Martha Stewart

Warped, battered, torn and stained

Salon salutes the cookbooks real cooks use every day.

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Warped, battered, torn and stained

Some cookbooks are heavy with sumptuous, full-color photographs of dishes that look better than anything you’ll ever make; call them culinary porn, less likely to prompt you to pick up a whisk than they are to send you to the telephone in search of a restaurant reservation. Others, like the redoubtable “Joy of Cooking,” are reference works that come in handy when you forget what temperature to set the oven at when roasting a potato, or you’re wondering what the heck marshmallows are made from, or you want to cop a weird thrill from studying the instructions on how to clean a squirrel. Still others are filled with recipes so dauntingly complex and expensive that they’re more theories about cooking than viable instructions — sort of the way literary theory isn’t actual literature.

Then there is that volume, the one streaked with pepperonata sauce, its pages mangled and steamed into perpetual ripples from everyday use until it’s almost twice as thick as it was on the day you first opened it. Most cooks have a book like this, a faithful friend that has carried them through everything from dinner parties to seduction suppers to pasta meals whipped up for solitary delectation at the end of a long day. These books are our Virgils, our Obi-Wan Kenobis of the kitchen. They teach us, gradually, to trust ourselves with a skillet and maybe even a potato ricer. They’ve made cooks out of us, and we celebrate them here.

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Marcella’s Italian Kitchen
By Marcella Hazan
Knopf, 276 pages

Who wouldn’t be a little bit intimidated by Marcella Hazan’s revulsion at “the pallor of deep-freeze counters, those cemeteries of food, whose produce is sealed up in waxed boxes marked, like some tombstones, with photographs of the departed”? By her dismay at the “undiscriminating condemnation” of that “vital substance,” salt? (“When I try something new, even after I have seasoned it to my satisfaction, I sprinkle a touch more salt on a separate biteful.”) By her wholesale rejection of cold pasta? (“If I had invented pasta salads I would hide.”) By the exuberance of her disdain for innocent cinnamon? (“I loathe cinnamon, so the less said about that the better.”)

For more than 25 years now Marcella Hazan has been goading, browbeating, hectoring, shaming and, not incidentally, inspiring her readers into preparing Italian cuisine the proper way, which is to say, according to the traditional methods of the Italian kitchen. I use all five of her books all the time, but my favorite is her third, “Marcella’s Italian Kitchen,” in which she starts to break away from the wrist-slapping classicism of her groundbreaking early volumes, “The Classic Italian Cook Book” and “More Classic Italian Cooking,” and lets her imagination play a little.

The result is such inspirations as her shells with green, red and yellow peppers and cream (the sweetness of the peppers, the sweetness of the cream); her sautied veal chops with mushrooms and white wine (the fresh button mushrooms taking on the funkiness of the dried porcinis); and, on an uncharacteristically weird note, her tonnarelli with cantaloupe (I wouldn’t believe it, either, if I hadn’t served it more than once to incredulous guests). Her eggless fig ice cream — just figs, sugar, milk and water, processed and then frozen — says all the good things there are to say about the late summer.

Marcella Hazan’s impatient and judgmental tone often makes her seem like a pain. (She is one hero I’ve never wanted to meet.) But her recipes are so beautiful and so reliable and, most of the time, so brilliantly simple that what can you do but venerate her and love her in spite of herself?

– Craig Seligman

Buy “Marcella’s Italian Kitchen” at B&N.com

The Martha Stewart Cookbook: Collected Recipes for Every Day
By Martha Stewart
Random House, 620 pages

Until I picked up a dogeared copy of “The Martha Stewart Cookbook” at a
San Francisco used book store last year, my kitchen was a
post-collegiate, taste-bud depriving packaged pasta wasteland. But with
a little help from Martha, the kitchen in my historic Washington
apartment is turning into a place worthy of its elegant
architectural setting. My pantry is stocked with fresh herbs and greens, and
something else is happening that would both please and shock my parents
and friends — my smoke alarm has been amazingly quiet in recent months.
I’m no Alice Waters, but I don’t think my cooking would make her wince.

