suits instead of spades and clubs.

Today, if you need a liquor license in Ibiza — an Estrapulos has to
approve it. If you want to open a nightclub — Don Manuel has to have a
piece.

He sat in a corner, reading El Pais and drinking red wine.
Several younger men, lesser members of the Estrapulos clan, sat around the
patriarch. They chewed cigars and looked like they were wanting to be told
what to do. Periodically, a waiter would carry over a phone and plug it
into the jack next to Don Manuel’s table so he could make or take a
call.

“Let’s just apologize and get this over with,” Chris suggested.
“I’ll say sorry, and you use your Spanish.”

“Pardon us, sir, for a little
moment,” I said in the best Spanish I could muster. “But my friend has to
your daughter’s daughter, made a –” I didn’t know how to go on.

I
touched my midsection.

Don Manuel studied Chris and then pounded the
table. “She has been impregnated?”

“NO!” I almost shouted. “No. With
teeth. It was achieved with teeth. I deliver many apologies and regrets, to your
person, and the person of your daughter’s daughter –”

“Of what is he
talking?” asked one of Don Manuel’s cronies.

Don Manuel shook his head. “Of that, I have no knowledge.”


Driving back to the house, we were blinded by the dazzling
Mediterranean sun and choked by the dry, suffocating heat. It was a kind of
heat I had never experienced in Los Angeles, surpassing even a hot San
Fernando Valley afternoon. This was African heat; Saharan in intensity.

We drove along narrow, curved roads and over steep hills — hills like
beige hippopotamuses — where cars passed each other recklessly. This was despite the
roadside evidence that passing blind could be fatal: I counted seven
stripped car hulks along the potholed way. The flora resembled that of
California’s coastline. There were even black scars in the hills where brush
fires had burned the chaparral.

Silka had left a note tacked to the front
door: “Went to San Carlos.” I dropped Chris off and took off after
her.


The San Carlos Hippy Market is a bazaar sprawled over the expansive Las Dalias paella restaurant and two adjacent lots. The dusty blue, red and
orange caravan tents, blaring Pink Floyd and a pungent incense odor, suggest a
black market where anything, illicit or otherwise, can be had: gold
dubloons, bricks of hashish or AK-47s. Actually in the offing at this flea
market are boutique goods and local bric-a-brac in an exotic setting. In
between hanging plants and racks of tie-dyed clothing, German and Dutch
tourists fingered overpriced silver earrings and little twisty-bags of
cinnamon, or posed while local artists sketched their caricatures in charcoal. Silka, wearing
wraparound Persol shades that gave her a Schwarzenegger-like stolidity,
had stopped at a store selling leather goods. She was trying on a vest.

“We apologized,” I told her.

“Did he apologize to Isabella?”

“Uh — no, not actually her.” I touched a red leather jacket.

A Spanish
version of Procol Harem’s “A Lighter Shade of Pale” was playing: Tropizei las luzes fandango. Silka strolled to the next stall. “Then
everything’s not yet OK.” I bought some puka shells.


Ibiza is the only place in the world where the sun doesn’t set. Instead,
at around 8:30 every summer night, the sun explodes. Just as it
touches the horizon, our nearest star detonates, dispersing a gaudy pink and
orange blast that whips through the sky, covering the island with a flamingo-colored roof. There have been times, as I wound my way into town
along narrow ribbons of road between olive groves, that I’ve pulled onto the
shoulder to stare at the sky. The explosion of the sun, in most places, would signal
the end of the world. But here, it means the beginning of the night.

Chris and I were on our own, on a crawl through the bars of Dalt Villa.
The main city of Ibiza is terraced around Dalt Villa, a gigantic fortress
built to repel the corsairs (and, I’m convinced, the sort of people on package vacations who flock to Majorca). The massive, dusty granite and mortar
citadel rises from the Pasea de Vara de Rey, the tree-lined avenue marking
the center of Ibiza’s old city. Like so many of the world’s great monuments, this castle — haunting like Mont St. Michel and imposing like
Alcatraz — is an
eloquent architectural justification for lavish defense budgets. If it
weren’t for the constant fear of invasion, Ibiza’s masters, from Phoenician
to Roman to Gaelic to Vandal to Moorish to Sardinian to Hapsburg and
finally to Spanish, would not have invested in the stunning network
of battlements, keeps, parapets and towers that dominate Ibiza’s skyline.

