Donald D. Groff

The lowdown on Lisbon

Our travel expert's tips for Portugal info, spa getaways, great road food and freighter trips.

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For a budget trip to Lisbon, Portugal, can you suggest some sources of
information?

Among sites to tap are the
Rec.Travel.Library site; Virtual
Portugal,
which calls attention to discounts at certain hotels; and the Portuguese
National Tourist Office
site.

You can also turn to the independent traveler guides for budget travel ideas, and
several of them have Web sites that make it easy. Among them are Lonely Planet, Rough Guide Online and Rick Steves’ Spain & Portugal.

Another book for side trips out of Lisbon (or for anyone heading to Portugal)
is “Fielding’s Paradors, Pousadas and Charming Villages of Spain and Portugal,”
by A. Hoyt Hobbs (Fielding Worldwide, 1997).

I’m considering spa vacations in Mexico or the Southwest. Where can I find
comparative descriptions?

A New York company called Spa-Finders publishes an
annual guide that covers hundreds of spa properties, indexed by location and
divided into categories such as fitness and beauty, luxury, weight loss,
medical wellness, new age, mineral springs spas, adventure spas and resorts
with spas.

Spa-Finders’ agents, who book more than 200 spas, are very knowledgeable when
it comes to helping people find what they’re seeking. Even if you don’t use
the booking service, the guide is an excellent, up-to-date resource. The current Spa-Finder directory costs $7.95, postage paid, and can be ordered online or
by calling (800) 255-7727 or (212) 924-6800. A new guide will be available in
early May at the same price.

Another source is Specialty Travel Index, which
lists dozens of spa locations around the world as well as many other kinds of
specialty vacations. An annual subscription, including Spring/Summer and
Fall/Winter issues, costs $10 from Specialty Travel Index, 305 San Anselmo
Ave., San Anselmo, CA 94960.

There are numerous guides to spa vacations, including “Fodor’s Healthy
Escapes” (Fodor’s Travel Publications, 1999) and “Spas & Hot Springs of
Mexico” (Roads Scholar Press, 1998). Another recent guide on a related
theme is” Healing Centers & Retreats: Healthy Getaways for Every Body and
Budget,” by Jenifer Miller (John Muir Publications, 1998).

Is there a guidebook about diners similar to the “Roadfood” book by Jane and
Michael Stern? I love to eat in diners but don’t know where they are when I
travel.

Get a copy of the Sterns’ most recent book of that ilk, “Eat Your Way Across
the USA: 500 Diners, Lobster Shacks, Buffets, Pie Palaces, and Other
All-American Eateries,” which was
published in 1997 by Broadway Books and is widely available. Broadway is scheduled to bring out a new edition of the book in May.

You can find additional road-food commentary from the Sterns in their columns
for Epicurious.

There are several regional guides to diners and related books, such as “Where
the Locals Eat: A Guide to the Best Restaurants in America” (Magellan Press,
1996), which recommends eateries in more than 1,000 cities large and
small. Another is “Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History,” by John
Egerton (University of North Carolina Press, 1993), in which he writes about
Southern food in more than 200 restaurants across the South, noting
specialties and recounting his conversations with restaurant staff and
customers, plus scores of regional recipes.

One of my dreams is to roam the world on a freighter. Could you please furnish information on where to find out about freighter
travel?

A handful of organizations and companies promote — and book — freighter
travel. One is the TravLtip Cruise & Freighter Travel Association, which publishes a useful brochure called “35 most-commonly asked questions about freighter travel.” Check out the TravLtips site, or order a free copy of the brochure from
TravLtips, P.O. Box 580188, Flushing, NY 11358; phone (800) 872-8584.

Freighter World Cruises publishes the
Freighter Space Advisory. It’s located at 180 South Lake Ave., Suite 335,
Pasadena, CA 91101-2655; phone (626) 449-3106.

Another source is the Freighter Travel Club of America, which began in 1958
and which publishes the monthly Freighter Travel News. Besides reviewing freighter trips, it carries advertisements for agencies
specializing in freighter travel. For details, check out the Web site or contact the Freighter Travel Club, 3524 Harts Lake Rd., Roy, WA 98580; phone (360) 458-4178.