After a long day of editing stories on the latest political scandals,
plane crashes and high school shootings at Salon.com’s Washington
bureau, preparing one of Martha’s appetizers, side dishes or, time
permitting, main courses, can be as therapeutic as aromatherapy or a
shiatsu massage. It’s easy not to dwell on George W. Bush’s foreign
policy stumblings or what Cassie Bernall may or may not have said when
you’re salivating over sliced pears slathered in gorgonzola or olive
oil-bathed sliced tomatoes with mozzarella and basil. Granted, these
aren’t very elaborate dishes, but they’re simple, quick and tummy-pleasing.
And I would never think to make these things on my own. Enter
Martha.

Why would I eschew more traditional books directed at kitchen newbies
like me who can’t tell their measuring spoons from their measuring cups?
I grew up in two worlds in Napa Valley, where my eating habits
were influenced by the comfort foods dished up by my parents and the
experimental California cuisine of the local restaurants where I spent
my weekends as a busboy. (It was an unusual contrast for a teen — New
England pot roast at home and, occasionally, foie gras at work.) As I
set out to cook my own meals, I was looking for a cookbook that would
both instruct me on the nuances of baking a chicken and coach me in
making some of the froufrou European and Asian peasant foods that have
become my guilty pleasures.

Martha’s recipes for polenta with mascarpone and pesto — a dish I often
top with a breast of chicken or turkey — and risotto with porcini
mushrooms are always reliable. And her recipe for green enchiladas
competes favorably with the best enchiladas I’ve ever had served to me
from the choicest kitchens in Guadalajara and Mexico City.

And here’s the best kept secret about “The Martha Stewart Cookbook”:
Martha’s not known for her minimalism, but in fact, her cookbook is
filled with spare recipes that are fast and easy to prepare, perfect for
the most demanding schedule. And where else are you going to find
recipes for simple and erotically charged desserts that take only five
minutes to prepare, like pomegranate seeds (fruity salmon roe for
vegetarians) or blood oranges bathed in Grand Marnier?

– Daryl Lindsey

Buy “The Martha Stewart Cookbook” at B&N.com

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Pasta Fresca
By Viana La Place and Evan Kleiman
William Morrow & Co., 270 pages

I’ve always thought the most amazing first line of any book is “You know
more than you think,” from Dr. Spock’s “Baby and Child Care.” But a
couple of sentences from the beginning of Viana La Place and Evan
Kleiman’s “Pasta Fresca” –”The truth is that both fresh pasta and dried
pasta are equally good … Neither is superior to the other” — had the
effect on me, as a beginning cook, that Dr. Spock must have on new
parents.

To someone just starting to pay attention to what he might do in the
kitchen, afraid of doing the wrong thing or of choosing “inferior”
ingredients, those sentences were reassuring, and freeing. “Pasta
Fresca” was the first cookbook I turned to when I wanted to do something
more than boil some spaghetti, heat some sauce and dump ‘em together.
The simplicity of the recipes and the implicit confidence La Place and
Kleiman show in their readers were a great confidence booster. Imagine
going from heated Ragu to linguine all’agnello (that’s linguine with
lamb sauce, don’t you know) — and not having it look like muck. The
great lesson of cooking is one you never stop learning: The ability to
do the basics well is not just the foundation of cooking but, in some
ways, its height. It’s real praise to say La Place and Kleiman know how
to keep it simple.

– Charles Taylor

Buy “Pasta Fresca” at B&N.com

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Sundays at Moosewood
By the Moosewood Collective
Fireside, 733 pages

I baked coconut bread last week — and though I haven’t baked
anything in more than a year, my cookbook peeled right open to
the page; a decade of flour and coconut milk have stiffened it for easy
reference. The recipe is simple — just nine ingredients, plus the
optional raisins — and so I pounded the dough automatically, pressing
it against the walls of the same red mixing bowl I’ve used for more than
a decade, my fingers working from memory.

