Books
“The Last Days of Haute Cuisine” by Patric Kuh
A witty, gossipy history of high cuisine shows how America's best restaurants turned into boomer feeding factories.
Reading Patric Kuh’s witty and wonderfully entertaining “Last Days of Haute Cuisine: America’s Culinary Revolution,” I thought of that scene in Woody Allen’s “Love and Death” when Allen, as Private Boris Grishenko, unwilling hero of the Napoleonic wars, asks his company commander what the Russians will win if they defeat the French.
“What do we win?” says the scandalized sergeant. “Imagine your loved ones conquered by Napoleon and forced to live under French rule! Do you want them to eat all that rich food and those heavy sauces?”
The disappearance of sauces and the democratization of dining in America are Kuh’s topics in this, yes, delicious little book. It will leave you hungry for more of everything it has to offer, culinary and literary. Writing about “The Formidable Mrs. Child” — that’s Julia — and her landmark 1961 primer, “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” Kuh presents his thesis in a nutshell: “The pursuit of gastronomy in this country was about to be transformed. No longer would it be the domain of the grande langouste but rather that of the frantic hostess in a Pucci caftan mopping at the flop sweat as she peered through the Pyrex oven door to see if the soufflé aux crevettes was rising.”
That Kuh, a Paris-trained chef, can keep his sense of humor, in a profession in which the atmosphere in most kitchens starts with hysteria and moves up from there, is a small miracle of personality. That he made me feel like the Scarlet Pimpernel, waging a last, reckless gamble to rescue la table from the hoi polloi, is a measure of his skill as a writer. For the time it takes to read Kuh’s book, we’re all cafe society.
“The Last Days of Haute Cuisine” opens with the arrival in New York of Henri Soulé, formerly maître d’hôtel at the Café de Paris, who ran the French restaurant at the 1939 World’s Fair in Flushing, Queens, and stayed on as proprietor of Le Pavillon — “the Michelangelo, the Mozart and the Leonardo of the French restaurant in America,” as the New York Times described Soulé in his obituary. In Soulé’s rise and fall, Kuh detects “many of the conflicts that have taken place in the heart of the American restaurant business” over the past 50 years, “between access and restriction, between being true to one’s national identity or its Americanized version, between the food that one loves to eat and that which one needs to serve” in order to make money. That all cuisine, haute and otherwise, finally moved to Hollywood seems somehow preordained: The story of restaurants isn’t the story of food, after all, but the story of image.
“The new ideal would become rusticity, not faux sophistication,” Kuh observes. “At its worst, this is our own age’s version of continental cuisine, in which dishes with mahi mahi, miso, gnocchi, and Thai basil pesto have become as clichéd as steak Diane ever was (and a lot less wine-friendly).” On Kuh’s evidence, the unrelieved solemnity of contemporary American menus — “Spenger’s Tomales Bay bluepoint oysters on ice,” “Cream of fresh corn soup, Mendocino style, with crayfish butter” “Big Sur Garrapata Creek smoked trout steamed over California bay leaves” — can be traced to 1976 and Alice Waters’ original “Northern California Regional Dinner” at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif. Add to this the replacement of the snobbish waiter with the friendly waitperson, appearing at your table every two or three minutes to see if “everything’s OK,” and you have the Bobo feeding factories of our time. (Unlike their French progenitors, American restaurants don’t want you to linger.)
Moving through Kuh’s often personal narrative are the biggest names in American food trends, starting with Restaurant Associates — “RA” — whose success with a restaurant in Newark Airport after World War II led to a daring break with French tradition and a “modified Rothschild style” at the Four Seasons in New York. (“The RA brain trust knew that here they couldn’t just stick sparklers into the food as at the Newarker,” Kuh observes. “This wasn’t Newark; this was Park Avenue.”) Not surprisingly, James Beard emerges as the single most influential figure in American cookery of the last century, but Julia Child took the mystery out of petits pois and tarte aux fruites, and M.F.K. Fisher, mourning the suicide of her husband in 1941, found solace and epiphany, “the glimmer of personal reconstruction,” in a simple bowl of Mexican beans. By the time Kuh meets up with Wolfgang Puck at Spago Beverly Hills — “I sensed he might actually get up and leave if I were to mention the words ‘smoked salmon pizza’” — you know for certain there’s no going back.
Henri Soulé and Le Pavillon were undone by the Kennedy clan during the 1960 presidential campaign, after Soulé overheard Joe Kennedy Sr. say something about “that lousy Frenchman.” Soulé got revenge by declaring, “loudly enough for the whole dining room to hear,” that Jack Kennedy had “not a chance” of winning the White House. “While we know that Soulé muttered something in French about how Kennedy’s son was not yet elected president and already he was acting like a dictator,” writes Kuh, “we don’t know the subtleties of the Gallic shrug” that accompanied his public insult: “Was it the slightly apologetic raising of the shoulders that a French post office clerk might offer, signaling that matters are out of their control? Or was it the vaguely affronted shrug that, together with palms held stiffly outward, signals that a Frenchman is nearing his emotional threshold? Or did Soulé actually find it necessary to employ the full shrug, which at its most perfected levels is performed with a pursed lip refinement that can only be effectively translated as ‘Screw you!’” One way or another, the Kennedys deserted Soulé for La Caravelle. Après ça, le déluge.
