New N.Y. Times opinion columnist is … a food writer
Mark Bittman debuts with a food manifesto for our future. It's way too big a subject, and it's perfect
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The New York Times’ Opinion pages welcomed a new columnist today, and he’s … a food writer. We can save the discussion for what this means for our national dialogue on food for later; right now, I want to point you to Mark Bittman and his inaugural column, titled no less ambitiously than “A Food Manifesto for the Future.” It’s a nine-point plan to save us from our fast, cheap and out-of-control eating selves, and he might be the perfect person to write it.
A few years ago, Bittman was in a TV commercial. Goofy words flashed on the screen: “BIG DEAL FOOD WRITER” and under them, the man who normally exudes an utterly casual confidence looked nonplussed. They had him leaning in a weird way, a way that was supposed to suggest a level of informality, but only made him look, unfortunately, like he couldn’t stand up straight while he was singing the praises of the product.
What I’m saying is that the man who spent a dozen years writing a wildly popular column called “The Minimalist” is visibly uncomfortable with bull. His great talent is to make good cooking and good food seem totally natural, totally simple and totally understandable. (“The Minimalist” is still my girlfriend’s all-time favorite food column. Ahem.) But I don’t begrudge him the success; no one else I can think of can pull off a newspaper story — a newspaper story, not a book — called “101 meals ready in 10 minutes” and have it make sense, let alone read well and taste great. True to the column’s name, he boils down cooking to its minimal essentials. He reduces without dumbing down.

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