For seven years, “Sundays at Moosewood” was the only volume in my
kitchen. Its recipes, like the one for coconut bread, have become a part
of me: Friends now ask about “that apricot chutney you make” and “that
cornbread you do”; they think these are mine, and I don’t disabuse them.
I eventually expanded my cookbook collection, but whenever I need to add
something to a menu, or to find a use for some new vegetable that turned
up in the market, “Sundays” is still the first place I look. (It’s
become a family resource, too — at one point six years ago, the four
members of my family actually owned four and a half copies, including
one I had joint custody of in Budapest.)

Put together by the collective that runs the Ithaca, N.Y., Moosewood
Restaurant, “Sundays” has a vaguely political (and distinctly lefty)
approach to cooking: It encourages improvisation, de-emphasizes
presentation, fosters cross-cultural exchange. Each chapter is defined
by a geographic region (“Provence,” “Japan,” “Armenia and the Middle
East”). Though the book doesn’t presume to impose meal plans, each
chapter includes appetizers and entrees, and usually soups and sweets.
I’ve mixed the West African groundnut stew with the “jajoukh,” a
cucumber and yogurt dip; paired the Trinidad mango salsa with a
cornbread recipe from the American South. Nobody seems to complain. I’m
guessing the folks at Moosewood wouldn’t mind either.

– Rachel Elson

Buy “Sundays at Moosewood” at B&N.com

The Silver Palate Cookbook
By Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso
Workman Publishing, 384 pages

For years, my fridge contained exactly three staples: a six pack, cat
food and a giant tub of low-fat margarine. But once I moved in with my
spouse, a guy who actually knew the proper way to season a chicken and
how long to boil a potato, I felt the need to get up to speed. A friend
who managed a Williams-Sonoma shop offered two simple words of advice
–”Silver Palate” — and I never looked back. With its folksy
illustrations and simple, friendly instructions, the seminal volume from
caterers-turned-authors Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins had me whipping up
fruits de mer pasta and carpetbaggers steak like a champ in no time.

Today, the pages in my 9-year-old copy of “The New Basics” are
obscured in some parts with thick white smudges of dough, rendered
translucent in others by big dollops of olive oil and butter. Mostly,
however, they’re brown. Depending on what section of the book I’m
perusing, the brown may be a light, basalmic vinegar hazel, a deep soy
sauce auburn, a creamy biscuit gravy chestnut or an unmistakable dark
chocolate mahogany. Even the parts of the book that aren’t stained have
the weather-beaten look of pages that have sopped up more than their
share of milk, water, white wine and chicken broth. In short, it’s all
shot to hell.

While it’s admittedly disgusting, the condition of my cookbook is also
pretty handy — the encrusted, wrinkly pages with the recipes for salmon
croquettes and Grandma Clark’s soda bread practically open themselves
when I need them. And they remind me that even though over time I’ve
managed to become a pretty decent chef, I’m still also the same slob my
beloved first fell in love with all those years ago.

– Mary Elizabeth Williams

Buy “The Silver Palate Cookbook” at B&N.com

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Fields of Greens: New Vegetarian Recipes from the Celebrated Greens Restaurant
By Annie Somerville
Bantam, Doubleday, Dell, 437 pages

I’m not a vegetarian, but too many salmonella warnings have left me with
an abiding horror of raw meat, especially chicken, which in its uncooked
form reminds me of the monsters that come slithering up the cellar steps
at the end of H.P. Lovecraft stories. (Besides, I’m not up for the hassles of
cleaning up after it — you practically have to don a decontamination
suit and spray down your kitchen with liquid nitrogen.)

