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	<title>Salon.com > Burt Wolf</title>
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	<link>http://www.salon.com</link>
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		<title>A touch of Springfield</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/10/05/springfield/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/10/05/springfield/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Oct 2000 19:47:00 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Arts]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/entertainment/col/wolf/2000/10/05/springfield</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Abraham Lincoln's hometown is a great place for a family vacation.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Springfield, the capital of Illinois, was Abraham Lincoln's hometown. I went there to see what his personal life was really like, to find out why he suddenly grew a beard just before he became president, to see the house he lived in and the monument where he eventually came to rest. </p><p>But Springfield turned out to be more than just about Lincoln. It's a place where you can tour one of the great works of Frank Lloyd Wright. It's a town where the signature dish is a horseshoe sandwich and where the corn-battered, deep-fried frankfurter was invented. In short, Springfield is the spot for a quintessential American holiday. </p><p>My first stop was the Lincoln Herndon law offices, where Lincoln rose to prominence as an attorney. It was a perfect office for a young attorney because the federal courtroom was directly underneath. When Lincoln was alone in his room, he would lie down on the floor, open the corner of a trapdoor in the ceiling of the courtroom and listen to more experienced attorneys arguing their cases. </p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/10/05/springfield/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>A trip through freedom&#8217;s hometown</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/08/31/philly_4/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/08/31/philly_4/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 31 Aug 2000 23:11:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/entertainment/col/wolf/2000/08/31/philly</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In Philadelphia, the Liberty Bell is a symbol of both America's ideals and its failings.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The most visited tourist spot in Philadelphia is the Liberty Bell; No. 2 is the Franklin Mills Outlet Mall, which confirms my belief that our nation was founded on the freedom to shop. </p><p>In fact, Philadelphia got its start because of an invoice that was overdue. England's King Charles II owed 16,000 pounds to William Penn, but the king was a little short of cash, so he paid off the debt by giving Penn a huge tract of land in North America -- an area bigger than England. </p><p>Penn was an aristocrat, which the king liked, but he was also a Quaker, which the king didn't like. The Quakers were much too liberal for the king; they believed in freedom of religion, and thought that a government should represent the needs of all the people. Outrageous ideas! </p><p>Charles threw 10,000 Quakers into prison, Penn among them. So the opportunity to pay off a debt, and send Penn and the Quakers to a colony 3,000 miles away, seemed like a great idea. Penn could conduct his holy experiment so far away that the king would not be bothered. </p><p>Only one problem -- the ideas that came to Pennsylvania with the Quakers were the very ideas that formed the basis of the Declaration of Independence and the Revolutionary War. Some days, you just can't win. </p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/08/31/philly_4/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>The good life and the wildlife</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/08/17/naples/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/08/17/naples/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Aug 2000 19:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/entertainment/col/wolf/2000/08/17/naples</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Visit Naples, Fla., for its cypress groves, gorgeous orchids and teddy bear museums. Stay for the seven-mile crescent beach of pine and palm.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>At the turn of the last century, the wealthy families of North America began building winter homes in Florida. The Northeast's rich and flashy built their homes on Florida's east coast. The Midwest's rich and never-to-be-flashy built their homes on Florida's west coast. They came here to Naples and constructed a community of quiet luxury. </p><p>Today, Naples is one of the richest and fastest-growing cities in America. But because it sits on a strip of land that runs between the Gulf of Mexico and the fragile ecosystem of the Everglades, the residents are deeply involved in protecting their natural environment, despite the rapid growth. In other words, this Florida city loves the good life but it is just as concerned with its wildlife. </p><p>Naples got its start in 1885, when Walter Haldeman, the owner of the Louisville (Ky.) Courier newspaper, sailed down the west coast of Florida. He was looking for a healthy spot to build a winter home for his family. At the time, the lower west coast of Florida was almost totally deserted. There was no one in Naples -- no houses, no tents, no Native Americans. There wasn't even a Naples! But there was a beautiful seven-mile crescent beach lined with pine trees and palm trees. Haldeman and a group of his friends bought the land and drew up the plans for Naples. </p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/08/17/naples/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Beyond the beach</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/08/03/miami_6/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/08/03/miami_6/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:28:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/entertainment/col/wolf/2000/08/03/miami</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In Miami, you can have fun in the sun -- and then experience the finest of the fine arts.