Life stories

How a famous kitchen seduced me

Years before Prune's chef wrote a bestselling memoir, I asked her to teach me to cook -- and she changed my life

In 2003, I was an editor at Harper’s magazine. My job was to compile bits of beautiful and bizarre text from near and far: odd instruction on Pakistani crosswalk signs, transcripts of phone conversations between Slobodan Milosevic and his son about colored socks, circus tiger training manuals, quiddities, poems, stories about snow.

I read newspapers and journals and books and pamphlets in search of written material that told us something about how we lived, saved it from anonymity, organized it to reflect the gorgeousness and absurdities of life.

I can’t imagine I will ever have another a job I like so much. The trouble was that I wanted to cook. I wanted to cook more than I wanted to read, or even to write.

My dark little office always smelled of something: It smelled of green garlic or the scarlet-bulbed spring onions I’d bought at the farmers’ market. Or of strawberries. Sometimes it was almost unapproachable because of a jar of chilies marinating in fish sauce I kept on my shelf for a Thai squid salad that wanted it added at the last moment.

To get into my office you would have to sidestep paper bags full of beets, or a basket of cabbages. I noticed fellow editors looking skeptically at the bowl of wild mushrooms or tiny artichokes I put on my desk because I needed to see them out of the corner of my eye while skimming the day’s several newspapers.

It got to be too much, finally. As I turned pages, incessant philosophical debates raged inside me over why my brain deserved to be treated to all the stimulus the media and academe could offer while my body, so energetic and full of senses, went unused. My back wanted to bend, my nose and tongue ached to have something asked of them.

So I started to walk from my office at lunchtime to my favorite restaurant, Prune, a few blocks from the magazine’s office.

It is a perfect little restaurant, its front shadowed by dark pink awning, little, round lanterns that come on each night at 5:00. It has a slim door through which every movement becomes a bustle. A menu with sweetbreads, a soft omelet of caraway seeds and sour cream, oysters and lamb sausage.

The first few days I just walked by, stopping in front of the restaurant’s white-paned door, perusing the menu, trying to appear nonchalant.

Then, I began to peer through the windows. First I would just glance, but afterward, I looked more boldly, cupping my hands around my face.

I watched what went on: Usually there was a cook in the small kitchen in back, hunched over something, working quietly and intently. Sometimes someone was mopping. Occasionally, there were people sitting around a table, looking purposeful, eating and talking and pointing at papers.

The second week, I went in. I asked the man who was cleaning if I could speak to the chef. He told me she was out. I left. Two days later I returned. This time, a woman, thin and floury, was standing at the copper bar by the door, drinking a coffee. I asked her if I could speak to the chef. She told me the chef was out. I shrank, red-faced. The next day I returned again, watched the same floury woman, now rolling dough in the kitchen, through the window, turned around, ate curry at the Punjabi taxi stand around the corner, and went back to the magazine.

I let several weeks pass without walking by Prune. It was all right, I told myself. I’d never known what I would say if the chef emerged. It was a sign: I should enjoy cooking dinner at home, and spend my days reading and writing.

Then, I found myself again pulled toward the restaurant. I returned. I opened the front door, saw the tall, flour-dusted woman drinking coffee at the bar and asked for the chef.

She looked at me quite seriously for a moment. Then she asked what I wanted.

I gushed: I was an editor. But perhaps I was a cook trapped in an editor’s body. Perhaps I was just an editor that loved food. I needed to stand in that tiny kitchen, hot and frizzy, I needed to rush and sweat, to see the underbelly of cooking.

“Are you a writer?” she asked me.

“I suppose I am,” I said.

“The chef is a writer, too,” she said. “You should write her a letter.”

The chef, Gabrielle Hamilton, had written an article I’d loved. She hadn’t yet written the book of her journey to become a chef, which she published this spring. But I had been able to tell, reading the article, that words sounded like bells to her, as they did to me. I could tell that she liked to knock them against each other.

The following day, I returned, a letter folded into an issue of the magazine and my business card clipped to the top.

It was a self-important letter, very young and grave. I found it recently.

Gabrielle,

I am writing from my office at Harper’s Magazine. (I don’t have a door so I am writing this casually, not to arouse suspicion.)

I am writing at the suggestion of your pastry chef, with whom I spoke on Thursday at the restaurant.

I have stopped by before, spoken to a cleaning person, spoken to the pastry chef. I’ve let a month pass. I don’t know why: probably it is because for a few weeks words won the contest they are forever fighting with food.

The terms of the fight: I am seduced by language and by cooking. I am, however, better trained to shape language for money.

Now, again, four weeks later, I feel the pull; food is the stuff of my dreams and the words only come easily when they are about food.

But I romanticize it. I read too much Elizabeth David and M.F.K. Fisher. I would like to do the hardest and dirtiest things that there are to be done in a restaurant kitchen before I let it become any more mystical: if food hasn’t lost its luster after I have peeled hundreds of potatoes and de-veined livers and broken down smelly boxes I’ll re-plot my course.

I am writing to ask if you will let me figure some of this out in your kitchen.

I came to Harper’s because I reasoned that if I didn’t love working here, I wouldn’t enjoy working at any magazine. Prune represents the same in a restaurant.

I can’t quit my job, so I can only offer my labor at strange hours or on weekends or at certain times of the month. But I am not asking you for any money or any regularity; I am not squeamish; and the way I see it, unless I empty the till, you have nothing to lose.

Sincerely,

Tamar Adler

It’s so rhetorical and blustery it’s hard to read now. But it was true. I think that is why the chef, whom I’d come to imagine in her office avoiding me, called and asked me to come in to talk the following day.

So I did.

There, at the back table, was the chef, her sous chef and another cook who looked at me imperiously.

I stood, trembling, next to the table, declined an offer of a pancake, which they were all eating as they talked, and then felt miserable, watching them scoop scrambled eggs up with their pancakes as though it was all the only obvious thing to do in the world.

“What do you want?” she asked me plainly.

“I want to cook here.”

“We have thirty seats. I don’t have hundreds of pounds of potatoes for you to peel. I don’t need you to break down boxes. Do you cook?” she asked.

“I think so,” I said.