So vegetables it is, and Deborah Madison’s “The Greens Cookbook” it was,
for a year or two, until I got tired of recipes that, even if they
turned mere produce into ambrosia, all seemed to take three hours to
prepare. Then along came Annie Somerville’s “Fields of Greens.”
(Somerville was, like Madison, a chef at the famous San Francisco
vegetarian restaurant.) Somerville has Madison’s sorceror’s touch, an
uncanny knowledge of which little additional ingredients — diced
olives, lemon zest, saffron, chive blossoms — will punch a pleasant
vegetable pasta dish into indisputable scrumptiousness. One of the
recipes here can transform stolid, sulfury broccoli into something
downright yummy (it’s the broccoli and roasted red pepper linguine) and
another manages, through the heroic deployment of a whole head of
roasted garlic, to make lentil soup taste like something other than
clay. But Somerville’s recipes, with some exceptions, are less
time-consuming and fussily demanding than Madison’s.

Somerville has never written another cookbook, and when ordering a copy
of “Field of Greens” off the Web for some friends, I noticed several
forlorn reader reviews indicating that I’m not the only one dismayed by
this. A comeback is definitely in order.

– Laura Miller

Buy “Fields of Greens” at B&N.com

Live from Piers Morgan’s disastrous Twitter show

Tweeting makes for a great distraction during CNN's social network-inspired program. I should know: I was there

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Live from Piers Morgan's disastrous Twitter showTwit.

If you missed Piers Morgan’s show last night about Twitter, don’t worry, so did I. And I happened to be sitting in the audience. You see, before the show we were told that, in addition to such guests as Martha Stewart, Alyssa Milano, Twitter founders Jack Dorsey and Biz Stone, Newark Mayor Cory Booker, and Twitter entrepreneur and wine enthusiast Gary Vaynerchuk, we the audience would also be encouraged to tweet during the show.

Which meant, naturally, that I only caught about five minutes of looking at the actual stage, and spent the rest of the time tweeting about how ridiculous this entire concept was. Apparently I didn’t miss much, either: Piers Morgan, in his typical celebrity ass-kissing way, spent the entire hour talking about how he was the inspiration for Charlie Sheen getting on Twitter (as if that’s a positive thing?); for getting Martha Stewart to have her fans tweet her something about pierogis live on the air (technology!) while she spoke about the proper etiquette for shouting out into the Twittersphere (Martha uses Twitter the way a lot of celebrities do: not to interact with her fans but as a sort of message board for her thoughts of the day); and for talking to Alyssa Milano in a fascinating story about why she decided to tell everyone the sex of her baby on Twitter.

About five minutes of the show was dedicated to discussing what the application was doing internationally, and zero minutes were spent asking Biz or Jack anything of interest, like why their co-founder Evan Williams wasn’t even mentioned during the entire hour. (My theory is that Ev is poised to become the next Eduardo Saverin of the tech world.)

At one point, Piers declared proudly to Alyssa, “We’re all Twits!” and continually referenced how Biz and Jack’s original idea was to have Twitter used for bursts of short, inconsequential ideas. Only two people managed to dispute that claim: Cory Booker (who used Twitter to help his city during the snowstorms this winter, and who joked off-camera that he was planning a flash-mob over to Mayor Bloomberg’s place after the show), and Gary Vaynerchuk, who frankly called Martha out on her b.s.

“Twitter is about listening,” not talking, said Gary, who used Twitter to help launch both his wine business on a grand scale, as well as his own Web show, “Wine Library TV.” Piers, who wasn’t really listening (you ever notice how the man never asks any follow-up questions?), turned to Biz and Jack and asked if they were worried that celebrities revealed too much about themselves on Twitter. If Biz and Jack had any concerns that night, creating the application that let us know Alyssa Milano will be having a baby boy was not one of them.

Piers spent most of the commercial breaks tweeting on his phone, not looking up when guests sat down at the table. I couldn’t really blame him: I was doing the same thing.

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Drew Grant is a staff writer for Salon. Follow her on Twitter at @videodrew.

Martha Stewart’s frenemy tells all

The domestic icon's ex-BFF pens a book about her bullying and man troubles, but it's the author who gets skewered

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Martha Stewart's frenemy tells all

Martha Stewart may be one of the most compelling and evocative brands of the last few decades. She created a hunger in a whole generation of women, a hunger for a pristine, well-organized, hopelessly tasteful but still down-to-earth home, a sunny, immaculate place filled with fresh tulips and big bowls of sea glass and refinished vintage furniture and bright shades of robin’s egg blue splashed across spotless walls, a place where elaborate brunches are held, at which attractive professionals give eloquent toasts, and beautiful children scamper about noiselessly, dressed in shades of iris and ultra blue that match the table linens.

