Katharine Mieszkowski
The food pyramid scheme
Nutritionists say the federal government's new guide to healthy eating has no teeth.
The federal government promoted its new food pyramid Tuesday and fitness guru Denise Austin was psyched. At a press conference in Washington, the all-American, one-woman exercise empire ordered the attendees to get out of their chairs and stretch!
“Come on!” she yelled. “I can’t leave without getting everybody active for just a minute. Arms up now! Come on, stretch that spine. Your spine is your lifeline; keep it healthy, keep it strong. Now stretch your back! Great for that waistline. Come on. Every minute counts! You’re burning calories!”
At least someone is pumped about the the United States Department of Agriculture’s new way to promote its nutrition guidelines. Independent nutritionists, on the other hand, say the new food pyramid, dubbed MyPyramid or “Steps to a Healthier You,” is about as sturdy as sand.
The colorful design of the new pyramid, which provides little information about what to actually eat, refers visitors to a “personalized” Web site. “The nicest thing I could say is that it’s a missed opportunity,” says Michele Simon, director of the Center for Informed Food Choices in Oakland, Calif. “The worst I could say is that it’s a joke.”
Dr. Carlos Arturo Camargo Jr. is an epidemiologist at the Harvard School of Public Health. He served on the new dietary guidelines committee, on whose recommendations the new pyramid is based. “The pyramid is incredible to me,” he told the New York Times. “The whole concept of replacing unhealthy foods with healthy food is very hard to find. I’m pretty skeptical that this graphic is going to produce many healthy people, except for some highly motivated ones.”
The new pyramid essentially turns the old one on its side, using six different colored slices to represent the food groups: grains, vegetables, fruits, milk, meat and beans, and oils. It introduces a stick figure running up one side on a staircase to promote exercise.
But the pyramid itself lists no foods, requiring those motivated — and patient enough — to delve into the related Web site to find out how much and what they should actually eat. Based on a person’s age, gender and activity level, the site will (theoretically) serve up one of 12 different recommended plans.
“It appears to me that there is a ton of great information on the Web site, if people have access to the Internet and can take the time to really investigate, and are interested enough to read the information,” said Dr. R. Elaine Turner, assistant professor of nutrition at the University of Florida.
But those are some big ifs. “For one thing, you have to have a computer,” says Marion Nestle, author of “Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Health and Nutrition.” “Well, that cuts out a pretty significant segment of the population. This is dietary advice for people who have computers. And that is the segment of the population that probably needs it least.”
Ironically, it’s the population most likely to suffer from an unhealthy diet — the poor — that will miss out on the nutritional message. The government counters that nutritionists and food educators can print information from the site and hand it to low-income people. But critics say that many of the organizations serving poorer communities don’t have access to the Internet, much less a color printer.
“There is still an outreach component that’s not taking place,” says Fern Gale Estrow, a nutritionist who works with low-income and low-literacy populations in New York City. She says that so far the site has been so slow that she could only get it to work at 3 a.m. She also found that to disseminate the Web site’s information to her clients, she would be forced to buy extra software.
“In the name of online personalization, the pyramid has lost much of its old at-a-glance utility. Vegetables and milk have similar-size slices on the pyramid, but what do they really mean? The graphic itself tells you nothing,” says Simon. “The specific information that you need about how to eat is only on the Web site. So the whole educational tool is now Web-based. And you have to go deep into the Web site to even find the specifics about what to eat in what quantities.”
Some nutritionists, such as Turner, like the fact that the new image of the stair-stepping stick figure plays up activity, since it goes hand-in-hand with good diet as a recipe for health. But critics see the stick figure as a sign that the government is now parroting the food industry’s mantra: It’s OK to eat junk, as long as you get enough exercise to burn it off — calories in, calories out.
“The food industry is on the defensive with accusations being leveled against them for contributing to obesity and diet-related illness,” says Simon. “One of the main ways that they are deflecting that criticism is saying that the problem is not one of dietary habits, and what people are eating, but rather that people are not exercising enough. Basically, the government is adopting the food industry’s argument that exercise is the real answer.”
