Surprise Pairings

According to French wine law, Côtes du Rhône is a wine that can be made of a blend of up to 23 grapes; that is usually red but can also be white — the reds can be blended with the juice of white grapes and the whites can be blended with the juice of skinless red grapes (did you catch that?). But this is what you really should know: Côtes du Rhône is a wine that is a great value, that is food friendly, that is earthy and delicious without ever upstaging the moment.

Never brash or showy, “CDR” is not meant to dominate a friendly meal, but to enhance it, not to be the subject of conversation, but to encourage a chat, not a special occasion wine, but a wine that makes any occasion special. These wines are fruit-driven but also subtle and sensual. They are the anti-Cabernet, never ponderous or overly complicated. Good CDR is a medium-bodied wine, with an earthy character, and very versatile in terms of food pairing, whether you’re eating white or red meat, or grilled fish, or pasta, or pizza (especially pizza). This is a red wine that, when paired with informal food from the oven or the grill, becomes a fruity, spicy “sauce” in a glass. It is also one of the great values in red wines, with many available for about $15, in part because there’s so much of it available.

Côtes du Rhône is the name of the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée); the place where the grapes are grown. It’s a humongous appellation, covering more than 100,000 acres of vineyards owned by more than 10,000 growers. The 1,500 wineries in the Côtes du Rhône produce 250 million bottles annually (relax, that’s only a bit more than 20 million cases of wine; no biggie!), 95 percent of it red.

Forty percent of the plantings in the Côtes du Rhône are red Grenache grapes, followed by Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and a host of other red grapes. Many of these produce single-varietal or blended wines that are quite charming, and wine growers outside of the Côtes du Rhône will often feature these grapes. You may have enjoyed a Grenache, and you should never pass up the opportunity to taste a good Carignan. And in California or Australia, many producers like to strip down the Côtes du Rhône blends to a more streamlined Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre blend (the cognoscenti and the terminally hip, perhaps afraid they might mispronounce “Mourvèdre,” refer to this style of wine as SGM).

But with so many producers in the Côtes du Rhône (over 170 villages may make the wine), with so much variation allowed in the roster of 23 grapes, one of the joys of exploring the wines of the Côtes du Rhône is that each wine is different, and each delicious. And just because they can use 23 grapes doesn’t mean that they do — most producers use five to 10, with Grenache usually dominating.

And then there’s a separate AOC, Côtes du Rhône-Villages, which ostensibly creates better wines on a consistent basis. Why? Because about 75 villages have been identified as having superior vineyards. Government regs here are a bit more stringent: nine grapes are legal instead of 23; the vineyards must yield fewer grapes to concentrate flavors, and sugar levels in the grapes must be higher than in the humble CDR, translating to higher minimum alcohol in the finished wine.

The Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation is positively minuscule when compared to the larger all-encompassing Côtes du Rhône, just about one-tenth the land under vine producing the raw material for just 19 million bottles of wine per year. Of the 75 villages that are part of the CDR-V, 16 are allowed to add the name of their village on the wine label; it is an outward sign of quality. Don’t be surprised to see red wines labeled as Côtes du Rhône-Villages-Cairanne or Côtes du Rhône-Villages-Sablet, among several others. (One further wrinkle: Wines labeled as Côtes du Rhône-Villages-Laudun or Côtes du Rhône-Villages-Chusclan can only be white wines.)

“CDR-V” wines should show a bit more depth of flavor, a bit more complexity, and at their best, even a bit of aging potential of about three to six years. These wines are excellent values, too. You can expect to pay up to 25 percent more for a CDR-V than a CDR, and a bit more for a CDR-V with the name of an esteemed village on the label. But we’re still talking about wines that should retail for less than $25, and often closer to $20.

So, the next time someone starts talking about “Rhone-style” wines, whip out the real thing. A bottle of delicious CDR or CDR-V wines should be very easy to find in wine shops and on wine lists, and are even easier to drink.

The following are some fine producers of Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône-Villages wines. Note that some producers source grapes in both appellations, and so will produce both wines. Happy hunting!

Côtes du Rhône: Guigal (a personal favorite), Jean-Luc Colombo “Les Abeilles,” (very good and a true bargain), La Chasse du Pape, Coudolet de Beaucastel, Caves des Papes, Chapoutier, Château de Fonsalette and Pialade bottlings from the esteemed Château Rayas, Clos du Caillou, Les Garrigues, Domaine Gramenon, Domaine de l’Ameillaud, Domaine de la Solitude, Domaine du Pesquier, Jaboulet (“Parallèle 45″), Perrin Réserve, Patrick Lesec, Mont Redon, Les Monticauts, Saint Cosme, and Tardieu-Laurent.