“I can’t teach you to cook,” she said. “I learned to cook at my mother’s apron strings. You won’t learn how to cook by peeling potatoes.”

I was bluff and determined now. “I can cook. I can come on Saturdays.”

“I don’t need you to come on Saturdays,” she said.

“Please, let me come in on Saturday,” I said, trying to be very steady.

She looked at me directly. She told me slowly and not unhappily that I should not become a cook, but rather go on writing and editing. I couldn’t think of what to say, so I looked directly back. She then smiled, broadly and briefly, told me to bring a chef’s knife and a paring knife and arrive at 8:30 on Saturday morning.

I spent the next three days at my desk learning cooking terms: “dice” meant more than one thing, brunoise referred to a size, julienne meant skinny ribbons, I prayed no one would ask me to “tourne” a potato, which I learned from an encyclopedic cookbook was very hard and involved seven perfect sides.

At night, I cut onions at home. My boyfriend watched with glee as I practiced not cutting onions, but cutting onions coolly, without looking down or frowning. After I had a small fit about my chef’s knife having been bought as part of a set at a department store (which I’d read somewhere was a terrible thing), he bought me a big knife, very sharp.

On Saturday morning I woke up at 6:00, prowled up and down our apartment, wrapped and rewrapped my new knife in kitchen towels, changed clothes, cried briefly, and then rode my bicycle across town. I locked my bicycle, checked my watch, felt the first moment of relief I had all week, because I was exactly on time, and walked in the front door, soggy with sweat.

There was already a hum to the place. The chef came up the narrow stairs and told me I was late. I had to clutch my hands like a choirboy to keep them from shaking like wet birds. I felt sure I was the grimmest person to ever enter the hallway where I was sent to change into a big white shirt and I stopped in it, staring at the ridiculous bundle of my two knives, and looked at my clean, soft hands, and wondered what I was doing.

———

If I had paced back and forth in front another restaurant, I think that day might have been my last in a restaurant kitchen. Everything in it seemed labeled in hieroglyphics, and the refrigerator was so cold I had to clench my teeth to keep them from chattering as I repeatedly pulled out the wrong thing. Fish eyes glared at me meanly. I stupidly got myself stuck in the refrigerator, had to ask for help opening the door of another, slipped on a stair, and cheerfully refused food at midday, so that by the afternoon I was woozy and it took an eternity for any instruction to sink it.

But I had paced back and forth in front of this one. The chef stood across from me in the big, bright kitchen where food for dinner was prepared. She showed me how to wrap little raw chickens in pickled grape leaves, turned on public radio to listen to a piece on Darwin, then turned it down to teach me how to peel the fine, transparent membrane off sweetbreads and, after watching me nick them horribly, dared me to eat a creamy piece of one, cold, directly out of its brine, and laughed at me when I did.

Then, as I felt myself begin to roll to an uneasy halt, tired and hungry, she brought me an omelet, filled with beef tongue and salsa verde, told me I could work without a baby sitter, and asked me to return the following Saturday.

I did. I arrived early, proud, prepared to tie chickens in grape leaves and was instead ordered up the stairs to help on the grill station, where instead of public radio and a big, spacious kitchen there was a tiny, hot oven and a deep oil fryer, yelps to “fire” things, a whole lingo I could hear, but not understand. I was in everyone’s way. Each time I opened the oven, the kitchen screeched to a halt because it took me minutes to put anything in or take it out.

Told to shuck oysters, I wrestled with one while the rest were easily clicked open by a woman moving quickly between grill, fryer and tiny cutting board. I wished the whole time I could disappear. In a strange flutter I knocked a tall stack of metal trays behind the fryer, which the chef herself retrieved, telling me that she was oddly well made for such things. At the end of that day, I drank a beer and looked down numbly, knowing I’d only made the day harder.

And then, the following Saturday, I returned and was again ordered up the stairs, where I found no one but the sous chef awaiting me in the kitchen, and was told I would work the grill alone. I shivered and stuttered, he nudged me along. Then, the day was over, and I drank a beer, sitting on a stool, feeling as though I’d done more good than harm, and letting myself smile around the room.

And then the following one, we were busier, and the restaurant screamed with customers and food, and I ran out of things, and began, in an indescribable panic, to burn every ingredient I touched until eventually the chef had to stop her work, walk firmly into the kitchen and ask me to please take her place downstairs, and give her mine, before I turned the remainder of the week’s inventory into inedible charcoal.

Everyone was kind. When I would forget, other cooks pulled my basket of tiny, sweet merveilles out of sizzling oil just before they threatened to burn. No one ever yelled, though sometimes I would catch people looking at me with some concern, wondering whether I would be able to dust myself off after my most recent stumble.

When the chef worked in the tiny kitchen, I learned quickly, lessons that were sharp and clear:

Tongs were not things one held: They were extensions of one’s hand; they were what one used to hold other things.

I should keep one towel in the front of my apron, one at the back. I shouldn’t need more than two, and I should need two. I knew I looked like a clown until I understood what each was for.

I must press on meat with my finger to tell if it was done. It would feel like a part of the palm of my hand.

If she were mean, she told me once, she would slam the little oven door closed on my fingers as I bent uneasily, holding its door open, releasing its heat while I batted like a sea lion at the elegant ceramic cocotte cups I had to move in and out of a deep, frightening hot water bath. If she were a different kind of chef, she would count to five, let it slam shut, and I would learn to be faster.

I think Gabrielle believed she was allowing me to learn to be a line cook, which is a different thing from learning to cook. A line cook has a mental rhythm that allows her to do 18 things at once. She develops techniques not for cooking, but for thinking: She knows that once she drops merveilles into the oil, she must put a basket lined with paper next to it. It will remind her that she’s frying something and give her somewhere to put the hot merveilles.

I did learn about line cooking. Even before I learned to wait until an oyster’s hinge gave way before prying it open, I learned that because oysters were ordered every few minutes, if I shucked one whenever I had a free moment, I had a passing chance of ending up with three by the time an order came in. I developed the appropriate tics: turning the handle of a little pot of chickpeas in one direction when I put a tomato to broil in the oven, then rotating it when I retrieved the tomato, so that if I ever lost track, I only had to look down to see where I was.

