Mary Roach
Bug heads, rat hairs — bon appitit
Do you know how many insect parts are allowed in your Fig Newton?
If you made Fig Newtons for a living and you wanted to know how many insects could get into your Newtons without your getting into hot water with the FDA, you could look it up on the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s Food Defect Action Levels Web site. Here you would learn that fig paste is allowed to have up to 13 insect heads per 100 grams.
You would then become sidetracked and further learn that approximately four rodent hairs are allowed in a jar of peanut butter, that an average of 60 thrips are allowed in 100 grams of frozen broccoli, that 10 grams of hops are allowed to contain 2,500 aphids and that 5 milligrams of rat excreta in a pound of sesame seeds is A-OK with the FDA.
What you would not learn is why the FDA might put a limit on insects’ heads and not other parts of their anatomy, what rat excreta tastes like and what sort of person takes a job that entails searching for insect heads in fig cookie innards. To find these things out, you would have to pay a visit to one of the FDA’s regional filth labs. You would, but now you don’t have to because I’m doing it for you.
I have arranged to meet with an entomologist named Dana Ludwig, who works in the FDA’s Alameda, Calif., Filth Lab, which analyzes thousands of samples of foods, most imported from the Pacific Rim, each year. In a moment of social ineptitude, I have asked Ludwig if the ludwig is a relative of the earwig. Straight off the bat, I have my foot in my mouth. I should be used to having feet in my mouth, for humans are eating insect parts all the time without knowing it.
According to an Ohio State University Extension fact sheet, most Americans unintentionally swallow 1 to 2 pounds of insects and insect pieces each year. Insects are very lightweight. If you think about how many of them it would take to make 2 pounds (and I advise you not to), you will begin to appreciate the somewhat shocking dimensions of our entomophagous intake.
The Alameda Filth Lab employs several analytical entomologists. Ludwig refers to them collectively as “filth people.” Just inside the lab doorway, we stop to go over our clothing with a lint roller. A sign on the wall says, “Pet-Hair Free Zone.” Ludwig is looking at my shirt. The look says that there’s a name for me too, somewhere in the neighborhood of “filth person.”
“There’s a lot of hair on your shirt,” says Ludwig as nicely as she can. The problem turns out to be my pet angora sweater. Ludwig covers me up with a lab coat. If my sweater were to shed into a food sample, some hapless Third World manufacturer might be cited for an infestation of lavender angora rabbits.
For demonstration purposes, Ludwig has set aside a bag of imported black bean wafers. Earlier in the morning, she measured out a sample of the wafers and put them in a beaker with boiling hydrochloric acid. Two hours later, the acid has digested the black bean wafer ingredients, leaving nothing solid behind but “the filth.” Ludwig sieves the liquid to isolate the filth, which looks but probably does not taste like a teaspoon of melted coffee ice cream. She then scrapes it onto a “filth plate,” which she slides under her microscope.
Ludwig shows me the head of a book louse, a mite fragment, a confused flour beetle underwing fragment, assorted hairs and an ant head. The magnified ant head is beautiful, a fragment of translucent amber, like what’s left on your tongue in the morning when you fall asleep with a Ricola in your mouth. I ask Ludwig why there are so many more heads than bodies. I am trying to imagine the scenario that would result in an ant’s head winding up in the flour sack while the rest of its body continues along its merry way. I am one confused flour beetle.
Ludwig explains that insects’ “head capsules” are often more durable than their bodies. “This is especially common with larvae and caterpillars, where the body parts are soft and really get messed up” in the milling process. In other words, the bodies are in the food too, they’re just not countable.
What do these insects that we are eating every day taste like? FDA entomologist Steve Anghold told me that if you have enough aphids ground up in a batch of hops, it might conceivably make the beer taste sweeter, because aphids secrete a sweet fluid. In fact, he went on to say, ants “herd aphids like cattle and milk ‘em,” feeding the sweet fluid to their ant infants. “That’s why aphids are called ant cows,” he said. It was one of those unsettling journalistic moments where you wonder whether your source has been having an especially dull afternoon and is having you on for the fun of it.
I ask Ludwig if a couple dozen beetle larvae would change the taste of a food. She says the insects she typically deals with wouldn’t impart much flavor, but that “their metabolic byproducts probably don’t taste very good.” I ask her what exactly she means by “metabolic byproducts.” She says, “Their waste materials.” She isn’t talking about coffee grounds and recyclables. Not only do you have to put up with thrips in your broccoli, you have to put up with thrip excreta.
If it makes you feel any better, none of this filth is bad for you. With the exception of the dermested beetle larvae, which have hook-shaped hairs that become embedded in your intestines and prompt all manner of gastroenterological sturm und drang, the insects encompassed in the FDA’s Food Defect Action Levels are objectionable either on a purely aesthetic level, or as an indicator of unsanitary warehouse conditions.
On the contrary, meals made from “microlivestock,” as edible insects are called by those who enjoy eating them, are good for you. According to the Ohio State fact sheet, caterpillars have as much protein as beef, a fraction of the fat, 10 times the iron and way more riboflavin and thiamine. Plus the ranches take up much less room and can be staffed by cowboy ants hired away from low-paying aphid-herding jobs.
