Jenn Shreve
Necessity is the mother of goulash
With the change we earned from recycling, and with recycled ingredients, my mother somehow managed to feed us all.
It has the look and consistency, I imagine, of brains when they hit the pavement: red, wormy, with thick white chunks of this ‘n’ that thrown in for good measure. But the taste? The taste is something touching upon culinary perfection: a sublime medley of carbohydrate, grease, protein, salt and sugary sweetness.
We called it hamburger-potato goulash. These three words — hamburger! potato! goulash! — evoke memories of warm summer evenings clinging to my mother’s legs in the kitchen as she whipped up a batch for the evening meal. When times were good, we got goulash. Goulash memories are happy memories.
A bit of background: If you’ve ever cracked a joke about poor white trash, the butt of your joke was me at the age of 3. My father was your standard shiftless batterer. My mother was too smart to be there but too afraid to leave. I was their straw-thin, hyperactive daughter. My brother was just a baby. We were a family of four, poor as dirt, living the low life in Lubbock, Texas. The year was 1976.
It fell to my mother to make ends meet. She typed term papers for college students, took office jobs now and then. Often, we’d collect cans and bottles off the street, recycle them and buy food and other necessities with the change. On days when the citizens of our flat, dingy town were particularly careless about disposing of their emptied bottles and cans, we might be lucky enough to get hamburger-potato goulash.
When you are poor, money taunts you constantly. It is the ticket to a full stomach, medicine, clean clothes, a good night’s sleep. You see it all around you — in other people’s wallets, in their tailored clothes and fancy cars — yet it’s never quite within your grasp. So there is a certain thrill in outwitting the dollar, in making it stretch beyond its obvious limits.
Meat wasn’t cheap. Even ground beef was pricey by our standards. Yet it was the most important component of the goulash, since it gave us much-needed protein and savory grease fat to slather on our skinny bones. The potatoes were cheap. You could buy a huge sack for the change under your couch and still have money left over to go on the horsy ride outside the Piggly Wiggly. Plentiful, malleable and delicious, potatoes are poverty’s trump card, triumphing over hunger and humorlessness.
And ketchup is one of those things that just seems to come with the fridge. What’s an upstanding blue-collar family without ketchup? It’s a garden without weeds, a sidewalk without cracks, a soup with no moisture. Who knows when we bought it or where the money came from? Ketchup was a ubiquitous presence when I was growing up. We slathered it on hot dogs and burgers, casseroles, even chicken. When we were older, my brother and I would pour it on our arms and lick it off and call it blood.
You fry up the potatoes for poverty, then fry up the beef for blessings. Throw them together, add some salt and a pinch of pepper, then drown the mixture in ketchup — which brings it all together.
Even in better years, when we could afford fried veal cutlets and steak and chicken with barbecue sauce, I would still clamor for goulash. But when I left home, I grew to despise all the things I ate as a child. Buttered hot dog buns stuffed with bacon? Appalling! Iceberg lettuce? God help us. “Velveeta is not a cheese,” I would say, enunciating each word in a high staccato voice, “and Folger’s hardly qualifies as coffee.” Goulash, too, became the object of my derision as I sought to differentiate my life from the one I’d lived growing up. It was not enough to simply no longer care for the cuisine and poverty of my childhood; I wanted to deny that any of it had ever been a part of me.
I developed a taste for wine, ports and, for a time, scotch. I replaced iceberg with braised greens, Velveeta with brie and pecorino. Today, my pantry is stocked with exotic Asian spices and the finest of virgin olive oils. I make apple pie from scratch, pair my meats with my wines and buy locally grown organic whenever possible. I devour Saveur and travel overseas on culinary missions. (I just got back from the birthplace of pesto.)
Yet there are days when the craving for fatty beef, oily potatoes and ketchup overwhelms me with desire and nostalgia. In these disconcerting moments I realize that while every cell in my body has replaced itself in the 10 years since I last ate goulash, I will always be, to some extent, what I ate as a child.
The conversation
There comes a time in every relationship when I've got to talk about my rape.
Honey, we’ve known each other for a while now. I like you a lot, and I think it’s safe to say you feel the same for me. There’s something I want to tell you. I’ve been meaning to for a while, but I’ve been afraid of how you’ll react. But it’s been such a beautiful night. The stars were out, and we had such a good time at dinner. Making love to you tonight, I felt so close to you, like I could tell you anything at all. I trust you. So if you don’t mind, I’ll just be out with it.
Continue Reading CloseSpongeworthiness
The Today Sponge survives the strange saga of its five-year disappearance.
Tensions are mounting in the Today Sponge discussion list hosted on BirthControl.com. “We need a date, that’s all a date a simple date to let us know WHEN?WHEN? WHEN??????????” posts one participant.
“Perhaps I am not the most patient creature in the universe to date, but it seems to me that I have been awaiting the Today Sponge’s return for years. I would appreciate some concrete information. Where is it?” demands another.
Continue Reading CloseThe crime scene
What good is a site that lets Oakland, Calif., residents check on neighborhood crime stats if the people in those neighborhoods aren't online?
The view from my home office in Oakland, Calif., is rather boring: a quiet street, a vacant lot, a few parked cars. Now and then a pint-sized pack of kids goes running by. I spend more time than I care to admit staring out this window — and until Monday, I could confidently say that nothing much happens in this neighborhood of mine.
But on Monday, while pointing and clicking away at the computer next to this window, I learned that more than a crime a day takes place around here. Some 516 crimes occurred in the vicinity between February 1999 and February 2000, including 198 cases of larceny; 95 cases of burglary; nine rapes and two attempted rapes; 59 cases of auto theft; two car-jackings; 35 armed robberies; 11 cases of child abuse; 40 assaults; seven cases of arson; 17 reports of domestic violence and one homicide.
Continue Reading ClosePost non-traumatic stress syndrome?
A "technotherapist" begins a Y2K recovery group, for those suffering the loss of millennial doom.
The millennium anxieties may be over, but the pain goes on. That’s the theory, at least, behind a new Y2K recovery group starting next month in Berkeley, Calif.
“There’s been a certain group of people who I’d say are feeling somewhat depressed. It’s like we have all had a relationship with Y2K for one year — or if we were working with Y2K, for three or five years — and we’re suddenly divorced on 1/1/00,” says Sheryl Coryell, a licensed marriage and family counselor who co-founded the group. “There is loss involved. I’m not saying we wanted something bad to happen, but there is a relationship between you and this thing called Y2K. It artificially got cut off,” she explains.
Continue Reading CloseWhen good governments go bad
These pernicious moments brought to you by your elected leaders. PLUS: Sisterhood pyramid schemes, supermarket warfare and a man and his hooptie.
The alternative press exists in part to present a fiercer side of journalism, especially when it comes to unveiling the nefarious activities of our elected officials. While their constant harping on the abuses of government at times can grow tiresome and clichid as a hippie drum circle, these lefty muckrakers still serve a purpose when it comes to exposing political rot.
Last week I was reminded of this by Salon’s story about how the U.S. government paid networks to slip anti-drug messages into their scripts. As much as I’d like to see an episode of “Friends” where Joey gets addicted to crack and sodomizes all his roommates, I find abhorrent the idea that our elected officials will spare no expense and violate any law or civil right in the name of wiping out drugs — an effort that, so far, has been 100 percent ineffective.
Continue Reading ClosePage 1 of 15 in Jenn Shreve