I do not know if she remained wed to the idea that she couldn’t teach me how to cook. I thought, after I’d come to understand how much better it was to butter toast boldly, and a little unevenly, than to spread it thinly as though it were apologizing to the bread, of telling her. Then I decided not to.

It is true that she never told me what steak or sausages smelled like the instant they caramelized on the outside. Nor did she say to move them to a cooler part of a grill to finish cooking. I figured it out: They always smelled the same when their outsides seized up and became dark and perfect; and if I left them where they were, as I’d learned that one mortifying Saturday, they burned.

Parsley, I learned, made a delicious salad. Canned chickpeas were a useful ingredient (my mother had always soaked and cooked them from dried). An omelet should not have anything brown or hard about it. Butter and oil were glorious. Spaghetti was good at breakfast time. Hollandaise sauce could be slick and dark yellow.

Most of the tacit rules about food I’d learned in 26 years of eating were bunkum. Bitter greens could be so lemony they made your mouth pucker, and you might still find yourself greedily wanting more. Bones filled with quivering fatty marrow were simply good. They belonged on the table, they belonged with butter.

There were no rules at all. All that mattered was being hungry and being happy for an opportunity to eat. And why not, I learned, do it with gusto? Why not make feeding one’s appetite creative and odd, poetic, dark, oily, salty, acidic? Why not dust it with powdered sugar, or hot sauce? Why not allow it to quiver, as our appetites do? Why not char it for a moment, let oneself taste that fire has been used, that cooking has been done.

———

After three months of Saturdays, I was wrung dry. I was tired after five days of work, and usually returned to my office on Sundays. I told the chef I was considering leaving. She wrote me a note recommending that I spend an afternoon recalling what I’d wanted to learn by peeling hundreds of pounds of potatoes, and let that intention guide my decision.

She told me that I could move up to another station, or cook nights instead of weekends, certainly not because I was ready to — I was still trembling my way through each service. I was slow and clumsy, I burned myself constantly, the hot water bath in that deep, hot oven still haunted me all week long, splashed and burned me each time I foundered in its direction.

She only suggested it, she said, so that I might, if I thought it useful, “dip my toe into the lake from all sides.”

It was beautifully put. I thought about dipping my toe into the lake. The sound of the words awakened something in me. The fragile resonance between memories of cold water on a hot, excited foot, and trying something new, the dipping in before jumping. What words could do sprung back at me with a force that almost shook me.

My small, odiferous office seemed perfect, then, suddenly. My toe felt wet, I did not want to swim.

I returned midweek to tell her I was leaving.

She sat in her office, as she did, and nodded her head proudly. Good, she said, good, go write, go edit. Go forth!

I kept editing for a year before moving to Georgia to help friends open a restaurant and then taking over its kitchen a few weeks later. More burned and scared than ever, I put off writing her to tell her, even though I badly needed advice. How should I keep marrow in roasting bones from leaking out? Why was my hollandaise sauce not as bright and glossy? Where did one stand to call orders out to a kitchen?

One night, before a big wine dinner, I wrote. I wrote asking her forgiveness for reneging on my promise to go forth and write.

She wasn’t angry. She told me what to do with the marrow bones, she gave me tips for hollandaise. Stand, she said, wherever they can hear you.

I went on cooking, standing where I could be heard, more conscious at each moment of how much I’d learned in that tiny, hot kitchen than I’ve ever said out loud. I’ve finally abandoned restaurant kitchens for writing. As I promised I would, which is how it all got started in the first place.

Gabrielle’s great memoir — which she was working on when she first agreed to let me give action to my need to cook — is probably as close to giving language to her love of stories as anything she’s ever squeezed with lemon, or slathered in thick butter. I have figured out, meanwhile, that cooking and writing are just the same.

As soon as a dish of fried chickpeas seems not to feed a certain hunger, incite a need for a cold sip of beer, look quiet and right in a corner of a table, a new narrative begins to simmer in the absence. Salt will continue to spill, bread be broken, wine shared. Food and words will continue their strange dance between how we eat and how we describe it. They will continue to make us hungry, we will continue to try to feed. Birds in the hand — whether they’re a meal we’ve imagined, or a sentence better than the one that’s on the page — will continue to show up, as they do in my mind, and it seems clear to me they always will, small, golden brown and roasted rare.

Tamar Adler was an editor at Harper's Magazine before cooking at Prune, Farm 255, and Chez Panisse. Tamar's first book, "An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace," was recently published by Scribner.

Finding my mother again

Years after she died, I came to understand the complicated woman I long mythologized, by becoming a mom, too

A photo of the author, as a baby, with her mother (Credit: Melissa King via Shutterstock)

In the 15 years since my mother has been gone, she has become a mythical figure in my life. She was a woman to be revered, but also one so complicated and so different from me that I fear I’ll never stop struggling to make sense of her and to accept myself within the context of her shadow.

My mother was 37 years old, twice divorced and childless when she met my father. She had been living in Manhattan for 17 years, having grown up in Connecticut and gone to the Rhode Island School of Design to study painting. She had dozens of friends, went to parties and attended art openings. She smoked pot in the Village and spent Tuesday nights in smoky jazz clubs, sipping martinis and recrossing her legs.

My parents had been set up on a blind date by mutual friends, but the night they were supposed to go out, my mother stood my father up. She’d gone to Long Island that day with a friend to pick strawberries, and by the time she came home, the last thing she felt like doing was going on a blind date with some older businessman from Atlanta.

My mother was funny and quick-witted, and she was almost always up for an adventure. She was also uncommonly pretty, with green eyes, blond hair, a symmetrical face and an easy smile. When she went to sleep that night in June of 1975 in her little one-bedroom apartment on 28th Street, she had no idea that her life was about to change.

My father, at 55 years old, was just entering his prime. In spite of (or perhaps because of) two divorces and three grown children, he was happier than he’d ever been.

He flew first-class wherever he went. He stayed at the Watergate Hotel when he was in D.C. and the Plaza when he was in New York. He winked at stewardesses and drank tumblers of scotch on the rocks. He wore hats and suits and left big tips at fancy restaurants.