Ludwig’s area of expertise is filth hair identification. On her desk between the copy of “World of Moths” and an 8-by-10 color photograph of Colorado potato beetles mating, is a diploma in hair and fiber microscopy. The more common filth hairs — rats, dogs, cats, mice — she can identify under the microscope by sight. For less common specimens she consults highly esoteric reference books and/or a cabinet of “authentics”: sample animal hairs culled from zoos.
She opens a drawer and shows me a glass slide with a mongoose hair fixed to it, and another from a ring-tailed cat. While Ludwig is off attending to a sample of chili paste, I pull open another drawer. This one contains human hairs of various ethnicities. “Japanese arm hair,” says one label. There are Chinese hairs, Caucasian hairs, Filipino hairs, knuckle hairs, eyelashes, eyebrow hairs. Without saying a word, Ludwig reaches in front of me and slides the drawer shut, leading me to wonder whether somewhere in that collection is an authentic human pubic hair.
Ludwig and her colleagues also make use of excreta “authentics,” glass vials of teeny tiny sample turds. I notice one labeled “caterpillar excreta.” Each unit in the vial is as small as a cake crumb.
One more reason to ranch caterpillars and not cows.
Don’t jump!
Exactly what happens when a person leaps off the Golden Gate Bridge? Reading this article is the safest way to find out.
In 1996, I jumped off a 350-foot-high bridge over a river gorge. I wanted to experience what it would be like to leap, head first, from a lethal height and hurtle toward my death. The death part itself I had no interest in experiencing — in fact, a fairly strong interest in not experiencing — so I had a bungee cord wrapped around my ankles. After the initial terror and involuntary-scream portion of the event, the fall was quite enjoyable. I didn’t flail or rotate helplessly like people pushed from balconies on TV, but dropped smoothly in dive formation. I felt the way, as a child, I imagined Superman feeling. It led me to believe that jumping off San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge would be a lovely way to go.
Continue Reading CloseThe last tourist in Mozambique
Want to chat with the president? No problem, as long as you're willing to go where nobody's ready for you.
Late one night in 1995, I dialed directory assistance for Maputo, Mozambique, and asked for the fax number for the Office of the President. I sent His Excellency a letter on a piece of Health magazine stationery, requesting an interview on the topic of meditation. I had read that President Chissano was a devotee of Transcendental Meditation, so much so that he required his cabinet members and his military recruits to be trained in TM. He even attributed the signing of the peace treaty with the guerrilla group RENAMO in part to the practice of TM in his country. A week later, the president’s secretary faxed me back. To my great and giddy disbelief, Chissano had agreed to see me.
Continue Reading CloseLadies who spray
If you sprinkle when you tinkle, cut it out!
Let’s say you are afraid of contracting VD from a toilet seat. You are misinformed, but we’ll get to that later. What do you do? You use a disposable toilet seat cover. There. Perfect. All is good with the world.
But all is not good with the world. In maybe a third of the stalls in women’s rest rooms these days (according to my desultory research), the toilet seat is liberally puddled with piss. Somewhere along the line, germ-phobic women began crouching above the toilet seat rather than sitting on a paper seat cover. Women have begun peeing like men, but they lack the courtesy to put up the seat. And since women cannot aim like men — they have nothing to aim with — a good many of them end up hosing urine on the seat. Very few, it would seem, bother to wipe it up.
Continue Reading CloseDeep, active penetration
How researchers at one toothbrush maker figure out ways to make dental hygiene a pleasurable experience.
You’re probably not getting deep, active penetration. Seventy percent of American adults aren’t. But I am. I’m getting deep, active penetration because I spent an afternoon at Oral-B Laboratories, where deep, active between-teeth penetration is a multimillion-dollar pursuit and where they hand out samples of their new deeply, actively penetrating $5 CrossAction toothbrush.
Apparently the CrossAction isn’t just any toothbrush. It isn’t, in the same way the Mach 3 wasn’t just any razor. Both were developed by Gillette (Gillette owns Oral-B), a company with a flair for extravagant, costly research into everyday toiletry items.
Continue Reading CloseTwelve steps in the end zone
Self-help for sports junkies (or the spouses who can't stand it).
According to Kevin Quirk, recovered sportsaholic and the author of the self-help paperback “Not Now, Honey, I’m Watching the Game,” my husband is addicted to baseball. I, in turn, am addicted to my husband. This means that five or six times a year I accompany him to the ballpark, though I care nothing about the San Francisco Giants and understand few subtleties of the game. I would love it if my husband were addicted to me rather than to Dusty Baker and his merry spitting men, and so I turned to Quirk’s book for help. More accurately, I suppose, I turned to Quirk’s book to make Ed feel bad about his passion for baseball, for I am a jealous and needy person. No doubt I suffer from some as-yet-unnamed personality syndrome that someone will one day write a book about, which Ed can then buy and use to make me feel bad, too.
Continue Reading ClosePage 1 of 6 in Mary Roach