We stumbled into The Rock, the last bastion of cheap drinks before water’s edge, where you can gaze out at the reflection of boats in the harbor. The white, yellow and red running lights usually cast a positive glow on my petty problems.

But that night it didn’t work.

We continued our desultory pilgrimage of contrition. I was miserable:
Ibiza was no fun without my girlfriend.

Finally we dropped into Amnesia, a hard-core techno club off the road to
San Antonio, where the dance floor shook with heavy bass and everyone in
the club seemed to be tripping. Amnesia is famous for Espuma, the foam
parties. Three nights a week, a giant chrome cannon — like a 19th century
naval artillery piece — shoots out a steady stream of white bubble foam that
is actually a carbon dioxide-based flame-retardant, similar to a home fire extinguisher. The foam, in mounds six feet high,
envelops the dance floor for hours. (I have seen two girls pulled from
the foam, momentarily asphyxiated.)

The crowd, as the cannon began firing ejaculatory streams of foam,
started whooping, chanting, reveling. Boys went shirtless. Girls went
topless. The disc jockey kept shouting, “Spuma, spuma, spuma!” Viewing the
white bubble-coated arms, legs, torsos, breasts, faces and hair swirling
around the dance floor, I felt I was watching a washing machine, with the dial set
on “mosh.” But the crowd of Italians, Germans, French, Dutch and Spanish
loved it.

Then we saw, coming through the foam — or did the foam actually part? –
a navel, with a gold hoop dangling from a gentle mound of stomach above the seam of
white jeans. This was the navel of Chris’ desire. Isabella was here. Walking fast. Toward us.


I drove home alone, content, for all was well with the universe again.
Amends had been made, contrition offered, absolution was now mine. At home
was my girlfriend, and I would be back in favor, and the finest days of
summer were ahead of me.

Chris had apologized to Isabella. Then she bit him on the stomach.

They were together for the rest of the summer.

Karl Taro Greenfeld is a Knight-Bagehot Fellow at Columbia University. He is the author of "Speed Tribes" and a contributor to Vogue, Details, the New York Times Magazine, Wired and other publications. He has written for Wanderlust on Ibiza and exploring northern Thailand by foot.

“Kama Sutra”

"Kama Sutra" is bogus history and cheesy storytelling, but what the hell, it's sexy.

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Historical and exotic settings have always been a godsend to makers of soft-core erotica, especially when they want to appeal to audiences made squeamish by the slightest suggestion of sleaze. The same old inane plots, lavishly displayed flesh and coyly shot sex scenes that would offend the sensibilities of art house audiences if they were set in Sherman Oaks are touted as sensual, passionate and adult when the characters are, say, bohemian writers in 1920s Paris and wear lots and lots of scarves.

The difference, then, between Playboy Channel trash and highbrow Saturday night date film is really just a matter of outfits and locations. Mira Nair’s “Kama Sutra” succeeds ever so handsomely in both departments. The story is cheesy, the history dubious, the connection to India’s tradition of tantric meditation tenuous and the championing of “female sexuality” spurious — but, what the hell, it’s still pretty sexy.

The story concerns the schoolgirl rivalry between Tara, a princess, and a serving wench named Maya in 16th century India. Tara may be the pretty one, but Maya’s sultry ways tend to capture male attention. Maya, angry at having to make do with Tara’s hand-me-downs all her life, seduces her friend’s bridegroom the night before the wedding. Cast out of the palace afterwards, Maya takes up with a studly, long-haired sculptor and learns Kama Sutra techniques from a retired courtesan. When the sculptor goes all angsty and distant on her because he thinks a relationship will hinder his art, Maya consents to become head courtesan for the king who married Tara. Despite his dissolution and burgeoning opium problem, the king has never forgotten his night with Maya, and soon poor Tara feels like the odd girl out.

“Kama Sutra” looks gorgeous, from the obligatory scarves (in dozens of saturated colors) to the posh, cushion-lined interiors, to the graceful, statuesque women and their dashing menfolk. The hairstyles alone are worth paying seven bucks to see. Yes, it’s full of dumb lines like “There she is, my lotus woman!” and “You don’t know this, but you inspire all of my work,” but at least Indira Varma, as Maya, really does seem possessed of a mysterious, vixenish allure that transcends her otherwise ordinary good looks. And the midriff-baring beaded number she wears in one scene practically deserves a screen credit all its own.