Côtes du Rhône-Villages: Alary, Louis Bernard, André Brunel, Cave de Cairanne, Château du Trignon, Coste Chaude, Domaine Santa Duc, Domaine St. Luc, Domaines de la Guicharde, Domaines Perrin, Guigal, Patrick Lesec, Gabrel Meffre Laurus, and Mas de Boislauzon. 

There are laws governing many aspects of Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (the spirit’s true moniker), including the grains used in the recipe, called a “mash bill” (must be at least 51 percent “Indian Corn”), aging (which must be done only in new oak barrels, giving it dramatic flavor and color), and how much alcohol the finished product may contain (between 80 and 160 proof, meaning 40- 80 percent alcohol).

But the laws themselves don’t guarantee quality, and recently a renaissance of high-quality, “small batch” and “single barrel” bourbons has been setting the spirit world on fire and even reaching booze-resistant wine geeks such as myself. These artisan bourbons can be traced directly to Maker’s Mark, where the Samuels family has made small-batch bourbons for five generations, and whose national distribution beginning two decades ago is what raised the bar for bourbon producers. Today, Bill Samuels Jr. and his son Rob preside over one of the smallest commercial bourbon distilleries in Kentucky. Aged for six years upon release, “Maker’s” produces a scant 38 barrels per day, for both its “Old Style” and “Select” bourbons. Certainly, Maker’s didn’t invent high-quality bourbon, but it was its surge to popularity that spurred the marketing of older brands and creation of newer brands (see my Bourbon Tasting Notes below).

Recently, I was reminded that fine bourbon should not be reserved solely for mint juleps on Derby Day when I attended a friend’s birthday party. She prepared the most glorious repast of traditional Southeast Asian dishes, which she learned to make while traveling to that part of the world. While enjoying Laotian sticky rice salad and tiny Vietnamese pork meatballs, an extraordinary Thai cucumber salad and green curry with chicken, I noticed an open bottle of Knob Creek and another of Blanton’s, the gifts of party guests.

A sip of either bourbon followed by a sip of water (which actually extends both the flavor and finish of the whiskey), and then a bite of these wonderful foods created a state of pure bliss. The oaky, smoky, sweetly bitter bourbon flavors created a rich and sustained counterpoint to the earthy, bold flavors of the Asian foods. The peanut sauce, limes, chilies, mint, coconut milk, garlic, ginger, nuoc mam fish sauce, all melded in balance by the delicate hand of the Birthday Girl, made for an indelible match with both liquors. The Knob Creek added to that simultaneously spiky and rich mix of flavors beautifully rounded honey and maple notes, giving a sweet finish. The Blanton’s offered floral and herbaceous qualities, a spicy nose to match the spicy food, and a silky texture and fruity finish. This meal will always be a revelation.

As I savored each morsel and each sip of this Southeast Asian/Southeast American pairing, I was struck by the fact that the flavors in the Asian food were not so different from the flavors in a perfect mint julep. True to culture and tradition, the julep is mint and sugar paired with fine Bourbon and diluted by crushed ice. True to culture and cuisine, there was plenty of mint and sugar in the ingredients of the birthday feast, and the requisite sip of water diluted the bourbon.

Louisville and Laos. Who’d-a-thunk-it? The Planet of the Palate sometimes spins in unexpected and unpredictable ways, but widely diverse experiences can often yield distinctly similar pleasures. 

BOURBON TASTING NOTES

Fine bourbon, like all fine whiskeys of the world, is meant to be sipped and savored. A small glass of bourbon is best served “neat” or with one or two ice cubes, and always a separate glass of water, a sip of which magically extends the flavor and finish.

Unlike with wine, smelling all spirits should be done by breathing in through a wide-open mouth, not the nose. The power of the alcohol can actually damage the sinuses, or at the very least overwhelm your ability to assess the aromas and bouquet of the bourbon.

Just for the record, Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 and George Dickel Original No. 12 are not bourbons, but the only commercially produced Tennessee whiskeys in the world. Produced within 16 miles of each other, these corn-based whiskeys, unlike their Kentucky counterparts, are filtered through 10 feet of hard maple charcoal prior to maturation.

Oh, and by the way, the term “proof” means double the amount of alcohol by volume, so if a bourbon is 100 proof, it’s 50 percent alcohol.

Baker’s 7 Year Old (107 Proof/$50)

Dark amber, full-bodied, rich and complex. Extraordinarily aromatic: lime zest, cedar, ocean/seaweed, pistachio. A lovely, lingering finish that changes dramatically from nuts to anise.

