Salon.com > Francis Lam http://www.salon.com Sun, 19 May 2013 22:00:00 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 What makes sushi great? http://www.salon.com/2012/03/14/sushi_gilttaste/ http://www.salon.com/2012/03/14/sushi_gilttaste/#comments Wed, 14 Mar 2012 00:00:00 +0000 http://www.origin.railrode.net/?p=12672341 A friend of mine once met a delegation of revered Japanese chefs. There was a wizened gentleman among them who was clearly the leader. He spoke little, but the other star chefs deferred to him, paid him obvious respect. My friend finally asked, quietly, “So, what does the old guy do?” The response: “He has mastered rice.”

GiltTasteTo be honest, I don’t know what that means. I mean, I know the difference between a pot of rice that I like eating and a pot that’s gluey, but there aren’t a whole lot of points between the two. And yet here is a man whose claim to fame among master chefs is that he makes rice better than the rest of them, and to accept that is to accept that there is a level of cooking that most of us will never comprehend. At some point, cooking is not a matter of skill; it’s a matter of understanding, of learning to see the differences between one perfectly good pot of rice and another, of the minute details in something that, for most anyone else, is pure pearly blandness. Truly great cooking is, in this way, first an act of learning to see, and then a striving to do. This is why, among chefs, the truism is that simple food is hard.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2012/03/14/sushi_gilttaste/feed/ 15 Is the signature dish outdated? http://www.salon.com/2011/05/26/jason_franey_duck/ http://www.salon.com/2011/05/26/jason_franey_duck/#comments Thu, 26 May 2011 20:45:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2011/05/26/jason_franey_duck On the subject of duck, I confess that I am a chauvinist. There is the one, true way to prepare it -- roasted, Chinatown style -- and there is everything else. But the young chef Jason Franey's version at the Seattle landmark Canlis is making me reconsider my prejudices. Brown as bourbon, the skin is like a crust, bowing over the breast, hugging it jealously. It crackles somewhere between crisp and crunch, a little like puffed rice, before dissolving into honey sweetness and black pepper heat. The meat has that deep, bass-note richness you want from duck, but is thick with flavors I can't place: complex, swirling, delirious-making.

It was early spring and it was a dish very much of the moment, the bird served with wilted ramps, spring onions, pearl onions and a sauce of cream infused with onions. A few baby spring turnips. All things with bite, mellowed by youth and cooking. As I ate, I thought, "What makes duck more delicious than onions?" And also this: "In a few weeks, when spring is gone, this dish won't be here anymore."

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/05/26/jason_franey_duck/feed/ 29 A brilliant chef’s potato crisps http://www.salon.com/2011/04/09/michel_bras_potato_crisps/ http://www.salon.com/2011/04/09/michel_bras_potato_crisps/#comments Sat, 09 Apr 2011 01:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/04/08/michel_bras_potato_crisps In my very first piece for Salon -- if you don't count our little Salon Food birth announcement -- I wrote about discovering a hero in the chef Michel Bras. I'd never met him, never eaten his food. All I knew of him was from a movie, a decade-old documentary in which he sometimes struggles to articulate in words what it is that inspires him, but also in which he beautifully articulates his philosophy and character in the way he cooks -- with respect, humility and curiosity. Watching him handle and hold the vegetables he's cutting is a marvel; you're watching a sense of wonder made physical.

I realize that sounds kind of laughable. But then again, how is it that a man whose signature dish is, essentially, a salad can be regarded as one of the greatest chefs in the world?

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/04/09/michel_bras_potato_crisps/feed/ 97 Michel Bras’ potato crisps recipe http://www.salon.com/2011/04/09/michel_bras_potato_crisps_recipe/ http://www.salon.com/2011/04/09/michel_bras_potato_crisps_recipe/#comments Sat, 09 Apr 2011 01:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/recipes/2011/04/08/michel_bras_potato_crisps_recipe Adapted from "Essential Cuisine" by Michel Bras

Ingredients

  • Potatoes, starchy, like russets. About one medium-sized potato per baking sheet tray works.
  • Good olive oil or clarified butter, as needed
  • Salt, to taste

