Alcoholism
Whining about wine labels
If the government can assert the health benefits of fermented grapes, why can't viticulturists tout them?
You can’t blame the wine industry for wanting to gloat.
You could almost hear the glasses clinking in Napa Valley in the mid-1990s when the U.S. government — after spending years chronicling the deleterious effects of alcohol — acknowledged some of the potential health benefits of wine drinking. But the wine industry’s ongoing crusade to trumpet those findings in the form of a government-approved informational label on wine bottles has drawn heated criticism from politicians and public health officials, who blasted the controversial labels at a pair of hearings this week.
Leading the charge against the wine industry labeling initiative is Sen. Strom Thurmond, R-S.C., who testified before the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms Wednesday that the labels “may be seen as the government’s endorsement of drinking.”
The senator’s concerns were echoed this week by Surgeon General David Satcher and a bevy of public health officials, who fretted that the ostensibly pro-alcohol labels on wine bottles might even spur an increase in alcohol consumption.
At the heart of the rancorous debate are the typically uncontroversial “Dietary Guidelines for Americans,” which are revised and published every five years by a pair of federal agencies. The labeling battle began in earnest in 1996, when in addition to the standard admonitions about the dangers of alcohol abuse, the dietary guidelines included language alluding to the potential “cardiovascular benefits of consuming moderate amounts of alcohol,” says Wine Institute president John De Luca.
Soon after those findings were released, the wine industry — led by the not-for-profit Wine Institute — set about looking for subtle (and not-so-subtle) ways to make people aware of the guidelines. One of the proposals it came up with was a federally sanctioned “informational label” on wine bottles that would say something to the effect of “to learn the health effects of wine consumption, send for the Dietary Guidelines for Americans.”
A separate label would advise wine buyers to consult their family doctors to learn more about wine and health.
Never did the wine industry propose labels including any kind of specific health claims, De Luca says. Rather, winemakers were simply seeking government permission to publicize a government-generated document. “We thought the dietary guidelines were fair and did provide good consumer information,” De Luca says.
Apparently accepting that logic, the ATF accepted the industry’s labeling proposal and in 1999 approved individual labels for 17 winemakers.
That’s when Thurmond — the man dubbed “our worst enemy” by Wine Spectator magazine — stepped in.
Thurmond was the lead sponsor of the 1988 law that required warning labels on wine, beer and liquor containers, and railed against new labels that he feared “might be misconstrued as promoting alcohol,” Thurmond staffer Genevieve Erny says.
Although the wine industry labels purport to simply point consumers in the direction of government information, the implication of the labels is clearly that wine is healthy, Erny says. That implication runs contrary to extensive documentation surrounding the health dangers associated with alcohol, she adds.
In response to proposed legislation and other pressure from Thurmond, the ATF agreed to stop doling out the labels and hold public hearings to determine whether the labeling program should be eliminated or continued.
So just how strong is the evidence that a tall glass of rosi at the end of the day will keep you in the pink?
Depends on whom you ask. De Luca points to several studies that tie moderate wine consumption to reduced rates of stroke, heart problems, osteoporosis and other ailments. But even De Luca concedes that there is widespread dispute over whether moderate wine drinking is directly responsible for those health benefits or is simply a hobby enjoyed by already healthy people.
Also in dispute is whether it is the alcohol in wine, the antioxidants in red grape skins or a combination of the two that confers the purported health benefits.
Although there has been extensive research into wine’s health impact over the past 10 years, Thurmond and others in the anti-labeling camp tend to discount the conclusiveness of those studies. Observers say the wine label drama probably won’t be resolved until after the new administration takes power in 2001. In the meantime, wine lovers will have to dig deeper to find arguments for the health benefits of their favorite vice.
David McGuire is a reporter in Washington. More David McGuire.
I’m rich, privileged and drunk
After years of pain I've found love again. My problem? I can't quit drinking
(Credit: Zach Trenholm/Salon) Dear Cary,
I am a grown-up, well-educated, privileged American. I had several hellish years. Like, hellish pain. Dead children, miscarriage pain. The pain of all the losses was overwhelming. My soon-to-be-ex-husband and I both drank to dull the pain. I managed to escape and rebuild a life, thanks to my money and education. Now I can’t quit drinking.