Nestle points out that even if Americans exercised more than 30 minutes a day, as the government recommends, it would hardly be enough to counteract the amount of sugar and fat that many are swilling down. “We know that activity alone is not enough to let people maintain or lose weight,” she says. “A 20-ounce soft drink, which is 275 calories, takes two and three-quarter miles to walk off.” But the pyramid avoids dissing any foods specifically, aside from such gentle suggestons as: “Go easy on fruit juice.”
Dolphins are dying to amuse us
SeaWorld and aquariums, implicated in the shocking new documentary about dolphin slaughter, "The Cove," strike back
The riveting new documentary “The Cove,” which opens in theaters nationwide Friday, exposes the annual slaughter of more than 2,000 dolphins in Taiji, Japan. The dolphins are among the more than 20,000 cetaceans, including whales and porpoises, annually killed in Japan.
In Taiji’s so-called drive fishery, fishermen in a menacing flotilla of boats herd wild dolphins, who are sensitive to noise, by banging pipes underwater. Fleeing this cacophonous wall of sound, the dolphins are corralled into a hidden cove and speared, clubbed and stabbed to death. By morning the entire cove is red with blood.
Continue Reading ClosePregnant women hit hard by swine flu
Expectant moms may be among first eligible to receive vaccine for influenza A H1N1
The first American to die of swine flu was a 33-year-old schoolteacher named Judy Trunnell of Harlingen, TX. She died on May 5, after slipping into a coma, and giving birth to a healthy baby girl by C-section. Now, American epidemiologists are finding that Trunnell’s experience was not a tragic anomaly, since pregnant women infected with this flu appear more likely to suffer serious illness and even die from it.
Since April, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention believe that the virus formerly known as swine flu, now called influenza A H1N1, has infected one million Americans. Of 302 deaths in the United States to date that have been attributed to this flu, the CDC has detailed information on 266 of them, according to the Associated Press. The CDC has found that 15 of the 266 were pregnant women — or about 6 percent. That doesn’t sound like that many, but pregnant women only make up about one percent of the United States population.
Continue Reading CloseSushi to die for
Will bluefin tuna survive our insatiable appetite for status and taste?
This environmental crisis has everything: world-renowned chefs and Hollywood celebrities in an intercontinental food fight over the fate of one of the world’s great predators, the bluefin tuna.
Pound-for-pound, bluefin is the most valuable fish in the world, prized as a delicacy at the finest sushi bars. But after decades of overfishing, this magnificent fish, which can grow to weigh three-quarters of a ton, has been so severely depleted that it swims on the brink of oblivion. Yet its prized buttery flesh is still on the menu at Nobu, the celebrated high-end sushi chain, which is co-owned by Robert De Niro, and has 24 restaurants in 13 countries.
Continue Reading CloseBorn too soon
Vicki Forman's twins weighed only a pound at birth. She thought they should be allowed to die. Doctors disagreed
Above: A nurse holds the foot of Milagros Pimentel, a baby girl born at 20 weeks in a Colombia hospital. After years of trying to conceive, writer Vicki Forman’s twins were finally coming. Way too early.
Evan and Ellie were only 23 weeks gestation when Forman went into labor. They were so premature Forman thought she was having a miscarriage. At birth, each baby weighed only about a pound.
“One of life’s great illusions is the notion that we can want — and get — things on our own terms, no matter what. It’s human nature to seek pleasure and avoid suffering, but what happens when suffering finds you?” Forman writes in her harrowing new book “This Lovely Life: A Memoir of Premature Motherhood.” “My husband and I had tried for two long years to conceive these twins, had lived through miscarriages and fertility treatments to bear them. When I learned they were coming so early and so fragile, I had only one wish: to let them go.”
Continue Reading CloseNew York Times crazy with puppy love!
Why is one of the most powerful women in American journalism writing about her dog?
The most emailed story on the New York Times Web site right now is the debut of Jill Abramson’s new weekly series called “The Puppy Diaries,” about the first year of her new pooch’s life. Abramson is the Times managing editor for news, who can more typically be found fielding questions from readers on such weighty matters as the state of investigative journalism and Times’ coverage of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.
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