“Kama Sutra” has nothing to do with the complex, codified Indian society of the actual historical period, just as any claims Nair makes to addressing the spiritual aspects of the real Kama Sutra are pure malarkey. This movie is your basic harem fantasy, easy on the explicit sex and dominance/submission dynamics, but lavish on the gauze, ambient sapphism and romance. There’s even a bare-chested wrestling scene between the king and Maya’s Fabio-esque sculptor beau — a bonus for the ladies, I guess. It’s only the jarring ending that strikes a gloomy, real-world note.

To assume that India’s history of erotic art and literature emerged from a society entirely comfortable with sex is a bit like looking at all the naked people in Western painting and deciding that we must be completely at ease with nudity. In fact, contemporary Indian cinema prohibits the depiction of the most modest sexual contact, even kissing, although rape is a commonplace narrative device. “Kama Sutra” itself has been bogged down in the certification process imposed by the Indian government’s censors for months and Nair had to go to court to get the film released in her homeland.

None of this affects the goofy, Never-Neverland appeal of the film itself, but it does undermine the liberal American tendency to imagine every other culture — the more exotic, the better — as less sexually repressed than our own. That’s as flagrant a fantasy as Nair’s blithe vision of seductive houris and handsome princes.

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Laura Miller

Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com.

What Women Think About But Never Talk About

Courtney Weaver and her female friends discuss taboo sex subjects.

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the talk with my mother, or rather the non-talk, pricked at me during my stay in London. It got me thinking: What do women not talk
about with each other? My English girlfriends were all a very open lot,
much more so than their American counterparts. I would put the question to
them.

The fact that I write about sex for a living amused them to
death. It was all “so American” — it showed how uptight we Yanks really
are. And this wacky thing called the Internet didn’t interest them in the
least.

One night in London, as a group of my male and female friends sat in
a fashionable bar near the West End drinking gin and tonics, I was suddenly
struck by the strangeness of my girlfriends. They seemed like a different
species: giant exotic birds, glossy, dressed in black, with graceful
fingers and fashionably clunky shoes. So much more overt than the men, less
conservative, and so much more sexual. Sallie with her bare shoulders, in
her bias-cut dress, Mary in her clinging Ozbek turtleneck, the way they
threw back their heads and laughed, the slight parting of their lips when
they listened. They asked me what I’d been writing about lately, and when I
replied “penis size,” they nodded knowingly as if I’d said “tax reform.”
The men, on the other hand, were a bit prickly.

“I would like to know,” Mark interrupted in his most perfect BBC accent,
“why people talk about penis size. The question shouldn’t be how big or how
small the man is. The question is, how small is the woman?”

“Shut up, Mark,” Sallie said languidly. “Anyone who talks about anchovies
and women is a misogynist. You’re just digging yourself deeper.”

“Actually, women have surgery all the time to make their vaginas tighter,”
Mary put in. “They just don’t talk about it. It’s one of those things that
women don’t talk about with each other.”

“This is news to me,” I said. Mary was a copy editor for a women’s health
magazine, and she said this with some authority. “What other things do
women not talk about with each other?”

“That’s true about the surgery,” Sallie interjected. “After childbirth, or just to
be smaller. It’s a very simple operation, it takes no time at all
apparently.” She and Mary nodded as the men drifted into rugby talk. “I
don’t know why women don’t talk about it. I haven’t had it done. Have you?”
she asked, turning to Mary.

“No. I know someone who did. It’s really not a big issue.”

“Whatever happened to Kegel exercises?” I asked.

“Spoken like a true Yank. Why do a load of exercises when you can just have
a simple procedure?” Mary asked.

“Women don’t talk about masturbation in the States,” I said. “There still
seems to be some sort of shame attached to it. But I asked an English
friend of mine about it recently, and she was quite upfront once the
question was put to her. She said when she’s anxious, she masturbates about
four times a day. She works at home, you see.”

“Why would there be shame attached to masturbation?” Sallie seemed
genuinely surprised. “John bought me a
vibrator. I use it all the time.”

“My friend also said,” I continued, warming up to the subject, “that she hadn’t
yet had a boyfriend who didn’t connect her frequent masturbation to her
feeling like she wasn’t getting enough sex in the relationship. In fact,
she said, the two had nothing to do with each other. It was just a tension
easer.”

“Women don’t talk about Bartholin gland cysts either,” observed Mary. “Although
something like 70 percent of all women get them at one time or another. My
gynecologist told me that.”