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The men and women who started developing Miami and Miami Beach at the beginning of the 20th century decided that the best way to attract attention to their community and profit from its growth was to project a single coordinated image: that of a playground in the sun where visitors could live it up. And they spent the entire century telling that story to the world. </p><p>For over 80 years Miami promoted fun in the sun and for most of those years it was a complete and accurate portrayal. That, however, is no longer the case. In January 1995, over 200,000 people stretched out on Miami Beach, but this time they didn't come for the sun and the surf. They came to hear Luciano Pavarotti. Pavarotti and other superstars of the classical music world like Placido Domingo, Itzhak Perlman, Vladimir Ashkenazy and Mikhail Baryshnikov have all added Miami to their concert tours. </p><p>This cultural evolution might never have happened if not for a visionary named Judith Drucker, a dynamic devotee of the arts who is credited with being the first person to bringing world-class performing artists to Florida. </p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/08/03/miami_6/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Spirit in the skyway</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/07/12/minneapolis/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/07/12/minneapolis/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Jul 2000 19:44:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[In Minneapolis-St. Paul, the Pillsbury Co. and the Mall of America set the tone foodwise. 
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It was Mark Twain who first called Minneapolis and St. Paul "the Twin Cities," but they are clearly not identical twins. St. Paul was born first. In 1840, a bootlegging saloonkeeper started a settlement that he called "Pig's Eye." About a year later, a priest by the name of Lucien Galtier arrived, built a church and dedicated it to St. Paul. The locals recognized a brilliant opportunity for a public relations move and changed the name of the area to St. Paul. In 1858, the territory of Minnesota became a state, and St. Paul became the capital. </p><p>The population of St. Paul is about 272,000, but it has managed to hold on to the charm of a small town. Its Grand Avenue is a busy shopping street, but the shops are tucked into old houses that give the neighborhood a friendly hometown feeling. St. Paul contains many preserved and refurbished buildings, many of which date back more than 100 years. </p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/07/12/minneapolis/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>From famine to feast</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/06/07/richmond/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/06/07/richmond/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Jun 2000 19:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Virginia]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/06/07/richmond</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Virginia's capital is rich with America's history.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>I</b>n 1607, when the first English colonists came to Virginia, the nearby waters were crowded with fish and the forest rich with game, fruits, vegetables and nuts. The land could have supplied the settlers with all the food they needed. And yet they were starving to death. </p><p> The colonists didn't want to eat any unfamiliar food. Most of the settlers of the Virginia wilderness were from the English middle class. They were tradesmen and merchants who knew very little about fishing, farming and hunting. Fortunately for the settlers (less so for the Indians), the Native American tribes began to trade with them, and soon surviving off the land was possible. In fact, in just a few decades the colonists had a booming tobacco business going. It was an extremely profitable crop and led to the development of large plantations. </p><p> A 20-minute drive east of Richmond along the James River brings you to Shirley, a plantation established in 1613. These days it's home to the 10th and 11th generations of the Carter family, who let visitors tour some of the historically significant areas of the property, like the central hall of the main house, which features a 250-year-old "flying staircase." Supported by two wrought-iron straps -- each an inch thick and 4 inches wide -- the staircase is like an indoor suspension bridge. According to engineers, this kind of construction shouldn't hold. It's like the bumblebee that shouldn't be able to fly, given its disproportionate design, but manages anyway. </p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/06/07/richmond/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Donated statues and prayerful pretzels</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/05/31/munich/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/05/31/munich/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 31 May 2000 19:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/2000/05/31/munich</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Munich's got the best of Germany --  open plazas, a commitment to art and food so fatty you'll never want to leave.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In Munich, donating a public fountain has become a local fashion. Take a stroll downtown and the fountains are the first thing you'll notice -- there are more than 1,000 of them. Like the public gardens throughout the city, the fountains enhance the light, offer a serene space and lend the city an open feeling. With most of its important sites reachable on foot, Munich makes a great destination for tourists.