The Internet Guide to Freighter Travel gives contact information for other
booking agents and a wide range of other freighter information.

A useful book on the topic is “Travel by Cargo Ship,” by Hugo Verlomme (Cadogan Books,
1995). It’s in bookstores or available through (800) 243-0495.

Is Washington safe?

How to save money at religious retreats; getting insurance for travel abroad.

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I am planning to go to Washington, D.C., for a convention and am worried
about the safety and security — should I be? Also, where can I get
information on events happening while I’m there?

While crime has been an issue in the nation’s capital, much of it is
confined to areas off the tourist and conventioneer path, and you probably
won’t have any problems if you practice the same precautions recommended for
any big city.

In other words, avoid making a target of yourself for those who prey on
tourists. Don’t wander alone into unlit or deserted areas, don’t flash your
cash or display expensive jewelry on the sidewalk and be alert to your
surroundings.

Any convention city has stories about conventioneers who get pickpocketed or
robbed because they staggered out of a club or restaurant for a lone walk
back to their hotel, only to be confronted by an unofficial greeter.

You should also practice simple cautions in your hotel: Don’t open the door
unless you know who’s there, lock your valuables in the hotel safe and keep track
of your key.

Happily, most of your visit will be occupied with business and sightseeing.
On the Washington Convention and Visitors Association Web site, you’ll find plenty of suggestions for things to
see and do in the capital, as well as a calendar of events. The phone number
for the CVA is 202-789-7000.

Another excellent resource is the visitors guide offered on the Washington Post’s Web site. By monitoring the Post, you can also get a feel for
the local crime scene. Except for the occasional big political crime, you’ll
find it doesn’t differ much from other large cities.

I’ve heard about staying at religious retreats — quiet and inexpensive.
Where can I find out about this type of lodging, both in the United States
and abroad?

There are more than 100 monastic guest houses —
low-cost, simple accommodations in monasteries and other religious
institutions — in the United States. One of the most recently published directories is “A Guide to
Monastic Guest Houses,” by Robert Regalbuto, published by Morehouse Publishing Company (third edition,
1998). It’s also available in stores or can be ordered from 800-877-0012.

Among similar guides are:

  • “Sanctuaries the Complete United States: A Guide to Lodgings in Monasteries, Abbeys, and Retreats,” by Jack and Marcia Kelly (Bell Tower, first edition, 1996).

  • “U.S. and World Wide Guide to Retreat Center Guest Houses,” by John and Mary Jensen (CTS
    Publications, 1997).

  • “Overnight or Short Stay at Religious Houses Around the World,” by Vicotria D. Hughes, is a
    directory to more than 2,200 houses in 63 countries. Contact Hugen Press,
    Box 2286, Bloomfield, N.J. 07003.

  • “Bed and Blessings, Italy: A Guide to Convents and Monasteries Available for Overnight Lodging,” by June and Anne Walsh (Paulist Press,
    1999).

Despite their ancient roots, you can find some monastic guest houses on the
Web. A company called DolceVita Travel books a number of them in Italy. The DolceVita Web site has descriptions of what it’s like to stay in such accommodations.

Where can I find names of companies that offer insurance for when you’re
abroad?

The State Department publishes a brochure called “Medical Information for
Americans Traveling Abroad” that includes advice and a listing of insurance
companies. Information on obtaining a brochure is located in the section called “Your trip abroad” under the heading “Health Insurance” on the State Department’s Web site.

Foreign hospitals and doctors often require cash payment for their services,
and several companies offer travel medical-care programs that help ensure you
can find and obtain care quickly when you need it.

Before exploring such programs, travelers should check with their regular
insurance provider to see whether benefits apply to medical expenses when
outside of the country. Even if an insurance company will ultimately cover
medical costs, U.S. coverage probably won’t pay them directly or immediately.

Another source of medical help abroad is the International Association of
Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT). It’s a nonprofit group whose
directory provides help finding doctors who speak either English or French
in addition to their mother tongue and who have had medical training in a Western
country.

Anyone can belong to IAMAT, which does not charge for membership but asks for
a donation. Besides a membership card that entitles the bearer to services
and the fixed IAMAT rates charged by participating physicians, members get
the directory of IAMAT physicians in 125 countries and territories. IAMAT
physicians agree to a set payment schedule for the first visits for members.