He wasn’t used to being stood up, so the next morning he rang my mother’s buzzer at 9 a.m. “Who dares call on anyone before noon on a Sunday in New York?” my mother later wrote about that first encounter in a letter to my father, detailing their courtship. “It had to be you, as they say, and I opened the door with wet hair asking if you wanted a Bloody Mary, which you did, thank God.”

I always try to imagine this moment between them. My mother in the doorway with her wet hair, my father on the threshold in his blue leisure suit, the moment of them not knowing each other and then knowing each other eclipsed in one short breath.

They went to dinner and later flew to my father’s place in Atlanta, making daiquiris with the strawberries my mother had picked on Long Island the day before. They swam in the pool and smoked Camels and talked into the night, their legs dangling into the water, lit from below by the pool light.

They were married three months later on Cape Cod. My father whisked my mother away from New York and set her up in a big house in a nice neighborhood in Atlanta. He paid off all her debts, bought her a cream-colored convertible and opened a credit card in her name in every department store. I was born two years after that.

For the next decade — before my father unexpectedly went bankrupt following the stock market crash of 1987, and before my parents were both diagnosed with cancer within months of each other — we lived a blissful and privileged existence. My mother had quickly charmed her way into Atlanta’s upper social echelon, and it wasn’t uncommon for our dining room table to be inhabited by local political figures and foreign dignitaries.

I remained her only child, but motherhood only seemed to enhance my mother’s glamour and sophistication. It added a dimension to her personality and worldview that had, perhaps, been the only thing missing all along. But I wonder what the other carpool moms thought of my mother when she zoomed into the after-school pickup line in her Alfa Romeo, with her blond hair pulled back in a Chanel scarf.

I was 18 when she died of cancer, and I had become the very opposite of my graceful, glowing mother. My teenage years had been rocked by a roller coaster of parental illness, hospitals and private despair. In response, I had become an angst-ridden poet. I wore combat boots, dyed my hair crimson and sported a nose ring. My mother had always embraced these tiny, public displays of rebellion, but the moment she was gone I felt foolish.

I’ll never forget walking down the aisle of a church on the day of her funeral with a shaved head and my first, barely dry tattoo concealed under my shoulder, feeling as though I had utterly failed my beautiful mother in every way possible.

Since she died, I have struggled to forge my own identity in her absence. At times, I have wanted nothing more than to emulate everything about who she was — something I know I could never really achieve. While I may be outgoing and capable of hosting a memorable dinner party, I have inherited my father’s looks and practicalities, not to mention having retained a deep-seated and dark sense of self-reflection following so much loss.

For many years, I was unsure if I wanted children at all. When I finally decided that I did (within days of meeting my husband), I knew that I wanted to be a younger mother than mine was. My daughter was born a few weeks after my 31st birthday — almost a decade before my mother herself bore me — and now, as I approach my 34th birthday, I am due with my second.

Every inch of motherhood, for me, has been stitched with the essence of her. Throughout my 20s, I made valiant and sometimes senseless attempts to bring my mother into my life again. I lived in the places where she once lived. I learned how to cook and throw dinner parties. And more often, I simply took myself to the very brink of life in hopes that if I tottered just enough, she might appear to pull me back from the edge.

But it was truly in motherhood that I found her again, even though our experiences couldn’t be more different. My husband and I live in a tiny rental house in Los Angeles and both work as writers, struggling to pay our child’s preschool dues. I can often be found at the playground, even if I am one of the few mothers actually wearing mascara and earrings. As I write this, my body is swollen with another child, something she never ventured to do.

Despite those differences, motherhood has brought her back into my life, and it has given me an opportunity to embrace my own path as a woman and mother. I hear her in my voice when I comfort my daughter by crawling into bed with her at 3 a.m. when she has woken from a nightmare, when I stop to marvel at a snail traveling through the grass, and especially during dinner parties when I catch myself offering my 3-year-old bits of brie or Marcona almonds.

In adulthood, it has occurred to me that all of us are living reactions to our parents. Whether they loved us or not, whether they were present or absent, whether they kept us safe or recklessly abandoned us to harm’s way, we move forward into life walking paths they etched out decades earlier. It also often occurs to me how grateful I am to the woman who loved me fiercely enough to remain true to who she was, even in the complicated throes of motherhood.

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Claire Bidwell Smith is the author of the memoir, “The Rules of Inheritance.” She is a therapist specializing in grief, and lives in Los Angeles.

Their moms were crazy about me

My boyfriends' mothers just knew I was The One. Too bad their sons didn't agree

Judy’s warm brown eyes sucked me right in. Her son David and I had only been dating four months, but that didn’t stop me from falling for her hard. I was 30, and still reeling from my parents’ recent divorce and the fact that my mom had just moved five floors above me on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. I practically went from shaking Judy’s hand to curling up on her lap in a fetal position. I didn’t feel like a grown woman meeting my boyfriend’s mother. I felt like a kid calling shotgun, desperate to claim a seat at her table.

Over the next five years, I got that seat. I spent Hanukkahs, Passovers, even Purims in Judy’s plant- and music-filled home in Amherst, Mass., my picture hanging on her fridge alongside her children and grandchildren. To her, I was a done deal. I was family. To David, not so much.

After thousands of dollars spent on couples therapy, David still couldn’t make up his mind about me. He kept saying he “wanted to want to marry me.”

“What did I do wrong?” Judy asked me one day, in a stolen, private moment, not understanding why David was unable to commit to me.

I wished I understood. I wanted to blame his ambivalence on something specific. Yet the truth was he didn’t love me enough to make me his wife, and her love wasn’t enough to change his mind or heart.

When David and I broke up, Judy sent me a handwritten note in the mail telling me she was so very sorry and that she wished me everything I wanted for myself. And with one last “Love, Judy,” my picture was no longer hanging on her refrigerator. I no longer had a place at her table. I was no longer part of her family.