</p><p>The city was founded in 1158 as a mint and marketplace by Henry the Lion, Duke of Saxony. One of its most beautiful open spaces is the 900-acre English Garden, which sits in the center of town. Created during the late 1700s, the garden sprang from the mind of Benjamin Thompson, an American expatriate who'd befriended the Prince of Bavaria. When the garden was constructed as a park, open to everyone in the city, it gave Munich something unique: a place where people of different classes could come together in a relaxed and natural setting.</p><p>The rulers of Bavaria were into music as well as parks, and they made Munich a great city for music lovers. The National Theater is one of the finest opera houses in the world, specializing in the works of local heroes such as Mozart, Wagner and Strauss.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/05/31/munich/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Hey, man, it&#039;s Cayman</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/05/17/cayman/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/05/17/cayman/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 17 May 2000 16:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[Turtle meat, pirates and 10 sunken ships: The grand island has something for everyone.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>T</b>he motto on the national emblem of the<br />
Cayman Islands reads: "He Hath Founded<br />
It Upon the Seas." On the seas indeed:<br />
No point on any of the three islands --<br />
Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac and Little<br />
Cayman -- that compose this British<br />
crown colony is more than a few minutes'<br />
drive from the ocean.</p><p>Christopher Columbus is credited with<br />
the discovery of the Caymans in 1503. In<br />
subsequent years, sailors descended<br />
on the islands for fresh water and<br />
turtle meat, of which there was plenty.<br />
Fishermen and shipbuilders soon<br />
followed, and pirates -- Sir Henry<br />
Morgan and Blackbeard, among others --<br />
are said to have made camp there. But it<br />
wasn't long before the spot was luring<br />
tourists, and in the early 18th century,<br />
visitors began sticking around to build<br />
homes.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/05/17/cayman/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Fire and ice</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/05/10/edinburgh/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/05/10/edinburgh/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 May 2000 16:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/05/10/edinburgh</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Scorched by volcanic eruptions and scored by passing glaciers, Edinburgh offers fertile ground for literary minds of all kinds.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>E</b>dinburgh was born of fire and sculpted by ice. At one point the entire area was under a shallow tropical sea that was subject to intense geothermal activity -- volcanoes bubbling under water. When the ice age arrived, it deposited a 2-mile-thick sheet of ice on top of this land. When the ice moved, it tipped upward so dramatically that it scraped away all the soft debris, earth and rock, and carved out seven hills. These hills became Edinburgh, and they are still volcanic.</p><p>The first references to Scotland's central city of Edinburgh appear in A.D. 160, in the notes of Ptolemy, but the area had already been inhabited for at least 6,000 years. The first residents were hunters and fishermen, followed by Celtic tribes who had been forced out of Europe. In A.D. 80, Roman legions marched in, hung out for a while and then headed home. The Romans were followed by the English, who may also be heading home.</p><p>The first site in the area to be colonized was probably a hill called Arthur's Seat, just outside of modern Edinburgh. Precisely which Arthur actually sat there isn't clear. Romantics suggest the legendary King Arthur of the Round Table, though no evidence supports that view.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/05/10/edinburgh/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Belgian delights</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/05/03/antwerp/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/05/03/antwerp/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 May 2000 16:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[Brussels is great, but Antwerp has its own giant-killing hero.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>M</b>ost visitors to Belgium end up spending all of their time in <a href="/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/04/28/brussels/index.html">Brussels,</a> which is OK. But the distances between Belgian cities are extremely short and a train ride of less than an hour will bring you so much more perspective on the country.</p><p>Take Antwerp, just 45 minutes from Brussels: Built on the Scheldt River, Antwerp has been a major port for more than 2,000 years. And as the statue of Silvius Brabo in the middle of the central marketplace will remind you, life in the city wasn't always as calm as it is now.</p><p>Legend has it that a giant lived on the Scheldt. He would charge an excessive toll to any ship that passed by his castle, lopping off the hands of anyone who failed to pay. The giant had Antwerp in an economic stranglehold. It was the Roman soldier Brabo who had the courage to kill the giant. Brabo, of course, chopped off the giant's hand and threw it in the river.</p><p>Free from the giant's control, the city prospered. The textile industry made many people rich and they showed their thanks by building one of the largest cathedrals in the world. Antwerp became a center for book publishing and diamond cutting. Great artists worked there. And good food became an interest to many who could afford it.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/05/03/antwerp/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Why to love Brussels</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/04/28/brussels/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/04/28/brussels/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Apr 2000 16:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<category><![CDATA[Beer]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/04/28/brussels</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[What the future capital of United Europe owes to one intense night of opera.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>B</b>russels, the capital of Belgium, is also the capital<br />