With a brand this perfect – a brand that, by merely existing, casts a pall over our own inferior, disheveled, dog-hair-covered lives – it’s only natural that Martha Stewart (the woman) would pay dearly for the hunger that Martha Stewart (the brand) created in us.

The next part was predictable enough: Martha herself was far from perfect, the books and magazine articles breathlessly reported. She was impatient, and bossy, and exacting, and cold. She sometimes experienced – gasp – uncontrollable emotions! This made her quite different from most women (who are in total control of their emotions at all times) and different from most businessmen (who are never arrogant or demanding). Yes, Martha was a woman who planted bulbs and winterized her garden and threw gorgeous weddings and started her own business then developed it into a multimedia empire, but she yelled at people sometimes, and that wasn’t a good thing.

But then Martha allegedly dumped some stock she was holding from her friend’s company, because she allegedly found out that it was about to tank. The SEC, which spent an entire decade turning a blind eye to this sort of thing, decided to make a big show of prosecuting Martha Stewart and sending her to jail (at the exact point when they might’ve exerted a little more energy on, say, regulating credit default swaps or one of the other absurdities that led to the world economy imploding before our eyes).

So Martha did some hard time, we felt sorry for her, and then she made a comeback, which is by now a crucial part of any enduring brand’s narrative arc. Sadly, though, the fortunes and reputations of a few other individuals were harmed in the storm of Martha’s trial, and for mere mortals who don’t happen to be internationally known branded entities, making a comeback isn’t quite as easy as it is for Martha.

And so, we become witness to yet another tell-all book, this one by Martha’s former best friend and confidante, Mariana Pasternak. If, at this late date, you still wonder what Martha Stewart is really like, the 395-page tome “The Best of Friends” will cure you of that affliction henceforth. In it, Pasternak paints an excruciatingly detailed portrait of the countless magical moments that she and Martha shared as close friends, moments inevitably sullied in one way or another by Martha’s insensitivity or insecure maneuvering or controlling behaviors. None of this is at all surprising since Martha’s alleged flaws were painstakingly detailed in Christopher Byron’s unauthorized biography “Martha Inc.: The Incredible Story of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia” (and elsewhere). We know how Martha allegedly belittled her husband, or how she allegedly demanded way too much of everyone around her. Yes, writers and gossip hounds have knocked themselves out to demonstrate to us, time and again, that far from the glossy, Cheshire-cat-smiling image of domestic perfection, Martha is a domineering macho woman who tramples willy-nilly over the soft underbellies of every last colleague and friend she knows with her big old hobnailed gardening boots. Always on her way to some TV taping or big-named cocktail party, according to these accounts, Martha is preoccupied and careless and she hurts people using words.

Pasternak is made “uncomfortable” or hurt by Martha again and again over the course of their friendship, but missing from her tome are the carefully reconstructed moments where she actually confronts Martha about her insensitivity, and demands better treatment. No, instead Pasternak focuses the full force of her steel-trap mind to conjure up this or that glorious night spent wining and dining with Martha, the “antique English porcelain plates” they ate from, the “deep, linen-upholstered” chairs they sunk into, the marvelous paintings that hung on the walls, the views of the sound or the ocean they enjoyed, the wonderful petunias or the bamboo that was blossoming fragrantly that afternoon. Day after day, night after night, we’re treated to the wonder of Marthaland, only to have Martha herself come in and spoil everything. Pasternak confides in Martha that her marriage is falling apart, and Martha announces it triumphantly to a whole roomful of people, saying “Brava for Mariana!” Pasternak is “flushed and flustered” and “baffled” that Martha would turn her “agony into a stage-worthy scene from the theater of the absurd.” Another time, Martha makes a speech and “for the first time in our friendship, she publicly acknowledged my role in her life” by thanking Pasternak, by then a realtor, for helping her find her latest property. “Martha did not say I never took a commission, but the simple thank you, for me, was more than enough, and it brought tears to my eyes.”

