Sex
The most hedonistic woman in America?
Alice Waters has helped us to be less worried about pleasure for its own sake.
I was going to call this piece “The Sexiest Woman in America?” but theres something vulgar and simplistic about that, and since my wife, Lucy, knows that I know Alice Waters, theres no need to ask for trouble. Most important of all, it really is a profound and intelligent sense of pleasure that Alice promotes. Early on in her fascinating career she knew that food worked best as a metaphor for sex rather than the other way around.
For those of you uncertain what Im talking about, let me say that this last weekend of August 2001 Chez Panisse, a restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., celebrates its 30th birthday. In those 30 years, it has become probably the most famous and influential eating place in America. Is it also the best restaurant? I dont know, and Im never going to have the time or the blood pressure to sample all the competition. Thats why “the best restaurant” is as irrelevant a concept as “the sexiest man or woman.” There are a lot of both where you could have a wonderful evening. But one large reason why America has so many good restaurants now is the example set by Alice.
The name Panisse is from a character in the films of Marcel Pagnol, made in the early 1930s and set in the French countryside near Marseilles. Thus, very broadly, Alice Waters was inspired to introduce an attitude inherent in French cooking to the American scene. That meant fresh produce, grown near the restaurant by friends, and it required tactful undercooking to preserve that nutritional freshness. It also explored the rarer components of salads and the vegetable department that were then used to compose a plate that was itself a work of art as laid before you — but a piece of art that you were obliged to destroy.
The whole thing was called nouvelle cuisine, and over the years it has blithely taken on the best of any national cuisine it could find. Large books could be written about the way in which the Chez Panisse menu has evolved, but it has always aspired to the same things — and these are by no means antagonistic to sexual pleasure — fragrance, flavor, sensual pleasure, developed appetite in a healthy body.
Now, in a nation as puritanical as this one, and as thoroughly nervous of pleasure for its own sake, it is still possible for a restaurant review to sound elitist and decadent. And many of those God-fearing defenders of the straight and narrow way lunch on a cheeseburger and double fries. Which is their right and privilege, even if it hastens their death and restricts their sense of life.
Chez Panisse is a restaurant in a privileged part of the world. It requires highly skilled workers and expensive, handmade ingredients. So it is not cheap food. Nor is it by any stretch the most expensive restaurant in America. Indeed, Chez Panisse has strived to keep its prices moderate and fair. And because Alice herself is frequently not just in the kitchen, but out and about in the restaurant talking to her customers, no one could regard her as a profiteer. She has done well enough out of it, I hope, and been happy, but she maintains the restaurant life (which never stops) and has never paused to cash in, or to yield to offers to franchise the name “Panisse” so that its menu came deep-frozen out of factories in New Jersey. Instead, she is dedicated to the moment and freshness of our pleasure.
So theres no need to refer to figs and oysters or the eternal aphrodisiac content in food, no need even to play upon the ways in which we speak of sex as if it were a meal. The most important thing — and it has to do with the belated maturation of this very reluctant America — is that Chez Panisse has looked pleasure in the face, kept from blinking and said, yes, that is for us. Because, after all, life is hard enough, surely too short and deeply unfair. But life deserves our enjoyment, and life will never improve unless the philosophy of pleasure is understood and grasped with gentle hands. That is not simply self-indulgence, abandon and irresponsibility. It is in the most real sense a diet for the nation that would let us be healthier, wiser and kinder. The best way to defeat a tyrant is to let him poison himself. The best recipe for a benevolent leader could be a light polenta with the freshest anchovies and basil, and this rather insolent Pinot that we happen to have.
Enjoy.
David Thomson is the author of "A Biographical Dictionary of Film" (new edition just published), "Rosebud: The Story of Orson Welles" and "In Nevada." More David Thomson.
Massage therapists rubbed wrong by sex talk
A Jennifer Love Hewitt show and the Travolta allegations have masseuses tired of being confused for sex workers
(Credit: iStockphoto/sybanto) Joe, a licensed massage therapist, knows what it’s like having a famous client who expects something extra. He had an Academy Award-winning actor begin gyrating on his massage table before raising his hips in the air to show off his erection. “He was hoping that I would play with him in some shape or form,” he says.