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 275 F.
  2. Peel the potatoes, and slice them lengthwise as thin as possible. I use a mandoline for this, one of those $20 Japanese babies, and cut them about 1 millimeter (1/25th of an inch) thin. In a pinch, you can improvise with a potato peeler; just use it to cut wide ribbons from the spud.
  3. Lay parchment paper or a Silpat (silicon baking sheet) on a baking tray. Brush it lightly with oil or clarified butter.
  4. Lay the potato slices in rows on the tray, overlapping the slices by about 1/3, to form long, shingled ribbons. Brush them lightly with oil or clarified butter.
  5. Bake, rotating after 20 minutes if your oven isn't perfectly even, until the potatoes are a rich golden brown, crisp and translucent. Pale splotches are OK, in fact, they provide for an interesting textural contrast -- a little less crisp, a little chewy. The only trick is to bake them long enough that the paler spots are cooked through and not rubbery, approaching crispness, about 45 minutes. When done, lightly salt them and let them cool a bit on the pan, and serve immediately or store in an airtight container. If they get a little stale, refresh them in a warm oven.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/04/09/michel_bras_potato_crisps_recipe/feed/ 0 Spam four-way: Broiled, sauteed, poached and braised http://www.salon.com/2011/04/06/spam_five_ways_taste_test/ http://www.salon.com/2011/04/06/spam_five_ways_taste_test/#comments Wed, 06 Apr 2011 18:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/04/06/spam_five_ways_taste_test Is there a food more widely mocked than Spam? Its name was long rumored to stand for Stuff Posing as Meat. It's synonymous with Internet junk. (No, kids, they didn't name the canned pig after banking offers from dispossessed Nigerian millionaires. It was the other way around.) And well before there were ironic visits to the Spam Museum, comedy crossed into Spamland with Monty Python's famous Viking Spam sketch:

But for all the mockery, I'd always assumed that we only kid because we love. I mean, everyone grew up on Spam, right?

Right?

Turns out, no. In fact, in the office yesterday we asked if anyone had actually never tried Spam ... and the uninitiated doubled the deflowered. Where's the love for tinned luncheon meat? For the meat-ish loaf that dare not speak its name?

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/04/06/spam_five_ways_taste_test/feed/ 58 Lemon icebox pie: A gift from the fates http://www.salon.com/2011/04/02/lemon_icebox_pie_recipe/ http://www.salon.com/2011/04/02/lemon_icebox_pie_recipe/#comments Sat, 02 Apr 2011 01:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/04/01/lemon_icebox_pie_recipe There are some recipes you work for, that you earn -- the ones you butter up a neighbor for, that you learn while getting hammered on the line at a restaurant. There are ones that are your cultural inheritance, and the ones that come through your bloodlines (which, depending on your family, might also mean that you suffered enough to deserve them). And then there are the ones that come to you like sweet destiny, like a flower borne in air, like a sudden, raunchy late-night call from someone you thought you'd never get to make out with again. You didn't work for it, you might not even deserve it, but here it is and there you are.

Martha Foose's Lemon Icebox Pie is that recipe for me.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/04/02/lemon_icebox_pie_recipe/feed/ 41 Is the rise of food prices all bad? http://www.salon.com/2011/04/01/rising_food_prices/ http://www.salon.com/2011/04/01/rising_food_prices/#comments Fri, 01 Apr 2011 00:30:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/31/rising_food_prices Slayers of elitists and other warriors of the downtrodden: Look! I bare my throat to you, fleshy and fat and ripe for the kill. But before you draw your blade, let's talk about this for a minute. Is the increasing cost of food in America an entirely bad thing?

A recent report in the New York Times announced that American grocery store "shoppers are paying the same amount, but getting less," and proceeded to quote a woman whose three-box pasta dinner for her large family didn't quite satisfy. She only later realized it was because those boxes now contain 13.5 ounces of noodles, not 16.

The report goes on to catalog other shrinkages: cans of tuna going from 6 ounces to 5; buckets of ice cream going from 2 liters to 1 ½; orange juice from 64 ounces to 59, et cetera, et cetera, et cetera.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/04/01/rising_food_prices/feed/ 84 Durian: The King of Fruits is an angry king http://www.salon.com/2011/03/30/durian_taste_test/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/30/durian_taste_test/#comments Wed, 30 Mar 2011 18:31:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/30/durian_taste_test Durian. Oh, durian. You can't read anything about the heavy, spiky tropical fruit without finding out that "many people in Southeast Asia call it the King of Fruits," but who are these people? And, more important, why do we assume that the Fruit King is a kind and benevolent ruler, and not, say, a violent, power-mad, empire-obsessed tyrant? Because it is.

It's a fruit whose aroma is so strong, so lingering, so reportedly similar to a gym-full of old socks (if you're lucky) or an unearthed cadaver (if you're not), it pushes all else aside when it enters the room. You will know if there is a durian present, and sooner or later, no matter where you go in the house, it will have taken over.

Airlines won't let you fly with it, Singapore's mass transit won't let you ride with it, and at least one hospital in the Philippines won't let you bring it in, even for a final wish.

And now I'm about to eat it.