See how our intrepid author rises above petty grievances? A simple thank you was more than enough. But these moments of teary-eyed gratitude mixed with resentment are only the tip of the iceberg, once we come to the long list of fabulous trips that Martha and the author take together, trips with the author’s two daughters whom Martha has come to refer to as her goddaughters. (They aren’t her goddaughters, mind you, but Pasternak quite graciously allows Martha to bask in the illusion that they are – just one of many, many tender mercies Pasternak bestows on poor, pathetic, needy Martha out of the pureness of her heart.) Yes, Martha and the author and the girls travel to the Galapagos Islands and to Egypt and to Peru and to other places, and each trip is laid out in detail, the glamour and luxury but also the moments when Martha became overbearing or reckless, suggesting some dangerous excursion (taking a little boat down the Nile, horseback riding in Peru without helmets, arguing with a taxi driver so vehemently that he lets them off in the middle of the desert). Adding insult to injury, Martha covers all expenses and sends a bill to Pasternak after each trip (as agreed upon, but the various methods for splitting the bill and adding interest are questionable as far as the author is concerned). Couldn’t she simply tell Martha she’d like to split the bill differently – or better yet, couldn’t she simply say no to the next lavish trip? No, because Pasternak would never, ever deny her two daughters such a wonderful opportunity to see Egypt or the Galapagos. So “I paid Martha the amount I was told, grateful for the opportunity to have given my family such an unforgettable voyage.” Here we are once again: Angry, but immensely grateful. Who is the mixed-up woman in this picture?

Even in the wake of Martha’s unexpectedly getting left by her husband, Andy, for a younger woman, Pasternak is less than forgiving. In tears, Martha confides that Andy once had an affair with Erica Jong, a confession that makes Pasternak “profoundly uncomfortable”: “I had the queasy feeling that Martha was telling me this to manipulate my feelings for a man she knew I had loved.” Indeed, how insensitive of Martha, not to respect Pasternak’s feelings for Martha’s ex-husband! Yes, it seems that Martha’s most vulnerable admonition yet “had a sort of surgical precision to it” and was less a reflection of Martha’s considerable grief than a method of manipulating Pasternak.

As if that weren’t enough, Martha ruins Pasternak’s hopes for true love with a suitor, who wants to sleep with Pasternak under Martha’s roof, but Pasternak says no, reasoning that it would be a rude way for Martha to find out about their interest in each other, considering that Martha used to be interested in the man herself. Even though Martha never knows about it or says a word to Pasternak, Pasternak’s choice not to go for it is all Martha’s fault. “By the time I realized I was permitting her to bully me yet again into surrendering my chance at personal happiness, the man I wished to be with was on his way out of my life.”

Not surprisingly, Martha also had a major hand in unraveling the author’s marriage. “Sometimes I wondered if, had he been less critical of Martha, I would have felt better about our marriage. At first I thought yes, but then, as time wore on, the answer came: No, I would not. By belittling Martha, my husband had unwrapped a new part of himself, and I didn’t like what I saw.”

We don’t like what we’re seeing either. By belittling Martha, Pasternak unwraps a new part of herself on every few pages. While Martha herself comes across as the same sharp-minded, ambitious, self-serving woman with a good sense of humor and a very bad sense of other people’s emotional experiences, Pasternak, on the other hand, is the ultimate Nightmare Lady Friend: She passively plays along with anything Martha wants, admitting that she’s flattered that Martha Stewart, “one of the Western world’s biggest stars,” is “crying on my shoulder.” She accepts invitations to fabulous parties and goes on more great trips and sips champagne and savors big bowls of Ossetra caviar and then, when Martha is brought to trial and Pasternak is investigated and asked to testify, she distances herself from Martha but her life still crumbles around her. Most of Pasternak’s real estate clients abandon her, people whisper about her on the street, and she forecloses on her house.

