“I am a burger fanatic,” he said. “My most memorable has to be the one I would get when I was eight years old spending our summers on the beach in Montauk. This was in front of Gurneys Inn. They called it the Gurney Burger and it was served on an English muffin. I have had others, but that was a burger memory.”

For the AP’s 20 Burgers of Summer series, Perry Lang offered up a basic burger — nearly a half-pounder — topped with caramelized onions spiked with chipotle chilies and Monterey Jack cheese.

GRIDDLED AND GRILLED MONTEREY JACK CHEESE BURGERS WITH SPICY CHIPOTLE CARAMELIZED ONIONS AND CILANTRO 

Servings: 6

“It was a short leap then to add the piquancy of a Cabrales blue (cheese), which complements the beef component of the burger,” she said. “Can you say ‘party on my plate’?”

Martinez is a big believer in big flavor in her burgers, and over the years says she has enjoyed many variations, including ones made from Kobe beef and seafood, even veggie varieties. But in the end, her blueprint for a great burger goes back to her childhood.

“Some of my fondest hamburger memories involve making homemade patties with my dad when I was little. He would season them with salt, fresh ground pepper and onion powder, then we would grill them over charcoal briquettes in our backyard, and the result was a slightly charred burger on the outside that was pink and juicy on the inside,” she said.

For the topping, it was beefsteak tomatoes and lettuce fresh from her mother’s garden, as well as her “salsa golf” (a mayo-ketchup blend).

“That was a little bit of heaven, right there on our plate,” she said. “Nothing compares to the burgers of my youth, made with love by Mom and Dad.”

BARCELONA BURGER

Start to Finish: 35 minutes

Servings: 4

1 pound ground beef

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1/2 cup mayonnaise

Zest of 1 lemon

1/2 cup water

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 large Spanish onions, halved and thinly sliced

4 fresh figs, halved

4 large hamburger buns

1/4 pound Cabrales or other blue cheese, crumbled

1/4 pound serrano ham, thinly sliced (prosciutto also can be used)

Form the beef into 4 equal patties, then season each with salt and pepper. Set aside.

In a small bowl, stir the mayonnaise with the lemon zest. Set aside.

In a large skillet over high, add the water, olive oil and onions. Cook until the water is completely evaporated, then reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and completely caramelized. Season with salt and pepper, then set aside.

Heat a grill to medium-high. Coat the grates with cooking spray.

Place the beef patties on the grill, cover and cook for about 3 1/2 minutes per side for medium-rare.

Season the figs with pepper, then place on the grill cut-side up. Place the buns on the grill cut-side up, as well. Sprinkle the bottom halves of the buns with the blue cheese. Cover the grill and cook for 1 minute.

To assemble, place each beef patty on a bun half with the melted cheese. Top with 2 slices of ham, 2 grilled fig halves and a dollop of the caramelized onions. Spread the remaining toasted bun halves with lemon mayonnaise, then top the burger.

Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest whole number): 658 calories; 333 calories from fat; 37 g fat (11 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 104 mg cholesterol; 44 g carbohydrate; 39 g protein; 3 g fiber; 1,381 mg sodium.

That said, I’ve also had the good fortune to both grow up in what Said Food Editor calls “mayonnaise America” and spend chunks of my life, including part of my childhood, in China, appreciating the tapestry of food there and missing it desperately when I’m home.

Then one day, Said Food Editor came to me and barked, “Make me a burger. Make me remember it.” And it dawned on me: Why not take the best peppery, pungent, garlicky tastes of the street stalls of Sichuan (that’s how we obnoxious China hands spell “Szechwan,” the province where blunt-force cooking reigns) and transplant them into the American backyard burger?

Here’s my attempt — “Old Chengdu Snack Burgers.” Purists might grouse, “Well, there’s pork in it, so it’s not a burger.” With pork being the national meat of China, to them I say only this: “Huanyingnidaoquanqiuhua, pengyou.” (Welcome to globalization, buddy.)

OLD CHENGDU SNACK BURGERS

These burgers pack punch. You’ll need a moderately high tolerance of heat to appreciate them. It’s also a good idea to cook them outside on the grill (as the recipe directs); the fumes from the peppercorns and chilies can be intense. If you mix the meat and seasonings by hand, consider wearing rubber gloves. The spicy ingredients can leave your hands tingling.

Servings: 12

The greatness of a burger depends almost entirely on the quality of the meat. And because cattle were intended to eat only grass, he says the best burgers come from those who ate only that. Once he has his beef, he still likes to dress it up a bit.

“Once cooked to your liking, pairing this meat with cheese and butter from grass-fed dairy cattle adds a depth of additional richness that takes the burger closer to the promised land,” he said. “And of course, what would a good sustainable burger be without the deep, tomato-y sweetness of locally grown, vine-ripened heirloom tomatoes?”

Which is to say, if you want to taste Nischan’s ultimate eco burger, you’ll need to shop close to home, searching out local sources for the very best ingredients. It also means that every burger will be different, the tastes influenced by the variations in the land and animals that produced the ingredients.

“Let’s bring back Main Street America by cooking a good sustainable burger,” he said. “The immediate reward is flavor. The ultimate reward is a better world!”

THE ULTIMATE ECO-BURGER

Servings: 4

Except the meat, that is.

“So what we did was we looked at their burgers carefully and studied the proportions, and then of course did the same thing, but with great meat,” he said. “We’re using sirloin mostly, but it’s the fat content and ratio of fat to meat that is very important.”

And don’t forget a great bun. Ripert favored a fresh challah bun for his perfect burger.

Westend Bistro Burger
Serves: 4