Besides the directory, IAMAT offers publications pertaining to malaria and
other diseases and a set of global weather charts. To enroll or for further
information, contact IAMAT, 417 Center St., Lewiston, N.Y., 14092;
716-754-4883.

I once saw an advertisement for a protective hood one can wear in a
fire to prevent smoke inhalation. Can you help me locate this product as a
precaution when staying in hotels?

Magellan’s travel catalog sells a device called the Evac-U8 Smoke Hood
that fits into a 5-by-2-and-a-half-inch canister. If you need to use it, twist
it open, and a transparent, heat-resistant hood pops out that covers your
head and protects your eyes from smoke. The canister becomes the filtering
device through which you breathe, protecting you from toxic gases produced by
fire.

The smoke hood is effective for up to 20 minutes. The device is good for five
years and the manufacturer will replace it if you use it in an emergency.

The price tag is $69. Order it from the Magellan’s Web site, or call 800-962-4943. Net Results Marketing has more info on the hood, as well as references to a book
that promotes it.

You may be able to find other types of hoods at travel and surplus stores
and in magazines that target travelers.

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The best Caribbean bargains

Our expert answers readers' questions on island bargains, London flats, Costa del Sol classics and Florida fortunetellers.

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Could you please point us toward bargains for short Caribbean island
vacations?

Caribbean bargains come and go, depending on the time of year, airline
competition and weather patterns in the United States (warm winter equals more
deals).

The Caribbean has traditionally been uncoordinated when it comes to marketing
itself as a region, but in recent years there have been several efforts by
airlines (mostly American Airlines) to team up with dozens of hotels and
resorts to offer package deals during “slow” periods.

When economizing, consider islands that have easy air access from where you
live (nonstop flights if possible), offer a wide range of lodging and are popular
enough to attract competing tour packagers.

A good source is TourScan,
a travel agency that books vacations in the
Caribbean, Bermuda and the Bahamas. Its search engine lets you designate Caribbean
islands, price range and special interests, then reveals resorts that offer
what you seek. Information is also available by phone at (800) 962-2080.

Also check the sites of different airlines, whose vacation branches often have
specials available: Try American, Continental and Air Jamaica.

While travel Web sites are a great place to go for tracking down Caribbean
packages, don’t overlook the Sunday travel sections of major newspapers, which
often have mass-market deals that can’t be beat. For print advertisements and
online offers alike, act quickly. The best deals
don’t last long.

Among travel sites for locating Caribbean deals are: Expedia, Travelocity.com,
Preview Travel,
TheTrip.com,
Internet Travel Network,
Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel Online and
1Travel.com.

An excellent source for researching islands is a hefty new book, “Caribbean
Vacations: How to Create Your Own Tropical Adventure” (Moon Travel Handbooks,
1998), which is a primer to the various islands’ highlights and lodging
possibilities.

Also check out the Caribbean Tourism Organization site.

I am inquiring about a long-term (three- to six-month) flat rental in London or
environs. It is very difficult to evaluate the info. Can you help?

The most helpful single source you can find is a 96-page booklet
from the British Tourist Authority
called “Apartments in London.”
It lists many properties, including “self-catering apartments,”
in many price ranges, beginning at less than $200 per week.
The booklet also lists U.S. agencies through which you can
find such lodging, as well as names and numbers for London
companies that let apartments. Phone (800) 462-2748 to order
the booklet.

If you locate an apartment through an agency, keep in mind
that the agency is getting a commission that you might be able to
save if you track down a place yourself. For many people, the
commission is well worth the time saved, but you might be able to
find your best deal by contacting the housing manager directly.

You can also find advertisements for London lodging in travel
publications such as International Travel News; you can also phone (800) 366-9192 for a sample issue.

Do you have any info about Costa del Sol, Spain, specifically the area
around Fuengirola? What are the beaches like? Shopping? Food? Other?

Find a wealth of information on the region by going to Andalucia.com, then clicking on “The Costas” — Costa del Sol, Costa
de Almeria, Costa Tropical and Costa de la Luz.