My soon-to-be-ex-husband and I struggled to have children — he was the infertile one. His masculine pride really made the whole ordeal much, much more agonizing than it needed to be.
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Cary Tennis writes Salon's advice column, leads writing workshops and creative getaways, publishes books, writes an occasional newsletter and tweets as @carytennis.
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Will my husband ever stop drinking?
He's tried and tried and I wonder if it's hopeless. What can I do?
(Credit: Zach Trenholm/Salon) Dear Cary,
I am writing to you because from prior letters I know you know about alcoholism. My ex-husband is calling me, for the third time, asking me to take him back. I have left him twice before. The second time was 10 years ago. Our issue was always his alcoholism. He would try to stop, but eventually fail and then his drinking would become progressively worse. He was a mean drunk. Not physically, but still scary mean.
When he first called, he was in a sober living house, following a jail stint after three DUIs in three months. We talked for hours on the telephone every night for months. He talked about the past in a truthful manner for the first time. He took responsibility for his actions. His remorse was genuine. We spent two great weekends together and then he relapsed, calling me from jail after being drunk in public and resisting arrest. You see, the people in his sober living house are mostly not sober. They go out and drink during the day and as long as they make curfew there are no penalties. The place is in a very bad area and drugs and drunks abound on the streets. My son (our son, actually) went to visit him there. He said it’s a wasteland of abandoned buildings and gang/drug activity.
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Cary Tennis writes Salon's advice column, leads writing workshops and creative getaways, publishes books, writes an occasional newsletter and tweets as @carytennis.
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More Cary Tennis.
Therapy’s not helping my depression
After 15 years and no progress, I'm ready to quit it for good
(Credit: Zach Trenholm/Salon) Dear Cary,
I’ve suffered from pretty serious depression — laced with a good dose of anxiety — for more than 15 years now. It’s never been incapacitating; I always get up out of bed and bathe and work, but the lows, and darn-close-to-suicidal thoughts, are getting lower and coming more frequently.
I’m on antidepressants — four. I also self-medicate with booze — I’ll make no bones about it, I’m an alcoholic. I know it’s a depressant, but it’s also the only thing that gives me any sort of respite.
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Cary Tennis writes Salon's advice column, leads writing workshops and creative getaways, publishes books, writes an occasional newsletter and tweets as @carytennis.
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A match made on Craigslist adult services
James was the first man to pay me for sex. He wanted to bring out the good in me, even though he needed the bad
The Big Book of Alcoholics Anonymous describes the fellowship as “people who normally would not mix.” That’s a good way of describing James and me. I was 27 years old, a grad student, bored and curious — just like my ad said. James was in his mid-30s, a little too old and far too normal. He was not the kind of guy who’d approach me in another situation, at least that’s what I thought when I saw him. Then again, James and I would never meet in any situation other than this.
I was a Craigslist call girl. James was my first. I had gotten the idea from a friend. “There are ads,” she said, “placed by men, looking for” — she raised an eyebrow — “company.”
Continue Reading CloseMelissa Petro writes for The Huffington Post, Daily Beast, Rumpus.net and XO Jane.. More Melissa Petro.
I’ve never had a drink in my whole life
Because of a family history, I've never touched a drop. And then there was a toast and we raised our glasses ...
(Credit: Zach Trenholm/Salon) Dear Cary,
I’ve read your column often, and I think you can help me since you yourself have dealt with the consequences of addiction.
I really don’t know who else to turn to with this particular problem since most self-help books don’t deal with people who don’t drink.
I am in my mid-20s. In a nutshell, I was raised as an only child in a single-parent home with an alcoholic mother, who self-medicated with wine to deal with depression.
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Cary Tennis writes Salon's advice column, leads writing workshops and creative getaways, publishes books, writes an occasional newsletter and tweets as @carytennis.
- Send me a letter! Ask for advice! Letter writers please note: By sending a letter to advice@salon.com, you are giving Salon permission to publish it. Once you submit it, it may not be possible to rescind it. So be sure.
- Make a comment to Cary Tennis not for publication.
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