of what is trying to become a United Europe, and it is<br />
an ideal city for the honor. The population of Belgium<br />
is made up of three different cultural groups that<br />
speak three different languages -- French, Dutch and<br />
German. The country's people are polite, tactful and<br />
neighborly, making it perfect for the capital of a new<br />
Europe and ideal for a visiting tourist.</p><p>The revolution of 1830 that produced a free and<br />
independent Belgium started one evening in the<br />
Brussels Opera House. The opera being performed had an<br />
aria in which a singer cried, "Far better to die than<br />
to live in slavery. Away with the foreigners!" It was<br />
the perfect spark: The audience got up, walked into<br />
the streets and began the revolution that got rid of<br />
the Dutch.</p><p>To ignite a revolution with an opera is surprising,<br />
but so are many other things in Brussels. Brussels is the<br />
headquarters of NATO and home to more than 1,000<br />
international corporations. It is sophisticated and<br />
cosmopolitan and, at the same time, filled with<br />
historic sites. What's more, the people are helpful,<br />
are generally fluent in English and enjoy speaking it<br />
with Americans.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/04/28/brussels/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Fiddling around in Asheville</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/04/21/asheville/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/04/21/asheville/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Apr 2000 16:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/04/21/asheville</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This North Carolina corner of Appalachia offers an unexpected range of traditional riches.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>D</b>uring the 1800s, magazines in the<br />
northeastern United States began<br />
carrying stories about the "unusual"<br />
behavior of people in other places.<br />
They were called "local color" stories<br />
and tended to focus on "bizarre"<br />
behavior.  One of the areas targeted for<br />
this type of story was Appalachia.</p><p>The Civil War devastated<br />
Appalachia.  Many people ended up poor,<br />
isolated and uneducated, and they became<br />
the subjects of these magazine stories.<br />
They were presented as "backward<br />
mountaineers living in a region within,<br />
but not part of, modern American life."</p><p>Of course, there were thousands of<br />
people in the Northeast who were also<br />
poor, isolated and uneducated, but<br />
readers preferred imported stories of<br />
poverty rather than hearing of their own<br />
domestic problems.  The stories about<br />
Appalachia were distorted.  They focused<br />
on the peculiar and the outrageous. They<br />
ignored the natural beauty of the area,<br />
and the skilled, intelligent and<br />
responsible people who lived there.  I recently traveled<br />
through the Appalachian districts<br />
surrounding Asheville, N.C., to see what<br />
this part of the world is really like.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/04/21/asheville/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Spaghetti and sauerkraut</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/04/14/trieste/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/04/14/trieste/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Apr 2000 16:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[All Salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Theater]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/04/14/trieste</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Trieste, Italy&#039;s monument to religious freedom, mixes the old with the even older.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>T</b>rieste sits on the shore of the Adriatic Sea in the northeast corner of Italy. It's an Italian city that speaks Italian and eats pasta, but it was part of the Austrian Empire for hundreds of years, so it also speaks German and eats sauerkraut.</p><p>The city is a monument to the freedom of religion and a center for music from Puccini to pop. It has a 2,000-year-old history of great, varied theater. It's home to one of the most romantic castles in Italy and the largest domed grotto in the world. The city's Italian heritage makes it romantic, but its Austrian heritage makes you show up on time for your kiss.</p><p>For the past several millenniums the sea has controlled Trieste's destiny. Trieste's position as the most northern port on the Adriatic Sea made it one of the most important trading centers in Europe. Sugar and spice came up from the Mediterranean and went on to central Europe; the goods from central Europe came down and went out to the ports of the Mediterranean and Africa.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/04/14/trieste/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Magic beans</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/04/06/coffee_4/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/04/06/coffee_4/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Apr 2000 16:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Coffee and tea]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[France]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/04/06/coffee</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[How the Trieste dukes got the dough and we got espresso.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>F</b>rom 1740 to 1780, Maria Theresa was the ruling monarch of the Austrian<br />
