Virginia's remarkable preservation work is not limited to buildings. The state has also worked to conserve historic battlefields. Through a program called "Virginia's Civil War Trails," tourists can visit the site of important battles between Confederate and Union troops. Call (888) 248-4592 for a packet of information that will lead you on a progression of military landmarks throughout Richmond and the state.

After you've had a chance to appreciate old Richmond, make some time for the newer attractions. The Shockoe Slip section of town, once a warehouse district, is now the nightlife neighborhood. Carytown is a good spot for walking, shopping or visiting museums and galleries. You could also catch a movie at the Byrd, a restored movie house from the '30s where a ticket costs just 99 cents. Monument Avenue is a wide boulevard upon which stand statues of Richmond's celebrities, including tennis star Arthur Ashe, who was born in Richmond.

Nearby, you can find a good meal at Millie's Diner. Millie's sits where the historic Kullman Diner once did. The Kullman was originally built for neighborhood factory workers. Nowadays it's packed with lovers of good food and great jukebox music. You'll want to order Millie's signature dish: Devil's Mess -- a plate of peppers, onions, eggplant and hot Italian sausage, stewed with curry and pan-fried eggs.

Next stop is the Jackson Ward district, birthplace of black capitalism and the home of the Black History Museum. In the early 1900s it was considered to be a black Wall Street. One of the inspirational figures in this community was a woman named Maggie Walker, whose former home is now a major attraction. At the turn of the century, Walker became the first woman millionaire and the first black president of an American bank.

Walker's story begins with the application for a loan, which she was denied. She decided that the only way to finance her business was to pool the meager resources of her African-American community and open her own savings and loan. She called it the St. Luke's Pennies and Savings Bank, and she got customers to bring their pennies in to start a savings account. Walker turned those pennies into dollars, which eventually became a great investment for the community. Plus, she taught others how to invest their dollars so that one day they could purchase land, build a house or start a business. Today, Jackson Ward is going through another revitalization as part of the city's "Vision 2000" project.

No tour of Richmond is complete without a trip on the James River, for the city would not have existed without the waterway. The river was Richmond's main thoroughfare in colonial times and the cheapest, most efficient way to ship slave-harvested tobacco out and bring goods in.

Today visitors can travel the river and see the James River Falls on the Annabel Lee, an antique paddlewheel steamer. If that's too fancy, there's always the raft. The Richmond Raft Co. will set you up with a trained guide and all the gear you need to go white-water rafting right through the center of the city. The trip offers a close look at the beauty of the falls, and is yet another proud piece of Richmond, Va.

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