My mother, who by this time had moved to a house in Connecticut, came to live with me for a week. She yanked David’s nightstand and lamp from the wall and pushed my bed up against the window, so I wouldn’t be reminded of where he used to sleep. We repainted my living room, ordered in sushi, and she held me as I cried. Then my father invited me down to Florida. He took me out to expensive steak dinners and let me sleep late. We spent hours watching “Planet Earth” until I couldn’t think about anything other than stalactites and snow leopards. I was grateful to both of them for being there for me, but it didn’t erase a nagging aloneness I felt deep inside, the pain I still harbored over their divorce, over our broken family. I was 35 and mad at myself for still being hung up on a long gone childhood home. It was time for me to create my own home, start my own family. I just didn’t know how to do it.

All I knew is that I didn’t want to spend another five years with another mixed-message guy, only to get a “Dear John letter” from another almost mother-in-law. But like a crackhead who can’t shake her habit no matter how hard she tries, I was a goner the second I stepped foot into Susan’s kitchen.

Paper turkeys and streamers were strewn everywhere. Her house smelled of chocolate babka and apple cider. I could call this place home, I thought, sitting down, not wanting to get up.

It was only my sixth date with Jason. But it seemed longer since we’d spent four years of high school together and had been Facebook friends for the past year. I knew I shouldn’t get too excited, but the fact that he had invited me home for Thanksgiving and that I was meeting his mom so early on made me feel special, like he was really considering me as someone he could spend his life with. When he invited me back for Hanukkah a few weeks later, and my picture was hanging on the fridge, I knew I was in.

Susan and I spent hours in her kitchen frying latkes, bonding over how we both give too much and have short necks. She even confided in me that she had never seen Jason so happy. This was the real deal.

Jason and I didn’t end up making it past New Year’s.

Instead of a note, Susan picked up the phone. “It’s not you,” she said. “You’re wonderful, perfect, beautiful.” She was a poet, and explained to me that a poem isn’t possible if the writer isn’t open to the words in the ether. “I’m sorry Jason isn’t open to the poem.”

I dropped my head into my hands as soon as we hung up and burst into tears. I couldn’t believe I had let this happen. I had once again mistaken a mother’s love for the love of her son. I clearly had a problem and could not be trusted around mothers.

I should have been happy when Ethan didn’t introduce me to his mother immediately. He told me he wanted me to himself for a while before bringing me home to meet the family. But after six months of dating, I found myself fiending. When would I get to sit at Rena’s table? When would I see myself hanging on her fridge?

Rena, Ethan and I made plans to meet up for breakfast around the corner from me on the Upper West Side. I wore my favorite navy blue sweater and made sure to blow-dry my hair. I wanted to look pretty for her.

As we sat in a booth eating overcooked eggs, Rena told me about the Holocaust museum where she worked. I told her about the eighth grade girls I counseled on Fridays. Ethan made jokes.

Then the subject of our future came up.

Rena looked at me directly, and said,  “I’m waiting to love you.”

I almost choked on my toast.

Judy and Susan flew to mind. There had been no waiting with them. Just full on, “Let’s do this!” Then I thought back to something David had said at the end of our relationship that I never understood. “I feel like we’re more brother-sister than lovers.”

Sitting speechless in this poorly lit diner, something clicked.

David was right. By slipping into daughter role with his mother, I had become one of the kids. And while that felt good, to be part of a cohesive family, to feel like I fit in, I wanted to be a wife, not a daughter-in-law or sister.

Rena somehow knew this, that her love and approval couldn’t influence her son — and that if we had a shot, she should stay out of it.

I wanted to hug her and thank her for doing the thing I couldn’t do all these years: Wait, see and then fall.

Last May, Ethan and I exchanged vows under a brightly colored Chuppah that Rena had spent hours sewing together for us. But it wasn’t her love that got me there. It was Ethan’s.

As I stared into my soon-to-be husband’s warm blue eyes, smiling so wide my cheeks hurt, surrounded by a patchwork of friends and family, I no longer felt like a displaced kid looking for a seat at someone else’s table. I felt like a woman being claimed by a man.

Ethan made me his wife. And now, at almost 40, I am hoping he can make me a mother too. Our fridge is waiting.

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Kimberlee Auerbach Berlin’s memoir, "The Devil, The Lovers & Me: My Life in Tarot," was published by Dutton in 2007. She teaches memoir and humor writing for continuing education programs including Mediabistro, UCLA Extension, Gotham Writers’ Workshop and has a growing private client base. For more info: www.kimmiland.com..

We had all the time in the world

My sabbatical offered a quiet and calm I'd always wanted. Then I discovered what a challenge that could be

(Credit: Hofhauser via Shutterstock)

One of the enviable perks of the academic life is the funded year off that comes every seven years, and my husband and I were miraculously scheduled for sabbatical at the same time. The year fell during what was technically the second year of our “empty nest,” but it was the first time we’d be without children and day jobs. Unlike our colleagues, who head to dusty provincial church archives to research the something-something in medieval Spain, we were free to go wherever. Filled with ideas for almost every medium — play, essay, screenplay, pilot, humor pieces — I dreamed of untold productivity and an endless summer at my in-laws’ lake house in New Hampshire. I would finally have the time and quiet I’d been hungering for after 19 years of teaching and raising children.

Staying on in a summer community is like being in a department store after closing, or the zoo after dark. I wanted the place to empty out. I wanted to turn at the flashing light without waiting for the endless line of cars piling in from Boston. And yet the weekend after Labor Day, when I showed up at the flea market ready to bag the bargains that await the locals, I discovered there was no flea market after Labor Day. In high summer I bitterly complained about the busy, noisy beach where it was impossible to read undisturbed. But when I took a late September swim, it was eerie to find myself alone there. I felt like a ghost, condemned to wander the places where I was happiest.

The lake was quiet now, and we recognized the few year-round sails we saw in the distance. Taking our canoe down the Saco River, where in summer there are flotillas of canoes and beer rafts, we were now the only ones there. Arriving at Crescent Beach in Maine, where the parking lot is usually full of camp buses hugging the shade, we counted only 10 cars. By November, we were the only ones left on the lake, kayaking with hot tea in our thermoses, floating among the feathers left behind by the migrating Canadian geese. It was hard to shake the feeling that there was someplace we were supposed to be.