Needless to say, Joe isn’t surprised by allegations by two masseurs that John Travolta got handsy during massages. (Travolta’s attorney has denied all the allegations, and called them “ridiculous.”) “It happens all the time,” he says, and not just with celebrity clients. He frequently encounters men who try to fondle him, usually while he’s working on their glutes or lower back and their hand happens to be level with his crotch. “They think they’re so original, but they’re all so much the same,” Joe says, his voice rising. “They all use the same tactics, the same body movements, the same gyrations and grinding my table, the [heavy] breathing.”
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Tracy Clark-Flory is a staff writer at Salon. Follow @tracyclarkflory on Twitter. More Tracy Clark-Flory.
A night at the vibrator museum
Early vibrators were hand-cranked, two-person jobs -- and prescribed by doctors. How far we've come since then
(Credit: Antique Vibrator Museum) I can now say that I’ve used a turn-of-the-century vibrator — on my hand, but still.
The silver, hand-cranked contraption is usually kept behind glass at Good Vibrations’ Antique Vibrator Museum in San Francisco — but staff sexologist Carol Queen made a rare exception. “This is very special,” she whispered, unlocking the case and carefully pulling out Dr. Johansen’s Auto Vibrator, a relic from 1904. The “auto” part is not so much: It was a two-person job, with her having to crank the device’s handle to get it thrumming. Pressing my finger tips to its inch-wide circular platform of pleasure, I was pleasantly surprised by its power.
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Tracy Clark-Flory is a staff writer at Salon. Follow @tracyclarkflory on Twitter. More Tracy Clark-Flory.
Maggie Gyllenhaal on sexual liberation
The beloved indie star tells Salon about her "vibrator movie" and why she loves playing transgressive women
Maggie Gyllenhaal (Credit: Reuters/Mark Blinch) When I met Maggie Gyllenhaal about six weeks ago, she was enormously and gloriously pregnant, stretching out on a sofa with her shoes off and feet up in a Manhattan office building. (Since that time, Gyllenhaal and husband Peter Sarsgaard have welcomed their second daughter, Gloria Ray, to the world.) We were there to talk about “Hysteria,” the charming, lightweight feminist farce from director Tanya Wexler that explores a key event in the history of female sexuality: the invention of the vibrator by Mortimer Granville, a Victorian doctor who was seeking to cure the mysterious “female malady” that lends the movie its title.
Continue Reading CloseMother-daughter sexperts
Susie Bright and her daughter, Aretha, make parental talks about sex look easy -- and fun
Most parents loathe talking to their kids about the birds and the bees, let alone pubic hair grooming, faked orgasms and “water sports” — but most parents are not legendary “sexpert” Susie Bright.
Better than talking about these things, she penned an advice column in 2009 with her daughter, Aretha, then 19, for the ladyblog Jezebel. Their answers to questions about everything from porn to Paxil were unflinching but playful, and at times controversial. Now the pair have collected those columns into a new e-book, “Mother/Daughter Sex Advice.” Together, they read as an irreverent version of “Our Bodies, Ourselves” for the Internet age. The mother-daughter team also reflect on what the experience of writing the column was like, and it turns out it wasn’t as weird as many would think: For the most part, it was just a continuation of conversations they had been having throughout Aretha’s life.
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Tracy Clark-Flory is a staff writer at Salon. Follow @tracyclarkflory on Twitter. More Tracy Clark-Flory.
On the rack: A cultural history of breasts
Did breasts evolve for lactation or to enhance sex appeal? A new book explores why they matter
(Credit: iStockphoto/NadyaPhoto) It’s hard to be boobs. Sure, breasts are cherished as givers of milk and the pinnacle of sex appeal, but the modern world hasn’t been good to mammaries.
As Florence Williams writes in “Breasts: A Natural and Unnatural History,” they’re the most tumor-prone organ in the human body. They “soak up pollution like a pair of soft sponges,” and transmit environmental toxins to babies through breast milk. “Breasts are bellwethers for the changing health of people,” she says. While we’ve “genetically modified our crops to be able to protect them from the ill effects of pesticides,” Williams writes, “we haven’t yet figured out how to modify our breasts.” Aside from using saline and silicone, of course.
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Tracy Clark-Flory is a staff writer at Salon. Follow @tracyclarkflory on Twitter. More Tracy Clark-Flory.
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