I have, to be honest, avoided durian for years. I don't have many food hangups, but certain things stick with you, and my dad's wild-eyed terror of the stuff is so acute I developed a sympathetic fear of it myself.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/30/durian_taste_test/feed/ 44 Mussels: Your go-to sustainable seafood http://www.salon.com/2011/03/26/how_to_cook_mussels/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/26/how_to_cook_mussels/#comments Sat, 26 Mar 2011 00:30:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/25/how_to_cook_mussels Sometimes, this is the kind of chatter you hear in a coffee shop in Fancy Brooklyn:

Man 1: "Well, how are we going to drive home the point that sustainable seafood is good? I think I should have, like, five to seven minutes to talk about it before we serve."

Man 2: "You're going to have to do all the talking while I cook. I have to focus on the food while I cook. Don't let people bother me."

Woman: "I think mussels. We have to do mussels. They're responsibly farmed, and they carry around their own sauce. They're perfect."

Man 1: "OK, but will we serve wine too? Or is just the lecture and the food enough?"

Aren't you sad you didn't get an invitation to the World's Most Sanctimonious Dinner Party? I am. I want to know what gets served for dessert at a soiree like this.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/26/how_to_cook_mussels/feed/ 21 Steamed mussels recipe http://www.salon.com/2011/03/26/steamed_mussels_recipe/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/26/steamed_mussels_recipe/#comments Sat, 26 Mar 2011 00:30:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/recipes/2011/03/25/steamed_mussels_recipe

Ingredients

  • Aromatics, sliced or chopped, to taste (garlic, onion, shallots, ginger, lemongrass, chilies, bacon, salami, you name it. Just make sure it's tasty stuff.)
  • ½ cup wine, beer, juice, or whatever liquid you'd like (use more for a brothier dish, but the mussels themselves will release a lot of juice)
  • 2 pounds mussels, cleaned (see above)
  • Herbs, chopped (parsley, thyme, rosemary or others) or other delicate flavor additions, to taste (orange zest? A little more raw shallot?)
  • Butter, cream, olive oil, ground nuts or other finishing touch to enrich the broth, to taste
  • Lemon, vinegar or some kind of tart flavoring, to taste, if your liquid isn't very bright
  • Salt and pepper, to taste (mussels do tend to be salty, so this might not be necessary)

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/26/steamed_mussels_recipe/feed/ 1 Salon’s Great Coffee Art contest http://www.salon.com/2011/03/25/latte_art/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/25/latte_art/#comments Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2011/03/25/latte_art Update: So sorry if the entry you sent to coffee@salon.com bounced back. Everything's fixed! Please give it another shot.

Latte art, pouring "textured" milk into espresso to create designs -- and in some cases full drawings -- is one of the branches of the barista's discipline. We've enjoyed our milky coffees topped with hearts, roses and leaf shapes for years, but a recent smiley bear face finally got all of Salon to wonder, How does that work?

"The point is to learn to control everything at the coffee bar -- the beans, the roast, the right grind, the water, the timing, the machine -- everything. So part of that means learning how milk behaves, and how to control it," says Ken Nye, owner of Ninth Street Espresso, and the man many credit with popularizing latte art in New York City.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/25/latte_art/feed/ 11 Taco Bell’s shrimp burritos: Fishily delicious! http://www.salon.com/2011/03/23/taco_bell_pacific_shrimp_burrito_taste_test/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/23/taco_bell_pacific_shrimp_burrito_taste_test/#comments Wed, 23 Mar 2011 18:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/23/taco_bell_pacific_shrimp_burrito_taste_test This is a phrase you don't ever hear, but: I just read the most amazing press release. It's from Taco Bell, it's touting its new Pacific Shrimp Burritos, and it starts like this:

CRASHING HIGH END PARTIES JUST FOR THE SHRIMP?

TACO BELL TELLS SHRIMP CRASHERS TO DROP THE TUX AND TRY ITS SEASONAL PACIFIC SHRIMP TACOS AND BURRITOS

That's right, people! Ditch the tails and top hat you throw on every time you have a desire for ... the most commonly eaten seafood in America. (Er, it turns out Americans have eaten more shrimp than canned tuna since 2001. But that's because WE ARE ALL MILLIONAIRES ALL THE TIME YEAH!) Maybe I'm taking this sales pitch too literally! Let's keep reading:

The Rich Taste of Succulent Shrimp Returns to Taco Bell Without the Pricey Cost

It's no longer just about who you know - but knowing where to go. Starting this week, everyday foodies craving succulent shrimp can look past the nearest yacht party or invite-only gala, and turn to Taco Bell® for its Pacific Shrimp Taco and NEW Pacific Shrimp Burrito. Filled with tasty ingredients and shrimp marinated with chipotle seasonings, the limited-time menu items will satisfy mouth-watering hunger for shrimp - all while offering red-carpet taste for less green.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/23/taco_bell_pacific_shrimp_burrito_taste_test/feed/ 33 How to brown butter, and bake it into brownies http://www.salon.com/2011/03/12/browned_butter_brownies/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/12/browned_butter_brownies/#comments Sat, 12 Mar 2011 01:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/11/browned_butter_brownies Today, we're going to talk about how to clarify and brown butter, but before we start, let's take a look at what's actually in butter. "Wait, what's in butter? Isn't butter just butter?" Pipe down, kids, we're about to talk about it. And no one likes it when you shout your questions just to make yourself look smart, Stanley.

So: If you look on the nutrition facts label of standard unsalted butter, you'll see that in one tablespoon (14 grams) of the stuff, there are 11 grams of fat. A little quick division, and you see that only about 73 percent of the butter is fat. (Actually, that's not correct either, since butter legally has to be 80 percent fat or more, but accepted rounding in the math lets the label show less fat, so as not to scare consumers.)

Anyway, the point is this: There's a lot in butter that's not butterfat. The vast majority of that is water, and then there are milk solids, which are mainly sugars and proteins. Normally, all those elements are emulsified together, but you see them break apart when you heat it -- ever notice how butter sizzles in a hot pan? That's the water boiling furiously out of it. That foaming? That's a mix of proteins trying to hold onto water that's desperately trying to escape. And then, of course, there's the browning.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/12/browned_butter_brownies/feed/ 27 Brown butter brownies recipe http://www.salon.com/2011/03/12/browned_butter_brownies_2/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/12/browned_butter_brownies_2/#comments Sat, 12 Mar 2011 01:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/recipes/2011/03/11/browned_butter_brownies Modified from Alice Medrich, published in Bon Appetit, Feb. 2011

Makes 16 brownies

Ingredients

  • 2½ sticks of unsalted butter (Don't freak out! You'll only really use half of it.)
  • 1 cup sugar
  • ¾ cup unsweetened cocoa powder (you'd be amazed at how much difference there is in cocoa powders; get a good quality one)
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 teaspoons water
  • 2 large eggs, cold
  • 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup walnuts, lightly toasted

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/12/browned_butter_brownies_2/feed/ 0 Energy drink taste test: Buzz buzz! http://www.salon.com/2011/03/09/energy_drink_taste_test/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/09/energy_drink_taste_test/#comments Wed, 09 Mar 2011 19:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/09/energy_drink_taste_test Roughly 10 years ago, in armchair zoologist mode, I spied a new nocturnal species walking the streets of New York: the Red Bull drinker (Taurusruber doucheus). The males of the species were strongly built, with bulging chests and stiff hair. The females were apparently impervious to cold, and required little covering even in February. They roamed in packs, making screeching noises to frighten away predators and attract mates, and seemed to need only cans of Red Bull for sustenance.

I actually remember being handed a Red Bull at a party around then, taking a sip, and giving it back, thinking that I wanted to go out to have a good time, not to be punished. But apparently I wasn't on to something, because sales of energy drinks busted wide open, exploding 900 percent since then, to over $9 billion projected for 2011, even as doctors fret about what the hell is actually in this stuff.

(Here's a discouraging sign: "Because the beverages are classified as nutritional supplements, they have received much less scrutiny and are under fewer restrictions than both foods and drugs." Gee, yay!)

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/09/energy_drink_taste_test/feed/ 24 Grant Achatz, the superstar chef who couldn’t taste http://www.salon.com/2011/03/08/grant_achatz_interview/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/08/grant_achatz_interview/#comments Tue, 08 Mar 2011 16:30:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/08/grant_achatz_interview At some point during my first meal at Grant Achatz's restaurant Alinea, I started giggling. There had been no joke -- I just started giggling. Soon, I was bouncing up and down in my seat, laughing almost uncontrollably, and then suddenly teetered on the edge where I didn't know if I might start crying. I was, as they say, emotional, and I couldn't exactly say why. Three years later, I returned with my special ladyfriend, and, at some point during our dinner, she took a bite, skipped the giggling, and just started crying. And looking around the room, we were not the only ones to feel this way. I don't use this word lightly, but it takes a genius to create meals like that.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/08/grant_achatz_interview/feed/ 12 Is it racist to ban shark’s fin soup? http://www.salon.com/2011/03/07/sharks_fin_soup_ban/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/07/sharks_fin_soup_ban/#comments Mon, 07 Mar 2011 15:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/07/sharks_fin_soup_ban My Chinese grandfather was well into the latter part of his life when he made some money. He'd brought his children up on bowls of white rice with soy sauce and maybe a little pat of lard if he was feeling flush. And so, when it was time to feed his grandchildren, he loved that he could feed them the good stuff, the expensive stuff. I remember him being happy to see my grade school straight-A report cards, but the grins he showed me then were dwarfed by the supernova smiles he'd flash when I ate with him, precociously enjoying shark's fin soup and other delicacies cousins my age were studiously avoiding at the kids' table. And so I wonder what he'd think of the movement to ban shark's fin.