For Costa del Sol you’ll find 13 towns listed with links, including
Fuengirola, whose description begins this way:

“Fuengirola is probably most famous for its five miles of sandy beaches,
flanked by high-rise hotels and residential blocks of apartments with
magnificent views of the Mediterranean and sweeping coastline. A recent
landscaping drive by the local municipality has resulted in a wider promenade
and plenty of palm trees, interspersed with colorful flower beds and
additional seating … The advantage of staying here is that it is a compact
seaside resort and town [with] an excellent selection of supermarkets and
competitively priced shops, as opposed to being restricted to the typical
gift shop strip with its imported shells and T-shirts.”

Also worth checking is the Tourist Office of Spain site.

We are planning a trip to Florida and have heard of a town that is home
to a colony of seers and fortunetellers. Can you tell us where it is?

You’re probably referring to Cassadaga, a small north-central Florida town
founded as a retreat for a religious group called the Spiritualists, who came
from New York state. It was chartered as the Southern Cassadaga Spiritualist
Camp Meeting Association in 1894.

The members of the group practiced Spiritualism, which teaches that there is
life on a spirit plane after death, that there is a brotherhood of man and
that the living can communicate with and receive wisdom from the dead through
trained mediums. Many of the town’s modest houses have signs hanging out front
designating this or that medium or spiritual advisor.

While scores of the residents have links to the Spiritualist group and would
cringe at being referred to as fortunetellers, the town’s reputation has
drawn others who are happy to be called psychics, soothsayers or seers and
operate outside the core group.

Today the camp occupies 55 acres of rural real estate, located between Daytona
Beach and Orlando, about 14 miles north of Sanford. As a tourist attraction,
Cassadaga does not show up on the radar — the state’s official guide doesn’t
mention it, nor do most guidebooks.

Information can be obtained from Cassadaga Spiritualist Camp Bookstore &
Information Center, located in the Davis Building. The address is P.O. Box
319, 1112 Stevens St., Cassadaga, FL 32706, (904) 228-2880. The
information center does not have a Web site, although various Cassadaga sites
can be located with a search.

Most of the readers take appointments, and charge $35 to $60 for sessions that
can last from 30 minutes to an hour. During the camp’s Mediums Nights and
Mediums Days, 15-minute readings are available in the Davis Building at lower
fees. Telephone for dates.

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Is Isla Mujeres safe?

Our expert answers readers' questions about Mexico, artists' colonies, Belize and touring Java by train.

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How safe is travel to Isla Mujeres in Mexico this summer? I’m planning a
trip there with one of my female friends and have heard some of the press
about the dangerous situation in Mexico recently. How much of this is hype? Do
you have any suggestions for a safe trip to that area?

Isla Mujeres, located a short ferry ride from Cancun off the Yucatan
Peninsula, is tame territory. The island is only about five miles long and
the atmosphere is unhurried, uncrowded and, except for the precautions you’d
take anywhere, not targeted by the U.S. State Department’s warnings. Those
warnings focus on border areas and Mexico City.

For a good source on safety issues
in Mexico, visit the site of “Mexico Mike” Nelson and click on “safety tips.” There also are links to other Mexico sites,
including a discussion area for contacting people who already have visited
your destinations.

A good description of Isla Mujeres, complete with maps of the island’s few
roads and main town, can be found in the recent guidebook “Yucatan & Southern
Mexico,” by Nick Rider, a Cadogan guide distributed by Globe Pequot Press (1999).

For really local advice, Mundaca Travel, a travel and real estate agency based
on Isla Mujeres, has a Web site and a toll-free number (from within the United States) for inquiries at (888) 420-3613.

I am a recent graduate with a B.A. in graphic design. I work full-time as
a Web designer, but I find that there is not a very strong artists’ community in
my town (Raleigh, N.C.) — it’s especially hard to find young, intelligent artists who are
motivated and doing a lot of new and different stuff. Anyway, where
in the world are the best artists’ communities? Places to be accepted as an
artist and also surrounded by inspiring people?

Whether you’re looking to relocate or simply vacation, the question of
artistic community is neatly addressed in “The 100 Best Small Art Towns in America: Discover Creative Communities, Fresh Air, and Affordable Living,” by John Villani (John Muir Publications, 3rd edition, 1998). Besides
places you’d expect, such as Santa Fe, N.M.; Key West, Fla.; and Carmel, Calif., the book
spotlights a wide range of towns that loom small on the map but large in the
realm of artistic possibility.