Without the academic calendar organizing our lives, there was a sense of unreality about where we were and what season we were in. Our life had the logic of dreams: “It was the New Hampshire house, but it wasn’t the New Hampshire house.” Brown leaves fell on the front porch, giving it an abandoned, haunted house feel – an effect heightened by our black cat, who sat on the porch railing watching the chipmunks. The weather further confounded us with a late October snowstorm (the headline in the local paper read “SNOWLIAGE!”). Watching the snow melt and the dirt roads growing muddy, it felt more like spring than autumn.

While new second homes are outfitted with every appliance, in this Cheever-y summerhouse it was considered a virtue to do without — to do without showers, dishwashers and dug wells. The water from the cistern had a bitter taste, and a washcloth left in the sink overnight would mysteriously turn blue. Whether it was the dubious water or the Dr. Bronner’s biodegradable soap, my hair was never entirely clean. Our clothing smelled like wood smoke and the cuffs of our jeans were perpetually muddy. When we went to town we were like Peruvian miners returning to daylight, blinking hard at civilization. The previously magical path to the lake became woodsy and damp and a late day swim now seemed medically ill advised. The milky sunset was moving earlier and earlier, but when we complained about the shortening days and the dark mornings, a year-rounder friend replied briskly: “What difference does it make if you don’t have to get up for work?”

The travails of a year off and the exigencies of an 18th-century summerhouse are a privileged set of problems to explore. But a sabbatical demands a kind of self-directed work that’s very different from an articulated class schedule and a proscribed roster of tutorials and department meetings. It requires a daily discipline, especially in the face of a beautiful New England fall. I careened from feeling stupid for staying indoors while the lakes and mountains beckoned, to feeling irritated that I hadn’t committed to a hard and fast writing schedule. Normally I worked on projects for someone; this year I was simply writing. There was no guarantee that anything I wrote would be produced or published and I was forced to confront the daily uncertainties of the freelancer.

I became obsessed with other writers’ schedules. I read an interview with Haruki Murakami in the New York Times Magazine in which I learned that he lived a “monkishly regimented life.” He ran or swam long distances, went to bed at 9 p.m. and woke up “without an alarm” at 4 a.m. to sit down to five to six hours of “concentrated writing.” It was implied that “concentrated writing” did not include answering emails or reading reviews and I remembered how Jonathan Franzen had famously put glue in his Internet port in order to avoid temptation.

As a professor one is perpetually needed, putting out logistical fires for the students on a daily basis, expected to respond immediately to their angsty, hormonal emails. Now when my BlackBerry blinked, it was only an email advertising a geographically irrelevant college lecture or the arrival of the new Athleta catalog. While we all fantasize about uninterrupted days, in practice there was something about the open calendar that inspired existential dread. Now when I had no students, and my two sons were both away at school, I missed the various human obstacles that used to stand between me and my writing. In the Nick Hornby book “About a Boy,” the wealthy, unemployed protagonist divides his days into 30-minute “units” to keep himself sane. How many times have you heard about the lottery winner whose life falls apart once he gives up his day job?

Writing full-time, my wardrobe was reduced to pajamas, jeans and the same red plaid flannel shirt. I’d put sneakers on to take a walk and then return to the same shearling-lined Merrell clogs. Once I discovered how little clothing I needed when I wasn’t teaching, the siren song of the nearby outlets was stilled.

In late October we moved into a winterized house that we’d planned to rent out, but our young tenants were blind-sided by medical bills, caught without health insurance after a complicated ectopic pregnancy, and moved out unexpectedly. Unsure how soon we’d be able find another renter, we decided to move into the unfurnished house ourselves.

When the snow finally flew, our world was enveloped in silence, compounded by the extra insulation of a new house. The only sounds I heard were the wood furnace kicking in or the occasional flying squirrel in the walls. This sepulchral quality was the aural equivalent of our empty nest, and the newfound quiet made it remarkably easy to concentrate. My husband painted in the heated basement while I worked long hours in the living room by the wood stove. When I looked out the window at a snowcapped Mount Washington, my heart swooned like a teenage girl spotting her crush at a party.

I often remind my playwriting students to ask the Passover question: What makes this day different from all other days? Talking to our children on the phone I struggled to answer that question myself. A writing routine requires, well, routine. When life is uneventful — when you don’t get dressed, go to work or see other people — there are suddenly many hours in the day for writing.

As the pages stacked up, I began to see how this sabbatical thing worked, and the twinges of guilt and embarrassment I’d felt about a year off went away.  Teaching not only takes up the time that might otherwise go to writing, but the short-term ego gratification can supplant the need to write. Posterity can come to seem less important than the student in your office insisting that your class is “awesome.”

I subscribed to a website called I Done This that emailed me at 6 every evening asking me to account for my day. Replying with the list of tasks I’d accomplished opened up the larger question of what counted.  Did grocery shopping count? Laundry? Taking a walk?

I also wanted to use the year to check off a private bucket list that included reading Dickens, learning Spanish and returning to figure skating.  Middle-aged fear had supplanted my pre-pubescent skills so I took lessons at the local ice rink to recoup what I’d lost. Children were now being taught to skate by pushing milk crates around the ice so I skated among the jangling, periodic clatter of the falling stacks. I knew that Murakami or Franzen would never take time away from their writing to learn how to do a Lutz but I also knew that being a student, being bad at something, is the best way to remind yourself how to be a teacher, both because it’s humbling and because it reminds you that teaching involves breaking something down into manageable steps. How do you go from the security of skating on two feet to lifting one foot up and crossing it over the other while moving? Like writing, like everything, it’s harder than it looks.

A sabbatical too is harder than it looks. A sabbatical reminds you that humans are like working dogs. We like tasks; we like to be where we’re supposed to be at a certain time. A sabbatical also makes you confront the fact that you are replaceable. (A tone-deaf junior colleague emailed me early on to tell me what a great job my replacement was doing.) And a sabbatical forces you to articulate your definition of time well spent. If there were nothing standing between you and your writing, what would you write? And what else would you want to do? Is happiness grounded in geography? Is life about checking off bucket lists?