Blanton’s Single Barrel (93 Proof/$55)

Medium amber/orange. Full-bodied but not overwhelming, with a very smooth, almost silky texture. Aromas include smoke, herbs, stone fruits. The finish is moderately spicy, complex, lingering and elegant. Shows its class from first sip to last.

Booker’s 7 Year Old Batch-Numbered and Dated (129.6 Proof/$60)

A personally preferred palate-pleasing postprandial, Booker’s is dark amber and quite powerful (at almost 65 percent alcohol, it should be), but also subtle, even stylish. Redolent of molasses, spices and butterscotch, the texture is rich, sappy, dense. A nuttiness evolves on the nose and palate, and the finish is surprisingly velvety; smooth and seemingly never-ending.

Elijah Craig Single Barrel 18 Year Old/Barrel-Numbered and Dated (90 Proof/$55)

A rare and unusual Bourbon, this oldie certainly retains the character of the barrel, with strong oak tempered by a suggestion of soy or hoisin sauce on the nose. Assertive on the palate but with a creamy texture. Elijah Craig also produces a 12 Year Old Double Distilled Bourbon, which sells for about $15, and is also very fine.

Evan Williams Numbered and Dated Single Barrel Vintage Year (86.6 Proof/$32)

Golden amber color and light-to-medium body. On the nose, oolong tea mixed with bits of citrus zest and dried peel; exotic. On the palate this unique spirit maintains the fruit and spice, with a heady dose of slightly vegetal earthiness.

A.H. Hirsch Finest Reserve Pot Stilled Sour Mash (91.6 Proof/$135)

This is one sexy, almost obscene bourbon, and a great gift for anyone who is serious about whiskey. With the color of 30 Year Tawny Port, it is massive in its Rubenesque power. Warm, viscous and smooth. Luckily, Hirsch is wildly expensive, otherwise it might become addictive. High maintenance and worth every penny.

Knob Creek 9 Year Old (100 Proof/$35)

Amber with a copper hue. Quite popular and with good reason. Medium- to full-bodied, with aromatics ranging from orange zest to dried fruits, from caramel to chocolate. One of the best “food bourbons” due to the balance of spice, fruit and the vanilla overtones of new oak.

Maker’s Mark Old Style Sour Mash (90 Proof/$30)

“Maker’s” raised the bar for all of Kentucky’s bourbon distillers. The ideal introduction to the world of hand-crafted bourbon. Natives of Kentucky living in new environs would beg their relatives and friends to pack some in their luggage when they visited, so the expatriates could have a taste of home and palatal patrimony. Distributed on a national basis for only about the last 25 years. The real deal.

Maker’s Mark Select Straight Bourbon Whisky, Black Label (95 Proof/$85)

Wonderfully powerful. The nose reminds me of Grand Marnier, with its inebriated orange and vanilla bouquet. Very spicy, with overtones of clove, allspice, and a touch of nutmeg. The finish is lasting and complex, and I swear I can taste the character of the limestone-laden and calcium-rich waters of Kentucky.

Noah’s Mill 15 Year Old (96 Proof/$60)

All amber and copper, Noah’s presents a candied/chocolate ginger snap nose, with an underlying flintiness/minerality. I would be happy just to smell this bourbon, but I would deny myself the sensual mouth-feel, the softness on the palate. No shrinking violet, Noah’s tastes vital; all nuts, spice and fruit. Its finish is broad, satisfying and complex.

Old Rip Van Winkle 23 Year Old Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve (95.6 Proof/$175)

You can buy the excellent 90 Proof 20 Year Old for half the money, but if you can find this gem (4,300 bottles produced in 2003), and nearly afford it, splurge. This bourbon has what I can only call “wisdom,” its age has created a beauty of a mahogany color in a complex nexus of candy, dried fruits and cigar box aromas. The attack on the palate is tea-tannic, but spreads out in a sea of complexity to finish with sweetness, length, balance and what appears to be true terroir of bourbon. Perhaps it is partially the wheat in the mash bill that makes it so unique.

Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select (90.4 Proof/$35)

“Everything that’s old is new again” should be Woodford’s motto. Louisville’s own wine-and-spirits giant, Brown-Forman rescued the old Labrot & Graham distillery in Millville, and installed copper pot stills shipped from Scotland. The only bourbon produced in a true pot still in very small batches. On the market only since 2001, the bourbon ages for six years in barrel before release. This is heady stuff: full-bodied, smooth, rich and extremely viscous. A bourbon for hedonists and pleasure seekers. Fleshy, sensual, round and warm. Flavors reminiscent of dates dipped in vanilla sauce and caramel. Tasting Woodford Reserve sent a welcome shiver down my back.