One thing doesn’t change, from Kuh’s account: There’s never been more than a handful of top-flight restaurants anywhere in the world. Unless you know them and can afford them, you’re better off eating pot au feu, as Soulé did, in the kitchen with the help. Trust the chef — in France, the customer is never right.
Peter Kurth, a regular contributor to Salon Books, is the author of "Isadora: A Sensational Life." He lives in Burlington, Vt. More Peter Kurth.
“People Who Eat Darkness”: The disappearing blonde
A true crime story set in Tokyo illuminates the complicated truths behind media cliches
Joji Obara and Lucie Blackman (Credit: Estate of Lucie Jane Blackman) Lucie Blackman, 21, went out for the afternoon in 2000, phoning her roommate and best friend Louise to arrange a meeting later that night. Lucie never showed up, and within a few days she’d become one of those vanished blondes whose fates fuel headlines and hours of speculative media coverage. She was British, a former flight attendant, and she and Louise were living in Tokyo. They were also bar hostesses, a profession with a very specific meaning in Japan, difficult to explain to foreigners and not entirely clear to the Japanese themselves. Lucie both did and didn’t match the classic Missing Blonde profile, and for a while the mystery of what happened to her threatened to lapse into permanent obscurity.
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Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com. More Laura Miller.
Corporate criminals gone wild
The maker of the documentary film "Inside Job" has a new book excoriating Wall Street -- and President Obama
A detail from the cover of "Predator Nation" “Inside Job,” Charles Ferguson’s Oscar-winning documentary film on how government, Wall Street and academia colluded to deliver us the worst financial crisis since the Great Depression, made a powerful case that something was very very rotten at the heart of the American political/economic nexus. His follow-up book, “Predator Nation: Corporate Criminals, Political Corruption, and the Hijacking of America,” can be considered the legal brief that dots every “i” and crosses every “t” in his argument. A tightly argued, profusely footnoted and deeply enraged castigation of everyone involved, “Predator Nation” isn’t just a factually unchallengeable account of how Wall Street blew up the global economy. It’s a denunciation, a call for justice and a warning: After getting away with the crime of the century, Wall Street still isn’t satisfied.
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Andrew Leonard is a staff writer at Salon. On Twitter, @koxinga21. More Andrew Leonard.
Can you identify?
Science shows that the only way around some readers' prejudices is to trick them
(Credit: Shutterstock/Salon) The news of recent research documenting how readers identify with the main characters in stories has mostly been taken as confirmation of the value of literary role models. Lisa Libby, an assistant professor at Ohio State University and co-author of a study published in the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, explained that subjects who read a short story in which the protagonist overcomes obstacles in order to vote were more likely to vote themselves several days later.
The suggestibility of readers isn’t news. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s novel of a sensitive young man destroyed by unrequited love, “The Sorrows of Young Werther,” inspired a rash of suicides by would-be Werthers in the late 1700s. Jack Kerouac has launched a thousand road trips. Still, this is part of science’s job: Running empirical tests on common knowledge — if for no other reason than because common knowledge (and common sense) is often wrong.
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Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com. More Laura Miller.
“The Aleppo Codex”: The bizarre history of a precious book
A reporter traces the shadowy fate of the definitive version of the Hebrew Bible
Matti Friedman An ancient and priceless book, a murky history of evasions and coverups, an underground of sinister and possibly violent dealers, a former spy who drops tantalizing hints and a wily 84-year-old millionaire who says stuff like, “The problem with this story is that it could damage your health”: Are these the ingredients for a cheesy, improbable historical thriller? Yet “The Aleppo Codex,” Matti Friedman’s account of his attempts to learn the history of one of the world’s most precious books, sports all of these assets, and it’s nonfiction. If reporting this story damaged Friedman’s health, it probably happened when he realized what he’d stumbled into and his reporter’s heart started beating in doubletime.
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Laura Miller is a senior writer for Salon. She is the author of "The Magician's Book: A Skeptic's Adventures in Narnia" and has a Web site, magiciansbook.com. More Laura Miller.
Augusten Burroughs: Conquer trauma by letting it go
Salon exclusive: The best-selling memoirist says past horrors haunt us because we think about them too much. Stop
Augusten Burroughs Many people continue to feel influenced and even controlled by the things that happened to them a long time ago. Sometimes, people harbor dark, traumatic memories from childhood. Or fragments of memories — incomplete scenes, uncomfortable feelings, perhaps even a sense of certainty that something specific and terrible happened to them, but little more than this.
Others experienced something traumatic in adulthood that continues to affect them day to day many years later. Maybe an assault has left a person afraid to leave their home or enter a particular neighborhood.
Continue Reading CloseAugusten Burroughs' many books include "Runnning With Scissors," "Dry," "Sellevision," "Magical Thinking" and "Possible Side Effects." His latest book is "This Is How." More Augusten Burroughs.
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