“We also don’t talk about multiple orgasms,” declared Sallie. “I’m not sure
why that is. I would like to know, actually, how my girlfriends count their
multiple orgasms. For instance, does anyone have one right after another?
Or is it within the space of five minutes? Or 10? And if so, does that
count as a multiple orgasm?”

“Another drink?” the waiter asked.

“Yes,” we all cried.

“But we all know you lot talk about our penises,” Mark interrupted. “That’s
something I think you should stop talking about. It’s very private.”

“Particularly if you’re as tiny as Mark,” Mary said, as Mark turned back to
sports talk. She finished the last of her drink and crunched some ice.
“Maybe we Brit girls need to get on the Internet. We need to find out from
the Americans what it is that we all don’t talk about. I will start by
saying that I have one orgasm per sexual session. That’s it.”

“Let’s have a round robin,” Sallie said eagerly. “Let’s all talk about one thing that we’ve never talked about
with girlfriends. I’ll start: I lust after a woman at my office. Now you,”
she said to me.

“I can’t top that,” I said. “You know my life is an open book. Let me get
back to you on this.”

Sallie and Mary groaned. “You can take the Yank out of the country,” they
said in unison.

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Up close and too personal

How much do you really want to know about your mom's sex life, anyway?

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so what have you been writing about lately?” my mother asked me. We were flying to London on what must have been the most crowded flight in United Airlines history. Luggage poked out from every seat, babies screamed, flight attendants stepped over the sprawled legs of passengers. My mother was adjusting the ear piece of her headset, trying the volume and channels, when she had turned to me quizzically.

“Well,” I stalled, and thought for a moment. I’d just written about penis size, the mystery of masturbation and vibrators, though not necessarily in that order. My mother wasn’t on the Internet, never read Unzipped, and I liked it that way. Occasionally she’d make noises about getting a computer, or would ask half-heartedly if I couldn’t just print a few things out for her. But somehow these things never came to pass.

My mother is no prude. We began talking about sex long ago, spurred in part, I think, by our mutual desire not to imitate the Irish Catholic, repressed relationship she had with her mother. She accommodated my pre-adolescent questions with a great show of openness, talking to me about menstruation, breast size and intercourse in a matter-of-fact tone as she put on her make-up or brushed her hair. She herself had been divorced for many years now, and growing up I’d seen a few boyfriends come and go, tiptoeing out of the house in the pre-dawn hours, looking pale and guilty in their black dress socks and rumpled, untucked shirts.

If anything, it was me that was the prude when it came to sex talk with my mother. Yes, we were honest, but we were not blunt. Skirting around the periphery was fine with me — yes, she knew I slept with men and a good number of them by the time I was 30, but she did not need to know more than that. Details were not asked for, nor were they provided. I wasn’t even certain if she knew exactly what Unzipped was about, although I had overheard her once at a cocktail party say something about her daughter, “who wrote some kind of urban life sex thing.”

“Well?” she asked, frowning when the titles of “The Mirror Has Two Faces” flashed on the credit card-sized movie screen.

“I’ve been writing about the importance of penis size, Mom,” I said. Honest but not blunt. But I felt myself squirm in my seat and go a little hot in the face. “Or, non-importance, as the case may be. So, do you think Lauren Bacall deserves an Oscar this year?”

“Penis size IS important,” my mother said. She was still fiddling around with her dials. “Don’t you think it is? Any woman that says that it isn’t is lying,” she continued, and not particularly quietly either.

“Mom, could you keep your voice down?”

“Why? Does it embarrass you?”

“Ssshh. For God’s sake, at least take off your headphones,” I hissed. “No, of course it doesn’t. You and I can talk about anything. How is tax time going to be for you this year, by the way?”

“In fact, I think penis size is VERY important. I think it directly affects the way a man treats a woman, how big or small he is. You and I have never talked about this, have we?”

“No,” I said, shifting around. A man burping a baby glared at me. “Maybe there’s a good reason for that.”

“Men my age are completely hung up on their penises,” she said, taking a careful sip of her Diet Coke. “Then again, so are the women!” She giggled suddenly, and said, “Have I ever told you about going to that nude beach with your father …”

“OK, Mom, that’s it.” I sat up. “This discussion is over. I refuse to hear that ‘p’ word and my father in the same sentence.” I plugged my headphones in, determined to catch up on “The Mirror Has Two Faces.” From what I could tell, Lauren Bacall and Barbra Streisand seemed to be having the same type of conversation we were.

