Allen St. John
Why “Top Chef” gets me cooking
The Bravo show isn't just a spectator sport. For me, it offers what a million cookbooks can't: Inspiration
"Top Chef" season seven premieres Wednesday, June 16. I can hardly wait for tonight’s premiere of “Top Chef.” Not because I expect the season’s seven cheftestants to reprise last year’s Shakespearean battle for kitchen supremacy between the fiercely rival Brothers Voltaggio. Not in the vain hope of forming a geek bond with Michigan engineering grad-turned-chef John Somerville like the one I had with losing finalist Kevin Gillespie, who ditched MIT to go to culinary school. Not even for a glimpse of Padma Lakshmi, post baby bump. (Well, maybe a little.)
Why, then, am I literally drooling with anticipation? Because of the way I’ll eat afterward. Let me explain.
I will be the first to admit that “Top Chef” is a fundamentally flawed enterprise. Say what you will about “American Idol,” but the audience at home can hear Crystal Bowersox caterwauling just as well as Simon Cowell. On “Top Chef,” you get to watch frantic knife work, precise plating and maybe a little bickering around the walk-in, but you’ve got to rely on Judge Tom Colicchio and friends to tell you how the food on those elegant plates tasted. Indeed, the producers at Magical Elves edit the episodes with an eye toward maximum suspense rather than ultimate clarity. Midway through last season Laurine Wickett’s pork rillette was likened to cat food by one cranky judge, but she wasn’t canned that week, and another contestant was ordered to “pack up your knives and go” (PUYKAG, to faithful viewers). Which is why Colicchio and the other judges devote a substantial portion of their Bravo.com blogs to explaining/defending the outcomes.
To twist an adage often applied to music writing, watching “Top Chef” is a bit like smelling architecture.
But it’s still worth watching anyway — especially if, like me, you like to cook.
In a buzzworthy New York Times magazine piece last summer, food guru Michael Pollan slammed shows like “Top Chef” for turning cooking into a spectator sport. “Today the average American spends a mere 27 minutes a day on food preparation (another four minutes cleaning up); that’s less than half the time that we spent cooking and cleaning up when Julia [Child] arrived on our television screens,” he argued. “It’s also less than half the time it takes to watch a single episode of ‘Top Chef’ or ‘Chopped’ or ‘The Next Food Network Star.’ What this suggests is that a great many Americans are spending considerably more time watching images of cooking on television than they are cooking themselves — an increasingly archaic activity they will tell you they no longer have the time for.”
While Pollan is right about most things foodly, I fear he’s missed the mark this time. Like most home chefs, I’ve got a kitchen full of cookbooks and a growing trove of Internet resources. I don’t need instruction, I need inspiration.
And more than anything, watching “Top Chef” gets me hungry. And when I’m hungry, I want to cook. After the cheftestants struggle through a Quickfire Challenge, I’ll steal off to the kitchen during a commercial break to whip up a curried aioli. Or a Meyer lemon marinade. Or a pancetta omelet. This watch/cook, watch/cook ritual is repeated week after week, all season long. Contrary to Pollan’s thesis, I spend more quality time in the kitchen during “Top Chef” than any other time of the year.
Sometimes the show’s inspiration is pretty general. During last season’s Restaurant Wars, I filled the fridge with everything from spunky goat cheese crepes to postmodern baked beans enlivened with Guinness and 70 percent Lindt dark chocolate. Other times, it’s quite specific, like the time I channeled Mike Voltaggio’s audacious — but ultimately disastrous — egg concoction. I scratched my head, fondled a fresh free-range egg laid that morning by a spunky, young hen named Clover, and deconstructed it, sunny side up. (Separate the egg, scramble the white curd-free with creme fraiche in the style of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and top the scrambled white with the lightly poached yolk.)
Therein lies the appeal of “Top Chef.” Unlike the contestants on, say, “The Next Food Network Star,” who seem chosen largely for their ability to smile and stir at the same time, the men and women vying for supremacy can flat-out cook. Even those sterling regional chefs who inevitably get PUYKAG’d before the finals — like Ariane Duarte, from my hometown of Montclair, N.J., ushered off midway through Season 6 — make food that’ll challenge your mind as well as your taste buds. And unlike the one-off contestants of “Chopped” and “Iron Chef,” or even the competing-for-charity virtuosos of the recently concluded “Top Chef Masters,” there’s something serious at stake for the cooks of “Top Chef”: The juice from winning the title or coming close can make a career, and I know from experience that desperation can be a key ingredient in a successful dish.
Sure, I’d like to see telestratored super slo-mo replays of the knife work. Or a primer on trussing a chicken that goes into half as much detail as this You Tube video on inguinal hernia repair. And I’d like to know more about how the contestants assemble their flavor profiles and less about who’s doin’ what to/with whom (see the Season 2 hazing of Marcel Vigneron by Cliff Crooks and friends, and the Season 5 dalliance between Leah Cohen and eventual champ Hosea Rosenberg). The food is interesting enough.
There are indications that this season, like last, might offer more of the right kind of heat. Xie Xie’s Angelo Sosa has cooked with heavyweights like Jean-Georges and Alain Ducasse, while Ed Cotton of Plein Sud has opened restaurants for Daniel Boulud, and Kevin Sbraga is a protégé of Jose Garces. The fact that snarkmeister Toby Young will be replaced at the judges table by the peerless Eric Ripert of Le Bernadin fame is another hopeful sign.
