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A L S O _T O D A Y

[ N E W S R E A L ]
The man who would be king
By Jonathan Broder
Indonesia's new leader says he has been given divine gifts and that his name vibrates in the hearts of children. How is that likely to play with the IMF?


T A B L E_T A L K

Discuss the Indonesian crises in the International Issues area of Table Talk


R E C E N T L Y

Mondo Weirdo
Oh, those tropical nights!
Readers relate their nocturnal adventures in the wilds of Australia and Indonesia
(05/21/98)

"A Walk in the Woods"
By Bill Bryson
An almost-encounter with two big animals in the middle of the night
(05/20/98)

A talk with Bill Bryson
By Don George
On writing, hiking and other arduous pleasures
(05/20/98)

Student protests bloom
By Rolf Potts
Spring is here -- time to put on the riot gear!
(05/19/98)

The tomb of the unknown soldier
By Roxanne Nelson
An unforgettable encounter in southern France
(05/18/98)

 
Browse the
Wanderlust Postmark archives
 






L E T T E R__F R O M__JA K A R T A

When all hell breaks loose, what's an expat to do?
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BY JEFF PULICE | JAKARTA, Indonesia -- May 20: "The American Embassy advises all American citizens to avoid nonessential travel to Indonesia at this time. American citizens are urged to leave Indonesia."

I bang the top of the monitor with my fist. I knew that the rise in fuel and food prices would drive people into the streets. I knew that there might be some looting and that maybe my Chinese/Sudanese/Dutch wife and her family might need to stay off the streets for a few days.

But now I am being asked to leave. Seven years of teaching, of making friends from every circle of Indonesian society -- would I run?

My cell phone, both land lines and my e-mail are flying with messages. My friends and family here are desperate for information -- what's burning? Who's been hurt? Where is safe? My U.S. friends and family are simply sticking to one message: "Get out. Get out now!"

Paul, my best friend here, calls, worried.

"Uh, buddy, how would you feel about me coming out and staying with you a few days?"

CNN says the roads are blocked, Singapore's Straits Times says looters are pulling non-Indonesians from their cars. My house is big and easy to defend with high walls and guards, but Paul is all the way across the city.

"Do it. If you can't make it through, pull back to the embassy. Watch for me on the road."

"I'll bring meat."

"Don't bring a damn thing, just get here. Trust your driver -- if he thinks you should pull back, pull back."

My wife watches as I get ready to go out, her lovely face clouded with worry. "Please don't go. I'm serious, Jeffrey."

I kiss her and tell her to call my cell phone if the trouble starts moving toward us.

On my bike, I am the usual big white galoot the locals have come to know around my neighborhood. In a car, I might be the enemy. On a mountain bike in shiny shorts, I'm just some foolish tourist out exercising.

I come to the head of the street to find that a mob has blocked off the road. I ride through, smiling and asking what's going on. "Isip-isip, doang," is the answer -- just playing. I don't look at the men -- they seem edgy, as if the battle to get rid of their leader, President Suharto, might have to be fought at the gates of the university they stand in front of.

Down the road, a car is burning. It's a Timor, one of the cars the president's son decided to import illegally. I get on the phone and warn all my Timor-driving friends to stay off the roads.

I see trucks begin to turn around -- but I also see a way to get through. I look back down the road and see Paul's white Isuzu Panther slowing down. I fish my phone out of my bag as it starts to ring.

"Paul, I see you."

"Haris says we can't make it."

N E X T+P A G E | Downtown is gone



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PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID LONGSTREATH/AP

Above: Jakarta university students shout angry slogans at a pro-government group of demonstrators Tuesday.


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