“Well!” my mother said. She pretended to be a little huffy but I could see she was highly amused. “When did you become such a nervous Nellie? I was only going to say in the ’70s, we used to always go to the nude beaches and look at all the different sizes. There really is an amazing range.” She opened a magazine and began flipping through it.

A week later, we were sitting with a group of 10 of my friends at the Avenue, a bustling, modern restaurant in central London. After the first five bottles of wine, my English friends were delighted with my mother; by the 10th she was officially declared “one of the mates.” She was open, she was honest, she was witty. They all wished they had mothers like Peggy.

In the middle of my Caesar’s salad I leaned across the table to my friend Mark, who was sitting to her left. “Here, Mark,” I said holding out an anchovy fillet. “Do you like anchovies?”

“Good Lord no!” he exclaimed. “Get that away from me. I had a bad oral sex experience once, you see,” he explained to my mother. “The woman was positively like a salt trough. I haven’t been able to eat anchovies since. Disgusting.” He began talking loudly across the table about the upcoming elections.

I looked at Mom. She was crimson from neck to hairline. I patted her hand and said, “Don’t worry. It’ll never come up again.”

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Sizing it Up

Is bigger better? Inching towards consensus on the ever-traumatic subject of male endowment.

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“you do know that you’re uh, kind of well-endowed, don’t you?” a boyfriend asked me a few years ago.

I looked down. His muffled observation, which emanated from the nether regions of my body, was not about my chest (which would have been a bald-faced lie and downright laughable). He looked up to see if I’d heard.

“I didn’t know that,” I said. “I suppose that’s kind of interesting.”

“Aren’t you proud?”

“It hasn’t really been keeping me up nights,” I told him. Then I realized that in his mind he was paying me a real compliment.

Freud was all wrong about penis envy. In Psychology 101 you will hear female titters around the room when it is stated categorically that all women yearn for a dick, and (in the male mind) a really big one at that. Did it give me a warm glow to know I had a big clit? Did it fill me with silent power to walk in a room full of women and say to myself, “Yeah, baby, the Johnny Depp look-alike may be hanging on your arm, but I got something bigger and better between my legs than you’ll ever have?” What do you think?

But it got me thinking about this whole issue of penis size, this locus of male anxiety. We all know how much penis size matters to men, but how much does it really matter to women?

Speaking for all women, let me say: Yes, women do talk about their partner’s size — the more open of us, anyway — and yes, bigger is better. You will never hear a woman say, for example, that she prefers a really, really tiny penis, as shapely or as aesthetically pleasing as it may be.

Before all of you less-endowed folks jump off the nearest bridge, however, let me make it clear that size is simply not that important to most women. Oh, sure, we girls always remember the better-hung of our past boyfriends, and certainly they’ve provided more than a few masturbatory fantasies for me personally. Big cocks just simply feel better to us. In certain positions, namely the good ol’ missionary, a big dick will pull on the inner lips of the pussy and indirectly rub the clit. It’s not rocket science.

But like all sexual issues, this one is not without its complexities and corollaries. How big is too big, for example? The same boyfriend who’d made the complimentary (he thought) comment about my clitoris was himself extremely well-endowed. And sex wasn’t all that fun with him. He’d learned early on that he didn’t need to concentrate on the more subtle aspects of sex; he wasn’t very sensual in his foreplay or very imaginative in the speed or position of his thrusts.

Moreover, for me it was one urinary tract infection after another. He had a proclivity toward doggie-style, which I normally enjoy, but with him it felt like a thudding assault on my cervix, a ramming attack against the bolted fort. (Looking back, his preference for that position makes sense: He was a self-absorbed egotist who I think really got off watching his own dick.) I like to think Mr. Big was an anomaly, that huge dick and cavalier jerk don’t have any correlation to each other, but I’m starting to wonder after hearing many of these sorts of stories from women.

Then I think about my friend Michael, who was the most erotic and passionate man I’d ever slept with, who was attuned in a way Mr. Big never was. Michael is certainly average size, and has more than a few anxieties about this, but his size simply never really mattered that much to me. For one thing, we were incredibly in love. For another, he made up for any deficiencies (in his own mind) by being extremely proficient in other areas, like cunnilingus. And yes, women talk about this stuff probably more than dick size. A man who becomes known for his skill in this department will never suffer from a lack of willing partners.