I know that “Top Chef” is bound to fall back on its reality-show tropes, from simmering feuds between the chefs (“You’re not my mother!”) to stunt cooking challenges (alligator, anyone?) to episodes that pay lip service to this season’s Washington, D.C., location (“Your challenge is to create a truly bi-partisan brunch … using only red and blue foods”). But strip away these made-for-TV trappings and you have a show that does something rather remarkable: It sparks the imagination. So program the DVR, sharpen the Shun santoku, and head into the kitchen to make something that’s worth eating. I’m getting hungry already.
Olympics: Ohno no more
The short-track star wraps up his Olympics in controversial style. Plus: The joy of sports where crashes count
USA's Apolo Anton Ohno reacts after being disqualified from the men's 500m finals short track skating competition at the Vancouver 2010 Olympics in Vancouver, British Columbia, Friday, Feb. 26, 2010. (AP Photo/Amy Sancetta)(Credit: AP) “She looks just like Shaun White,” says my 10-year old daughter Emma. It’s a little after 4 p.m., and the rest of the world is watching hockey, or Oprah. I am tuned to MSNBC, watching Mirjam Ott, the Swiss skip in curling, slide stones in the bronze medal game of women’s curling against China. I find it vaguely comforting, like watching C-Span or Chasing Classic Cars.
I construct an elaborate backstory for Ms. Ott, she of the curly red mane. Sponsored by a cartel of Swiss Banks, she built a secret ice sheet where she could push the bounds of curling without pressure from adoring fans, jealous competitors, and the paparazzi. Working with the aid of a foam pit, she will get the rocks to curl both to and fro—a front side double Spin Doctor 1260. She tries to get the rocks to curl over each other, to play the game above the ice, but she misses the foam pit and it’s ugly. Her entourage including Roger Federer’s racket stringer and a St. Bernard named Guenther gather by her side as they await an ambulance….
Continue Reading CloseRickey Henderson
Say what you will about his attitude, he walks the walk. And in the last few days he's walked right into the record books -- twice.
For years I’ve had this ritual. Every morning, I log onto my computer, check for desperate e-mails from desperate editors, then open the bookmark for Rickey Henderson’s career stats. I scroll down to the runs-scored column and see if, based on last night’s action, the number has inched closer to 2,245.
It’s the kind of guilty pleasure only a baseball fan can understand. Baseball is the only sport where stats really resonate, where you can forge a connection with your favorite player based on a page full of numbers. It was about eight years ago that I first noticed that Henderson had a legitimate shot at breaking the longest-standing major hitting record on the books: Ty Cobb’s mark of 2,245 runs scored. And this is the week that he finally did it.
Continue Reading CloseFor love of burning rubber
Auto racing is about speed and hot chicks and cool sunglasses, yes. But it's also, in a very real sense, about life and death.
On days like this I wonder why I watch auto racing, why I think about auto racing, and, yes, why I love auto racing.
Let me start out with a disclaimer. I don’t fit the profile. I don’t like football because it’s too violent. I’d sooner sit through a “Joanie Loves Chachi” marathon than go hunting. And I do not now nor have I ever owned a Lynyrd Skynyrd album.
My infatuation with burning rubber and six-point safety harnesses started when I was, oh, about 8. I found race drivers, like firemen and astronauts, heroic and adventurous and just plain groovy. Cool sunglasses. Hot chicks. And exhaust so loud you had to wear earplugs. What could be sexier? At first I watched anything that moved fast, including NASCAR stock cars, but I soon gravitated toward Formula One Grand Prix racing. The cars were exotic. The race tracks unpronounceable. And the drivers raked in more than Tom Seaver. I was hooked.
Continue Reading CloseChampions again, thank you very much
Hype about a blood feud aside, the Mets prove to be delightful hosts as the Yankees storm to another title.
“Not in our house.” That was the theme the Mets latched onto as they fought to stave off elimination in the World Series on Thursday night. No, it’s not original — it’s borrowed from the big locker-room scene from the college football tearjerker “Rudy.” And, no, it didn’t work.
Mets skipper Bobby Valentine, who has never been accused of undermanaging, allowed Al Leiter to pitch to Luis Sojo with two on, two out and the score tied 2-2 in the top of the ninth. On Leiter’s arm-numbing 142nd pitch of the night, Sojo — who by some Miracle on 161st Street seemingly learned to hit this season at the advanced age of 33 — bounced a single to score Jorge Posada and Scott Brosius with the go-ahead runs. The Yankees held on to win 4-2.
Continue Reading CloseWhere have you gone, Darryl Strawberry?
As his old team takes a 3-1 Series lead over his other old team, a former hero takes another classic fall.
The wire story was short and to the point. “Troubled slugger Darryl Strawberry, already on probation for a drug charge, was jailed Wednesday after he was arrested for allegedly testing positive for cocaine.”
So as I arrived at Shea Stadium, Darryl’s old haunt, for Game 4 of the World Series, this news was little more than prompt for a trivia question — who is the only player to win a World Series with both the Mets and the Yankees? But strange as it seems to admit it on this side of the millennium, Darryl Strawberry is my favorite baseball player. There, I said it.
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