Unfortunately, by the time we get to the big trial, Martha isn’t exactly smelling like a climbing tea rose, but Pasternak has proven herself so exasperatingly passive and so disloyal to her old friend by laying out the humiliating details of Martha’s impulsive flings and “stalker” behavior, using each incidence to paint Martha as weak, weak, weak – you know, in the ways that pretty much every single, slightly neurotic, emotional woman on the entire planet is weak at one point or another – that we’re ready for Martha to not just betray Pasternak, but leave her in the dust, taking all of those powerful friends and big names and luxury trips and roasted quail that Pasternak loves so dearly along with her.

Ultimately, it’s the chaos surrounding Martha’s trial and the damage it does to Pasternak’s reputation that brings Pasternak down, not Martha herself, and Pasternak is the one who stops returning calls before the trial even begins, thereby finally signaling all of the anger and resentment that was welling up over the years, but that was so terribly inconvenient to confront or address as long as the big names were mingling and the Cristal was flowing.

One can imagine that it was Martha’s comeback and return to glory as a more humble, more self-deprecating version of her old brand that finally sent Pasternak over the edge and into the arms of a drooling book publisher. Sadly for Pasternak, her tales of Martha’s cheapness, manipulations and naive mooning over men are liable to flesh out a character study of a woman whom the public long ago judged as lovable in spite of great flaws. Her brand revived, her Cheshire smile employed while joking about baking “green” brownies with Snoop Dogg, Martha Stewart the woman and Martha Stewart the brand may just be unsinkable.

In the end, then, it’s Pasternak who elicits our sympathy the most. If she’d never befriended Martha and been drawn into a world that ultimately revealed itself to be Martha’s world, not hers, she might never have stooped to this, writing a book filled with arrows that bounce off Martha’s steely branded exterior and careen back toward the author, who is, after all, not a brand, just a vulnerable (and apparently very angry) human being. 

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Heather Havrilesky is Salon's TV critic and author of the rabbit blog. Her memoir, "Disaster Preparedness," published in 2010.

Martha Stewart works the pole

A domestic queen goes exotic dancer

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Maybe it’s just a result of maturing into the “don’t give a damn” years, maybe it’s lessons learned from that time in jail, but Martha Stewart gets funnier and freakier.

Last month, she used Snoop Dogg’s appearance in a brownie-baking segment as an excuse to not so subtly allude to the dessert’s popularity among stoners; now, she’s breaking out her Champagne Room moves.

 Welcoming S-Factor creator Sheila Kelley, one of the first and foremost ladies of the “strippercizing” field, Martha gamely rolled her shoulders, swiveled her hips, and yes, did a little swing around the pole before announcing, “I want to do the upside down things.” 

While it’s true her moves yesterday won’t get her a job at Scores any time soon, it’s hard not to love a 68-year-old woman who heads a media empire, knows how to sew her own clothes, can bake an amazing cobbler, and isn’t afraid to learn how to give a lap dance on national television. Vowing to go to Kelley’s New York City S-Factor studio next week for a full lesson, she said, “Why shouldn’t we all do that? Right?” Why not, indeed, gutsy lady. Or as Martha would say, perfect.

 

 

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Mary Elizabeth Williams

Mary Elizabeth Williams is a staff writer for Salon and the author of "Gimme Shelter: My Three Years Searching for the American Dream." Follow her on Twitter: @embeedub.

Martha and Snoop get baked

Wherein the Dogg explains the missing ingredient in Stewart's brownies. Happy holidizzle!

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Martha and Snoop get bakedSnoop Dogg and Martha Stewart

If you’re looking for two one-of-a-kind entertainers and all-around entrepreneurs, individuals who have put their unique stamp on American culture while keeping their tongues firmly in their cheeks, you’d be hard pressed to do better than Martha Stewart and Snoop Dogg. They’ve both had their own television shows. They’re both on Twitter. One is known as a gangsta, and one has done time on the inside.