Most of them offer more than just art — they have pleasing settings, fresh air
and outdoor diversions. Durango and Telluride, Colo., are among them, as are
Sun Valley, Idaho; Jackson, Wyo.; Eureka Springs, Ark.; Oxford, Miss.; Athens,
Ga.; Beaufort and Hilton Head, S.C.; and Charlottesville, Va. Many of these towns
have universities nearby, or tourism industries that help support a hearty
arts community.

North Carolina fares well, actually, with four small arts cities: Chapel Hill, Beaufort,
Morehead City and Wilmington.

Most of the chapters are two pages long, with descriptions of local
lifestyles, the arts scene and basics such as art spaces, art events,
hangouts, bookstores and public radio stations. There’s also an “art talk”
interview in which one or more artists speak to the local scene. The book can
be found in stores, on Web booksellers or through Muir at (800) 888-7504.

I have a question about Belize. Where would you spend more time in this
country: Dangriga (near Jaguar Preserve and Cockscomb Park) or Ambergris
Caye (near the town of San Pedro, a beach and snorkeling site)? We are interested in seeing
wildlife and experiencing the local culture. Also, do you have any tips or ideas for what
is exceptional to see or do, or what we need to know about this destination?

Belize is a fascinating place, but don’t get your hopes up for spotting
jaguars. Despite its titillating name, the park’s rangers will be the first to
tell you that the reclusive cats are virtually never seen in the wild. Still,
the country has plenty of wildlife and soothing scenery to make you feel
you’re discovering something new. You might want to make the eco-savvy Belize
Zoo west of Belize City one of your early stops, so you’ll have an idea what
kind of animals you’re looking for on the rest of your trip.

I suggest you try to spend time both on Ambergris Caye — the traditional
Belize holiday, with sand, surf and sunshine — and in the interior, where you
have many options for seeing the real Belize, meeting people and taking in
the preserves and other natural features. Many wilderness lodges have sprung
up, and using them as your base, you can take various trips to explore ruins.
From San Ignacio in the far west, you can take a canoe trip operated by locals
or jeep excursions to waterfalls and verdant valleys. ( You can also take a
day trip to the ruins at Tikal in Guatemala.)

If at all possible, rent your own vehicle for getting around, at least for
part of the trip. Using public transit is tedious and the routes are limited;
in the interior having your own wheels is the way to go.

Two good guidebooks that include itinerary possibilities are “The New Key to
Belize,” by Stacy Ritz (Ulysses Press, 3rd edition, 1998) and “Explore Belize,” by
Harry S. Pariser (Hunter Publishing, 4th edition, 1998).

Also for planning, look at Belize Online. The Belize Tourist Board can be reached by calling (800) 624-0686.

Another way to scout out the local scene before arriving is to look at
newspaper Web sites. On Ambergris Caye, check out the San Pedro Sun.

Other sites for gleaning information prior to your trip are Belize by Natural Light and the Belize Times.

I’d like to see Java by train. Are there any rail tours available?

It is indeed possible to cross Java, Indonesia’s biggest island, by train,
and there are many rich destinations on or near the rails, including the
cultural capital, Jogkakarta. But I expect you would have a hard time
finding a tour company with Java rail packages, at least from the United
States.

The Javanese train standards generally don’t live up to what international
tour operators expect for their package tours, and the recent economic
uncertainties in Indonesia have created a climate that makes international
operators shy away. (The exception might be Dutch operators, who have a
history of putting together tours in this former Dutch colony.)

Still, you could plan your own tour, keeping in mind that you probably won’t
be able to make reservations until arriving in Indonesia. If you scout around
the Web, you may find someone who has already been there and done that.

A good site for tracking down rail trips around the world is TrainWeb.com.

Lonely Planet’s travel survival kit “Java” (first edition, 1995) has good
information on train travel in its “getting around” section, including a map
of rail routes. For online information about Java, including links, go to
Lonely Planet’s Indonesia site.

Another site with good links is the official Tourism Indonesia site.

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