empire. Her only port city was Trieste at the northern end of the Adriatic<br />
Sea, and here she was charged with, among other things, the tricky task of integrating the city's old<br />
aristocracy with its new merchants. The counts had the titles but the<br />
merchants had the money -- and money counted.  The question was, how could she<br />
get these two groups together?  The aristocracy wouldn't allow the<br />
merchants into their homes, and they certainly wouldn't go to the homes of<br />
the merchants.</p><p>Turns out it was acceptable for the children of the aristocracy to meet<br />
the children of the merchants in a cafe, and eventually marry the money.<br />
That worked. The dukes got the dough, the countesses got the cash and the<br />
city of Trieste got some great cafes, a number of which are still open.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/04/06/coffee_4/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Slippery slope</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/03/31/skiing/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/03/31/skiing/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[Skiing started as transportation, ended up recreation. And Beaver Creek, Colo., offers some great recreation.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>B</b>eaver Creek is one of the most celebrated ski resorts in the world. It has a magnificent setting and was designed to be luxurious but it was also planned for families -- an unusual combination. The town has a quiet elegance, and as with any town, if you understand how it got to be what it is, you'll have a better appreciation of the place.</p><p>The Native American Utes called the land around Beaver Creek "The Shining Mountains" and had been living here for over 10,000 years when the first white men showed up in the 1840s. They were mountain men and hunters and they were just wandering through.</p><p>During the 1860s, gold prospectors started poking around in Colorado. They had come over from California after the 1849 gold rush petered out. One of the first things that a prospector learns is that gold drains down from the mountains -- the great mother lode is always going to be up there somewhere. So they kept following the creeks into the mountains. The prospectors who came into Beaver Creek didn't find the mother lode, but they did find enough gold to make a living and they settled down and built small towns. Normally, miners lived on their claim site, but these guys spent their days up in the mountains and their nights in town.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/03/31/skiing/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Big golden-hearted city</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/03/24/san_francisco_4/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/03/24/san_francisco_4/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Mar 2000 17:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[California]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[San Francisco]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/03/24/san_francisco</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A traveler&#039;s guide to the history and traditions of San Francisco]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>T</b>he frontier cities of the United States were originally settled by small  groups of people who shared the same values, the same religion and the same  hope for a new life in the New World. They wanted to build communities based  on agriculture, craft work and trading -- Puritans in Boston, Mormons in Salt  Lake City, Catholics in New Orleans. There is, however, one extraordinary  exception -- San Francisco.</p><p><b>There's gold in them thar hills</b></p><p>San Francisco was settled by 25,000 guys who showed up one afternoon to find  gold. They came from all over the world -- Europe, Asia, South America and  Africa. They were Catholic, Protestant, Russian Orthodox, Buddhist and  Jewish. They came from just about every ethnic or religious group you can  think of, and as they mixed together they established the traditions that make  San Francisco what it is today.</p><p>Native tribes had been living in the neighborhood for thousands of years when  the Spanish wandered in during the 1700s and began building missions along  the California coast. But nothing much happened until 1848, when gold was  discovered in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/03/24/san_francisco_4/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Birthdays all over</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/03/09/birthday_4/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/03/09/birthday_4/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Mar 2000 17:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[Next time you sing "Happy Birthday," you&#039;ll know what you&#039;re singing about.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>E</b>arlier this week I was a guest at a birthday that was celebrated in a restaurant, reminding me that in the United States, birthdays are among the most common occasions for dining out. The birthday person is singled out, often to his or her acute embarrassment. The embarrassment is, in fact, <i>expected</i> and the victim must indeed appear embarrassed even if he or she is not -- this acknowledges the considerable effort made by the party throwers. A restaurant also provides the opportunity to announce a friendship to strangers, a gesture that never fails to help define and reinforce the relationship.