Following in Hawaii's footsteps, Washington, Oregon and, most significantly, California have introduced statewide legislation that would make it illegal -- and highly fineable -- to serve or even possess shark's fin. (Hawaii's law calls for fines of $5,000 to $15,000 for even first-time offenders.)

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/07/sharks_fin_soup_ban/feed/ 122 How to make cream-of-anything soup http://www.salon.com/2011/03/05/how_to_make_cream_soups/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/05/how_to_make_cream_soups/#comments Sat, 05 Mar 2011 02:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/04/how_to_make_cream_soups I know it's embarrassingly old fashioned, but I've always loved "cream of" soups. And while we're being honest, it's never even really mattered too much to me what came after the "cream of," because I'm really just in it for that floating, haunting richness, that deep savoriness, that smooth, velvety feeling on my tongue. If I end up getting some broccoli or asparagus or whatever in my system while I'm at it, well hey -- winning!

But cream-ofs rarely get people excited anymore. Maybe it's because they seem a little too Miss Daisy? Or because it's hard to come back into the fold once you've opened a red-labeled can of the stuff and watched it fall, in gloopy chunks, into your casserole dish? Or maybe because every cafeteria has a tub of some poor, misbegotten cream-of sitting somewhere, hot and gluey, tasting like milk and flour and sadness?

Well, imagine for a minute a better place, a happy place, where cream-ofs are lively and vibrant, where they have real flavor and a texture that's smooth and satisfying, not leaden and semisolid. That happy place is in your pot, and it's easier than you might realize. You don't really even need a recipe.

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/05/how_to_make_cream_soups/feed/ 33 Cream of anything soup recipe http://www.salon.com/2011/03/05/how_to_make_cream_soups_2/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/05/how_to_make_cream_soups_2/#comments Sat, 05 Mar 2011 02:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/recipes/2011/03/04/how_to_make_cream_soups Adapted from "The Professional Chef," 7th edition, Culinary Institute of America

Serves 4-6 as an appetizer (about 1 quart of soup)

Ingredients

  • 1 pound broccoli (or whatever -- asparagus, mushrooms, celery, lettuce, cauliflower, chicken, carrot, peas, you get the picture), roughly chopped
  • ½ cup chopped onion (about 2 ounces, or ½ of a small onion)
  • 1 stalk celery, chopped
  • Aromatics of your choice -- garlic, shallots, ginger, scallions, chilies etc.
  • 3 tablespoons butter or vegetable oil
  • 3 - 4 tablespoons flour
  • 2 cups (plus more as needed) chicken, vegetable, or other kind of stock
  • ¼ - ½ cup heavy cream
  • Salt and pepper to taste

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]]> http://www.salon.com/2011/03/05/how_to_make_cream_soups_2/feed/ 0 Toys that really cooked http://www.salon.com/2011/03/03/toys_that_make_edible_food/ http://www.salon.com/2011/03/03/toys_that_make_edible_food/#comments Thu, 03 Mar 2011 20:15:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2011/03/03/toys_that_make_edible_food With the sad-making news last week that the Easy-Bake Oven as we know it will be going to the Great Incinerator in the Sky, we here at Salon Food started reminiscing over our own toy food memories. There were the Easy-Bake knockoff Chuck E. Cheese pizza ovens, there were the heartbreakingly dear Snoopy Sno Cones, there were the furiously lame Queasy-Bake Cookerator Dip n' Drool Dog Bones.

It wasn't long, then, before Aviva Shen, editorial fellow extraordinaire, realized that you could put together a whole menu of toy-made foods: "Basically," she said, looking at dozens of Easy-Bake bootlegs, including one that grilled hamburgers, "if a child had to survive on toy oven food alone, they could do it ... though they would quickly develop diabetes."

Bah! A small price to pay for self-reliance! And probably no more dangerous than giving hormone-charged 17-year-olds keys to thousands of pounds of rocketing steel. (Probably.) So we scoured history to find the finest play-date victuals. Please, sit back and enjoy our menu of toy-made foods.

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