China
Throwing eggs at “Mr. Democracy”
After losing the election, Taiwanese Nationalists blame their party's leader for betraying the unification dream modern Taiwan has already abandoned.
Wedged between two phalanxes of club-wielding riot police with a small group of protesters waving Nationalist flags Tuesday, it was difficult not to reflect on — if only fleetingly — just how far Taiwan had come since martial law was lifted 13 years ago.
Those 13 years have seen a blossoming of native Taiwanese culture and self-identity. And they have culminated in this: the spectacle of Nationalist supporters being doused off the streets of Taipei by water cannons. Not so long ago, it would have been almost unthinkable that supporters of the world’s longest-serving and richest party would find themselves battling with police on the streets of Taipei.
But then a week ago in Taiwan, few people imagined that the pro-independence Democratic Progressive Party’s Chen Shui-bian was going to win Saturday’s presidential election.
Win he did. Nationalist elements promptly called foul. Their problem was not the election result in itself, but the failure of President and Nationalist Party Chairman Lee Teng-hui to team up with the breakaway independent presidential candidate and man of the people, James Soong. That failure fissured the Nationalist vote and denied what Nationalist Party supporters see as its historic right to rule. Having first lost China, now the Nationalists had lost Taiwan, too.
After days of demonstrations, Lee made a surprise announcement late Thursday afternoon giving in to the crowds’ demands that he step down from his position as party chairman. He said he would do so as of Friday. The startling announcement means the party’s leadership and its estimated $30 billion in assets are now up for grabs. Many expect that Soong will soon step in to take Lee’s place.
For the older generation of Taiwanese, many of whom came over from China, the new sense of place and cultural identity that has emerged with Taiwan’s democratization over the past decade has been a slow strangulation of the old Nationalist dream: reunification with China, with the Nationalists running the government. And if the dream has been slowly dying, last Saturday’s election was its death knell.
Crowds took little time in assembling and spattering the Nationalist headquarters with eggs (throwing eggs is a traditional Chinese act of protest; when you tell someone to “fuck off” in Chinese you literally tell them to “roll away like an egg”) and scrawling anti-Lee Teng-hui graffiti on its walls. “Betrayal” was the word being bandied about on the streets, as protesters denounced Lee. “Mr. Democracy,” in their books, is the agent not only of a gradual domestication of the Nationalist agenda but now the disintegration of the Nationalist Party itself.
Soong supporters said Lee had lost on purpose. Like most old-guard Nationalists, Soong is a mainlander, but Lee is a native Taiwanese. Lee’s sentiments, the argument ran, were secretly with the pro-independence camp and it was his mission to destroy the party from within. The crowds who have been demonstrating on the streets for three days now want Lee to step down immediately from his position as party chairman. He has promised to step down in September.
“No wonder Lee Teng-hui didn’t get a Nobel Peace Prize,” screamed a middle-aged woman at me as police jostled us forward through a corridor of Plexiglas shields, the lumbering sound of the water-cannon trucks rolling into position close by. “This isn’t peaceful!”
But then, given the occasion, it is perhaps reasonable to wonder whether a completely peaceful transition of power was ever likely. Saturday’s election “overturned the heavens,” as the Chinese say. Nothing will be quite the same again in Taiwan.
For a 58-year-old protester surnamed Liu and other Nationalist supporters, the end of the Nationalist era in Taiwan is an almost inconceivable event. Lui broke off from screaming, “Step down, Lee” to fling his arms out at the serried ranks of police just feet away from us and shout, “They’re just like the Communists!”
This is the party that for decades told the people of Taiwan that it was their destiny to reclaim China. (It was only in 1991 that the Nationalists formally gave up their vow to retake the mainland by force.)
In contemporary Taiwan, the country’s claim on China sounds slightly absurd, even a little quaint. But the identity of many of the older generation and of some of their children is still shaped by a fierce sense that Taiwan is an inalienable part of China, and that its people are Chinese cut off from their roots. Taiwan has many an anecdotal tale of embittered old men who desert their Taiwanese families to return with their savings as “compatriots” to the mainland families they were separated from half a century ago.
Among the chanting crowd outside the barbed wire that now surrounds the Nationalist headquarters, Liu Chin-hua, a cab driver who claims to be a Nationalist Party member of 30 years, says: “Mr. Lee just wants Taiwan to be independent. He hates the Chinese.”
Whether such claims are true or not, it’s a fact that without Lee the DPP could never have scored the victory it did Saturday. Lee, who took over the leadership of the party in 1988 with Soong’s help, has presided over a widespread liberalization of Taiwan society.
The anger on the streets of Taipei about Lee’s perceived complicity in what could very well be the imminent collapse of his party is just the tip of the iceberg, as behind the scenes a fratricidal conflict looms over the party’s political power and vast wealth. There’s fear of China, too.
“We don’t want to go to war,” a middle-aged man surnamed Chang shouted to me over a tumult of blaring trumpets and chants for Lee to step down. “Our parents and grandparents died in wars. We don’t want conflict.”
But few people think war is likely — at least in the short term. The test will be for Chen Shui-bian to remain conciliatory with China and for China to come to terms with a new political order in Taiwan.