Around the time of Julian, Michael and I had been wandering around the grocery store when he asked, oh-so-casually, “So, what about his … you know?”

“His DICK?” I said loudly, picking up a cucumber. “Wonderful! Couldn’t be better. Should we have a salad tonight?” Seeing Michael’s knit brow, I became serious. “It’s OK. Not that big of a deal.”

“Girth?”

“Good. He has good girth. That’s one thing he’s got going for him, because certainly nothing else is.” The irony, of course, is that if Julian were simply a filler, an offal relationship, his size would matter a great deal to me. And if I was in love, it would mean jack shit. As it was, he was in that limbo area, and here I was focusing on girth and how we weren’t very compatible.

So, can you make generalizations about this stuff? Sure, but in the end, like everything else, it’s only one (big? small?) part of a package deal.

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Sex Education in the Bedroom

Its 11 o'clock. Does he know where your clitoris is?

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Someday, I would like to take all the sexually active men in the world and cram them into a classroom. Then, my hair securely tied back in a bun and wearing a pair of black plastic-rimmed glasses, I would pull down charts, project slides, analyze charts and show films about the anatomy of female genitalia.

Somewhere along the winding road of male sex education, this subject appears to have been, well, ignored.

Like many of my girlfriends, I have long labored under the misapprehension that all men know about the clitoris. After all, I know about the penis, right? I was taught all about its shape, its physiology, its hidden ducts and channels in my seventh-grade sex education class in an all-girls school. But now that I think about it, I realize that the subject of the clitoris was blipped right over. We all suspected that the little hooded form was significant; at that point, we’d just made our own early inroads into the world of masturbation. Some of us had figured out that if you lay on your back in a bathtub and let the water splash over just the right spot of your prepubescent mound, a strange sensation rocketed through you, making you tremble and feel guilty.

Later, we looked at our parents’ books: “The Joy of Sex,” “How to Make Love to a Woman” and even the Japanese coffee-table tome, “Erotic Art.” Seventies couples were pictured in the prototypical line drawings, men busily attending to that little rosy button between the legs of their women folk, who were seemingly paralyzed, backs arched, in the throes of what looked like pain. By the time our mid-teenage years had kicked in, we girls knew the clitoris was the gateway to our pleasure. We naively assumed the boys would make it their business to find out too.

My friend Isobel has been going out with Jack now for about a year. She is by all accounts in love. They mesh in all the right ways, she says, from their mutual love of “Law & Order” to their decision not to have children to their enjoyment of Alice Waters’ cuisine. And yet, and yet. Isobel has never had an orgasm with Jack, which astounds me, but seems to only mildly bother her (which astounds me further). “Sometimes it feels like I might,” she said to me. “When he’s on top of me, and he’s lasting longer than usual, and he’s moving in the just the right way, when our rhythm is in sync. But then … I don’t.”

“Have you tried …” I cleared my throat, “well, talking about this?”

Isobel looked distracted. “I would,” she said, “but at this point it’s kind of too late. You know? I should have said something a long time ago. I don’t think he knows anything about the clitoris, I don’t think he knows that I can’t get off unless he pays attention to it. I’m not sure he would know what I was talking about.”

“What if you showed him?”

“It’s not as if he hasn’t ever touched me there. It’s just that when he does, it’s not the right way. He doesn’t have any delicacy about it, he kind of fumbles around, and it ends up hurting more than feeling good. Then afterwards, when we’re done and he gets up to go to the bathroom, I touch myself. I can come really fast on my own.” Seeing my startled expression, Isobel said hurriedly, “It’s not as if I don’t enjoy having sex with Jack, because I do. We share other great things that make up for it.”

I would like to think that Isobel is an anomaly, that most men are more knowledgeable about the female anatomy than Jack. I mean, could it really be that as we approach the millennium that men are clueless when it comes to the function of the clitoris? Or that they don’t know about this little issue called the clitoral foreskin, which when rubbed the wrong way can result in a jangled, stabbing little pain, as nerve ends are exposed? Of course it’s possible: Who’s going to tell them about all this if it not us girls?

Once upon a time, in our sex education class so many moons ago, a new teacher, bless her heart, told us to go home, get a mirror and sit down to look at our vulvas. Figure out where everything is, she told us: the vagina, the labia, the urinary tract, the anus, the clitoris. We were all horribly embarrassed and giggled madly. But now, I like to think I know the reason she gave us that advice. She knew that someday we, too, would have to be sex educators — only not in the classroom.

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