Salon.com > Greg Higgins http://www.salon.com Thu, 23 May 2013 22:49:02 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 A rapscallion’s holiday http://www.salon.com/2009/12/22/greg_higgins_clark_wolf_holiday_truffles/ http://www.salon.com/2009/12/22/greg_higgins_clark_wolf_holiday_truffles/#comments Tue, 22 Dec 2009 18:01:00 +0000 http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2009/12/22/greg_higgins_clark_wolf_holiday_truffles We asked members of our Kitchen Cabinet to briefly share some of their holiday memories with us, and we're sharing them with you all this week. Today we're celebrating with fabulous foods, be they wholesomely found or more ill-gotten.

From Clark Wolf, food and restaurant consultant:

It was the indulgent start to an excessive decade: 1980, and who knew that wild arugula and padded shoulders were just round the corner? So nice that only one of those endured.

We were working to open a new outpost of the legendary Oakville Grocery, and a small group of us gathered in a Napa Valley farmhouse to rob the very larder we were stocking.

I’d arranged for geese to be raised for us nearby, secured major quantities of Italian white truffles, and gathered quail eggs and a slab of illegally imported foie gras large enough to clog international arteries.

We rendered the duck, gathering and straining the fat so we could pan fry sourdough crostini, scramble the quail eggs (kept overnight in a jar with the truffles to absorb their aroma) to go on top, then gilded that lily with a slash of foie gras and generous scrapings of more white truffle.

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