To a certain extent the Taipei protests have been tinged with nostalgia, as oldsters break out into renditions of Nationalist-era songs and brandish their Nationalist flags. The Chinese leadership, too, will no doubt feel some nostalgia for its near century-old enemy in the days to come.
The Chinese Communist Party and the Nationalists were at odds with each other for most of the 20th century, but at least they wanted the same thing: to govern all of greater China in their own right. In effect they agreed to disagree under the banner of a reunified China. With the Nationalists dethroned and fractured, China is confronted with a new Taiwan governed by a party that, no matter how conciliatory it sounds, has no truck with the Nationalist dream.
In a poll taken after the elections Saturday, 56 percent of Taiwanese said they were happy with the result. Meanwhile, as I write this at 1 a.m., the protesters (now in the hundreds rather than thousands) continue their standoff with riot police, unable to quite let go.
Chris Taylor is the author or co-author of the Lonely Planet guides to China, Tibet and Japan, and of the Insider's guides to Nepal and China. He has also written for the Asian Wall Street Journal, the Daily Telegraph and the Australian. He lives in Taiwan. More Chris Taylor.
America’s great divergence
The new innovation economy is making some cities richer, many cities poorer -- and it's transforming our country
(Credit: karamysh via Shutterstock) Menlo Park is a lively community in the heart of Silicon Valley, just minutes from Stanford University’s manicured campus and many of the Valley’s most dynamic high-tech companies. Surrounded by some of the wealthiest zip codes in California, its streets are lined with an eclectic mix of midcentury ranch houses side by side with newly built mini-mansions and low-rise apartment buildings. In 1969, David Breedlove was a young engineer with a beautiful wife and a house in Menlo Park. They were expecting their first child. Breedlove liked his job and had even turned down an offer from Hewlett-Packard, the iconic high-tech giant in the Valley. Nevertheless, he was considering leaving Menlo Park to move to a medium-sized town called Visalia. About a three-hour drive from Menlo Park, Visalia sits on a flat, dry plain in the heart of the agricultural San Joaquin Valley. Its residential neighborhoods have the typical feel of many Southern California communities, with wide streets lined with one-story houses, lawns with shrubs and palm trees, and the occasional backyard pool. It’s hot in the summer, with a typical maximum temperature in July of ninety-four degrees, and cold in the winter.
Continue Reading CloseEnrico Moretti is a professor of economics at the University of California, Berkeley, whose research has been supported by the National Science Foundation, the National Institutes of Health and has been featured in the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal and Slate, among other publications. More Enrico Moretti.
Would you buy a Chinese car?
Car-makers like Geely, Chery and Great Wall try to capture a more global market -- and overcome their reputations
Geely Panda (Credit: Wikipedia) JOHANNESBURG, South Africa — The Geely LC is a classic Chinese car: cheap and cheerful, with a design said to have been inspired by a happy panda.
A South African car reviewer recently showered it with relative praise. “Cheap and not at all nasty,” said the headline. The reviewer noted the usual reputation of Chinese cars in Africa: “rubbish” quality, “appalling” design and a disturbing smell of glue.
Energy wars heat up
From Africa to South America, conflicts over waning resources are becoming more tense -- and dangerous
A member of the military stands guard near pump stations before a
ceremony in which oil operations at Heglig oilfield will resume in
Heglig, Sudan, May 2, 2012.
(Credit: Reuters/Mohamed Nureldin Abdallah) Conflict and intrigue over valuable energy supplies have been features of the international landscape for a long time. Major wars over oil have been fought every decade or so since World War I, and smaller engagements have erupted every few years; a flare-up or two in 2012, then, would be part of the normal scheme of things. Instead, what we are now seeing is a whole cluster of oil-related clashes stretching across the globe, involving a dozen or so countries, with more popping up all the time. Consider these flash-points as signals that we are entering an era of intensified conflict over energy.
Continue Reading CloseIs this Cold War 2.0?
A maritime dispute in the South China Sea threatens to draw in the United States
(Credit: Wikipedia) HONG KONG, China — With a US ally engaged in a tense standoff with China over disputed territory in the South China Sea, America risks wading into increasingly perilous waters.
The conflict began in mid-April, when a Filipino frigate — a 1960s Coast Guard vessel bought from the United States — attempted to stop several boats of Chinese fishermen who had taken live sharks, giant clams and coral from waters claimed by the Philippines around a rocky patch called the Scarborough Shoal. The Chinese dispatched several larger, more modern boats from one of its civilian maritime agencies, which intercepted the frigate, allowing the fisherman to escape with their catch. Filipino fishermen say they have since been barred from fishing in the lagoon.
Continue Reading CloseChasing the Chinese-American dream
A new show seeks to understand the Chinese-American experience through professional and amateur photography SLIDE SHOW
For the photographers — professional, amateur, and (in some cases) completely unknown — whose work appears in the upcoming show “America Through a Chinese Lens,” cameras serve as more than just artistic tools. They are extensions of the senses, capturing observations about the Chinese-American experience, from the nuanced and deliberate to the candid and offhand.
The show uses 20th- and 21st-century photographs to examine the experiences and preoccupations of Chinese people living in the U.S. — visitors, immigrants and residents with multigenerational roots.
Continue Reading CloseEmma Mustich is a Salon contributor. Follow her on Twitter: @emustich. More Emma Mustich.
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