So what better gift could we, the pop culture adoring public, receive this holiday season than an appearance by Mr. Gin and Juice on the very special cookie episode of “The Martha Stewart Show”?

On Friday, the two icons bantered about their respective side projects, with Martha expressing her admiration for Snoop’s iPhone apps and his new, seriously genius GPS Navigation system. But what they were really there to do was get their Doggystle bake on.

Mixing up a bowl of cocoa goodness, it didn’t take long for Snoop to muse that “We’re missing the most important part of the brownies.” Martha, not missing a beat, delightedly goaded him, “Which is? Which is? Which is?” Snoop then elaborated, “No sticks, no seeds, no stems,” prompting Martha to explain, “He wants green brownies.” And there was a gleam in that woman’s eye that told us, “I really hope he’s holding.” (Martha experts will recall a similar schtick during last summer’s “Pot Show” with Jimmy Fallon.)

And then do you know what they did? They made some bomb-ass green brownies, bitch! Okay, so Martha’s were only verdant by virtue of the festive sprinkles strewn atop. Still, we totally think Martha’s a bit of a head, which makes us want her to be the one to show us how to make the perfect skull bong.

Snoop, while refusing Martha’s sincere entreaties to rap for her, did go a little folk when he sang “He’s got the whole bowl in his hands.” And after a discussion of masculine pursuits, Martha’s parting words of the segment were a fond bit of advice. “All of you women out there,” she said, “build your man a man cave, and he’ll be just like Snoop Dogg.”


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Mary Elizabeth Williams

Mary Elizabeth Williams is a staff writer for Salon and the author of "Gimme Shelter: My Three Years Searching for the American Dream." Follow her on Twitter: @embeedub.

Cramer talks down Stewart feud

The "Mad Money" host says he idolizes Jon Stewart; too bad he misses the point of "The Daily Show," which he's appearing on Thursday night.

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Sadly, when Jim Cramer and Jon Stewart finally meet face-to-face on “The Daily Show” tonight, the two are unlikely to produce the shootout we’ve all been hoping for.

Stewart himself said as much on his show last night, and now Cramer is throwing water on the fire too. The CNBC star, apparently trying to soften his image, went on “The Martha Stewart Show” this morning and admitted that Stewart has gotten the better of him so far. “My kids only know I have a show ‘cause Jon Stewart’s been skewering me,” the “Mad Money” host said.

Cramer’s never hesitated to show emotion before, but on Thursday, he showed a new, vulnerable side. “I’m a little nervous. How bad is it gonna be? Is he gonna kill me?” Cramer said. “You should be nervous,” (Martha) Stewart said. “He’s fast as lightning!”

“I’m not, I’m slow as molasses,” Cramer replied. Considering that the entire conceit of “Mad Money” is that Cramer is manic — “mad,” if you will — this new, self-deprecating incarnation of the man seems pretty implausible.

The reason Cramer sounds so wounded? Well, he says, Jon Stewart is a role model for him:

The reason why it’s been so hard for me, the attacks, is that early on I patterned my show off of his, which is that you can do an entertainment business show. And then suddenly to be attacked by a guy that’s your idol makes it difficult.

I can’t make up my mind whether this is laughable or tragic. The main lesson of “The Daily Show,” it seems to me, is that nothing is quite so funny as laughing through our tears.  Stewart’s rise is due, in large part, to his brutal honesty. (See, for example, his well-known interview with prominent Iraq War booster Douglas Feith.) If Cramer really does imagine himself Stewart’s student, then he’s missed the point of his idol’s work. Just this week, he dismissed the “Daily Show” anchor as a mere “comedian” who hosts “a variety show.”

Moreover, if “The Daily Show” works because it finds entertainment value in setting the record straight, then, as I wrote earlier this week, “Mad Money” functions in precisely the opposite fashion. Cramer himself has said that, for the sake of being entertaining (that is, watchable, rather than cripplingly depressing), he likes to stress positive financial news — reality be damned.

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Gabriel Winant is a graduate student in American history at Yale.

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