</p><p>We sang "Happy Birthday To You" which was copyrighted in 1893 by two sisters, Mildred J. Hill, a church organist and authority on Negro spirituals, and Patty Smith Hill, a professor of education at Columbia University. They were born in Louisville, Ky., and published the song together in "Songs and Stories for the Kindergarten." It was originally called "Good Morning to All" and was similar to several other songs written earlier. The tune was changed here and there and the words "Happy Birthday to You" were added to the second stanza in 1924 by an unknown lyricist, who neglected to apply for a new copyright. It is the most frequently sung song in the Anglo-Saxon world.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/03/09/birthday_4/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Sexual license, cross-dressing and other healthy behavior</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/03/02/feast/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/03/02/feast/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Mar 2000 17:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Life]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Why we need the excesses of Carnival.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>I</b>n the middle of the 15th century, a Parisian theologian compared people to wine fermenting in a barrel. He believed that barrels of aging wine needed to be opened just to keep them from exploding. And that the wine of human madness needed to be released at least once each year in order to transform itself into the good wine of pious devotion. He was writing about the Feast of Saturn and its modern incarnation, the <a href="/travel/feature/2000/02/26/rio/index.html">Carnival.</a></p><p>In ancient Rome, there were more slaves than slave-owners and more paupers than patricians. One of the techniques used to distract the wretched souls at the bottom of Roman society and keep them from doing the math and overturning the structure was the Feast of Saturn. It was a government-sponsored festival that took place in the cities and was calculated to release the tensions between the "rich and famous" and "the never-to-be-rich and famous."</p><p>Cities are artificial, gridlike and designed to be structured and orderly. Many people living in them feel they require regular infusions of new life. Mythically speaking, that new life can only come from outside the city, from "Out There." The Feast of Saturn was essentially a strategy for letting the Wild Otherness into the city.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/03/02/feast/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Breaking the rules</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/02/24/napa/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Feb 2000 17:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/02/24/napa</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[California&#039;s Napa Valley is redefining our national cuisine.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>F</b>or decades people have been saying that the United States doesn't have its own cuisine, that all our gastronomic traditions were brought in from other cultures. But in fact, there is no country with a significant culinary tradition that hasn't taken major elements from other places. It's just that they borrowed them so long ago and used them so often, by now they think those things belong to them. Just like my son Stephen and my winter gloves.</p><p>And yet there are times in the history of a country's eating and drinking when the level of culinary skill and creativity takes its borrowed base and produces something so different that it is clearly indigenous to the nation.  That is exactly what is happening right now in California's Napa Valley, where  it will almost certainly continue happening well into the 21st century.</p><p><b>Show us the money</b><br></p><p>There are a number of things that produce top quality restaurant cooking in an area, cooking that can evolve into a distinct culinary tradition.  First is money. If people will not pay for top ingredients and talented chefs, not much is going to happen.</p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/02/24/napa/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>A short guide to Curagao</title>
		<link>http://www.salon.com/2000/02/17/curacao/</link>
		<comments>http://www.salon.com/2000/02/17/curacao/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Feb 2000 17:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.salon.com/travel/food/col/wolf/2000/02/17/curacao</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Our roving connoisseur explores the Caribbean island&#039;s history and highlights.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><b>T</b>he island of Curagao was formed 90 million years ago in the Pacific Ocean near Peru, got pushed into the Caribbean Sea to a point just off the coast of Venezuela and ended up as part of the Dutch Kingdom of the Netherlands. (And I thought my life was confusing!)</p><p>The capital city of Willemstad is like a mini-Amsterdam transported to a tropical climate. The coral reefs that surround the island have made it a premier destination for divers. The beaches have made it a premier  destination for vacationers. Only 150,000 people live on the island but they came from more than 50 different nations. This extraordinary ethnic mix makes for marvelously multicultural  traditions.</p><p>The first Europeans to set foot on Curagao were Spanish explorers who arrived in 1499. As soon as they realized there was no gold on the island, they set up a few cattle farms as a future source of food and shoved off. In 1634 the Dutch showed up and took control of the island. The Spanish gave up without much resistance. The cattle, however, put up a great fight -- but in the end were forced to surrender.</p><p><b>Architecture and the oldest synagogue in the New World </b><br></p><p><a href="http://www.salon.com/2000/02/17/curacao/">Continue Reading...</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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