By the time April rolled around we knew that back in Ohio our colleagues were in the home stretch. We became nostalgic for those hooky-playing autumn days when we were floating around in kayaks with the year off stretching ahead of us. A sabbatical wasn’t quite as sweet once everyone had the summer off. Though I’m only halfway through “Bleak House,” I can still point to a respectable stack of pages written. I’m speaking some present-tense Spanish and skating with the 13-year-old divas in the center of the rink. Come August, I will have to repeatedly answer the question “How was your sabbatical?”

This essay is the long answer. The short answer will be: “It was great.”

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Wendy MacLeod's plays have been produced Off-Broadway at Playwrights Horizons and at The Goodman and Steppenwolf Theaters in Chicago. Her play "The House of Yes" was made into a Miramax film. Her prose has appeared in McSweeney’s Internet Tendency, The International Herald Tribune, The Washington Post, The Rumpus, The Awl, NPR’s All Things Considered and POETRY magazine. She is the James E. Michael Playwright-in-Residence at Kenyon College. Her new play "Women in Jep" will premiere in July at the Arden Theater in Philadelphia.

When Lindsay Lohan moved in

The actress turned my Venice Beach neighborhood into a media circus, but also brought us all together in a new way

Amid a stream of confetti, Lindsay Lohan arrives at court in Beverly Hills, Calif., on July 20, 2010. (Credit: AP/Jason Redmond)

When Lindsay Lohan moved two doors down from me last year, I had briefly fantasized about some sort of feel-good neighborly encounter between us. This happened on the night when I spotted the first of many satellite vans that would defiantly park in the red zone in front of my house. The van, coupled with the all-male paparazzi contingent prowling the alley behind my garage with an abundance of video equipment, provided me with a fresh understanding of what it means to live under siege.

And so, hunkered down inside my house, I had imagined the following scenario: The actress, fleeing down the alley from these men and unable to enter her own home, would accept my offer of temporary shelter. I’d quickly usher her into my living room where I’d offer her a non-alcoholic beverage. My cats, who normally hate strangers, would allow her to pet them and she would feel inspired to reveal some shard of a more authentic self that existed beneath her celebrity train wreck veneer. She would confide her secret fears, gripes and vulnerabilities and I would nod with empathy.

My ability to just listen to her, to treat her like any other human being, would move her to tears. She would confess that she had never met anyone like me since becoming famous, someone who could just interact with her without any other agenda other than offering assistance. I would modestly dismiss this compliment yet secretly bask in a newfound sense of warm and fuzzy altruism. We would hug goodbye, and I would proceed to tell friends and family: Wow, Lindsay is so down-to-earth! The media has her wrong!

A year later, the actress has fled my neighborhood and I never once spoke to her. I never rescued her from the paparazzi hordes. I never knocked on her door bearing a homemade fruit pie. And I never found out whether discrepancies existed between the LiLo of the tabloids and the young, often harried-looking woman who darted in and out of her garage as if she were a soldier en route from the minefield to the relative safety of the barracks.

Instead, my year-long experience as the actress’ nearly next-door neighbor can be summed up in three missed opportunities for potentially friendly interaction, all of which occurred in the alley behind our houses.

Missed opportunity No. 1: While taking out my trash, I spotted her engaged in the identical task. It was a Sunday afternoon and we both had our hair in ponytails and wore sweat pants and T-shirts. Our sartorial similarities made her seem all that more approachable. Be neighborly, I told myself. Go over there and say hello! Tell her you don’t really believe she shoplifted that necklace. But before I could act, she had disappeared into her garage. After that, I only saw her assistants take out the garbage, along with the many strangers who combed through it.

Missed opportunity No. 2: Driving my car one day, I almost ran her over. She had been speed-walking down a sidewalk that intersected the alley, and I had to brake hard to avoid a collision. I raised my hand in apology, and she gave me an uninterested glance before walking onward. Up close, I could see the roots of her bleached blond hair, and she looked tired, fragile and older than her 25 years. After that, I couldn’t help feeling sorry for her despite my increasing resentment that she had transformed my street into a media circus and necessary tourist detour from the nearby Venice Beach boardwalk.

Missed opportunity No. 3: My husband and I had just wheeled our bikes outside for a morning ride and could not help noticing the actress’s black Cadillac Escalade idling in front of our garage. So we stood there with our bikes and waited until she emerged from her own garage. We pretended not to watch her get into her vehicle and she pretended that we didn’t exist.

Recently, I told my sister that I had never met my famous former neighbor. She was shocked and not because she took me for a celebrity brown-noser. Rather, she lives in a New Jersey town where to be a good neighbor means to interact with the people who live among you. “I can’t imagine not knowing my neighbors,” she said.

I, on the other hand, have lived my entire adult life in either New York City or Los Angeles, in apartment buildings and on streets where most of my neighbors remained nameless if recognizable strangers. For the most part, I’ve lived in places that bear not even the slightest traces of the era where people traded gossip over clothing lines and knew when to knock on each other’s doors bearing cakes and casseroles. Today, I know much more about the lives of remote acquaintances who frequently post on Facebook than I do about the people who physically inhabit my street.

Of course, my neighbors and I knew plenty about the actress in our midst, no matter that she had installed a bamboo fence to obscure her roof deck. So when we did run into each other, we finally had a common topic of conversation to which we could collectively shake our heads and say things equal parts blasé and judgmental like: There goes the neighborhood. We could say these things with authority, because even though we couldn’t see beyond our neighbor’s bamboo fence, someone else could, since we could get online updates on the actress’ troubled life from dozens of celebrity news sites. Thanks to the actress in our midst, we now had a reason to gather on a street where privacy and anonymity generally trumped interaction. And we could mock her with impunity. Hadn’t the tabloids made it clear that she deserved it?

In truth, my fantasy of rescuing and bonding with the actress didn’t stem from a desire to be a good neighbor but from my own conflicted relationship with celebrity. As the actress’ year on my block progressed and people camped out on beach chairs hoping for Lindsay sightings, I had to ask myself whether I was any different from those interloping looky-loos I wanted off my street. Because while I might have physically avoided the actress all those months, giving her the privacy she seemed to desperately need, I also sucked up all the tabloid information on her I could in the name of wanting to know what was happening two doors down.

When meeting new people at parties, I could mention my famous neighbor and, boom, we’d have something to talk about for at least the next 10 minutes. I could feel special when friends told me they just spotted a fraction of my house in some TMZ photo that mostly depicted the side-by-side townhouses of the actress and on-again, off-again flame Samantha Ronson. My physical proximity to the actress made me interesting to other people and so I mattered in a way that could only apply in a world obsessed by celebrity and inundated by the public gossip of Internet tabloid culture.

A few months ago, I noticed the actress’ overflowing mailbox, much of its contents soggy from rain. So I did what I always did whenever I saw a crowd amass on the sidewalk in front of my house or spotted more than one news van parked across the street. I consulted TMZ and E! Online to help make sense of what I saw, and I learned, along with the rest of the world, that the actress, fed up with all the gawkers and stalkers, had evacuated Venice Beach for the Chateau Marmont.

Several days later, I watched two moving trucks cart away her belongings and observed her assistants darting in and out of her townhouse on last-ditch errands. Afterward, I went online to read more articles about the actress’s departure featuring anonymous quotes from my “rejoicing” neighbors who basically pronounced the nightmare over. The anonymous neighbors said other mean things about the actress that made me briefly resurrect my fantasy of rescuing her from peril. And then I said goodbye to the actress from a distance, in very much the same way I had not exactly welcomed her to the neighborhood.

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Susan Josephs is a Los Angeles-based writer. She frequently writes about dance for the Los Angeles Times and is at work on a new play.

Hot, naked and pregnant

How a nude photo shoot at nine months changed the way I see my own body -- and my role as a "mommy"

(Credit: Loskutnikov via Shutterstock)

I’m standing in front of my house in a light rain, in the altogether, eight-and-a-half months pregnant, while a photographer snaps photos. I’m tucked into the hedge, hoping the neighbors don’t have a view from their windows. I’ve never been so happy to be naked.

A year earlier, I had tumbled into a mid-life crisis. I had one child who was nearly three, and my husband and I were planning for a second. This had always been our intention, and I approached this second foray without much anxiety. But when my younger sister called to tell me she and her boyfriend were going to London, something inside my head was knocked loose. “Damn,” I thought. “I’m going to be a MOMMY.”

Yes, I know what you’re thinking: You’ve been a mommy for three years. Get over it.

But it wasn’t the prospect of becoming a parent that freaked me out. I loved my little boy and wanted to add another goofball to the family. What threw me into a tizzy was the prospect of being a mommy and all the cultural baggage that came along with it. With one child, you could be that interesting woman with the cute kid who still retained a modicum of cool. But the second child would define you. This is faulty logic, I know, but I believed it nonetheless: A mommy is invisible. A mommy has bad jeans and a minivan. Twenty-five-year-old boys would never check me out. I would never take off to London on a whim.

Our culture certainly didn’t help these insecurities. “Mommy” is used to denigrate female parents. Professional women planning to have children are on the “Mommy track.” When we write about our experiences, we are “Mommy bloggers.” When we differ about parenting, we engage in “Mommy wars.” When we get into a little erotica, it becomes “Mommy porn.” Once identified as a “mommy,” we’re identified as little else.

No matter that I was never that cool or adventurous in the first place. I was the high school valedictorian, the Goody Two-Shoes. I’d had two boyfriends and married one of them. I always win “I’ve Never” because, really, I’ve never. But now I had no chance to be cool. Any possibility was off the table. I considered getting a tattoo or tarting up my wardrobe, but then I realized that doing these things to avoid being a mommy cliché was a cliché in and of itself.

Eventually, I realized I needed to get over myself. The demands of parenting a small child did not leave time to wallow, and at lucid moments I recognized that I would not have young kids forever. I would be able to go to London someday, and I didn’t have to drive a minivan. But my mommy fears still nagged.

A year later — pregnant as can be and irreversibly a mommy — I learned that a favorite local photographer was looking for models for a project on pregnant women. It was an appealing proposition, but there was a catch: She wanted nudes. I dismissed the idea; I couldn’t do a nude photo shoot. But I also realized I did not want to be the type of person who would say no to this.

This is how I found myself in my yard in the nude. I had spent an hour posing with my clothes on — the black bike shorts and black tank that had become my uniform in those sweltering final weeks. The photographer, Ellen, posed shots of me contemplating my belly on the back deck, family portraits in front of a nearby dilapidated barn, and shots of my boy and me frolicking in the neighboring cemetery. We chatted while she clicked away: about pregnancy, our kids, our town, and her work, and I tried not to think about where this was leading.

Eventually it started to rain and we ducked into the front yard, sheltered by a tall hedge. I ignored my misgivings, summoned a little confidence, and shed my clothes.

All along, I hadn’t been sure I could strip. I may not be the person so neurotic she changes in the bathroom at the gym, but I’m also not the woman who wanders around the locker room stark naked. I’ve often struggled with my weight, and I fight the urge to hide my body: too much belly, too much breast, flab and curves where I don’t want them.

But pregnancy gave me a freedom with my body that I didn’t have before and haven’t had since. At nearly nine months, my body was supposed to look like this. I was supposed to have an enormous belly, giant breasts, and a little something extra in the back. I could have done without the tree-trunk thighs, but I could live with those, too. Much to my surprise, revealing this body felt fine. So did the rain on my skin — it was awfully hot being pregnant in June.

Once Ellen began shooting, I adopted a strategy of “don’t look down.” It was best to ignore the absurdity of standing in our tiny front yard, separated from the sidewalk and street by only a hedge. As the shoot progressed, I felt an amazement that I could do this, that I was doing this. I can still see it in the small, pleased smile I’m wearing in the photos. It is equal parts relief, surprise and satisfaction.

Looking at the photos now, years later, I feel a bittersweet pang for those last few days when we were just three, before we became something new. I’m gobsmacked not only by the size of my belly and breasts but also by my nerve.

Later that day, after Ellen left and I had dressed, my husband observed, “Now you’ll never have to get a tattoo.” I’m grateful for that. And I’m grateful that the postman didn’t choose that moment to deliver the mail.

 

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Megan Rubiner Zinn lives in Western Massachusetts with her husband and two sons. Her work has appeared in Jezebel, the Daily Hampshire Gazette (Northampton, MA), VisualThesauraus, and her blog, life in the little city.

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